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-   -   "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY (https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/redcat-racing-support-427/3775380-%22official%22redcat-racing-1-10th-buggy.html)

shadymarkny 04-11-2006 12:19 AM

RE: "OFFICIAL" Himoto / Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
Wow man.. thats a beautiful weather you got down there man... Lucky.. Im up in NY and things are just starting to get better... !! [8D]

Popper252 04-11-2006 12:26 AM

RE: "OFFICIAL" Himoto / Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
Haha yeah it has been a real mild winter down here. The water is already warm enough to jump into. Thank you global warming :D

shadymarkny 04-11-2006 12:33 AM

RE: "OFFICIAL" Himoto / Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
:) Finally someone agrees with me w/ the Globle warming... I tell people this and they are like.. yeah right whatever... I believe in that man.. weather has been really strange lately you know?

__________________________________________________ _____________________________

Volcano STX

Mark

chr0nus 04-11-2006 02:10 PM

RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
i recently purchased a tirnado xl, newbie of course. does anyone know how interchangable parts are. mainly the front a-arms. i've been looking into rpm's polynylon (whatever) a-arms for their warranty and supposed durrability. what measurements should i be looking for?

fun hawg 04-12-2006 11:19 AM

RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
HELLO IN MY POST ON THIS PAGE ON THE CLUTCH FIX I SAID THE CLUTCH SHOES AND SPRING WERE ST-15 THEY WERE NOT THEY ARE TOWER HOBBY PT. #LXTT54 AND ARE FOR A DURATRAX STREET FORCE GP CAR. THEY WILL ALSO WORK WITH THE STOCK CLUTCH AS WELL. THE SPRING DOES NOT BREAK AND THEY DO NOT WERE OUT THE CLUTCH BELL. THEY FIT RIGHT ON THE STOCK FLY WHEEL.

Firefighter7 04-12-2006 11:26 AM

RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
Well I finally got her running. The only problem I have now is it rolls on its own when I set it on the ground. I know that the idle is to high. So just to clarify the idle screw is the one under the air filter right? The whole clock wise and counter clock wise is looking from the front of the car towards the back correct? And to lower the idle I turn the screw counter clock wise right? Also how much fuel is to much spitting out the muffler? How long should a tank of fuel last? Sorry for all the questions but now that I finally got it running I want it to run right.... Thanks for the tip on the Glow Plug Starter I didn't have it charged up completely. Once charged completely how many starts should it last? Thanks for any help.

nitrosteve22 04-12-2006 11:40 AM

RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
Not sure on the glow plug question as I dont have a rechargable yet but yes counter clockwise will lower the idle which is the screw directly under the air filter. A little bit of fuel spitting out is ok you just dont want it puddling up if the car is in one spot. I get around 7-8 minutes out of a tank... Not sure if thats great or what but thats what mine does with a little bit of fuel spitting out the exhaust.

Firefighter7 04-12-2006 07:24 PM

RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
OK call me stupid but......I cant find the 2 screws you all are talking about to adjust the tranny. I have a Tornado XP so if any one can post a picture of where the adjustment screws are on the XP I would appreicate it.

nitrosteve22 04-12-2006 09:59 PM

RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
1 Attachment(s)
I cant remember exactly but one of these is to hold it all together and one of them is to adjust shift points. Slowly screw in clockwise first (so you dont accidently loosen the wrong screw),if it wont turn then its the wrong screw. The one to ajdust shift points has a spring behind it to keep it in place so if you start a screwin and it moves but with a little resistance then thats your guy. Counter clockwise will shift sooner,clockwise is just the opposite.

nitrosteve22 04-12-2006 10:12 PM

RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
1 Attachment(s)
Gotta say these little buggies are pretty tough... I was cruisin around in the grass in my back yard and got a good run but the brakes didnt stop me in time and I slammed front bumper first in to a cyclone fence gate post with enough speed and force that it pulled the exhaust pipe and rubber coupler right off the header! The pictures show the carnage,I'm still amazed it didnt brake anything aside from punching a small hole in the front bumper from hitting the front dif case so hard! Just loosened up a few screws along with bending the tip of the chassis so I can live with that. Hit hard to,really hard!

Finally after tearing the motor apart and gasket'ing the HSN sleeve,carb,back plate and pullstarter the motor seems a little more consistant and holds a tune a bit better. I tried the tunings found on the CEN website for there NX-18 and its a bit to rich,hard as hell to start and runs a little sluggish. Glow plug battery died along with my patience before I could get more than a tank and a half through it. It's close though,I had a blast with it earlier. Hopefully the weather wont be to bad tomorrow so I can finally finish tuning!... Stupid rain... Still blown away by how fast my little *under $200 bucks* RTR and how much crap it can take!

blackdogafd 04-13-2006 12:38 AM

RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
nice work nitrosteve!! its is funny how things didnt break with pix like that!!! thats kinda what happened to mine a few days ago. except i broke the steering arm and bent a frt dogbone

J5IVE 04-13-2006 08:41 AM

RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
Hi there...I have a 1/10 Himoto Syclone and was wondering where I could get aluminum parts for it. I'm very new to this but as much of you seem to already know parts can break easily (especially plastic at 40kms/hour) so I would like to upgrade certain things...like the front arms (me and buddy just had collision and his was destroyed...front brace on mine got bent...whew).

Any help would be appreciated...and sorry if there is already answers to this but this thread is like 11 pages.

Thanks,
J

TopSpeedToys 04-13-2006 10:40 AM

RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
Hi J5IVE,

I don't think the front arms are available in aluminum yet.
But we have other upgrades / Aluminum parts available.

Check it out...

http://www.topspeedtoys.com/Upgrade.html

Mark


Chubbysdad 04-13-2006 05:33 PM

RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
I think I will get hammered for saying this but honestly I think the Aluminum parts are a waste. I would rather the $5-$6 dollar part break when you crash, then have something else break that takes the impact instead. I am not here to start any arguments with other dealers, its just an opinion.

Popper252 04-13-2006 05:44 PM

RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
I'm for certain aluminum parts, Hubs, c hubs, steering arms, gears, should all be aluminum. A-arms on the other end I wouldn't consider. Simply because they attach to the chassis and i don't want to see that get banged up.

Chubbysdad 04-13-2006 05:46 PM

RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
Yes I agree with some of that also but I think the gears should be steel not aluminum. Too soft.

Popper252 04-13-2006 05:50 PM

RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
Yeah that's what i meant. I can't believe you didn't know i meant that. geez :D

nitrosteve22 04-13-2006 08:07 PM

RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
Ok,can somebody tell me if I'm getting close here? I took the LSN out till it was flush and have slowly leaned it in maybe 3/4 of a full turn (only 1/8 at a time of course) and the HSN is sitting somewhere between 2 1/2&3 turns out. It spits a little fuel at idle and has a healthy trail of smoke when gassed. Is a tiny bit sluggish in the low RPM's but winds up good,has a low somewhat smooth non eratic idle. But... It's also a total ***** to start hot or cold,my fingers/knuckles are sore as hell! When warming up from being cold it'll sit around 202F-214F and when raced a bit and then let sit to idle it'll back down to 215F give or take 5F degrees. When ran "mediumish" it'll stay around 250F but when raced it'll still go up to 270F-280F+ but not nearly as bad as the temp problems I used to have with this engine (it would run 280F-300F).

Maybe I'm not understanding something or what,but are those temps ok? I never used a temp gauge with my nitrohawk but I never had these problems reguardless of how I ran it but I was under the assumption that when tuned properly the smaller .15-.18's will run between 220F-250F but rarely go over... So what am I doing wrong here? If I richen it up anymore it refuses to start like it almost does now. If I lean it out the temps get worse and its still hard to start. It was maybe mid/high 60's while I was running the car.... The glow plug glows orange/red,the ignitor battery is brand new and the fuel (trinity monster %20) is super fresh so ***?!?

Any ideas? I just cant seem to get this right [&o] .

ehroof 04-13-2006 08:16 PM

RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
check this out, do what it says and watch the video, 2 1/2 out on high end, flush on low end to start then watch the video, it will explain how to tune, dont worry about the brand of car they are using, this shows how to tune a typical nitro engine.


http://www.dads-toy.com/tuning-part1.shtml then http://www.dads-toy.com/tuning-part2.shtml


sorry but this is easier then trying or keep typing this over and over

nitrosteve22 04-13-2006 09:15 PM

RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
Those sure are awesome,thanks a million! That'll help soooo much! I gotta bookmark those :D .

Thanks ;)

1500cc 04-14-2006 12:58 PM

RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
I've busted the right steering arm & door mount twice, and the left ones once. Both were from running into people. You'd think people would be softer or something. I've been lucky and CA glue has held everything back together both times, although I don't jump it anymore. But I decided to make myself a bumper out of galvanized steel to take some of the shock away from front-end collisions. I bolted it to the same holes as the stock front bumper, using small bolts that should act like shear pins.

http://www.hartin.com/misc/Bumper.jpg

Fortunately, I've not yet tested it in a real world situation :)

ehroof 04-14-2006 01:59 PM

RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
cool bumper, looks like you wont have to worry about front end collisions!!!!!

Popper252 04-14-2006 02:51 PM

RE: "OFFICIAL"Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
So how much for one of those bad boys in black? :D

shadymarkny 04-14-2006 05:05 PM

RE: "OFFICIAL" Himoto / Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
Awesome man.. I really needed to know that info. My clutch springs broke, and I took the clutch out and sorta fixed the spings. I noticed its kinda lose.. but I didn't care, I put it back into the car and drove around for a day.. The clutch bell was so HOT that it melted the diff. gear set. Thats why I had to ordered a new sets.. Basically I found out that the clutch was engaging the bell the whole time and made it really hot. I was woundering why my car kept want to go foward even when I am holding on the break it was still going.. Damn so right now I am waiting for new clutch and new diff. gear sets to come..

Firefighter7 04-14-2006 05:22 PM

RE: "OFFICIAL" Himoto / Redcat Racing 1/10th BUGGY
 
Ok guys I got my engine running, but the only part that I need some help on is.... When its running I have to hold down on the breaks or else it will just take off on me(even then it creeps forward a little bit). But if I lower the idle adjustment the engine wont stay running. So how do I keep it from rolling off on me while idleing and at the same time keep the engine running? Thanks for the help.........


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