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RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
Okie, im attempting to retune this thing and after warming it up heres whats happening. From a stop, giving throttle its pretty sluggish from idle to about mid rpm and once it hits mid rpm it runs fine and takes off. this is both easing the throttle and jamming on the throttle. Also when spooling down once it hits mid rpm it stalls. Im thinking lean the low speed needle but i want to double check before i start leaning it out. I started with the HSN rich... it wasnt passing mid rpm at first so i started leaning the HSN untill it started taking off at mid rpm range, still sluggish at low rpm though. Lookin for some feedback :)
Thanks PS: I checked the needle turns and the HSN was out about 3 1/2 turns and the LSN was out around 3 turns with the muffler side screw in as far as it can go. ADD: I think im about finished for the day. I've had 2 glow plugs go sour on me in the past hour or so. I took a look at them and the coil was a bit out of shape but as i understand it that is an indicator of a very lean setting, but I have my LSN out a good deal and same with the HSN. I planned on working from a rich to lean setting after the motor warmed... I was getting a bit of blue smoke at idle and a good deal of it when i tried throttling which also told me i was set rich, but why would the coil in the plug be bent out some? If anything is open today i'll go get another plug, but untill then im benched for the day. |
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
Hey Buggygovroom-
Yes the LSN is definitely rich. That is why it's in the first portion of the acceleration. Also 3 turns should be WAY too much. I believe mine is more at about 2 or maybe 1 3/4. The pinching the fuel line test works pretty well for figuring out your lowspeed adj, but be sure you are doing it close to where the fuel enters the carb. If you do it too far away it's just burning the fuel in the line. But I've found when you are doing it close it should take about 3 sec to die. That will get you close to where you need to be and then you can fine tune it later if you need to. They Testy- I can't say enough how good of a car this is. I am pretty new to the hobby but I do a LOT of research on things before I step in or recommend. I started with a smartech which has been fun and helped me get into the hobby cheap and see if I would enjoy it, I have an OFNA 9.5, and the Himoto Torpeda Pro (.27 engine). I can honestly say the Himoto has been the best of them. The OFNA I've had a lot of trouble with but didn't buy new, but I do have it going now and it drives no better than the Himoto. The Himoto has just as solid looking parts. The shock towers are thinner on the Himoto BUT they are the SAME size as on the Kyosho 7.5. I've flipped end over end (having it hit once bounce up 2-3ft, and continue to flip several more times) I've had it cartwheel 6-7 times in a row on a single spill etc and so on, and have NOT broke ONE piece. I know I'm due. Because I hear people with their $700 Hyper 7 and Jammin's breaking things eventually too. But so far I have not been nice to this thing at all and it has not let me down. A thing to remember (for everyone thinking of buying one) about the people who buy other cars and bash these because they don't' know about them. Imagine you just spent all this time thinking about buying a car. You went with one that was $500-700 because you weren't sure if another one was going to be good. So know you have your wonderful new car and someone asks about a $250 car and if it's good. Of course you are going to say !QUOT!no, it sucks!QUOT! and bash it because you have to rationalize your purchase to yourself, or you would feel like you wasted $250+. Finally on the flip side, are their better cars? Yes. For the money? I really believe no. For a little more money? Probably not. If you want to spend $700-$1000 then of course you will get a better car. As things lie in the subtleties, but when you're a newbie you don't even know yet what you are going to need. Great beginner car for sure and be sure to check out Laughing Potato's post about winnin 6th place in competition with his. This isn't just a bashing car if you know what you are doing. This was his first go in comp with a buggy I believe. Used it STOCK vs everyone's $1000 cars. Last 2 issues you asked about - Parts you can get fairly easily from several on-line vendors at this point and they are competitively priced (Most of the time my Hobby shop doesn't have the part I NEED and has to !QUOT!order!QUOT! it in for a week. I can !QUOT!order!QUOT! it myself without traveling to the shop). Lastly - I don't know yet about the Kyosho parts and others mixing because I haven't broken anything. When I do I'm going to see how the Kyosho stuff fits. I can say this - I was at the LHS and saw the 7.5 side by side and these things looked almost exactly alike. The front arms are different, but other stuff looked like it would be exact fit but I DON'T know yet. OFNA Wheels and tire nuts fit :) Good luck man - hope to see you in here adding info on what you can do with these things. It's growin all the time. |
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
Added to my post above :)
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RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
Hey Guys
Does anyone know if we will be able to get parts to rebuild the engine? I plan on running this thing hard and just rebuilding when I need to. BTW for those wanting to change the throttle servo out (if you decide to) I ran into problems becuase the clearance of the HiTec645MG Servo arm to the Servo body was smaller than the clearance of the STOCK servo. So what I did was sand down the plastic piece about 1/16th of an inch on both sides of the lower break shaft, so it would fit in there with clearance. I'm sure the other thing you could do is buy a part from an ofna or other car that has the front and back breaks connect to a seperate joint and then attach to the servo. Anyway - just wanted to post the workaround for it. |
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
Hey BGV.
I'm sure it's too rich. Turn the HSN out about 3 and ther LS out about 2 as a starting point. If you have a temp gun this helps too but use your ears too. If you had the HS lean at one point and the LS rich this could have given you your false reading on the Glowplug I think. |
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
OH - Hey Testy
I forgot to add don't judge them on the 1/10th trucks. Those seem to be problematic. But going through you won't find any reporst of problems (that I have ever found) iwth the 1/8th buggies. Also - remember a lot of times people buying these entry level cars are inexperienced so what seems like more trouble tuning, or basic things are actually just do to them being new giving it the since that they are hard to tune etc. |
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
HI Trpastor
I've been researching for about a week and what you said is exactly what I wished to hear..Its one thing for a salesman to recommend a car but it is another thing to hear it from an actual user. Thanks, I really, really appreciate it. Well I guess its off to the virtual shop for me to buy my new toy...YEAH!!!! |
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
Cool! looking forward to having another contributor to the forum. Post your questions issues here and hopefully we can all help with them and the knowledge base will continue to grow.
Let us know when you get it and how you like it. |
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
Don't pull the pull starter out anymore than like 8 or 9 inches. I broke my pullstarter the second time i tried to start it :)
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RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
ORIGINAL: trpastor Hey Buggygovroom- Yes the LSN is definitely rich. That is why it's in the first portion of the acceleration. Also 3 turns should be WAY too much. I believe mine is more at about 2 or maybe 1 3/4. The pinching the fuel line test works pretty well for figuring out your lowspeed adj, but be sure you are doing it close to where the fuel enters the carb. If you do it too far away it's just burning the fuel in the line. But I've found when you are doing it close it should take about 3 sec to die. That will get you close to where you need to be and then you can fine tune it later if you need to. They Testy- I can't say enough how good of a car this is. I am pretty new to the hobby but I do a LOT of research on things before I step in or recommend. I started with a smartech which has been fun and helped me get into the hobby cheap and see if I would enjoy it, I have an OFNA 9.5, and the Himoto Torpeda Pro (.27 engine). I can honestly say the Himoto has been the best of them. The OFNA I've had a lot of trouble with but didn't buy new, but I do have it going now and it drives no better than the Himoto. The Himoto has just as solid looking parts. The shock towers are thinner on the Himoto BUT they are the SAME size as on the Kyosho 7.5. I've flipped end over end (having it hit once bounce up 2-3ft, and continue to flip several more times) I've had it cartwheel 6-7 times in a row on a single spill etc and so on, and have NOT broke ONE piece. I know I'm due. Because I hear people with their $700 Hyper 7 and Jammin's breaking things eventually too. But so far I have not been nice to this thing at all and it has not let me down. A thing to remember (for everyone thinking of buying one) about the people who buy other cars and bash these because they don't' know about them. Imagine you just spent all this time thinking about buying a car. You went with one that was $500-700 because you weren't sure if another one was going to be good. So know you have your wonderful new car and someone asks about a $250 car and if it's good. Of course you are going to say !QUOT!no, it sucks!QUOT! and bash it because you have to rationalize your purchase to yourself, or you would feel like you wasted $250+. Finally on the flip side, are their better cars? Yes. For the money? I really believe no. For a little more money? Probably not. If you want to spend $700-$1000 then of course you will get a better car. As things lie in the subtleties, but when you're a newbie you don't even know yet what you are going to need. Great beginner car for sure and be sure to check out Laughing Potato's post about winnin 6th place in competition with his. This isn't just a bashing car if you know what you are doing. This was his first go in comp with a buggy I believe. Used it STOCK vs everyone's $1000 cars. Last 2 issues you asked about - Parts you can get fairly easily from several on-line vendors at this point and they are competitively priced (Most of the time my Hobby shop doesn't have the part I NEED and has to !QUOT!order!QUOT! it in for a week. I can !QUOT!order!QUOT! it myself without traveling to the shop). Lastly - I don't know yet about the Kyosho parts and others mixing because I haven't broken anything. When I do I'm going to see how the Kyosho stuff fits. I can say this - I was at the LHS and saw the 7.5 side by side and these things looked almost exactly alike. The front arms are different, but other stuff looked like it would be exact fit but I DON'T know yet. OFNA Wheels and tire nuts fit :) Good luck man - hope to see you in here adding info on what you can do with these things. It's growin all the time. Later |
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
Hey BGV-
That's cool. I'd love to see a pic if you can upload one or two. So does it sit differently now? How do the shocks and everything conduct on the new arms? I ask becasue the redcat/himoto's seem to bend down toward the tires at the end and the Kyosho's didn't. See photo Also - I'm assuming the "steering Knuckels" didn't fit as (from what I saw on the Kyosho) the upper and lower arm came in directly on top of each other, where as the himoto's are slightly off set (see image). Thanks for the input!! Send us a pic of this hybrid :) So do you think you could effectively "mix" pieces in the upper arms or would it have to be all or none?? |
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
"Buggygovroom"
As far as your pull start is concerned...I have a little trick I came up with after pulling my nephews too far and pulling the rope out..(it was NOT a fun task taking that recoil apart and fixing it!).. Anyways...what I do is when I go to start my buggy...I center my chest over the engine and lean in a bit so my hand will hit my chest after pulling the start cord out about 8 inches or so...after time it becomes second nature and it works like a charm!:D |
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
Buy an ofna starter box part number 10245. Got it for 49.99 and 23.99 for batteries. They fit the 1/8th. Just got one. :) no more pull starters breaking for me.
Also tuned up a traxxis revo today. A newbie was having a heck of a time. He paid 575 out the door. The little volcano, 2 something out the door took it on the start, and slowly the revo was catching up when it kicked into 2nd gear. The redcat did good. He was amazed. Now if I had the 1/8th (which is on the way) he would be in the dust all the time lol... |
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
LOL!!
You are gonna LOVE the Hurricane!...did you order the XL or the XP?? |
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
The front suspension was to twisted to use but it did screw in and would have been swappable if you used the entire front suspension. Part of the upper arms are swappable, and the little arms that move with the steering servo swap.. i believe they are called steering turnbuckles or something along that line. I needed one of those :)
In response to the pull starter, screw that.. :) i went and got a roto start the day the pull starter broke. I never want to ever recoil that stupid spring!!! =D I could use my friends bump box if my roto start battery dies, other than that i love the roto start. |
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
Ordered the xp.
ORIGINAL: Xeller8 LOL!! You are gonna LOVE the Hurricane!...did you order the XL or the XP?? |
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
Cool!...
Looking forward to hearing what you think of it. |
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
OK GUYS....heres one for you.....
My idle is not so idle!!!! Breaking in my Bazooka, (think is the same as Himoto, Redcat) I thought I would put my buggy up on blocks and just let the first tank run on idle, no acceleration! The first ten or so minutes are great, the buggy idles and the wheels do not spin at all. What happens after ten minutes is scary. Without touching the radio geer, even with all radio gear off, the buggy starts to accelerate by itself and continues to accelerate until it is at full throtle and smoke comes from the engine. I immediately pinch the fuel line which then takes at least 20 secs if not more to kill the engine, as this cannot be healthy. I played with the idle adjustment screw unscrewing it a 1/4 but does not seem to make a difference. Don't really wish to touch anything else until I get some expert advice. Any ideas anyone? Would really appreciate the help. Sorry if this is a stupid qestion. |
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
Hey Testy
Yes the bazooka is the same. As far as the issue - I'm really not sure - but Here is my best guess or beginning questions fo ryou Was it at the end of the tank of fuel? How long is your fuel line in inches and is it looped? Once? twice? When you take the air filter off what does the carb look like (the size of the opening)? Were you touching or messing with the car at all when it happend? My best guess would be this, but without more info I'm not sure. When the fuel line gets in more air as the tank runs out and gets air bubbles forming in the line it causes a "lean" speeding type of situation. It revs up but usually dies. the reason I asked about length of the tube etc is that if it was very long and was for some reason getting lots of bubbles before drawin all air, then it would have continued longer than normal. killing the engine in 20 secs by squeezing the line.. it just shouldn't happen. Either you were squeezing the wrong one (air line) or you just weren't holding tight enough. It should not be possible to take more than about 5-8 seconds at the longest I don't think. Unless you have a 18" ft coiled line and you were pinching at the beginning (so it was burning all the fule in the line). Let me know the answers to the questions and I may be able to help you get to the bottom. Nothing caused the throttle to move in anyway either, right? |
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
Hi Trpastor and thanks for the interest I appreciate it.. Ok
Was it at the end of the tank of fuel? Had about a quarter tank first time around and half a tank second time round How long is your fuel line in inches and is it looped? Once? twice? I'd say about 8 inchs prob slightly less and yes it is looped once When you take the air filter off what does the carb look like (the size of the opening)? The size of the opening is less than a quarter of the overall diameter. Were you touching or messing with the car at all when it happend? Was not touching at all..even radio gear was off. Either you were squeezing the wrong one (air line).... Damn..you can tell i'm a newbie....ok that won't happen again. Nothing caused the throttle to move in anyway either, right? Don't think so..I mean I was no where near the buggy both occassions. Its like it has a mind of its own. Does this help get to the bottom? Thanks again |
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
if you ever get scared again and can't get it to shut off quick enough, closing off the exhaust will imediatly stop the engine. i don't reccomend using this to shut off the engine all the time, but its the fastest way i know of to stop these engines.
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RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
Tashpop - good advice.... what he means is press your finger over the filter opening (you shouldn't really press the filter into it as it will push alll the dirt it was trapping through.
OK - Testy - which of these three would you say is most like what your idle looks like? Have you had a nitro rc before? What I'm thinking is happening is just that your idle is set too high with the other needles being very rich. When the engine is warming up it is causing it to run and start idling where it should be, but until it gets warm the richness of the other settings is keeping it from running at full idle. If you haven't owned a nitro RC you may be interpreting running a little higher as "full throttle". Full throttle with one of these things standing right next to it is freakin frightening. So I'm not sure if it was that fast. Just a little too much idle can make the wheels spin pretty good. If you put your car on the ground can you roll it back and forth or do the whells lock up on you? The only other thing is - there weren't any bubbles getting into the line was there? The idle should be a small sliver opneing in the carb. Maybe about 1/16". I'm thinking the idle is just a little off and the power of these things is making you think it was full throttle. The only way it would officially be full throttle is if that carb opening was full open (which shouldn't just rock loose or anything like that) Let me know if you have adjusted the idle and tried it at all. Remember to keep the piston BDC when cooling. |
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
You should never run your car with out the radio on. You dont know what the setting of the throttle is when it is off. Check your batteries in the reciever also. Tape them. If they come loose, you will have no control over the car.
ORIGINAL: testy OK GUYS....heres one for you..... My idle is not so idle!!!! Breaking in my Bazooka, (think is the same as Himoto, Redcat) I thought I would put my buggy up on blocks and just let the first tank run on idle, no acceleration! The first ten or so minutes are great, the buggy idles and the wheels do not spin at all. What happens after ten minutes is scary. Without touching the radio geer, even with all radio gear off, the buggy starts to accelerate by itself and continues to accelerate until it is at full throtle and smoke comes from the engine. I immediately pinch the fuel line which then takes at least 20 secs if not more to kill the engine, as this cannot be healthy. I played with the idle adjustment screw unscrewing it a 1/4 but does not seem to make a difference. Don't really wish to touch anything else until I get some expert advice. Any ideas anyone? Would really appreciate the help. Sorry if this is a stupid qestion. |
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
I was going to say the same thing...never run it without the radio gear on..
And also...."trpastor" spoke of "pressing your finger over the filter opening"...however he was mistaken..."tashspop" was talking about plugging the EXHAUST not the intake. |
RE: "OFFICIAL" Redcat Racing 1/8th BUGGY thread (not truck thread)
AHHH - that will kill it too eh? I know covering the filter will work very quickly but you run the risks I spoke of.
Yes - having the radio gear oiff is a bad idea but that doesn't eplain the issue (reving up) unless the vibration was able to push it open more and more Be sure to have it on :) |
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