zack221

Anyone want to make some suggestions on getting this thing strong enough to handle jumps.

What do else do you think i would need to make my volcano stx raceready.When i say raceready i dont mean like pro just enough so that it wont break as soon as i hit a jump and other little goodies that might help me on the track.I finally found a offroad track and me and my cousin is going to go race.My cousin has a tmaxx 3.3 i know his is faster on topend but im sure i can outdrive him on a track because he hasnt really drove his it has been tore up since he got it.

Here are the mods i got right now.
1.aluminum c-hub
2.aluminum steering arm
3.6v receiver battery
4.savage 18t clutchbell (i was thinking maybe getting a 15t clutchbell so it will be quick but i haven't saw the course yet.)

nitrospeed33

you should get a new pipe and header, like these....

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSP45&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXBMH0&P=7

I have both and they work great, i like them alot. Also maybe new wheels and tires. and then it would be really cool if you got a wing, but thats just my thought, i think it would look cool,[sm=thumbs_up.gif]. then maybe some new shock towers like aluminum or carbon fiber. when i had my n-rusty, the first time i brought it to the track i broke the rear shock tower in less then 10 minutes, and that thing is lighter which means less stress on its so i think that some new shock towers would be good. so then you could have a pretty cool racing volcano, and i think that you could beat your cousins tmaxx, that would be really cool. but you could get like an extra 5 or so mph by just adding the pipe and header, and better accelaration. I dont know how serious you are about all the hop ups but thats what i would get. hope this helps

123michael

these tyres look cool http://www.storacingproducts.com/cgi...showprod_88731 will these fit hope so

zack221

those tires wouldnt work there to big and that pipe is just for looks it dont add any power it is the header that adds power.but i might need to order new shock towers just plastic ones for spares

rclynx

The stock chrome pipe you buy from RCR helps a little on top end but if your talking jumps and bashing then for get chrome pipes and just go for all the aluminum parts on the front suspension. The weakest part in the testing and wrecks with jumps and roll overs is the lower control arm pin bending with direct hits on the front wheels. With the plastic lower arm it seems to bend much easier. And if your good at fabricating you can set up a stabalizer bar to the lower front arms that helps a whole lot. The bumper is redundent because it sits back to far from the wheels but it is good to add weight onto as needed. If your serious about the jumps make sure the servo saver adjustment is backed way off because the OEM servo as I said before sucks. Don't cut any holes in the body other than to vent the engine. Holes in the windows for refueling weakens the body to where it colapses easier there for more damage on the rolls.
What works the best with my tests on those models
1. I use the black spring from the tsunami shocks on all 4 of the aluminum shocks (from the Volcano Pro) Thats the 11004 shock spring on the 08058 metal shock.
2. I use 08037 lower front arm
3. I use 08036 upper front arm
4. I use 02186 steering arms
You need other hardware for these also
5. I use 08046 shafts
and use a big spacer for the rear shock springs and your good to go for jumping at a starting point anyway

I could elaborate more but just let me say this. if you start with the pro model, for it to be a good jumper it will take about $300.00 to $500.00 and you have a top quality jumper other wise the first step up is the info I gave you.[:-]

Happy bashing and keep a good supply of parts on hand

123michael

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSP45&P=7

nitrospeed33

i disagree with the whole pipe thing. do you guys acctaully have that pipe? proly not right? well i do and i have the header and both of them together make a difference, its not just the header, and if you dont want a performance upgrade then dont get those, i was just thinkin that if you want raceready then your gonna want faster and quicker. but i think your wrong about the pipe. if you compare the stock one to the rmp i showed, its gotta a couple differences, such as the aluminum, whcich looks cool, its also a single chamber, and for sure it gives out more power.

ehroof

it does give you more power nitro, i have that pipe on a couple of my cars.

nitrospeed33

see, if ehroof says its got more power than its gotta be true.

wildwilly

get some ball bearings to replace the crappy brass bushings otherwise they just wear out the axles and the wheels start to wobble, plus it will ease up a lot of power.

ehroof

the redcats come with ball bearings, not sealed ones but they are ball bearings

zack221

well i guess i will take it to the track and see what breaks the easiest and replace those and get spares.i figured there would be someone on here that has raced before

ehroof

you would need a .12 engine for racing

zack221

around here they could care less about that it is mostly just a bunch of ppl playing around they aint bad on things like that

zack221

Hey ehroof do you know where i could get the o-ring that goes on the hsn.I went to my lhs and he didnt have them.Mine is bad and it is letting gas out the top of the hsn

ehroof

i may have some zack, i just dont know how big it is, i will take a look at mine and see if i have any.

ehroof

mine are different zack, i have the ones that you use on the shocks or where the dog bones go into the drive cups.

zack221

o well i dont know where i will get them maybe a hardware store would have them

ehroof

plumbing supply or maybe home depot might have something like that.

nitrospeed33

have you gotten any upgrades yet for racing?

zack221

no i havent ordered anything yet i think i am going to run it likes it is and fix what breaks

nitrospeed33

good idea

rclynx

O ring at an auto supply Zack, Like NAPA or one of the real auto supplys not Western auto or Kragans

bkfamily1

My Feedback: (1)

Ed, any guidance on removing the bearings from the hubs on a volcano? The smaller bearing could maybe be removed with a punch from the back side. But I do not see how to get the bigger bearing out. And I do not want to distort the hub in the process.

BTW, your posts and advice are very helpful. Thanks.

rc rock

isn't he a helpfull guy

if your going to race you will want a better radio system have a look here:[link=http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.php/cPath/1_61_119]http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.php/cPath/1_61_119[/link]