joeskeeter

My Feedback: (4)

I was kidding about a baby being in the wing room, when I was gluing.
Was my grandson's crib and we haven't moved it out of there.

joeskeeter

My Feedback: (4)

Wing pics.

MrGreenSpeed

Your wing profile is looking good [8D]
Can't wait to see You maiden it . Hurry up........LOL!


Jeff

joeskeeter

My Feedback: (4)

The goofy stuff just keeps coming.
Turned a whole dowel into scrap having to remake a pushrod for
the motor with a dowel.
Read where you need the wood dowel and can't use carbon fiber since the rf
finds the carbon fiber.
Then put 2 nylon clevises on the rod and neither clevis is  holding, guess I opened and closed them too many
times in trying to set up the rod.

If that wasn't bad enough the gas tank was now in the way of the non flxible dowel since the earlier pushrod I was going to use was a flexible
length of stainless welding rod that was able to bend to clear the tank.
So a little task turned into a whole gas tank redo. I had to rip all the epoxied foam out and came up with a 2 mill coro holder that is
now in TRUE SPAD TRADITION TIE WRAPPED TO THE FUSELAGE, EEEEEYARGH!!!*@$$^&*$%^&*!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! pant pant. hyper ventilating !!!!!

PatrickCurry

My Feedback: (20)

My first SPAD was a Debonair.  I quickly found out that the biggest obstacle to overcome in building a SPAD was problem solving!  LOL  Everyone talked about how easy it was to build a SPAD and EVERY task I encountered became an entire mini-series in frustration just like your pushrod issue.  They're getting a LOT easier now though as I'm getting my techniques down.    Couple more and I should be able to knock one out in a night or two like so many folks do.  It's looking good Joel, stay with it.  As frustrating as it is, the first time you see that hunk of plastic lift off it'll all be worth it.  To see something you built out of scraps fly so nice...... it amazes me every time!  

MrGreenSpeed

I agree with Patrick, the first few spad builds help develop some problem solving skills.
The more Spads You build the easer and quicker they are to build.

BTW ( when possible ) I mount My throttle servo on the back side of the firewall with 2 sided tape and a piece of guitar string cinching it down tight, & I use a short piece of very thin music wire with 2 "Z" bends if the carb has a plastic throttle arm or a piece of bicycle spoke with a "Z" bend & a plastic clevis if it's a metal arm.
Getting the servo lined up just right and cutting the wire to the exact correct length can take a few attempts.

Keep at it Your getting closer to air time.

Jeff [8D]

Villa

Hi JoelStolarski
In your last post you mentioned two things I would like to address. You mention that carbon fiber will absorb the RF signal. Your implication is that the signal will then not reach the receiver. This just is not the case. I have carbon fiber and aluminum all over my plane. It is recommended that you keep metal ( I assume also carbon fiber) at least one inch away from the antenna. I do that and have never had a problem. The second item is the use of nylon clevises. Just about every kit I ever built came with these clevises. It is only natural to assume that if they provide them, using them is OK. After I lost a SIG pattern plane, and a SIG J3-Cub, and positively identified the cause of the crash that the elevator clevis had open in a dive, I stopped using the nylon clevises on everything except the throttle. I frequently see others using a short piece of fuel tube over the nylon clevis to prevent it from opening up. I used to do that also, until I remembered that I occasionally have to replace a fuel line because the end has split. So, the end of the fuel line splits occasionally in service, but people still use it to keep the clevis from opening???? When the fuel tube is stretched over a clevis, the tube must be stretched much more than in fuel service. I only use Sullivan all metal clevises with a locking clip. They cost much more than the nylon clevises, but since I can use them from plane to plane, they may even cost less in the big picture. I have also used a heavy duty Dubro plastic clevis that has a sliding lock, that costs even more. Hope to see you flying that big plane soon.

joeskeeter

My Feedback: (4)

It's down to doing the hatches in the wing to install the servos for the ailerons and bolting the motor in.

I'm going to diverge a little here and touch on psychology of rc and trying not to get too deep.

Appreciate the hints, replies and words of encouragement alot.

RC is fun for some reason and i don't know why.

I'm happy with the plane and it's looking a little raggedy because of where it's been.
Roy's shop was a truck repair shop so she got a bit dirty along the way.

I'm thinking about naming the plane , still debating on what for now.

joeskeeter

My Feedback: (4)

joeskeeter

My Feedback: (4)

Tore a 1/4 inch gash in my thumb last night
and I can't find where the skin went in the work area.
Would of super glued it back on.
 And made a little damage on aileron,
patched this morning.
Servos in hatches looks good, do some pushrods and
do the center strip for the wing.

MrGreenSpeed

[X(] OUCH! [X(] Makes Me cringe just hearing that. I hope it heals up quickly.
Super glue comes in handy from time to time.
Sounds like Your making good progress on the wing too.
Villas hatch method is a cool innovation in Spad building technique.

To Me, their is almost nothing better than seeing a plane You have built from scratch take to the air and fly
Jeff [8D]

joeskeeter

My Feedback: (4)

Put the wing on it to see how it looks.
about a quarter size of the living room.
sure looks big now.
Greenspeed, I was improvising a drill tool to cut some holes,
had a 3 inch piece of pushrod in the dremel and
I cranked the speed up on my old variable speed dremel,
and it went to wobbling, and instead of turning it off, I increased the speed by accident and the
pushrod bent into a L shape and the tip of the pushrod hit the finger.
I was more upset about the gash in the aileron.

joeskeeter

My Feedback: (4)

Villa's hatch .
I'm behind the curve, why didn't I glue the middle
strip on before I did the hatches?

Telemaster 56

Joel.. what are you using for glue?

Thanks..

Gord

MrGreenSpeed

I believe He said E6000 glue.

Jeff [8D]

spaceworm

Made by the makers of Goop.

Richard [8D]

joeskeeter

My Feedback: (4)

Glued most according to Kraut's plans.
Wood to wood Devcon 5 minute epoxy, but only because Lowe's has it for cheap,
their 60 minute is $14.95.

The Goop I like and I used it on hor elevator and rudder , aileron just about all coro to coro.
The aileron servos are glued as per Villa's instructions, CA'd to hatch and tie wrapped, I'll get some better pictures,
since housefrau hid the camera, so I have to borrow the camera and take pictures in stelth mode
and return camera to hiding place so it's tedious if you guys know what I mean !!!!!


The E6000 and all goops I noticed ripples the coro if put on too thick.
The E6000 seems to be different from the regular Goop,
but it doesn't say what on the label.
I should have looked at the msds, but I am so overwhelmed by the plane,
being out of work, and due to the overwhelming popularity
of this project with the housefrau, that I just can't devote any energy to anything else.
Had to shut down extraneous diversions and just focus on the plane almost to the exclusion of
anything else, and also to keep from getting sidetracked.
The Devcon msds I did look up and it has a trade secret ingredient that isn't listed. It is very strong bonding stuff,
and I used it only after I tried it once.

I am ready to put the pvc aft and forward doublers on today and I
am having the worst time figuring where to start on lining up the holes and lining up the holes to
hit the right place on the fuselage.
i think I can get the wing onto the drill press but this is going to be a lot of setup to drill 4 holes.

draftman1

looking good Joel
just remember, spads are "simple" plastic airplane design

keep it simple! dont try to over engineer it.

joeskeeter

My Feedback: (4)

I have kept it simple but mistakes I made before creep up in the form
of having to redo past mistakes or get to a tough spot and then not know how to
solve the problem, then ruminate on the solution.
For instance I did the wing holes had to do a little different angle on the front holes
lowe's doesn't have 3 inch long nylon bolts, longest is 2 inches.
So now I have nylon all thread coming so I'll put the steel ones in to see how it looks and feels
with the plane put together.
I'm shooting to finish aileron control rods.
Had to put new wood on the fuselage to meet the spot I drilled the wing holes.
contol rods today,
Drilled tapped the holes for the wing holdown and then put ca down the holes as per the plans waited a few hours and ran the tap to clean the holes,
hit Lowe's this morning thinking happy day to get a couple of 3 inch nylon bolts, and then had Lowe's order the 1/4 20 all thread rod 2 feet .of it
and it wasn't expensive , but it wasn't free, but I took a bunch of screws I wasn't using so Thank God it wasn't costing me any more money
for that.

goofy is still happenning can't ca well but a piece of my foot got ca'd to the floor
and when I went to get up
not knowing I was glued to the floor it was a big surprise and painful.

joeskeeter

My Feedback: (4)

Another rainy day in this place.
so this is more of a help poat, that is,,if it posts.
I have tried to post pictures and they are not uploading.
Motor has not been run.
What should I do?
have gas and best mix I could find is pennzoil.
Don't have a clue where to get amsoil unless I order it.

PatrickCurry

My Feedback: (20)

I think we've all been there one way or another. I still cuss every time I shoot something with kicker that's (unbeknownst to me) glued to my hand..... that gets hot in a hurry. LOL

spaceworm

I don't want to start another oil war, but I would use the Pennzoil Air Cooled blend (not the water cooled engine mix) at 1:32 oil to gas. Many others would do the same.

Sincerely, Richard

joeskeeter

My Feedback: (4)

I just looked at the bottle, you know
it's a little yellow bottle and all it
says on it is air cooled motor oil.
It's like what I use in the weedeater, but
on it I just use Lowe's brands or Echo brand.

I didn't know there is a blend. does that come in a larger bottle or same as the
small weedeater bottles?

All we have here, in the onion capital of the world, is Autozone ,o'reilly's and advance auto and one old fashioned
style auto parts store.

So i'll just figure out how to mix the 32:1.
Should I turn the prop to lube the engine before turning on the ignition?
I don't see a choke like is on a regular weed eater.
I choke the throttle intake with my hand?
I'm in the dark here guys so not trying to stretch this thing
out but I'm in uncharted territory here.

spaceworm

Yes that is the right stuff. Just make sure it says for air cooled engines. The 2 stroke oil for water cooled engines like outboard motors is different stuff. Echo oil is good stuff also. Lowes is probably OK, but don't know who makes it.

1:32 mix is 4 ounces per gallon. I don't mix a whole gallon cause I don't use that much and it does go bad. Some people use Stabil in their gas, to keep it fresh, I don't.

4 ounces per gallon is 1 ounce per quart. I mix a quart at a time in a quart motor oil plastic bottle. I rinse the bottle out with gasoline before I use it for my RC engine or weed trimmer fuel mix. I use the little measuring cup that comes with kids liquid medicines. i don't use it for their medicine after using it for fuel mixing.[:@]

Most engines like it really wet before they will start. Cover the intake and turn the engine by hand with the ignition off until you can see or feel fuel in the carb intake. This will prime it and the oil in the fuel will lube it.

If you flip it by hand to start it, use a very heavy glove or preferably a chicken stick. Others can help you with starting your particular brand engine. Some like to be flipped back against compression, others flipped normally.

Good luck, it sounds like you are about to "commit aviation".

Sincerely, Richard

joeskeeter

My Feedback: (4)

Feel more like I'm close to commiting nervous breakdown.
Did a search for a blend yesterday and found some Lucas synthetic blend air cooled mix, and
I would imagine the Lucas is pretty good.
You see the Lucasoil products decals on alot of racing cars, so I got a bottle of that too.

My brother in law, Mike and I went down to the flying field about 3 weeks ago, and the field has been kept up and mowed and
is in beautiful shape. We walked the entire field and walked both runways.

As far as we could tell it does not look like anybody has been flying rc.
No plane parts litter anything.
Can't afford the $35 drive to a field in Statesboro which is about an hour away.
Even the old field is a long drive and I'm in pretty broke state right now.
One option mike's looking into, is one he knows someone that has a runway on their property and
that's close by so if he gets a hold of him we'll go there to fly.


(Been trying to post pictures since Thursday, and they upload but don't progress to
the Finished screen.)