hkunz

I've been playing with my car for a while, and there's a few things I'd like to do to it, but am not sure where to get the stuff, or if my ideas will work. I built my own 1:1 crawler that works great, but it only has one engine, and it isn't on the axle, so i know there are thngs that won't transfer directly over.

Here's what I'm looking at -

Bent lower arms for more rock clearance

Bigger tires with a softer compound

Larger (in terms of torque) motors with greater range. My rear motor stalls out sometimes on technical stuff (like vertical walls just less than the wheelbase) at very low speed. More torque should take care of the stall issue, greater RPM range should alow me to go both slower and faster.

A Jeep body, preferably CJ-5. (It came with a Hummer body, probably the least capable 4x4 in the world in 1:1; what's up with that?)

Paint that will stick to these lightweight plastic parts.

Where could i source parts, and will any of these ideas work?

TIA!

cul8tr

My Feedback: (4)

Go to rc crawler do a search for rs10. I posted this earlier, there is alot of info on this site. Motor swaps, gear changes, etc.

hkunz

I saw your post, but I thought maybe the factory guys had some good info....

Thanks!

cul8tr

My Feedback: (4)

Just got mine today. 1st thing that I did was cut the tires, wasn't enough so I cut a little more. A little better bite on the rocks now. I'll try the Simple Green trick to soften up the tires. If that dosen't work I'll use some tire prep for racing gokarts on dirt ovals. I'll have to do this carefully, it may melt this tire rubber. Did the wiring mod mentioned on rc crawler, less axle stall . Might try different size wires for the F and R motors or different size pinions between the F and R. Possibilities; lipo battery, different motors, lower gearing, don't know yet.

cul8tr

My Feedback: (4)

Well stock tires suck,to hard of a compound. Tried my Aftershock 8E tires to get a rough idea of a softer rubber compound. Put my stock LCC tires and wheels on, and wow what a difference in traction and grip. I'm going to wire the rear motor first then run a smaller wire from there to the front motor to eliminate a little more rear axle stall, hopefully. Does anybody know if this will or will not work to elimniate axle stall? Example; lets say a 35t motor on one axle and a 45t motor on the other axle. Just curious?

Jamus

You could also run a 1 tooth larger pinion on the front axle. I did that on my cliff climber which is similar to the RC10. I ran 12T pinion front and 11T pinion rear, so it kinda pulls the rear around, made a big difference.

andys60

Run an 8 tooth in the rear and a 10 tooth in the front. Don't bother with the stock tires get a set of Rock Claws or Proline Hammers. While the tires are off the rims, add some stick on lead weights. This will make a world of difference in the performance.

cul8tr

My Feedback: (4)

I connected the 2 yellow and 2 blue wires together coming out of the esc. I put 12 ga. wire from the esc to the rear motor. I ran 18ga. wire from the rear motor to the front motor. Still have some stall but I can live with this little of stall. When she stalls I blip or grab full throttle this lets the rear start pulling, result a little control over the stall. Well I fried the rev. in the esc. My fault I mixed up the pos. and the neg. OOPS!!! The rs10 on 2S lipo (Tenergy 7.4 1800mah 20c) is what I was looking for. Great wheel speed and alot stronger. The log pile and the rocks are so much easier. On the steep sections just grab the throttle and she clears the section with ease. These sections were hard because a lack of power with the stock battery. Not any more!!! I might make a teflon skid plate and make some bent links next. I gotta go play now though without rev. The LCC rims came with Losi Rock Claws. I star cut the foam inside the tires and added 6 0z. to the front wheels. Might add some more weight to the front somewhere. I changed the shock oil to 30 wt. front and rear.

hkunz

OK, I broke down and got the bigger soft compound tires, looks way cooler, haven't tried them yet. I also go a Jeep body, I'm still working on that. I'm done with the second xa

hkunz

exacto knife (sorry for truncated earlier post)The trimming of the body is much harder than i anticipated; I figured I'd have it all painted and ready to go by now, but it looks like I'll be running the stock body

hkunz

Never buy a Mac, it screws up constantly.

Anyway, as i was saying, I want my new Jeep body to look like my 1:1 cralwer, a CJ-5 with stretched wheelbase and huge tires, red, with a lot of rollcage piping, and cut out fenders. This will take a while, especially since the knife blades wear out so fast and i don't want to cut off a finger.

I got the HPI Hot Body 2.5 comp tires, and put ten pennies in each front one. They rattle a bit, but it should work beter than nothing. I had to actually use my bifocals to get the little beadlocks on correctly, prety cool setup.

If i can figure out how to do pics later i'll get them up.

cul8tr

My Feedback: (4)

For trimming the bodies, Dubro racing has the lexan scissors and body reamer as a combo for $13 or $14. Well worth the price. Some people use lead shot for weight, I used automotive stick on weights. They will work inside the rim or inside the tire under the foam. I made a lexan plate on the top of the upper link for the lipo battery to rest on. I put velcro on top of the top mount (cat head over the servo) and velcro on the lipo battery. I used a rubber band across the top of the battery and slid it over the ears of the cat head as a precaution. If one battery is not enough weight I can velcro the other one on top of it for more weight depending on the terrain. Tenergy 7.4 1800mah 20c is the lipo battery that I'm talking about. If I don't go with a stock esc, I may go with a Mayhem esc either single or dual motor. I think the amp is higher on the Mayhem than the stock esc. My beadlocks had 2 different size allen screws, 1/16 sae standard and 1.5 mm, weird huh. I will go to my bolt and tool supply to get all metric screws.

hkunz

What is lipo?

Will it give me less stalling?

I tried climbing something today in reverse, with the rear steer on and front locked out. The lower set of wheels stalled - meaning the front, which would otherwise spin. The car was almost going to climb it, but without rear wheel drive (in forward and reverse, both) it just got hung up and eventualy endoed. The new tires allowed better climbing, but the rear motor still stalls.

hkunz

Oh, and thanks for the hint on the scissors, i got some ordered up.

chevyderek72

Lipo is a newer battery technology, Deff a better battery but you have to be more cautious with them. then can explode [X(] But if your carefull your good. they have constant power from full charge to dead, unlike nimh and nicd, they also put out a lot more amps then nimh and nicd. Basically a better overall battery, but are more expensive and need a special charger

BADASSPONY

As far as mods, ALOT of Axial parts work like, bent lowers, steering knucles (front and rear), high clearance steering system (must put link from servo to short side and add spacer) and Im working on some other mods. Ill do a complete write up of my full comp RS10 soon.

cul8tr

My Feedback: (4)

hkunz, The wiring mod helped out alot with the stall, but with the lipo its like twice as fast. On climbs I now have the extra power the clear these harder sections with the lipo, just grab the throttle. The wiring mod I found out the info on rc crawler. I thought I would try 12 ga. wire to the rear motor, then 18 ga. wire from the rear motor to the front motor, it also helped with stall. Some people say running a smaller pinion on the front motor works to. I will try this next with the same setup maybe it will eliminate even more stall. Lipo batteries at ampedrc and hobby king the US warehouse (TURNIGY battery name from these sites). I thought about taking out the upper tray for the esc and the rec., and putting them down where the battery was. The roller wheel that mounts under the battery tray is part no. RCT-H101 $11.99. Suspose to help with chassis hang ups. you asked about different motors. Some people are using banebots motors and some are putting in 540 or 550 motors. With the added power of the lipo I probably won't change my motors, if I do maybe I can find some cobalt 454 puller motors for sale(new $80 ea.).

cul8tr

My Feedback: (4)

Bent the stock lower links. Took out the ball in the shock cap and put some nitro fuel line in its place. The upper shock mount is not tightened down, it pivots. Modified the lower shock cups, they sit on the plastic turnbuckles now. Drilled out the center and cut the bottom shoulder off.

Mickstix

Im not into crawlers, but the mods your talkin about sound cool!!I love mods!! Got any pix of your work??Thanks!

BADASSPONY

I just ordered some bent links, internal shock springs, and deans connectors, I also have delrin to make a skid plate, and carbon fiber to turn the upper links around. I also have a custom painted grappler body being painted as we speak.

schlags62

Has anyone found a way to get rid of the silly plastic triangle on the front and rear??

BADASSPONY

All you have to do is make a bracket to screw to the axle, 4 rod ends and a screw with a nut and yer set. Heres a link on rccrawler.com that has all the mods we are doing and how we did them. That should help. Once all my parts get here I will be doing a build thread as well.

 http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=203627