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The Ulitimate Newb

Old 03-24-2009, 09:11 AM
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Doctp1885
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Default The Ulitimate Newb

Hello all,

The title says it all...I would have to say I'm the ultimate newb when it comes to Nitro RC "ANYTHING." So I have Zero experience. I basically picked up this hobby for my son and me. He's only 4, but loves trucks and anything fast. Figured summer is approaching fast and what better way to hit the parks and dirt and spend some father and son time. Now when I say I'm new is an understatement. Last time I even came close to holding a RC was 30 years ago. I also have OCD when it comes to researching which can be a good thing and that's how I found this site . I decided to buy a beginner hobbyist nitro RC truck (Volcano SV). Needless to say, it's been one hell of a ride to get the truck to start and tuned. I'd say I put in a good 8-10hrs so far but I still need a lot of assistance on this. Here are some questions I hope you guys can answer.

1. Finally got the carburator and trim to 1mm. Still noticed the engine after 1-2min of running will quit when idling. This is telling me that I still need to open the idle just a hair or do I need to Rich/Lean the Low Needle?

2. When accelerating, I noticed when full throttle the car would look like it Bogged down. Once I let up the throttle it would be ok. Is this because it's too lean and I need to richen up a little?

3. Braking. I adjusted the brakes but too me at the brakes still doesnt stop. If I brake with 1/4 throttle, it will keep going another 10ft before i stops. Is this normal? I adjusted to get close to where the Truck almost wont free roll, but this would cause the engine to quit. Not sure if it's too much brake or idle thread needs to adjusted just a tad.

Any info would be greatly appreciated and this is a really great web site for a newb like me.
Old 03-24-2009, 09:36 AM
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Brett185
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Default RE: The Ulitimate Newb

First off, welcome to the hobby. Warning.....once you get the kinks worked out of your truck, you'll find this hobby extremely addictive....lol....now, as for your truck. From what I've read, sounds to me that your on the right track as far as your needle settings. I would turn your idle screw in a hair, and it sounds like you are running lean on your hsn, and rich on your lsn. Once you've made these adjustments, and it still dies when applying brake, you might want to check your sevo arm, it might need a little bit of an adjustment. You might be closing off your carb when the sevo arm pulls back to apply brake. But then again this shouldn't happen if your idle screw is set right. As far as the braking power itself, there should be two allen screws that hold the brake pads on, you might have to tighten them up a little to increase your stopping power. Give these adjustments a try, and see if they help. If not, let us know. We'll get ya fixed up.
Old 03-24-2009, 09:39 AM
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Default RE: The Ulitimate Newb

Oh, one other thing. When your making adjustments to the lsn, make very very small adjustments to it. It's much more sensitive than the hsn. In fact I only turn it no more than 1/32 at a time at the most.
Old 03-24-2009, 11:55 AM
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Default RE: The Ulitimate Newb

Brett,

Thanks for the reply. I can see some of my error.

LSN - was doing 1/8 and slighty more. good to know it just need fraction of an adjustment. I did the pinch test and had it set right the 1st time, but I didnt realize the trim on the remote got moved, so now I have to re-adjust the LSN.

I checked my servo arm and it doesnt close the carburator (1mm gap = good), so I'm good to go on that. I'll adjust the idle a tad.

I used the brake knob on the servo arm and didnt know about the 2 screws that hold the brake pad on can also be adjusted, I'll adjust that. whats the adjusment on that? 1/8, 1/16, or 1/32 of a turn?

It's definately a fun hobby and the Volcano is a nice truck for the price and for my experience.
Old 03-24-2009, 12:25 PM
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Default RE: The Ulitimate Newb

On the brake pad screws a 1/4 turn at a time will be fine. Don't tighten them too much at a time though, otherwise you'll be doing handstands when you stop. Heck my R/C will completely flip all the way over if I tighten them too much. Oh, as far as the throttle trim on the remote, you need it all the way down to absolute zero and then adjust the idle accordingly. The servo doesn't need to have anything to do with the idle, it's the carb alone that needs to handle this. When doing this if you have trouble starting, you can turn the trim up slightly to allow fuel into the carb, which will allow much easier starting. But becareful and don't have it up too much, otherwise it can take off on you. And speaking of that, if you don't have a failsafe, go out and get one before you even attempt to start your truck again. If your batteries get low in your recieveer, or your transmitter, or if you run out of range without a failsafe installed, the throttle servo will automatically open to wide open throttle, and then your in for the chase of your life trying to catch it. Most people aren't lucky enought to catch it before it runs full throttle into something and cost them quite a bit of money. So if you don't have a failsafe, get one. It's one of the most important pieces of epuipment you need on your R/C.
Old 03-24-2009, 01:59 PM
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Default RE: The Ulitimate Newb

Thanks Brett. Been a great help. you brought an interesting question...Failsafe.

Is it easy to install and where can I purchase one? I'm still gathering all websites to be placed in my favorite folders.

I just purchased the power rotor and read the pros and cons on them. I personally think i'll be more pro for me. I completely agree with the failsafe and definately interested in obtaining one of those.

Old 03-24-2009, 02:36 PM
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Default RE: The Ulitimate Newb

They're extremely easy to install. You just hook it up between your throttle servo connector and the reciever. Then ( with the engine off of course ) power on the truck and hit full brake ( of course you need to have your brakes set to where you want them first ) and push the button on the falisafe for 5 sec. till the light blinks. Then your set. You test it by turning off your transmitter while the truck is still powered on. The throttle servo should automatically apply full brakes. As far as where to get one, you can get it at virtually all r/c hobby shops. If you want one off the internet, and also for parts, check out rufaster.com. That's where I've been getting most of my parts lately, they've got great prices and great shipping rates. Now they're prices on they're stock parts is excellent, but I have noticed that they are a little high on they're upgrade and aluminum parts. For those, your better off ordering from Redcat directly. But I wouldn't mess with any of the upgrade or aluminum parts just yet. Wait till you've had your truck for a while and see what parts you break most often ( and you will definetly break parts ) then upgrade those parts first.
Old 03-24-2009, 03:31 PM
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Doctp1885
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Default RE: The Ulitimate Newb

Just as you replied, I googled failsafe and found it. Good price. I'll purchase that once I get the brake setup properly. RUFaster does seem to have some good prices. I've added that to my folder for future purchase of parts which I know I'll need. Broke front lower arm out on my final break in and realized the brakes was just a tad out of synch. haha. no worries. went to LBS and bought a lower arm for 4.99 a pair 30-45min I was back in business. Extremely cheap parts considering my mountain bikes are 10x that much if I break something. Still debating on HOP Ups (Yes, I'm also learning the lingo). I know aluminum exhaust sound like a good option.
Old 03-24-2009, 04:23 PM
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Default RE: The Ulitimate Newb

Aluminum exhaust is a must, also a tubed exhaust manifold to go with it is a good idea. I wouldn't wait to order those, go ahead and get them. You'll see a noticeable difference in bottom end torqe. Also, your gonna want to upgrade your shocks as well. After a few good jumps and a few good crashes, the stock one won't hold up very well. Now I know your volcano has 8 shocks on it now, but if you upgrade to a better set, like the stock t-maxx, or the big bore t-maxx shocks, you won't need 8. 4 will do just fine.
Old 03-24-2009, 07:22 PM
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Default RE: The Ulitimate Newb

Thanks for the info. gonna hit RUfaster.com and purchase what you recommend. on another note, I tweaked the idle a smidge and it's running nice.

Still need to Lean the LSN about 1/32 of a turn and Rich HSN about less than 1/4 turn and it'll be good to go. I set the brakes and it's stopping a alot better. Had to quit with the tuning since I flipped the truck and it was upside down for 10 sec or more before i could get to it and it stop.

Thanks for you help.

I'll purchase the following

Aluminum Exahaust
Tube Manifold
upgraded shocks
failsafe

Old 03-25-2009, 02:58 AM
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Default RE: The Ulitimate Newb


ORIGINAL: Doctp1885


1. Finally got the carburator and trim to 1mm. Still noticed the engine after 1-2min of running will quit when idling. This is telling me that I still need to open the idle just a hair or do I need to Rich/Lean the Low Needle?

Thats kind of normal. The engine loads up with excess fuel and becomes choked and dies. Idling is no fun anyway. You can adjust your idle speed up just until the clutch engages. Do this while sitting the car on a box so the wheels can free-spin.


2. When accelerating, I noticed when full throttle the car would look like it Bogged down. Once I let up the throttle it would be ok. Is this because it's too lean and I need to richen up a little?

yep, richen it up, counter clockwise. The engine is starving for fuel. A lean condition like this will kill the engine from overheating.

3. Braking. I adjusted the brakes but too me at the brakes still doesnt stop. If I brake with 1/4 throttle, it will keep going another 10ft before i stops. Is this normal? I adjusted to get close to where the Truck almost wont free roll, but this would cause the engine to quit. Not sure if it's too much brake or idle thread needs to adjusted just a tad.

Check your gap between the brake calipers and the disc. Adjust them up close so they are almost touching, like a cigarette papers thickness. This will give you more leverage from the brake cam arm-to-servo. When adjusted properly, all 4 wheels can be locked up easily.

Any info would be greatly appreciated and this is a really great web site for a newb like me.
Old 03-25-2009, 07:20 AM
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Default RE: The Ulitimate Newb

u can buy the hop-up kit it will save u some money.. and it comes with tons of alum parts... and did u break in the engine??
Old 03-25-2009, 09:19 AM
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Default RE: The Ulitimate Newb

Yep,

visited redcat website and read the manual before I attempt to break in the engine. Since this was my 1st Nitro RC ever and Zero experience, i'd figured it's best to watch as many videos and read as much as I can.

did the following steps.

1st- had the truck on a 4x4 wood block and let it idle (Once I tuned the idle thread-it took off on me 1st time, idle was set little to high) till gas tank almost empty. - let it sit for 10-15min

2nd- start the truck up and did figure 8 in my back yard. very slowy, less than 1/4 throttle till gas almost emptied

3rd - start the truck and did figure 8 in my back yard. less than 1/2 throttle till gas almost emptied.

4th - start truck and went to the street and throttle less than 3/4. This is when idling issue was happening, lean on the HSN, etc... on my last run coming back I made a quick turn and notice the brakes werent responding as well. hit the curb and broke lower arm.

5th - repaired lower arm, re-adjust idle thread, adjust brake pad, richen the HSN, slightly lean the LSN. Performance was ALOT better. Still need to tweak the HSN (Rich) a little more.

So, I'm almost basically there. I'm sure, it'll be never ending but that's what I like about this hobby Upgrades cheap. tweak out an engine and performance of the truck...what's not to like.
Old 03-25-2009, 10:12 AM
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Default RE: The Ulitimate Newb

Exactly. Half the fun of this hobby is fixing and tweaking them when they need it. You'll find that once you get to know your truck and the engine, things will become much easier. After you've had a few bad crashes and had to make several repairs, you'll be able to diagnose and fix just about anything on the truck on your own. But when you get stuck, we're always here to help. Heck, there's nothing on my Tsunami I can't fix or replace in 45min, or less. Mostly less.
Old 03-25-2009, 11:14 AM
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Default RE: The Ulitimate Newb

Yep, it's a great hobby and I'm glad I decided to go with it. I definately want to upgrade, but upgrade smartly.

Brett,

I went to the LHS and asked if they had big bore tmaxx shocks I can replace, odd thing was is he discouraged me from buying it, almost as if he wasnt sure about my request. Then he said the joint connector? might not be compatible. I later told him a lot of redcat owners modifed this and he just gave me a puzzle look. I've read the forum threads and a lot of owners (Including you) state this can be done, which I believe...just made me think about the connector joints and how I should modify that. any thoughts?
Old 03-25-2009, 01:21 PM
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Default RE: The Ulitimate Newb

Ok, the T-maxx used a hex head screw type joint to connect the shocks to the shock towers. The volcano has a ball mount type connector that screws into the shock towers, which I'm sure you are aware of. You can either use the T-maxx connector, maybe I'm not sure, I haven't tried it, or you can do what I did and just snap them to the ball mount on your volcano. Now mine did crack on top of the shock, the round plastic part on top of the shock, but all 4 cracked perfectly for them to fit onto the ball joint. I've yet to have one fall off or even give me the slightest trouble. You can probably just use a screw and a washer or if you can find a bushing that will fit that will work too. But yes, it can be done. Many people on here are using them. This is one of the reasons why these are called hobby grade r/c's. Some modding on some parts may be required to achieve your goal. You can make just about anything work if your willing to make it work.
Old 03-25-2009, 02:08 PM
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Default RE: The Ulitimate Newb

i'll definately keep that in mind.

I just purchased from RUFaster FailSafe, Aluminum tunes exhaust and manifold. Just trying to find the best deals for shocks now.
Old 03-25-2009, 04:11 PM
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Default RE: The Ulitimate Newb

Well the problem with the T-maxx big bores, is I've never seen them come in less than an 8 pack. Now of course it's always good to have extras, but a pack of 8 will run you about $60 or so. Look at the big bore shocks for the Redcat Landslide, if you don't want to buy the big bore T-maxx. Also you can do what I did and use the stock T-maxx shocks. They're plastic instead of aluminum, and they use a spacer instead of a threaded bore for the preload, but like I said, I've been using them for months now and they have held up to some of the worst abuse you can imagine. But any of these will work great. It's up to you and what you want to spend.
Old 03-25-2009, 04:40 PM
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Default RE: The Ulitimate Newb

T-maxx Ultra shocks 2 in a pack #3762A They work very well on Redcat

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