Landlside ate the 43T GEAR
#26
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RE: Landlside ate the 43T GEAR
hey guys whats up? (UPDATE ON MY LANDSLIDE) Well I just recieved the upgraded dogbones,2 front-2rear diff cups to front universal drive shafts and was supposed to get some new fuel line but was sent 4 hex head screws???hmm. Well I just took the front diff apart and just my luck I did it for nothing. Come to find out they diff gear and cup are one piece unless im missing something. Im getting frusterated now,haha. Do I need to just buy the whole diff.? UPDATE ON SPUR GEAR-I called redcat today and was told that the spur gear would be available in an hour online,haha yeah ok guess what it wasnt by the time an hour went by they were already closed so, I got one from a local hobbie shop that fit except it has 54t, I set the mesh and feels like it may be right I hope. Well if anyone has any answers for me,I would appriciate it. looks like im out of commision AGAIN this weekend. Have to wait again till monday to call Redcat. If its not one thing it's another.
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RE: Landlside ate the 43T GEAR
well got everything on the truck,just to remind you im new at all this. I noticed when I try to roll the truuck backwards it like the break is on. Shouldn't it roll freely? this only happens when the truck is on the ground,if I pick it up the wheels roll backwards freely. Who knows....getting ready to just trash this thing after only having it for a little over a week.
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RE: Landlside ate the 43T GEAR
ORIGINAL: joey951
well got everything on the truck,just to remind you im new at all this. I noticed when I try to roll the truuck backwards it like the break is on. Shouldn't it roll freely? this only happens when the truck is on the ground,if I pick it up the wheels roll backwards freely. Who knows....getting ready to just trash this thing after only having it for a little over a week.
well got everything on the truck,just to remind you im new at all this. I noticed when I try to roll the truuck backwards it like the break is on. Shouldn't it roll freely? this only happens when the truck is on the ground,if I pick it up the wheels roll backwards freely. Who knows....getting ready to just trash this thing after only having it for a little over a week.
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RE: Landlside ate the 43T GEAR
when your wheels spin off the ground do the spin opposited of each other if so then amf66 is right and it's probably just your breaks sticking
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RE: Landlside ate the 43T GEAR
i ate my spur gear also..i didnt have a failsafe and when the car took off it smashed hard into a fence..when i picked it up the gear was ate up and the rear dog bone was bent..i figured the dogbone bent first because it was getting stuck against the brace and would not turn past that point. but why would a front end crash cause the rear dogbone to bend?
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RE: Landlside ate the 43T GEAR
what caused the rear dogbone to bend was that at some point there was too much torque being applied while there was too much resistance on the rear wheels and it bent
edit: no failsafe and car running out of control = torque applied
fence = too much resistance
edit: no failsafe and car running out of control = torque applied
fence = too much resistance
#33
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RE: Landlside ate the 43T GEAR
I agree with perhamrocks....and the reason ur spur gear got ate up is chassis flex....chassis flex=improper mesh which in turn means ate up spur gear
#34
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RE: Landlside ate the 43T GEAR
ORIGINAL: jpilkinton
Joey,
Did you check the gear mesh before you started the break-in process? I always check my gear mesh when I get a new rc.
All of my rc's have metal clutch bells and plastic spur gears and never stripped one out to this day.
With metal to metal gears, you stand a chance of them BOTH stripping the teeth off because there is no lubrication on them. Metal to metal gears has to have some kind of lubrication. And with these spurs out in the open, you can't have lubrication on them or that would also cause them to wear out from the debris since debris sticks to oil, grease, ect....
Joey,
Did you check the gear mesh before you started the break-in process? I always check my gear mesh when I get a new rc.
All of my rc's have metal clutch bells and plastic spur gears and never stripped one out to this day.
With metal to metal gears, you stand a chance of them BOTH stripping the teeth off because there is no lubrication on them. Metal to metal gears has to have some kind of lubrication. And with these spurs out in the open, you can't have lubrication on them or that would also cause them to wear out from the debris since debris sticks to oil, grease, ect....
not sure what you mean by metal to metal gears have to have luberication....my 1/8th buggies all have metal clutchbell and main gear....dont have to be lubricated...also they are not near as finaky to proper mesh as the 1/10th gears...I've left 3 out of the 4 engine mount screws on the pavement on my first buggy and the same clutchbell and main gear are still on it...and I've ran a few gallons of fuel through it since then
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RE: Landlside ate the 43T GEAR
ORIGINAL: cadillac98
i ate my spur gear also..i didnt have a failsafe and when the car took off it smashed hard into a fence..when i picked it up the gear was ate up and the rear dog bone was bent..i figured the dogbone bent first because it was getting stuck against the brace and would not turn past that point. but why would a front end crash cause the rear dogbone to bend?
i ate my spur gear also..i didnt have a failsafe and when the car took off it smashed hard into a fence..when i picked it up the gear was ate up and the rear dog bone was bent..i figured the dogbone bent first because it was getting stuck against the brace and would not turn past that point. but why would a front end crash cause the rear dogbone to bend?
Sorry, that is all materials science talk.
What I mean is the front half of the RC is now stopped from the crash. Thus the front stuff break, bend, crumple, and bend.
When the front half of teh RC stops and has done all of its warping and bending, the rear half of the rC is still moving from the momentum. It is still pushing forward on the font half of teh RC that is now completly stopped. Think of the crash in very slow motion. What you will see is an accordian or slinky-like effect. The front of teh RC will start to compress, crmple, warp first, then that warping and crumpling continues backwards. The back of the RC is the last to finish its crumpling.
Watch these vids of full sized cars creashing and look at teh slinky effect on teh cars
ttp://video.google.com/videosearch?q=Smart+Car+Crash+Test+1+&emb=0&aq=-1&oq=#
Look at the vid titled: "Smart Car Crash Test 1"
Look at the green car and you will see that it began warping and crumpling in teh front first, the middle 2nd, and the back last.
This is the veery same reason why your read dogbone underwent Euler buckling as well.
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RE: Landlside ate the 43T GEAR
Also, let me mention, the spur stripping happened after teh dogbones were bent. The bent dogbones become very hard to turn at a certain duration or arc of one revolution, thus, the plastic teeth give way from teh engines torque.
In the case of your massive crash, the dogbones first bent from the impact, then, the still turning engine tried to continue to tur those bent dogbones which simply do not want to turn at a certain arc, and thus the stripped plastic spur.
In the case of your massive crash, the dogbones first bent from the impact, then, the still turning engine tried to continue to tur those bent dogbones which simply do not want to turn at a certain arc, and thus the stripped plastic spur.
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RE: Landlside ate the 43T GEAR
ORIGINAL: firebird78
not sure what you mean by metal to metal gears have to have luberication....my 1/8th buggies all have metal clutchbell and main gear....dont have to be lubricated...also they are not near as finaky to proper mesh as the 1/10th gears...I've left 3 out of the 4 engine mount screws on the pavement on my first buggy and the same clutchbell and main gear are still on it...and I've ran a few gallons of fuel through it since then
ORIGINAL: jpilkinton
Joey,
Did you check the gear mesh before you started the break-in process? I always check my gear mesh when I get a new rc.
All of my rc's have metal clutch bells and plastic spur gears and never stripped one out to this day.
With metal to metal gears, you stand a chance of them BOTH stripping the teeth off because there is no lubrication on them. Metal to metal gears has to have some kind of lubrication. And with these spurs out in the open, you can't have lubrication on them or that would also cause them to wear out from the debris since debris sticks to oil, grease, ect....
Joey,
Did you check the gear mesh before you started the break-in process? I always check my gear mesh when I get a new rc.
All of my rc's have metal clutch bells and plastic spur gears and never stripped one out to this day.
With metal to metal gears, you stand a chance of them BOTH stripping the teeth off because there is no lubrication on them. Metal to metal gears has to have some kind of lubrication. And with these spurs out in the open, you can't have lubrication on them or that would also cause them to wear out from the debris since debris sticks to oil, grease, ect....
not sure what you mean by metal to metal gears have to have luberication....my 1/8th buggies all have metal clutchbell and main gear....dont have to be lubricated...also they are not near as finaky to proper mesh as the 1/10th gears...I've left 3 out of the 4 engine mount screws on the pavement on my first buggy and the same clutchbell and main gear are still on it...and I've ran a few gallons of fuel through it since then
In the 1:1 world they must have some kind of lubrication, for them to last. Once one starts to fail, the other gear is soon to follow. Which is totaly the opposite of metal to plastic gears. Plastic will always go first. I see what your saying as far as only having one engine mount screw in and still running. Metal gears can handle that. Plastic ones would be ripped to shreds if they lost their mesh or any other drivetrain problems. There is a "dry" lubricate(graphite based) that is better than the 'so-called' liquid. And it isn't a dirt magnet like liquids.
Now I am not saying they have to be constantly lubed at all times(in our RC's that is).
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RE: Landlside ate the 43T GEAR
ORIGINAL: SAVAGEJIM
It would be the inertia of the forward part of the RC which is now stopped form teh massive deceleration and the momenta of the rear parts of the RC which is still moving until the compressive elasticity of the entire RC reaches a point in the stress curve such that the parts in between cannot compress anymore elastically and thus enter their plastic phases and again, Euler buckling kicks into effect.
It would be the inertia of the forward part of the RC which is now stopped form teh massive deceleration and the momenta of the rear parts of the RC which is still moving until the compressive elasticity of the entire RC reaches a point in the stress curve such that the parts in between cannot compress anymore elastically and thus enter their plastic phases and again, Euler buckling kicks into effect.