tylervalentine

This is my winter project:

As you can see i already have the c-hub style suspension but i would rather use PBS style. My rear wheels are both destroyed and are being held on by a penny that is super glued and painted (just so i have a rolling chassis).

what i want to do to it is PBS suspension, Two sets of front wheels for front and back (to clear body easily), SH. 18 engine with performance header and aluminum tuned exhaust pipe for better overall performance, 190mm body to better fit with the off-road wheels, convert it back to single speed (which im having to buy a new complete transmission because i've used every single allen wrench that i could find between me and my neighbors and cant find the right size to remove the grub screw to take it apart), and Futaba electronics.

every thing will be bought in this order: (1) PBS Buggy Suspension, Solid Buggy Wheels, and Single Speed Transmission - (2) SH. 18 Engine, Performance Header, and Aluminum Exhaust Pipe - (3) 190mm body and Futaba electronics.









Note: The fenders on the car are cut like that to allow the suspension to be compressed with out the body being ripped off.

jpilkinton

That's looking pretty sweet. I think I found a body for my truck.
Keep'em coming!

tylervalentine

I did a little test run to see how the suspension setup is working out and i believe the engine finally died on me.

jpilkinton

How so?
Will it not start? Even if you set the needles back to stock? Will it attempt to start?
I hate to hear that.

el_tonto

Even a 190mm body might be too wide and will require some major fender work. You could consider any of the 'truck' bodies from Proline or the like - they are usually about 170mm or so to allow big truck wheels outside the fenders. I've got a Traxxas Stampede body on a touring car which I converted to a buggy. I'll try remember to get a photos tonight. I think the truck body looks pretty good on a 'buggy' chassis.

tylervalentine

Did a little looking over the engine and found that the engine block has cracked, i have no clue how either. Striped the engine and zip-locked everything but the block just in case i need them in the future. Luckily i was planning on getting a new engine anyways. So HA! the jokes on the engine (I am extremely tired. Sounded funny as hell in my head.)

I know that even with a 190mm body the fenders will need some trimming. Personally i am more of a truggy guy myself so i have been recently debating going with a truggy body which isn't at all what i was going for but i also see it as a improvement in design due to clearance issues. I have also debated hub extensions but since i have never used them i have no clue how they work and if they at all damage the integrity of the vehicle. On the other hand going with a truggy body will pretty much make it a truggy with buggy wheels on a on-road chassis.

chevyderek72

why are you going with pbs. i personally dont care for it. ive heard a lot of things on one being better than the other, but its basically for racing. my first truck had c-hub, so now i only buy it if it has the same suspension, so i dont have to buy two sets of parts. but if i were you, i would save my money and buy other things, you really dont NEED pbs, but if you want it thats cool. im just saying that if it was me, i would rather get a new better engine, than a new suspension that will do the same thing for me, but might be a little better.

tylervalentine

Some friends and myself do a little racing on a abandoned airstrip on the edge of town. From my perspective on the two types of suspension setup i prefer using PBS, C-Hubs have always in my experience had to much play and effected cornering. PBS gives it a much smoother turn i believe. I have also for some reason never not been able to keep a C-Hub from breaking every other race. It seems that every time one of us contact each other it rips the hub from the hinge pin, with PBS on the other hand i have only encountered that once with a curb.

chevyderek72

ya i guess you have reason, i thought you were just switching over for no reason.

jpilkinton

Where is it cracked? Can you take a picture of it? I have never seen a cracked nitro block. This would be the first.

tylervalentine

If only you replied sooner, lol.

Everything in my house is packed up at the moment. I am moving to Oklahoma on wednesday.


The crack starts at the engine mount (on the block not the mount) and has as little sliver (not silver) crack about half an inch squiggling up the block itself. The only way i noticed it is when i pulled the engine inside where it quieter and while pulling the pull cord (i made last night out of sewing thread for heavy jackets. It took forever) the engine made a hissing sound, looking around it and then i noticed the crack.

I actually started laughing because i was so pissed (result of waking up to no ciggarettes).

el_tonto

My mutant. Tamiya TL-01 chassis, Duratrax rear and Redcat front arms, HPI Super-Nitro wheels + tires (pretty much identical in size to the Redcat buggy). Width is 150mm between inner wheel edges so the body width would be about 140-150mm, wheelbase would be pretty much standard touring car (257mm or so). Body required minor trimming of the rear-wheel arch to fit the wheel width, and quite a bit of trimming of the front to accomodate the steering.

Current shocks+wheels give it about 30mm ground clearance which looks a little higher than yours, and at the current ride height it has about 25mm of travel - that's the full travel available with my 70mm shocks, so the body doesn't interfere with that.

tylervalentine

I soon as i get to Oklahoma i will get some measurements of clearance and suspension travel.

but your truck looks awsome, it looks like a cross-country race truck (not a baja truck).

el_tonto

Thanks, yours is heading towards [link=http://www.ultimaterc.com/misc/j-spec/j-spec-gallery.php]this kind of look[/link] with the car bodies. I like the monster Vitara/Escudo at the bottom the best I think (all of these vehicles are 280-300mm size wheelbase, mostly with HPI's "super nitro" bodies which is 215mm wide so they are a bit larger than ours, but you can get a feel for how yours might look with whatever body you end up choosing)

tylervalentine

That is actually exactly what i was going for! Thanks for showing me that. Now im 50/50 on continuing in the direction that i was going.
some offset wheels like that would be extremely helpful on clearance issues.

el_tonto

The wheels in the above pic are Traxxas Electric Rustler/Stampede rims. The fronts and rears both have 12mm hexes, but have different offsets. The front rim offset is wider (clearly visible in the above pic). They can be dyed if you use the correct RIT dyes.

The traxxas cars have a narrower front than rear, hence the different offsets. It looks like yours are opposite (rear is narrower) so you'd just use the front rims on the rear, and the rear rims on the front (for a consistent width) or use front rims all round for max width.

Note that the Traxxas nitro front rims do NOT have 12mm hexes so don't get those. Otherwise the nitro rears are the same (just in chrome). So you can't use the chrome (nitro) front rims.

tylervalentine

My rear wheels are much wider than the front. My plan is to buy to new sets of Redcat buggy complete front wheels sets for front and rear. I might of not said that in which case my bad. Im going with the front wheels because they are narrower and will provide better clearance with 190mm body.

tylervalentine

This will be my last time on for about a week until i get everything unpacked at the new house. I will post updates on the car then.

jpilkinton

eeewwww! I don't think I can even go 10 hours without log'n in!

chevyderek72

Quote:

ORIGINAL: jpilkinton

Quote:

ORIGINAL: tylervalentine

This will be my last time on for about a week until i get everything unpacked at the new house. I will post updates on the car then.

eeewwww! I don't think I can even go 10 hours without log'n in!

ya haha there is going to be so many posts in a week.

tylervalentine

I am in Oklahoma now (third state within like seven months) lets hope this one sticks. Cable guy arrived much earlier than expect so i got the internet installed today.

jpilkinton

Welcome back!

tylervalentine

Thanks! get any farther in your project JP?

jpilkinton

Oh Yeah! Turns out, I bought a used Himoto 1/16 truck from AllAboutFunHobbies and low and behold, it had metal diff gears. I slapped the metal input shaft in the rear end. It should hold up pretty well now. I just got my body for the truck today. That is a BIG body for a 1/10 scale. I love it.

chevyderek72

you gotta get some more video of that