Idle Adjusting Screw
05-09-2009, 04:22 PM
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Idle Adjusting Screw
Pretty new to this, I was having problems starting my Tornado BB, so I turned it a few times to test it.
Then looked in the book and read to turn it all the way in, then 3 turns out.
Well turns out its not the idle adjusting screw I was suppost to do this with, it was needle valve and low end mixture.
What is the best setting to get my car running, still having problems just getting it started.
Then looked in the book and read to turn it all the way in, then 3 turns out.
Well turns out its not the idle adjusting screw I was suppost to do this with, it was needle valve and low end mixture.
What is the best setting to get my car running, still having problems just getting it started.
05-09-2009, 05:08 PM
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RE: Idle Adjusting Screw
Idle 1mm Gap
HSP(High Speed Needle) 2.5 to 3 turns out from Seat. I personally have found they run best between 2.5 and 2 turns out, but we are in Texas, whole different altitude and climate. I would say start at 2.5 turns and go from there.
LSN(Low Speed Needle) Flush with the collar.
You might have to hold the throttle open alittle bit to get it started especially if it's brand new.
HSP(High Speed Needle) 2.5 to 3 turns out from Seat. I personally have found they run best between 2.5 and 2 turns out, but we are in Texas, whole different altitude and climate. I would say start at 2.5 turns and go from there.
LSN(Low Speed Needle) Flush with the collar.
You might have to hold the throttle open alittle bit to get it started especially if it's brand new.
05-09-2009, 07:35 PM
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RE: Idle Adjusting Screw
Ok, really newb question follow up - what does the idle screw do?
I mean, I can tighten it fully, it still sticks out some. It doesnt effect the opening in the carborator, but I did set it to 1mm opening through the settings on the controller.
I bought 4 tornado bb's and a shockwave, I cant get any of them to start. Its disapointing.
I mean, I can tighten it fully, it still sticks out some. It doesnt effect the opening in the carborator, but I did set it to 1mm opening through the settings on the controller.
I bought 4 tornado bb's and a shockwave, I cant get any of them to start. Its disapointing.
05-09-2009, 08:04 PM
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RE: Idle Adjusting Screw
Hi man and welcome to the forum, you are definitely in the wright place for questions these guy's on here are very helpfull and knowledgeable.
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8525323/tm.htm]Here[/link] is a link that can really help you understand you nitro RC.
Hope it helps
[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8525323/tm.htm]Here[/link] is a link that can really help you understand you nitro RC.
Hope it helps
05-10-2009, 08:57 AM
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RE: Idle Adjusting Screw
Yes, I watched all of the video's, they where extreamly helpful.
But they dont go into any detail on the idle screw. The instruction manual has a total of 1 sentense about it. "This is the idle screw, this sets the idle speed of your car."
Not very informative. But after some fiddling with it, I find theirs a groove in the carb that keeps it from moving, is this the intended possition?
I got one to start, but it died about 6 seconds after.
I had one that ran GREAT for about 2 hours, turned it off, put it down for about a half hour, then couldn't get it started again.
So far each of my cars (4) run for the break in peroid, then refuse to start. I must be doing something horribly wrong. Thanks for the help anyways!
But they dont go into any detail on the idle screw. The instruction manual has a total of 1 sentense about it. "This is the idle screw, this sets the idle speed of your car."
Not very informative. But after some fiddling with it, I find theirs a groove in the carb that keeps it from moving, is this the intended possition?
I got one to start, but it died about 6 seconds after.
I had one that ran GREAT for about 2 hours, turned it off, put it down for about a half hour, then couldn't get it started again.
So far each of my cars (4) run for the break in peroid, then refuse to start. I must be doing something horribly wrong. Thanks for the help anyways!
05-10-2009, 09:07 AM
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RE: Idle Adjusting Screw
make sure ur idle is set at 1mm
take out ur glow plugs and pull the cord a couple times-becareful fuel might come out of the hole and get in ur eyes
make sure ur glow plug igniter is fully charged
check ur glow plugs to see if they still work
u might need to add some throttle to get it started
take out ur glow plugs and pull the cord a couple times-becareful fuel might come out of the hole and get in ur eyes
make sure ur glow plug igniter is fully charged
check ur glow plugs to see if they still work
u might need to add some throttle to get it started
05-10-2009, 10:29 AM
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RE: Idle Adjusting Screw
I must be doing something fundamentally wrong.
I ran 3-4 tanks on each car, then when letting them sit and cool down as per the stated in many instructions. But after, when trying to restart, none of them even start a little. Its mind boggling.
Could they be faulty? Cause when I ordered them, I ordered 5 Tornado BB's (I have a big family and this is suppost to come to our camp ground and let the kids have fun! Me too of course!) but when they arrived, I had a Shockwave and 4 Tornado's. (I guess I was slightly swindled.)
But none of them work at all after the break in peroid. I ran them with a 4% more oil mix for the first break in tank like someone suggested, then switched over to only 10% oil mix. I cleared the engines, popped out the glow plugs, pulled them a few times upside down to get the excess fuel out. I checked glow plugs and igniters, all working fine. Its not hard to pull the cord after clearing the flooded engine, BUT it still doesnt even come close to starting.
I tried running them rich, dry, I made sure the carb screw is flush, I did 2 1/2 turns of the needle valve...
Ugh.. So far 18 hours fixing, 15 minutes running them. lol
I ran 3-4 tanks on each car, then when letting them sit and cool down as per the stated in many instructions. But after, when trying to restart, none of them even start a little. Its mind boggling.
Could they be faulty? Cause when I ordered them, I ordered 5 Tornado BB's (I have a big family and this is suppost to come to our camp ground and let the kids have fun! Me too of course!) but when they arrived, I had a Shockwave and 4 Tornado's. (I guess I was slightly swindled.)
But none of them work at all after the break in peroid. I ran them with a 4% more oil mix for the first break in tank like someone suggested, then switched over to only 10% oil mix. I cleared the engines, popped out the glow plugs, pulled them a few times upside down to get the excess fuel out. I checked glow plugs and igniters, all working fine. Its not hard to pull the cord after clearing the flooded engine, BUT it still doesnt even come close to starting.
I tried running them rich, dry, I made sure the carb screw is flush, I did 2 1/2 turns of the needle valve...
Ugh.. So far 18 hours fixing, 15 minutes running them. lol
05-10-2009, 05:20 PM
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RE: Idle Adjusting Screw
Listen man. Odonells, byrons, whatever. there all great fuels. But we ALWAYS always suggest to a nooby to run traxxas 20%. Traxxas fuel has ignitors in it that help the engine start. It also has a 16% oil content that will help keep a noobie from burning up there engine do to mistuning. Don't get me wrong you will still burn it up, but you have a better chance with alittle extra oil.
You NEED to be running 20% nitro fuel. Odonell's, byrons, Racers Edge Surefire, Traxxas Top Fuel or what ever that chineese stuff redcat is selling is. As long as it's 20 percent fuel, don't worry about the oil content, just make sure it's 20% nitro fuel.
I have to ask, what type of fuel are you running that you are changing the oil content of it?
The idle needle does exactly what it's name implies. It adjusts the idle of the engine. If the gap is too wide it will idle way way to fast. If the gap is too small it will idle way way to slow, die or just straight up not start. You CAN NOT adjust the idle screw via the controler properly, that's an on the fly adjustment and it actually ment to give you the ability to adjust for during a race on the fly. It does not qualify as a proper tuning adjustment.
Your cars are not starting because of the folow possibilities:
1.) Wrong fuel
2.) Engine Burned up from using the wrong fuel
3.) Engine improperly tuned
4.) Not getting fuel to the engine
5.) Exhaust leak
6.) Bad glow plug
7.) Weak glow plug ignitor
I'm leaning torwards 1, 2 or 3
Idle 1mm Gap
HSN(High Speed Needle) 2.5 to 3 turns out from Seat. I personally have found they run best between 2.5 and 2 turns out, but we are in Texas, whole different altitude and climate. I would say start at 2.5 turns and go from there.
LSN(Low Speed Needle) Flush with the collar.
Each time you make an adjustcment you need to run it around alittle bit for the adjustment to take effect. Each adjustment is made in no more than 1/16 to 1/8th turns Clockwise or Counter Clockwise. You start with the idle and get it to stay idling. Once you get that, your move to the HSN and get that one adjusted. You want to adjust that one till you get to the point where you give it full throttle and it lean bogs and cuts out at that point you want to back the needle out about a 1/8 to 1/2 turn. Ten you work on the LSN you want ti to take off and not hesitate when you hit the throttle. That LSN adjustment should need to be more than 1/8 to 1/2 turn at the most. You also need to have a basic knowledge of how a carburator works in the first place to be able to even begine to understand how to tune one. I can tune a 6 barrel carb, but it took me a few months to learn how to properly tune one of these engines. They are very touchy so you have to make very small adjustment.
Who did you buy the cars from? You should have contacted them about the wrong order being sent.
You NEED to be running 20% nitro fuel. Odonell's, byrons, Racers Edge Surefire, Traxxas Top Fuel or what ever that chineese stuff redcat is selling is. As long as it's 20 percent fuel, don't worry about the oil content, just make sure it's 20% nitro fuel.
I have to ask, what type of fuel are you running that you are changing the oil content of it?
The idle needle does exactly what it's name implies. It adjusts the idle of the engine. If the gap is too wide it will idle way way to fast. If the gap is too small it will idle way way to slow, die or just straight up not start. You CAN NOT adjust the idle screw via the controler properly, that's an on the fly adjustment and it actually ment to give you the ability to adjust for during a race on the fly. It does not qualify as a proper tuning adjustment.
Your cars are not starting because of the folow possibilities:
1.) Wrong fuel
2.) Engine Burned up from using the wrong fuel
3.) Engine improperly tuned
4.) Not getting fuel to the engine
5.) Exhaust leak
6.) Bad glow plug
7.) Weak glow plug ignitor
I'm leaning torwards 1, 2 or 3
Idle 1mm Gap
HSN(High Speed Needle) 2.5 to 3 turns out from Seat. I personally have found they run best between 2.5 and 2 turns out, but we are in Texas, whole different altitude and climate. I would say start at 2.5 turns and go from there.
LSN(Low Speed Needle) Flush with the collar.
Each time you make an adjustcment you need to run it around alittle bit for the adjustment to take effect. Each adjustment is made in no more than 1/16 to 1/8th turns Clockwise or Counter Clockwise. You start with the idle and get it to stay idling. Once you get that, your move to the HSN and get that one adjusted. You want to adjust that one till you get to the point where you give it full throttle and it lean bogs and cuts out at that point you want to back the needle out about a 1/8 to 1/2 turn. Ten you work on the LSN you want ti to take off and not hesitate when you hit the throttle. That LSN adjustment should need to be more than 1/8 to 1/2 turn at the most. You also need to have a basic knowledge of how a carburator works in the first place to be able to even begine to understand how to tune one. I can tune a 6 barrel carb, but it took me a few months to learn how to properly tune one of these engines. They are very touchy so you have to make very small adjustment.
Who did you buy the cars from? You should have contacted them about the wrong order being sent.
05-10-2009, 11:31 PM
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RE: Idle Adjusting Screw
ok, i'm still a noob at this myself but i have learned ALOT just from reading posts here, and experimenting with my truck.
here's what i found out about the idle on these things. loosen the idle screw (turn it out, but don't take it all the way out...just loosen it). turn the radio and the car on (just the electronics) and set the throttle trim on the radio to 0.
on the rod that goes from the servo to the carb. you will see 2 hex shaped stoppers. loosen those stoppers and pull the rod back towards the rear of the car. this will fully close your carburator. now, while pulling the rod back, tighten the stoppers on the rod so that the carb is fully closed and so that the rod can not move backwards toward the rear of the car. after you get this set, work the throttle and the brakes a few times just to make sure that everything stays set and nothing is binding or rubbing.
now, remove the air filter and start turning the idle screw in. you will see the carb start to open after awhile (this is where you want the 1 mm gap).
you should not set the idle with the trim knob on your radio because when you do that, the carb will close all the way and kill the motor when you use the brakes. once the idle screw is set, the carb will not close all the way and kill the motor when you use the brakes. if you set the idle by using the trim knob, the carb barrel has nothing to stop it from going backwards (fully closed). the idle screw, and the servo set at 0 will keep the carb from going 100% closed when you use the brakes.
This may not be your problem, but it's what i found out on my volcano.
wade is 100% correct...you need to understand how a carb. works to tune one right.
here's what i found out about the idle on these things. loosen the idle screw (turn it out, but don't take it all the way out...just loosen it). turn the radio and the car on (just the electronics) and set the throttle trim on the radio to 0.
on the rod that goes from the servo to the carb. you will see 2 hex shaped stoppers. loosen those stoppers and pull the rod back towards the rear of the car. this will fully close your carburator. now, while pulling the rod back, tighten the stoppers on the rod so that the carb is fully closed and so that the rod can not move backwards toward the rear of the car. after you get this set, work the throttle and the brakes a few times just to make sure that everything stays set and nothing is binding or rubbing.
now, remove the air filter and start turning the idle screw in. you will see the carb start to open after awhile (this is where you want the 1 mm gap).
you should not set the idle with the trim knob on your radio because when you do that, the carb will close all the way and kill the motor when you use the brakes. once the idle screw is set, the carb will not close all the way and kill the motor when you use the brakes. if you set the idle by using the trim knob, the carb barrel has nothing to stop it from going backwards (fully closed). the idle screw, and the servo set at 0 will keep the carb from going 100% closed when you use the brakes.
This may not be your problem, but it's what i found out on my volcano.
wade is 100% correct...you need to understand how a carb. works to tune one right.
05-11-2009, 01:55 PM
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RE: Idle Adjusting Screw
im wondering what fuel he is using too....im glad i have basic knowledge of the adjustments from being a small engine mechanic...i'd be completely lost myself if i didnt undersand that...
i hope hes not just using weedeater type fuel...would the nitro engines even start on 2 cycle mixed gas?
i hope hes not just using weedeater type fuel...would the nitro engines even start on 2 cycle mixed gas?
05-11-2009, 06:39 PM
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RE: Idle Adjusting Screw
I don't think they will. If I remember seeing someone on youtube try it and nothing happened, I think I know I saw someone some where along time back try it. But on the off chance that he is, that would be very very bad. Like I said I seriously doubt it would even start, there's not enough compression, no rings and no spark plug or ignition system.
05-15-2009, 03:49 PM
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RE: Idle Adjusting Screw
Ok, it took me a few days to get this post up because I got 5 cars and I finally got them started. But the following problems.
The fuel I used to break in the engines was XRC Fuel, 20% nitro and 14% oil, I went with a higher oil content fuel to get them broken in.
1. The Shockwave (The one that Amazing RC Hobbies http://myworld.ebay.com/amazing_rc_hobby/ sold me saying it was a tornado BB). I contacted them, they have not sent a reply to the 3 emails I sent. I am pretty sure I was superscammed, but whatever.
I got this car started, however after about 40 minutes of use, the engine wouldn't start, then after some adjusting, it starts, but now only idles at a very high speed and wont sit still, all setting are exactly as stated at the start of this post. It starts and tries to go full speed, even with the carb adjusted. When we fiddled with it to get it to idle, it stalls instantly.
2. Tornado BB #1 - I got this started, but after running it a tank of fuel, I put it on the ground, I rev'd but no go.. I looked under and one of the gears is completly grinded away, never even hit the road and the gear is flat as a board. It looks properly set, nothing is differant from the other cars.
3. Tornado BB #2 - We got this one started, the engine started, but the throddle was going full blast instantly non-stop. Even had it at a mechanic's shop and they where having a look. But the last time we started it, it went ape **** and the belt melted.
4. Tornado BB #3 - This one had a longer life then the others, about 2 days decent use, but now the pull cord doesnt go back in without a little bit of coaxing, the wheels lock when this happens and a mechanic friend of mine said the engine might be dirty and ceasing, so I might have to open it up and take a look.
5. Tornado BB #4 - Runs fine, ez to start, had about 5 days decent use, no problems.
1 out of 5 are alive after 1 day of use.
The fuel I used to break in the engines was XRC Fuel, 20% nitro and 14% oil, I went with a higher oil content fuel to get them broken in.
1. The Shockwave (The one that Amazing RC Hobbies http://myworld.ebay.com/amazing_rc_hobby/ sold me saying it was a tornado BB). I contacted them, they have not sent a reply to the 3 emails I sent. I am pretty sure I was superscammed, but whatever.
I got this car started, however after about 40 minutes of use, the engine wouldn't start, then after some adjusting, it starts, but now only idles at a very high speed and wont sit still, all setting are exactly as stated at the start of this post. It starts and tries to go full speed, even with the carb adjusted. When we fiddled with it to get it to idle, it stalls instantly.
2. Tornado BB #1 - I got this started, but after running it a tank of fuel, I put it on the ground, I rev'd but no go.. I looked under and one of the gears is completly grinded away, never even hit the road and the gear is flat as a board. It looks properly set, nothing is differant from the other cars.
3. Tornado BB #2 - We got this one started, the engine started, but the throddle was going full blast instantly non-stop. Even had it at a mechanic's shop and they where having a look. But the last time we started it, it went ape **** and the belt melted.
4. Tornado BB #3 - This one had a longer life then the others, about 2 days decent use, but now the pull cord doesnt go back in without a little bit of coaxing, the wheels lock when this happens and a mechanic friend of mine said the engine might be dirty and ceasing, so I might have to open it up and take a look.
5. Tornado BB #4 - Runs fine, ez to start, had about 5 days decent use, no problems.
1 out of 5 are alive after 1 day of use.
05-15-2009, 04:18 PM
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RE: Idle Adjusting Screw
Ok. First of all the Tornados don't have belts.
2nd of all, I have to tell you out of ALL the cars we've sold locally we have only had one or two people not take the class we offer when you guy your car and those two people are the two that had this kind of problems along with alot of people that are brand new to the hobby, like on these forums. That's why these forums are here though. I suspect these problems are actually simple issues, that have to do with either the radio system, a small miss adjustment to the linkage, a small miss adjustment to the carb or something as simple as the fuel tank lid just doesn't seal right. My suggestion is to scrap the fuel you are using go to your local hobby shop and pick up a quart of Traxxas Top fuel, once again reset the carbs, check out the fuel lines, check out your radios and make sure there's no twitching and that everything works properly, take the battery box cover off and wiggle wires looking for a loose or broken wire.
If you still can't figure it out, see if your local hobb shop will help you out. If not PM me or call me at 817-907-1585 ask for wade. Sometimes talking to someone on the phone helps more than talking on the forums and if you still can't figure it out. Your more than welcome to ship them to us and we can take a look at them. More times than not I can figure out the problem in less than 5 minutes.
2nd of all, I have to tell you out of ALL the cars we've sold locally we have only had one or two people not take the class we offer when you guy your car and those two people are the two that had this kind of problems along with alot of people that are brand new to the hobby, like on these forums. That's why these forums are here though. I suspect these problems are actually simple issues, that have to do with either the radio system, a small miss adjustment to the linkage, a small miss adjustment to the carb or something as simple as the fuel tank lid just doesn't seal right. My suggestion is to scrap the fuel you are using go to your local hobby shop and pick up a quart of Traxxas Top fuel, once again reset the carbs, check out the fuel lines, check out your radios and make sure there's no twitching and that everything works properly, take the battery box cover off and wiggle wires looking for a loose or broken wire.
If you still can't figure it out, see if your local hobb shop will help you out. If not PM me or call me at 817-907-1585 ask for wade. Sometimes talking to someone on the phone helps more than talking on the forums and if you still can't figure it out. Your more than welcome to ship them to us and we can take a look at them. More times than not I can figure out the problem in less than 5 minutes.
05-16-2009, 05:20 PM
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RE: Idle Adjusting Screw
alright set up my screws as told in earlier post finally get fired off but by time i let go of crank start it dies off any suggestions!
05-16-2009, 05:51 PM
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RE: Idle Adjusting Screw
ALRIGHT I GOT THROUGH A WHOLE TANK OF GAS RUNNING GOOD BUT IF I TAKE THE GLOW PLUG IGNITER OFF AND COMPLETLY HIT THE BRAKES IT CONKS OUT ON ME, ANY SUGGESTIONS!
05-16-2009, 08:42 PM
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RE: Idle Adjusting Screw
Turn your idle screw in, your idle is too low so when you pull the brakes it pulls the carb too far closed. If you turn it in it will make it stay open just enough.
05-17-2009, 12:58 AM
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RE: Idle Adjusting Screw
ORIGINAL: Evan Irish
can someone put up a pic showing which screw is throttle which is high end and which is low end on my red cat tornado
can someone put up a pic showing which screw is throttle which is high end and which is low end on my red cat tornado
05-17-2009, 08:07 PM
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RE: Idle Adjusting Screw
Now its running great got everything set just right im pretty sure even stays on when i brake but the second i take the igniter off the glow plug it stops running so i am running it with the glow pulg igniter on it! any suggestions!
