Drive trance problens
 

Ok got my redcat lightning str up and running great but I think my trans or dif is messed up. When I take off fast it wants to push hard to the left it's not the steering trim I checked and made sure my transmitter was set te Same as it was previously. How can I check if I need a new one of either. Without tarring the whole thing down. Any help would b appreciated

It also has alum lower arms front and back, alum c hubs, and hub holders, alum spindles with alum locking hex hubs, upgraded cvs axles, alum shocks. Don't kno it the arms can b bent by an off the road cart wheel.

So it only tries to turn left when u take off?
As far as the car cart wheeling u may have bent a suspension hemge or something like that, maybe even the adjuster for the toe.?

Ok. I'll have to check tonite. But I ended up takin apart te whole cart except the trans cuz I'm getting some resistance somewhere in the drive train and I think the gears where under greased. What type of axel grease is good? White lithium or regular axel grease

It's not so much it only tries to turn left it's more like it's trying to push its self left as it's trying to go forward on hard take offs

Almost all shaft driven 4wd r/c cars have a little torque steer under heavy acceleration. The cartwheel probably made that worse.

And adjusting ur trims didnt help? Assuming they r sealed diffs, get some diff oil. Its normally a thicker oil. I have an axial exo terra and for instance ive read some guys run a heavier weight oil in the front than the rear 7,000front 5,000rear something like that.
My exo liks to try to steer itself when I take off hard cuz one tire will breaak loose and the other maintain grip so it trys to push itself to one side. Hows ur tires? All wor down or pretty good still?

I hate it when my drive is in a trance :)

as stated, a 4wd will have some pull under hard acceleration. but id still bet there is an issue adding to the problem. if any wheel on the left is binding in any way, power will go to the right side wheels and thus it will pull left. over tightened wheels could do it. binding of a dog bone or even CVD could.
turn all the wheels by hand.....1st without holding the wheel on the other side and then with holding it. just feel if any one wheel has more resistance on it.

Ok finally got to work on it now waiting for parts. But the front dif was about to b wasted.getting new front and rears plus aluminum front and rear shock towers. But I'm thinking about trading it for a nitro off road truck. I think that I would b better off cuz I got more dirt and mud than blacktop. Jus not sure cuz of the amount of cash I've got in this thing now

IMO offroad is more fun. but be warned, more times than not a used nitro is a bunch of headaches. with yours you know what the issues are. Many long-time RC'ers will tell you don't buy a used nitro unless you are prepared to buy a new motor for it.
That said, I have on occasion found used rustler .15 and 2.5 that were RTR for a fair price and that I got running with not much effort. but it really just depends on how the person took care of it. It is not like with an electric motor, which doesn't care if it was cleaned after each run, and isn't likely to have been overheated or to have been broken in poorly. I feel much more comfortable buying a used electric than a nitro. basically, I only buy a used nitro when it is dirt cheap.

I did once get a rustler .15 off ebay for $45. no radio or body, but the rest was there. this was an AS IS, found in a basement truck. but for $45 I figured id get my money's worth in parts. when it arrived, I found the motor was seized right up. couldn't move the flywheel. I took the motor as apart as I could, let it soak in PB blast overnight, put it back together and had it running around my backyard that day. that turned out to be a pretty good deal :)