boostnm3

ok im having a problem with my volcano. i ran 5 tanks through it to break it in. well today when i tried to start it, it was very hard to start with the glow plug in, like it didnt want to pull. almost like it was locked up. i pulled the plug out and it pulled fine. i finally got it started. it would idle fine, but when i hit the gas, it would rev high and not come back down unless i applied the brakes. sometimes when i applied the brakes it would die. what could this be? im confused and new to this. from what ive read, could it be clutch spring, or the 14mm nut on the gear needs tightening. im not sure, can someone help

RedcatRacing

It does not sound like a clutch spring but more of a tuning issues.

Click the following link for some help.

http://shopping.netsuite.com/c.84985...ourengine.html

Darin

boostnm3

alright ill check it out, i mean the first 5 tanks it was running great. now when i try to throttle it, it will idle high with the wheels off the ground. with it on the ground it wont go, just revs the motor and barely moves. could that be clutch

IMPATIENT 1

watch the crank bell and see if it increases in rotation with the motor rpms, if it doesn't, pull the motor and check the clutch. something should show itself. redcat p# on the clutch kit is 02048, comes with the shoes and spring. i bought 2 spare clutch kits to have on hand

rclynx

No stripped spur gear[sm=confused.gif]

boostnm3

no the spur gear is fine, i checked that. it will want to move but just revs up more and doesnt move much. then if i hit the brakes it dies

AllAboutFunHobbies

Check your clutch shoes. Also is the spur gear spining? if it is make sure all the gears in teh trans are spining, if they are check the drive cups to make sure the lock screws didn't back out alittle and the drive cups are spinning on the shafts.

boostnm3

ok now i dont really know what is going on with this thing. i started it today, and it still wants to die when i hit the brakes. not only that but now the truck is spitting gas out like crazy. i let the car idle sitting on the tool box and it had a puddle of fuel right below the exhaust that was probably 3 inches wide by 3 inches long. i have tried both the factory settings as well as adusting the high speed needle lean and it was still drinking the gas. im about fed up with it. only ran 6 tanks through it so far and didnt even get to drive it yet since i was breaking it in. this this is starting to be a headache. not sure what the return policy is but im thinking im stuck with it now.

boostnm3

oh and i checked all that. the spur is spinning, all the gears in the trans are spinning. the drive cups are spinning with the shafts. i put loctite on those when i got it. the only thing i havent checked is the clutch which i am going to do

boostnm3

ok i pulled the motor out and checked the clutch and spring. The spring didnt break, but im not sure how you tell if it has stretched. doesnt look stretched but who knows. during break in i didnt really drive the car so im not sure how the spring would stretch already. i maybe drove the car a total of 5-10 min total.

jpilkinton

OK, first you need to get it running, and adjust your idle with the brake engaged. Then it sounds like your running WAY too rich. Sometimes the factory settings are too rich. You need to lean the engine quite a bit from the sounds of it. Start leaning the engine out and keep checking the temp. Don't get it too hot.
You will probably have to re-adjust the idle again.
I have read the idle method to break in a nitro engine does no good. You have to actually drive the car around.

jpilkinton

If the spring has stretched, the clutch would be engaged at very low rpm's or engaged all the time. I would tune the engine properly first.
YouTube is a very good resource for tuning nitro engines.

boostnm3

the first 5 tanks the engine was running great. dont know what happened. the temps outside are the same and i didnt touch anything. today when i ran it i had teh hsn set out probably 5 turns so i know thats not rich or is it. it was almost flush with the edge

Brett185

My Feedback: (2)

5 turns out for the hsn is way too rich, your lsn needs to be flush with the collar. Sounds like to me you have your idle screw way too far out too. When you apply the brakes your throttle arm is closing the carb all the way and choking out the engine. Try setting the hsn to 2 1/2 - 3 turns out. Lsn to flush with the collar. Remove your air filter and look at the carb opening with the brakes fully applied. Screw your idle screw in till you see about a 1mm gap. Also if you haven't changed glow plugs since breakin you definetly need to do so. Get several extras, your gonna need them. If your spitting gas out of the exhaust your way too rich. When you remove the glow plug, turn the car upside down and pull the pull start and remove all the excess gas that's probbably built up in you engine. If adjusting the idle screw doesn't fix the idle problem, it might be the sevo arm needs to be readjusted.

Brett185

My Feedback: (2)

P.S. I forgot to mention on my last post. It helps to turn the throttle trim adjustment on your transmitter all the way down when adjusting the idle. I was having idle problems with my truck too till one of the guys at my lhs told me to turn the trim all the way down when adjusting the idle screw. It took less than 5 min. to fix it after that.

boostnm3

ok if 5 turns out would be way to rich, wouldnt 2 1/2-3 be even richer then? I thought you start at the bottom of the hsn set screw and come out for it to lean. my hsn was almost flush at the top. am i confused here. so me turning it to what you said would just make it even more rich if i started at the bottom. 5 turns out is more on the lean side than 3 or am i backwards here. My low speed needle is flush and i adjusted my idle last night. i also went and picked up a traxxas 4146x spring since the stock ones are weak. i know the factory wheels are weak also. i already had to replace those and didnt even jump it. just turned and the center of the wheel broke.

Brett185

My Feedback: (2)

Yeah, your backwards on your needle settings. Turn it clockwise to lean, and counter clockwise to richen. The further in it is, the leaner it is. The further out, the richer. Don't get frustrated man, we've all been there before. Your not the first to have these kinds of problems, and you sure won't be the last. You've got to have patience. With a new motor your gonna have a few problems. You'll get it. The reason it's dying when you give it gas is because your flooding the crap out of your engine, and the fuel is splashing up on the glow plug. Try to clean as much fuel out of the engine and exhaust as you can. Get some canned air and try to blow as much of it out of your exhaust pipe as you can. Be careful if you blow into your engine and carb and don't get any debris in there. Set the needles like I said above. Turn the throttle trim all the way down on your transmitter, make sure you have about a 1mm gap on your carb with the switch on ( not the engine ). Now you'll be back to close to factory settings. Your gonna have to start from scratch like you just took it out of the box ( except for the 5 tank break in ). Now your ready to start the engine and tune. Start it with the wheels off the ground. If it gives you any trouble starting, use the hair dryer trick to warm it up first, and be sure the wheels are NOT on the ground when you first start it. Also you can turn the throttle trim up a hair at a time to allow fuel to get into the carb while pull starting it. These steps should get you going, if not let us know......

Brett185

My Feedback: (2)

Oh, and change your glow plug before you try any of this. Go ahead and pick up a few to have on hand. I've found that the O.S. A3 and the O.S. #8 has been really good plugs for me. But you need to go ahead and throw your old one away and start with fresh one.

boostnm3

ok ill give it a try. i thought the higher up the hsn came , the leaner the engine would run. ive already changed the glow plug. i bought a few os3's. i will give it a try toight and let you know how it does. Thanks for all the help

boostnm3

ok im pissed now. im such a dumb***. i tried to put the traxxas clutch spring on and completly ruined the spring. its stretched out now. i mean its still tight once i got it in. but the spring is mangled when taken out. i guess i need to go buy another 1. man this hobby is adding up......

Brett185

My Feedback: (2)

What's wrong with your original one. I don't think it had anything to do with your engine problems. Try putting your original one back on.

boostnm3

ok now i have 1 more question? when you put the clutch shoes back, does the spring side go towards the flywheel or towards the clutch bell? also redcat dont have a good manual. in the manual that came with the truck, it has the hsn and lsn backwards. they say the lsn is the tall 1 next to the air filter. that can confuse people for sure.

Brett185

My Feedback: (2)

It's been so long since I've had to pull the clutch on mine so I can't tell u which way the shoes go back on. Yeah your right about the hsn and lsn. The tall one with the gold collar by the air filter is the hsn. and the one on the throttle arm with the rubber boot on it is the lsn. Be careful when adjusting the lsn. It is very sensitive. Only make adjustments 1/16 or 1/32 at a time. It's what needs to be flush with the collar for the factory setting. Go back through some of these threads and I know you'll find a write up on the clutch. Everything you want to know is in here. You'll just have to take the time and look. It's in here. You can also look at the tsunami thread. The engines are exactly the same. I know there's something on the clutch in there, I've read it.

boostnm3

ive looked all over and cant find any information on how the clutch goes back. ive seen some threads here but nothing that says how the clutch shoes go back.

deadeye25

Here is some links i found really useful in finding more about how RC cars work maybe it will help you too:

[link=http://forums.thetoyz.com/]http://forums.thetoyz.com/[/link] -Lots of useful guides about RC, check the nitro engines and the RC FAQ, Tips, and Tricks! it may be not about redcat cars but it explains pretty much anything you may ask yourself i found it very useful (For some reason you need to create an account to access the engine section)

[link=http://www.nitrorc.com/]http://www.nitrorc.com/[/link] - another useful site it goes a little in more detail about how the carburetor and the engine works it is pretty well explained and provides some useful pictures to figure out how the engine works. Check Carburetors 101 and the others also has a topic about the clutch

[link=http://www.*********.org/cars_troubleshooting.htm]http://www.*********.org/cars_troubleshooting.htm[/link] - another site i found useful talks more about the engine, fuel...

[link=http://www.rc-truckncar-tuning.com/Glow-plug-reading.html]http://www.rc-truckncar-tuning.com/Glow-plug-reading.html[/link] - how to read your glow plug to figure out if you're running to rich or lean

Hope this helps, have fun!