Steel Gear Diff..
06-26-2008, 03:06 PM
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Steel Gear Diff..
I just put mine on 2 tanks later starting to break the teeth off, i am un happy with the product! You would think that it costing 25$ and says steel it would last, i think it is cheapy made and has to much carbon in it, which makes it very brittal.. i don't think my setting are to tight. it runs smooth, but still breaking the teeth, i would loose up on it now but being that the teeth are broke it would prob do more damage.
06-26-2008, 03:22 PM
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RE: Steel Gear Diff..
Did you used the paper trick to set the gear mesh? If you did then the mesh is correct, even if the mesh is off a bit to tight or a bit to loose on a true hardened steel spur gear it still won't break the teeth off. Steel gears are easier to mesh than nylon because you don't have to be AS percise like with nylon if your off by even a tiny bit one way or the other it will ruin the gear pretty quick. I would gather to say they may need to STOP casting the spur gear and start machineing (uh, spell check, uh anybody, LOL) them.
06-26-2008, 03:26 PM
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RE: Steel Gear Diff..
after i notice the teeth breaking, i did do the paper trick it runs right through it with out cutting the paper!! Whats the link to the Paper trick? steel should bend not break!
06-26-2008, 03:28 PM
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RE: Steel Gear Diff..
and its sucks b\c i got the part today put it on and then the teeth break! thats 25 down the drain and another week or 2 before i get another one think god my lightning is coming tomorrow
06-26-2008, 03:34 PM
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RE: Steel Gear Diff..
Here's the scoop on steel spur gears, most of them are cast, machined then hardened. They can be brittle if they are not meshed properly, I've seen people bring me HPI savages with stripped steel spur gears. It's a give and take man, do you want to pay MORE for a mistake, like incorrect meshing or locking up a axle and stripping a spur gear or do you want to pay less for a mistake. If you change to the single gear transmission with the 13tooth clutch bell you"ll be FAR FAR getter off and stripp less gears and get goo performance.
Same goes for aluminum upgrade parts, do you want to bash or show it off? If you want to bash stick with nylon parts, an A-arm to replace it cost $35 every time you hit a tree or a curb you can't bend the aluminum back and if cracks it's garbage. Now if you want to show it off and your just kind of puttering around, like I do with my savage, then aluminum is a cool option, my truck will never see a serious hard core bash session I don't want to spend $50+ dollars on aluminum A-arms if I bend one.
My suggestion is do the paper trick every time on the spur gear no matter what, that way you know it's set properly from the start. That way you know if it was a bad product or if it was miss adjustment on the consumers part.
Same goes for aluminum upgrade parts, do you want to bash or show it off? If you want to bash stick with nylon parts, an A-arm to replace it cost $35 every time you hit a tree or a curb you can't bend the aluminum back and if cracks it's garbage. Now if you want to show it off and your just kind of puttering around, like I do with my savage, then aluminum is a cool option, my truck will never see a serious hard core bash session I don't want to spend $50+ dollars on aluminum A-arms if I bend one.
My suggestion is do the paper trick every time on the spur gear no matter what, that way you know it's set properly from the start. That way you know if it was a bad product or if it was miss adjustment on the consumers part.
06-27-2008, 01:00 AM
#10
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RE: Steel Gear Diff..
Well from looking at the picture you posted r/c justin, the gear mesh wasn't tight enough when you set it. I have included the picture you posted but with a yellow circle showing the lack of proper gear mesh. As the yellow circle highlights, the gear mesh isn't tight enough as the top land of the teeth on the clutch bell are no where close to the bottom land of the spur gear. As a result of not setting the gear mesh correctly, the spur gear teeth have been stripped. In fact the yellow circle highlights the arc path of the teeth of the clutch bell hitting the spur gear teeth at about half of the height of the spur gear teeth, hence the reason why the spur gear teeth are broke. Come this weekend when I get my lazy ass down to Best Buy and buy a new digital camera, I will take a snap shot of the same gear assembly ,with steel spur gear, on my Tsunami UW with a proper gear mesh so you get an idea of what you need to do next time.
06-27-2008, 08:53 AM
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RE: Steel Gear Diff..
Nice call, Megabash. I see what you're saying - the CB and spur are not properly meshed based on the area within your little circle. Either it was set right and the motor shifted, or it wasn't set right in the first place, but it's most certainly NOT set right now.
However, I'd say that this new steel gear might have some bugs to be worked out - I think it's been hardened too deeply. A gear like this only needs to be surface hardened, either by induction or by carburization. Maybe it needs to be tempered for toughness, but I'm sure the next batch will be better. They should chip, but they shouldn't break right off like this unless HEAVILY shocked or mistreated, not just by improper gear mesh.
However, I'd say that this new steel gear might have some bugs to be worked out - I think it's been hardened too deeply. A gear like this only needs to be surface hardened, either by induction or by carburization. Maybe it needs to be tempered for toughness, but I'm sure the next batch will be better. They should chip, but they shouldn't break right off like this unless HEAVILY shocked or mistreated, not just by improper gear mesh.
06-28-2008, 08:57 AM
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RE: Steel Gear Diff..
Looks like it ate a rock or something. Teeth look pretty good except for that one spot on top. Did you check the new gear to make sure its perfectly round? If it has a wobble it would lose the teeth real fast. Or it just ate a rock and youve got some bad luck.
06-28-2008, 02:30 PM
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RE: Steel Gear Diff..
dude when you mesh the gears it sould basically be smashed together and loosened a little bit. so there sould be a little bit of play in the gears, but your mesh looks like there is a lot of play, like the gears barely contacted each other.
07-08-2008, 10:00 PM
#18
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RE: Steel Gear Diff..
Ok here are some pictures I took of the proper gear mesh on a TUW with a 16t pinion gear mating to the steel spur gear of a Volcano gear reduction transmission. I have run half a gallon of fuel thru my TUW with this steel geared transmission installed.
07-09-2008, 08:28 PM
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RE: Steel Gear Diff..
Looks like the gear next to the spur gear is gettign ready to be trashed already, got nixks and dings in it pretty bad. I think they are making the wrong gear steel, they need to be making the gear for the single speed transmissions and maybe the 2 speeds steel. That transmission in the volcano is retartarded and over engineered there's no proper fix for that thing except to put a single gear transmission in it. The real fix is to scrap teh over engineered trans at the factory and MAKE them with single gear transmissions.
07-10-2008, 06:58 AM
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RE: Steel Gear Diff..
yea agree with me to about the steel its not worth the money!! hey all about fun!! on ur lightning the hpi gears and clutch bell i order from u did u have to re adjust ur motor? can't move my motor b\c of the screws are just way to tight i have done messed the screw heads up prob going to have to drill the heads off just to get my motor off..
07-10-2008, 10:49 PM
#22
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RE: Steel Gear Diff..
Ya that second gear in the transmission is showing some signs of damage. I have been doing some serious offroading with my TUW and I am thinking a gear cover from HPI might help protect that transmission. See what happens, but at least this transmission has a slipper clutch in it and helps to protect the rest of the drive train; that's what I bought it for mainly.
07-16-2008, 02:10 PM
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RE: Steel Gear Diff..
ORIGINAL: AllAboutFunHobbies
Here's the scoop on steel spur gears, most of them are cast, machined then hardened. They can be brittle if they are not meshed properly, I've seen people bring me HPI savages with stripped steel spur gears. It's a give and take man, do you want to pay MORE for a mistake, like incorrect meshing or locking up a axle and stripping a spur gear or do you want to pay less for a mistake. If you change to the single gear transmission with the 13tooth clutch bell you"ll be FAR FAR getter off and stripp less gears and get goo performance.
Same goes for aluminum upgrade parts, do you want to bash or show it off? If you want to bash stick with nylon parts, an A-arm to replace it cost $35 every time you hit a tree or a curb you can't bend the aluminum back and if cracks it's garbage. Now if you want to show it off and your just kind of puttering around, like I do with my savage, then aluminum is a cool option, my truck will never see a serious hard core bash session I don't want to spend $50+ dollars on aluminum A-arms if I bend one.
My suggestion is do the paper trick every time on the spur gear no matter what, that way you know it's set properly from the start. That way you know if it was a bad product or if it was miss adjustment on the consumers part.
Here's the scoop on steel spur gears, most of them are cast, machined then hardened. They can be brittle if they are not meshed properly, I've seen people bring me HPI savages with stripped steel spur gears. It's a give and take man, do you want to pay MORE for a mistake, like incorrect meshing or locking up a axle and stripping a spur gear or do you want to pay less for a mistake. If you change to the single gear transmission with the 13tooth clutch bell you"ll be FAR FAR getter off and stripp less gears and get goo performance.
Same goes for aluminum upgrade parts, do you want to bash or show it off? If you want to bash stick with nylon parts, an A-arm to replace it cost $35 every time you hit a tree or a curb you can't bend the aluminum back and if cracks it's garbage. Now if you want to show it off and your just kind of puttering around, like I do with my savage, then aluminum is a cool option, my truck will never see a serious hard core bash session I don't want to spend $50+ dollars on aluminum A-arms if I bend one.
My suggestion is do the paper trick every time on the spur gear no matter what, that way you know it's set properly from the start. That way you know if it was a bad product or if it was miss adjustment on the consumers part.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-8G0QcBFpU
07-16-2008, 03:50 PM
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RE: Steel Gear Diff..
not to bust your ba\\s but i think its fool proof. like a fool you know. im just saying something because i just realized it the other day haha.
08-03-2008, 12:27 AM
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RE: Steel Gear Diff..
If you look Closely at the Pictures of the Broken STEEL spur gear, you can see that it was CAST not Forged.
No way would a Hardened Forged gear Break like THAT....
What is the Point of buying something like That?
I agree with All About Fun.......
Go PLASTIC ,,,and learn to set it up Correctly.....
You will save a lot of Money (since the low grade STEEL Obviously doesnt work any better on THIS car than the Plastic does).
While I HAVE destroyed my share of plastic Spur gears, it has usually been in the Pursuit of BIG AIR or some other kind of Abuse.....
If you run these cars in a Civilized Fashion (with correct Set Up) the plastic spur gear will work just fine.
I currently have about 6 months time on Mine......
No way would a Hardened Forged gear Break like THAT....
What is the Point of buying something like That?
I agree with All About Fun.......
Go PLASTIC ,,,and learn to set it up Correctly.....
You will save a lot of Money (since the low grade STEEL Obviously doesnt work any better on THIS car than the Plastic does).
While I HAVE destroyed my share of plastic Spur gears, it has usually been in the Pursuit of BIG AIR or some other kind of Abuse.....
If you run these cars in a Civilized Fashion (with correct Set Up) the plastic spur gear will work just fine.
I currently have about 6 months time on Mine......