Clutch Bell Allen Screw Torque?
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: New Iberia,
LA
Posts: 535

Ok, finally caught the UPS man and got my Tornado BB. Mine shipped with the new clutch bell so I went ahead and changed it. My question is this. How tight do I put the allen screw that holds the clutch bell to the fly wheel. I put it pretty tight so it would not back off, but the clutch bell does not spin. Is this too tight? I am pretty sure it is, just want to make sure. I am new to RC, if I understand correctly this is an centrifugal clutch and should only engage as RPM's increase. So, how tight do I put the darn thing? Should I put some Lock Tight and just snug it up? Thanks for the help.
BTW, I am also curious about the clutch shoes themselves. Mine seem to be some kind of plastic. Is this stock or something new. I also ordered the Traxxas spring and will be installing that as soon as I am sure about the Clutch Bell Allen Screw torque.
Again, thanks for the help and expect many more questions in the near future.
BTW, I am also curious about the clutch shoes themselves. Mine seem to be some kind of plastic. Is this stock or something new. I also ordered the Traxxas spring and will be installing that as soon as I am sure about the Clutch Bell Allen Screw torque.
Again, thanks for the help and expect many more questions in the near future.
#2
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Euless,
TX
Posts: 3,096

Something is in the wrong place, you should be able to tighten your clutch bell screw all the way down tight and the clutch bell should still turn. You have to many washers or something. The clutch shoes and spring that are coming on the cars now is a good set up finally and last a good long time. The clutch shoes are nylon and it's stock now.
#3
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Location: Clermont, FL
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You should tighten it all the way down and use locktite but the clutchbell should spin free. You might have to add or take a way a washer. If it isnt tight, it will loosen up.
#4
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: New Iberia,
LA
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Thanks guys. I was hoping one or both of you would respond. I have been searching for the pictures with the washer order and just found them. I do have everything in the correct order, but as you have both said and the tutorial I just read says I probably need to move or remove one of the washer/spacers. Thanks for the quick reply. I am off to my LHS for nitro tomorrow and am more than ready to get this baby broken in (properly of course)

#5
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Euless,
TX
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No problem good luck.
#6

Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: howard beach, NY
Posts: 16,490

your not the first person who has had a problem with this upgraded clutch bell redcat is sending out with their cars. i dont remember what the solution was for the other person.
#7
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: New Iberia,
LA
Posts: 535

ORIGINAL: ehroof
your not the first person who has had a problem with this upgraded clutch bell redcat is sending out with their cars. i dont remember what the solution was for the other person.
your not the first person who has had a problem with this upgraded clutch bell redcat is sending out with their cars. i dont remember what the solution was for the other person.

#8
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: New Iberia,
LA
Posts: 535

Tried several spacer configurations and the replacement bell locks up as soon as I tighten the set screw the slightest. I did notice that the original bell seems a lot looser over the shoes than the replacement steel one. Maybe someone at Redcat should check the ID (inside diameter) and depth of the replacement bell. Just seems a little tight even before the screw is tightened. O well, back to the stock aluminum bell for now. Maybe I will look into the two piece replacement after break in.
#9
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: , AZ
Posts: 73

I too am a newbie, but after you replace the clutchbell with the newer one, you may not want to tighten it down all the way. Make sure there is a washer in front and in back ( one on each side! ) and put some loc-tite on the screw and tighten it down until you feel resistance, now back it off a half turn and you should be good.
#10
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Euless,
TX
Posts: 3,096

That leaves room for the screw to come out. The lock tight will not hold under heat, clermont found out that you can take locktighted screws out by heating them it loosens up the locktight, the clutch bell can potentialy get warm enough to make the locktight soft, letting the screw back out. Ehroof is right there was a guy that had this problem a while back and we all spent forever trying to figure it out and he finally figured out what the problem was. There's a thread somewhere about it.
The guy who had the same problem as you was Firebug80 I just searched all his posts and threads and there is nothing in them about how he fixed the problem. I don't think he ever posted what the problem was, I think he IMed me what he finally did to fix it. I know he called Redcat and talked to Dan I think.
The guy who had the same problem as you was Firebug80 I just searched all his posts and threads and there is nothing in them about how he fixed the problem. I don't think he ever posted what the problem was, I think he IMed me what he finally did to fix it. I know he called Redcat and talked to Dan I think.
#11
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Modesto,
CA
Posts: 3,965

Want a good laugh?
I ordered another Tsunami and they sent me an up grade bell [sm=lol.gif] 02107[&:]

#12
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: west reading, PA
Posts: 25

i had the same problem when i installed the steal clutch bell there was a part hanging up in the old one dont remember what it was but once it finally fel out it spun freely
#13
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: New Iberia,
LA
Posts: 535

Sorry for not updating this, but I did finally get my steel clutch bell installed properly. No spacers in back, and only one in front with the washer lock washer.
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