kjord97

Few weeks ago, sitting in neutral pressed forward and nothing. found the 43T part # 62008 to be chewed to nothing. never really understand placing a metal gear against a plastic gear. anyways, anyone know where to order one. Redcat has been sold out for 2 weeks and RU Racing canceled me order today since they are sold out.

kjord97

so I take it no one can direct me on a place to buy this part!!!!

amf66

Here you go: [link]http://www.rufaster.com/62008.aspx[/link] [8D]

kjord97

Sorry sold out, if you notice in my orignal post, it says RUFASTER canceled my order and refunded my money, they are sold out and dont have a date of when they will be back in stock. Amazing how even RedCat cant even give me a date when they will have them in stock again. Seems like i wasted my money, i was on my first tank of gas doing the break in, have not even driven the car yet.

jpilkinton

Hey!
Does the landslide use a slipper spur gear? Please upload pic of the spur gear installed with engine out(so i can get a better view).
I found a 43 tooth spur gear that I use on my Himoto MXT-2S and my spur is a slipper type. I couldn't find a manual for the Landslide to compare parts.

jpilkinton

I just found some pics of the Landslide tranny and it does use a slipper spur. Just like my Himoto. And it looks identicle, and have the same amount of teeth.
Let me find a pic of my MXT-2S tranny so we can compare trannies.
The first two pictures are my MXT-2S from Himoto and the last picture is the Redcat Landslide . I bet it will work!
And I found one for like $12. The Himot part # is: HI904-012
OK... Here they are:
After looking deeply at the pics, the MXT-2S's slipper discs look larger than the Redcat's Landslide.
Can you buy a complete tranny for the Landslide? That should have the spur gear installed...
Yep, your best bet(since they have them in stock) is to buy a complete center diff, part# 62005. It has the spur gear installed. Plus you will have a spare center diff. You would probably spend at least $20(with shipping) on just the spur gear. Contact Wade at AllAboutFunHobbies and see if he can get a better price. He always got better prices on redcat stuff for me. Even if he saved me $.01, I would still order from him. He is a super nice guy.

joey951

My Feedback: (1)

Here's a recent email I sent Redcat. Read it and if anyone has had the same problem please feel free to contact me. I had many problems after I ran just one tank of gas and now my Landslide is out of comission for who knows how long on used it for about 30 mins. After I sent the email I also noticed the 43t gear chewed up one of my gas lines now has a small hole in it.

My E-mail to redcat-

Hello, My name is Manuel J Pinedo. I'm writing in concern of one of the products you sale called the Landslide. My fiance purchased the Landslide for me as a christmas present. When I opened it I was very surprised and satisfied with what I seen. I couldn't wait to get my new R/C on the road. I was able to get my R/C going to start the break in process on the 25th of December for a moment at least, I noticed a clanking noise at first then noticed my steering had went as well, when I approached the truck I noticed a screw missing off the steering linkage and the dog bone off the right side rear tire popped off. I was very upset that I hadn't even been thru a full tank of gas yet and the truck was already falling apart. I took the truck inside to inspect the damage and reinstall the rear dog bone I noticed the 43t gear (part# # 62008) was chewed up. I reinstalled the dog bone and to the truck out for another test drive only to have the dog bone fall from the car again,also realizing the dog bone was bent. On December 26th I tried straightening the dog bone on a press(my dad is a machinist)and reinstalled it once again. I ran the truck for about 15 minutes(first tank of gas finished)and noticed the dog bone missing this time. My nephew found it down the street. I gassed it up once more and fired it up but it didn't move when I gave it gas. This is when I noticed the gear just above the engine clutch bell crewed up also missing teeth from it. That's not it the two front dog bones now are also bent the front and rear driveshaft's are severely bent as well. I'm very disappointed with this product. I haven't even broken in the engine yet and the car is falling apart after only 30 minutes of run time. What kind of products is this business selling. I would not recommend Redcat products to anyone. Now my question to Redcat is is there a warranty offered? The plastic gear that got chewed up,yeah I can replace it but the metal gear from the differential verses the plastic gear that got chewed up will never hold up,it will always result to the same thing every time. Do you offer an aluminum gear of some kind? I attached pictures of the damage that was done. I will be contacting Redcat as soon as possible

here's a link to a small video I took, you'll hear the gear grinding and see the one of 4 drive shafts that bent.[link=http://s46.photobucket.com/albums/f149/951fireboy/?action=view&current=MOV00127-1.flv]landslide Gear failure[/link]

jpilkinton

Joey,
Did you check the gear mesh before you started the break-in process? I always check my gear mesh when I get a new rc.
All of my rc's have metal clutch bells and plastic spur gears and never stripped one out to this day.
With metal to metal gears, you stand a chance of them BOTH stripping the teeth off because there is no lubrication on them. Metal to metal gears has to have some kind of lubrication. And with these spurs out in the open, you can't have lubrication on them or that would also cause them to wear out from the debris since debris sticks to oil, grease, ect....

kjord97

Joey,

Your email sounds just like my first experience with the landslide. The truck is actually not mine, my buddy got it from his wife for christmas, he was so excited he came buy my house for guideance on how to use it. I have been in RC for years. He was wanting to get in it. We went throught the steps of tighting and checking the spur gear. First tank of gas, the steering quit and noticed the steering linkage laying on the ground. Also when we hit the gas, none of the tires rotated, we had it on a stand, we pinched the gas line, stopped the engine and then noticed plastic pieces everywhere. the Spur gear was chewed up.

Jp,
Thanx for the info and the find, I am going to go ahead and order a new center diff set, $39.99 is killer though on a truck that has never moved.

jpilkinton

No problem. Before you order the center diff, call Nick and see if he can get you a better price on it since your truck is new.

joey951

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks guys for the info it was very helpful. One more thing cause I am new to this,how do you check the mesh on the spur gear? I contacted Redcat today about my problem and was told the exact thing on the gear,that it was probably loose. I know they are getting some gears in on wed. this week so I will be happy to get it installed and get back to the break in. redcat was awsome when I told them of my problen and stuck to their warrenty not only that hooked me up with the drive shaft upgrade kit. I had a change of mind on recomending Redcat and will highly recommend them. My nephews B-day is coming up,he'll be 10 any suggestions on a car/truck that redcat offers for a 10yr old?
?

cummins driver

My Feedback: (31)

When you set the mesh on the gear, get a regular piece of notebook paper. A small strip is all you need. Loosen all 4 motor mount bolts, and then put the paper right in between the clutch bell(gear on motor), and the spur gear(on transmission). Leaving the paper between the gears, snug the motor over enough so that the gears are snugged tight and so that the paper is pinched between the gears. Make sure the motor is still straight so that the mesh is consistant all the way across on both gears. Then tighten up the motor mount bolts making sure not to move the motor. Pull the paper out by rotating the gears, and they should have a perfect mesh. The paper should have left just enough room so that there is no binding, but also not enough room so that they can slip and strip out again.

BroMaxx

I Used to think that if the gear mesh was perfect then I would never strip one. But it still happens... stones, over revving (heats up the plastic), chassis flex, sometimes just bad parts can do it. It sucks when it does strip but hey at least you dont blow a tranny too often.

SAVAGEJIM

In the vid, it is very clear that mesh is not the cause of teh stripping. It is caused by the gears binding that caused the front dogbone to bend.

SAVAGEJIM

Yep, definitely call RedCat to see if they can warranty your rC.

Regardless of what everyone says, it is not mesh that stripped your spur gear. What it is is the gears binding (that loud clanking noise). So, even if you have a 100% perfect mesh, you will strip your gears and that forward center dogbone will always buckle.

This is clearly a fault of fit, either by a mess-up in design or an improper assembly at the factory. Redcat will fix it for you, they are really good in trying to regain your trust and loyalty.

jpilkinton

I'm glad everything went ok for ya.

jpilkinton

First, that clanking noise you hear is from the spur gear(with no teeth) riding on the clutchbell. That was clear as day.

Second, the only way a gear will bind up is if the mesh is too tight OR if the shaft(in which the gear is fastened to) is bent.
In which case would cause you to have too much mesh, the right amount of mesh and not enough mesh in one revolution of the gear.
And you stand a better chance of stripping the tips of the teeth off on the "not enough mesh" section of the gear and then start a chain reaction of stripping the whole gear.

jpilkinton

That is so untrue. I have read everywhere that people stripped their spur gears and not one person said anything about bending the front center dogbone. How does a stripped spur gear bend a dogbone anyways? That is so bogus.
The way I look at it, you would have to hit something(in the front) to bend the dogbone.
If you can convince me otherwise, please do. I'm all ears...

amf66

But if something is binding in the drive train it would put more stress on the spur gear because it would be harder to turn. That might also cause it to strip.

jpilkinton

Now that I can see happening. But bending a centerline dogbone like in the video?

amf66

That noise sounds like you have a drive train problem. I stripped a diff on my HPI Rush and I heard a clanking noise just like that. The diffs might not be shimmed right or something else might be binding. Have you called Redcat yet?

SAVAGEJIM

Absolutely not, there is nothing bogus at all in what I am saying.

Let me first say, you are absolutely correct, the moment on the dogbone will not cause it to buckle.
A plastic spur CANNOT bend a steel dogbone, ever. For a plastic spur to do this, it must be made of steel and not only that, present an axial force don the dogbone, NEVER a moment. So, again, it is NOT the spur that caused the buckling. If the dogbone failed by a moment, it would be twisted; furthermore, it will not have buckled as moments do not place ant axal loading whatsoever.

The cause of the buckling is in the font part of teh RC. You have the right idea in understanding the front took a blow, thus Euler buckling will occur once it surpasses the mechanical strength of the dogbone in an axial loading.

But anther way of causing Euler buckling can occur is of the front diff failed and siezed up in the front diff housing. Pieces of teh outer bevel could have stripped teeth, and worse, the bevel could have fragged and the pieces are now lodged in such a manner that the diff cannot turn in teh diff housing anymore. As the dogbone turns and attempts to turn the now siezed and lodged diff, whatever existing teethe that have not stripped aer now presenting forces that the diff is tring to be squeezed out of teh diff housing, like a wet water mellon seed being pressed between you forefinger and your thumb. In this case, the diff's easiest path to be squeezed out of the housing is backwards towards the back of teh RC, thus loading teh dogbone behind it axially.

SAVAGEJIM

Also, back to teh mention of fit and design. If the dogbone is right up against the ends of the cup, which is what is happening here, and again, speaking about binding in the diff housing, if the diff housing and diff are not fitting properly or there simply is not enough material on the diff housing to prevent flexure, the diff housing will flex like crazy under load. And the diff inside teh housing will go forwards, backward, up down and so forth. An when the diff is going back, of course, when you gas it at full trigger, the power of teh engine will make that diff come back hard on the dogbone (as well as go forward, up, down,, and wherever there is the least resistance for that diff to go).

Also, it is IMPOSSIBLE for the stripped plastic gear to make such a racket. If the spur us wobbling, say from the shaft it is mounted on is bent, the noise would be a plastic on metal rubbing noise, not that massive crunching.
The noise is coming form teh front of teh RC, NOT the spur (now stripped), nor the CB.

In teh end, his front end (diff, the bevel gears, and or pinion) are toast.

jpilkinton

OK, I see what your saying. The way it sounded to me was farther back from the front diff. The reason I disagreed was I had a stripped spur gear from a used tremor and it sounded just like it did in the video. But there was nothing wrong with the front or rear diff's. Also that was my thought about the dogbone too, that it would be twisted(from the drag of the diff and the torque of the engine.
Or shear the little pins on the end of the dogbones.
I must have misunderstood your saying about the stripped spur causing the bent dogbone. If the dogbone was bent which in returns strips the spur, I can see that too.
It's all good buddy.
Is that the reason Redcat had replacement upgrade parts made to fix these problems?

SAVAGEJIM

Probably so, but regardless, they are really cool for doing so. Afterall, Redcat has steadily built up a good customer service reputation, and their actions in doing so is definitely a good thing.

Many RCs on teh market today are designed to only take the stresses of teh stock RTR engines that come on them. But many RC fans are always upgrading their engines (like going with an SH over the VX engines) and it only makes sense to have upgrade parts to take the power these engines will put on the drive train.