Register

If this is your first visit, please click the Sign Up now button to begin the process of creating your account so you can begin posting on our forums! The Sign Up process will only take up about a minute of two of your time.

Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 26 to 50 of 146

  1. #26

    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    271
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    i am sure you remember me emailing you several times asking for the plans. it was well worth the wait. i think they are very good. and we all appreciate your efforts deadeye.

  2. #27
    Moderator Deadeye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Dutton, MT
    Posts
    4,515
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    Let's start on the fuse!

    Take your 1/4 aircraft ply (not lite-ply) and make a firewall. If you already have an engine and motor mount picked out, you can drill the holes for it at this time. It's easier to do it now than when it is on the rest of the frame. Use the thrust line measurement. The cennter of the prop should be on the thrust line. A 1/8 inch or so off shouldn't effect anything, as long as it is centered in the firewall side to side.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Qo41443.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	24.0 KB 
ID:	67854  
    Randy Rossmiller, member, Golden Triangle Flyers
    Theres no such thing as too much power. Member, Club Saito
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #52

  3. #28
    Moderator Deadeye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Dutton, MT
    Posts
    4,515
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    Now onto the front half of the wooden interior, the key to the Cor-Star's exceptional strength. The pics should explain themselves. Use epoxy on the LG and firewall block. Make two halves identical to each other. Constant width is 3 1/2".

    After your epoxy sets up, you may opt to fibergalss the LG block. This may or may not be neccesary. I think as long as the block rests on the blasa, you will be fine. The coroplast will absorb a lot of shock from the landing gear area, because once the balsa frame is glued into the coroplast, it's got tremendous shear strength.

    I have included a pic of the finished wooden interior. Ignore the rear pieces for now, as they won't glue in until after you have fitted the front interior half into the coroplast fuse area. Once this is established, you will have your angles set for the rear half of the wooden interior (more on that later).

    (Don't worry about the wing blocks in the wooden interior at this time. We will cover that shortly)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Jh16726.jpg 
Views:	12 
Size:	29.4 KB 
ID:	67856   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Gb90341.jpg 
Views:	13 
Size:	46.7 KB 
ID:	67857   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Va73042.jpg 
Views:	16 
Size:	43.6 KB 
ID:	67858  
    Randy Rossmiller, member, Golden Triangle Flyers
    Theres no such thing as too much power. Member, Club Saito
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #52

  4. #29
    Moderator Deadeye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Dutton, MT
    Posts
    4,515
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    Still with me? Now comes one of the hardest coroplast cuts yet. This is where plans or an existing Four-Star comes in handy. As luck would have it, the 4* is a straight shot from the front of the top of the fuse, clear to the tail. In other words, ignore the turtle deck, and it sits at 90 degrees to the firewall (0 degrees thrust). This also makes it a sinch to glue the tail and get 0 degrees on the tail feathers (which will be covered later).

    Cut a piece of coro 50.5 inches X 15 inches. The flutes run in the 50.5" direction. This is slightly bigger than the actual fuse, but the rest will be trimmed away. Remember how the wood interior is 3 1/2 inches wide? Remember that. 4 mil coro is about 1/4 thick, so that width combined with the 3 1/2 inch wood makes the Cor-Star fuse 4 inches wide.

    Find the center flute of the piece you just cut. It helps to mark each flute with a pen as you count, and marking each 5th flute in case you lose track. Bright lights are helpful with this. Once you have the center flute marked, draw a line the whole 50.5 inch length. This line is a reference for the rest of the fuse building, as well as for lining up the tail feathers. Use a permament marker if you want. This line will remain on the inside of the fuse, so mark away.

    From the center of the center flute, measure out 1 3/4 inches on each side. Mark these lines with a marker as well. Make sure your frame will fit in the flutes that are marked. These lines represent the fold of the fuselage to form the sides. Hopefully you will end up on the edge of a flute, but different coro measures different. The centerline will be used for all subsequent measures.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Om34161.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	23.1 KB 
ID:	67867  
    Randy Rossmiller, member, Golden Triangle Flyers
    Theres no such thing as too much power. Member, Club Saito
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #52

  5. #30

    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Aurora, OH
    Posts
    86
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    Sorry Deadeye,

    I replied to the wrong post. I meant to post to your previous posting!

    ===============================================

    Hi Deadeye,

    I'm not quite clear on a few things:

    Could you provide a dimension, either from the front or back, as to where the landing gear block goes (in your first picture)?

    Also, in your first picture it looks like the bottom, near the firewall, goes up. Is this right? If so, how much, etc.

    Do you have another side view of the fuse frame as it sits on the coroplast? This might help me understand the first picture.

    Anyway, this is really good! I have been thinking of purchasing the 4*60 and building it over the winter. But, I have left over coroplast from another SPAD, which did not work out. The fact that it's made out of 4mm really helps out, as I cannot find 2mm around here!

    Thanks again!

  6. #31

    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Clifton Springs, NY
    Posts
    1,787
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    Hey deadeye,

    You are really doing a great job with this instructional. I have been checking all afternoon for updates. I too like the fact that all coro is 4mm. I have more than enough to complete this project and will start mine as soon as I can sneak it in on the wife.

    I have an MDS .68 out of my first SPA3D. Do you think this will power the coro*?

    William
    William McClooney

  7. #32
    Moderator Deadeye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Dutton, MT
    Posts
    4,515
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    FlyBlueSkies, I did forget that dimension, it's 6 inches from the firewall. That does curve up slightly by the firewall as well, and you might want to wait until the fuse is cut out of coro before making the curve. It doesn't really matter much. This ain't rocket science!

    Novabillss, yes that 68 should do just fine. My Saito 100 hovers it. My bushinged OS 60 flew my first one with authority, and it was 1 1/2 pounds heavier than the one you will be building!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Vt58478.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	30.4 KB 
ID:	67900   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Pn35328.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	32.1 KB 
ID:	67901  
    Randy Rossmiller, member, Golden Triangle Flyers
    Theres no such thing as too much power. Member, Club Saito
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #52

  8. #33

    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    271
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    hey deadeye, do you have a side veiw of the wood structure for the forward section of fuse. before the coro is on. just so we can see the yardstick gussets on the firewall. thanks again.

  9. #34
    Moderator Deadeye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Dutton, MT
    Posts
    4,515
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    Yes, gr8, I do. Sorry I didn't get a chance to update today. A network crash kept me busy all day long at a client's workplace.

    I have pictures that I will upload sometime tommorow. I'm catching myself up on the steps. I'm finishing up another one for a club member (I'm at the fuselage stage) and will be completing it in the next 5 or so days. I'm going to be posting everything here during that time, so as not to forget anything. It's just easier to do it this way, instead of relying on memory.
    Randy Rossmiller, member, Golden Triangle Flyers
    Theres no such thing as too much power. Member, Club Saito
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #52

  10. #35

    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    271
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    sounds gr8. looking forward to the next chapter in this page turner. i am sure it will be a popular read.

  11. #36
    Moderator Deadeye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Dutton, MT
    Posts
    4,515
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    Sorry for the wait guys. I hope I haven't left any of you in suspense!

    Before you do this next step, build yourselves one of these. Really helps for removing one side of a flute. Like I mentioned earlier, it's easier to cut the fuse if you have access to a 4*, or plans for one. These following pics roughly show what to do.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Ec88362.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	44.2 KB 
ID:	68451   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Wr56241.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	33.6 KB 
ID:	68452   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Ze86732.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	49.5 KB 
ID:	68453  
    Randy Rossmiller, member, Golden Triangle Flyers
    Theres no such thing as too much power. Member, Club Saito
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #52

  12. #37
    Moderator Deadeye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Dutton, MT
    Posts
    4,515
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    Once the fuse is cut, try wrapping it around your front half of the wooden frame. You can use the flutes to line up your firewall angle, which should be 90 degrees to the flutes. This gives you 0 degrees of incidence. Now you can take the 2 inch balsa stock, and get your angle for the rear half of the wooden interior. Use the whole 36", as it will be trimmed later. Take some 3 X 1 1/2" 1/8 lite ply or the like to make a gussett where the two balsa stock pieces butt together.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Sq47527.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	36.4 KB 
ID:	68454  
    Randy Rossmiller, member, Golden Triangle Flyers
    Theres no such thing as too much power. Member, Club Saito
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #52

  13. #38
    Moderator Deadeye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Dutton, MT
    Posts
    4,515
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    Now your talents will be challenged. You need to make a template of the wing's airfoil to cut the wing saddle. Use heavy paper, draw and cut. You want 0 degrees of incidence on the wing, so draw a centerline, and get your wing saddle position. The LE of the wing should be about 7 1/2" - 8" (depending on the weight of your engine) from the front of the firewall. If you don't get this cut perfect, have no fear. A few degrees of incidence can be corrected by shimming the motor mount.
    Randy Rossmiller, member, Golden Triangle Flyers
    Theres no such thing as too much power. Member, Club Saito
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #52

  14. #39
    Moderator Deadeye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Dutton, MT
    Posts
    4,515
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    Plywood braces. These next two pieces serve as the landing gear block, and forward wing bolt reinforcement. They are made of 1/4 inch ply. Cut two pieces 3 X 6 1/2 inches.Lay them in the LG block, keeping the edges square where they meet. Trace your airfoil, and cut it out of the ply. Cut a 45 degree angle off right above the Fornt of it by the LG block, back. The following pic shows this gussett. Yours will not have a notch cut out above the airfoil like this one. The reason I did it like this on this one, was because I experimented by making my wing bolts farther apart than I originally stated. This left no room for the 1/4 ply reinforcement, so I cut around the wing blocks.

    When you are happy with how everything fits, epoxy both sides to the inside of the fuse.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Li21074.jpg 
Views:	5 
Size:	24.0 KB 
ID:	68467  
    Randy Rossmiller, member, Golden Triangle Flyers
    Theres no such thing as too much power. Member, Club Saito
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #52

  15. #40
    Moderator Deadeye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Dutton, MT
    Posts
    4,515
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    Forward wing blocks!

    I used to pieces of basswood, each about 1" square or so. Drill a 1/4 inch hole in the center, running with the grain. Take them to your bandsaw, and cut a curve in one hole end. This curve should match the airfoil, so use the wing saddle for reference. Test fit them with 2 1/2 inch long 1/4 inch nylon bolts (assuming your wing holes are drilled). When you are satisfied with the fit, insert 1/4 blind nuts on the opposing side. Now measure from the outside of one wing block to the other. Will it fit in your 2 1/2" interior? If so, test fit the wing. If not, sand away the outside edges (the edges that will glue to the fuse) until it does. Keep your wing centered on both sides. It's easy to get 1/2 inch off or more, so sand a little, and check.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Us54266.jpg 
Views:	5 
Size:	19.0 KB 
ID:	68473   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Ql33361.jpg 
Views:	5 
Size:	28.3 KB 
ID:	68474   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Kp32874.jpg 
Views:	5 
Size:	22.1 KB 
ID:	68475   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Ha78871.jpg 
Views:	5 
Size:	21.5 KB 
ID:	68476  
    Randy Rossmiller, member, Golden Triangle Flyers
    Theres no such thing as too much power. Member, Club Saito
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #52

  16. #41
    Moderator Deadeye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Dutton, MT
    Posts
    4,515
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    Test fit often. The next step is to epoxy the wing blocks in. Use a piece of waxpaper so you don't glue the wings to the fuse. Make sure you are fitting your saddle tight, and have everything lined up square. I wrapped a piece of duct tape from the TE of the wing, throught the fuse, and taped to the firewall. Take a square and lay it against the LE and the fuse to make sure its 90 degrees. Use clamps to hold the blocks while the epoxy dries. Take note that my blocks are a bit different than yours for the aforementioned reason, but this gives you the jist. You may opt to glue in some additional triangle stock for gusseting the wing blocks or laying 1/8 ply between them (like a sandwich), but it's not necessary.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Gd93794.jpg 
Views:	10 
Size:	33.9 KB 
ID:	68480   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Ie97996.jpg 
Views:	10 
Size:	38.6 KB 
ID:	68481   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Af89804.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	28.8 KB 
ID:	68482   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Jd86942.jpg 
Views:	10 
Size:	31.7 KB 
ID:	68483  
    Randy Rossmiller, member, Golden Triangle Flyers
    Theres no such thing as too much power. Member, Club Saito
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #52

  17. #42
    Moderator Deadeye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Dutton, MT
    Posts
    4,515
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    Some more
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Ca82604.jpg 
Views:	8 
Size:	58.7 KB 
ID:	68484  
    Randy Rossmiller, member, Golden Triangle Flyers
    Theres no such thing as too much power. Member, Club Saito
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #52

  18. #43
    Moderator Deadeye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Dutton, MT
    Posts
    4,515
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    Rear wing plates.

    This is the same dimension as the LG block, only not as wide because it will fit inside the assembly, and inside the 1/8 lite ply where the balsa stock butt joins. Get this plate glued in and gusseted with balsa triangle stock.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Qo39953.jpg 
Views:	5 
Size:	34.8 KB 
ID:	68487   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Gb90706.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	24.1 KB 
ID:	68488   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Jh14980.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	24.0 KB 
ID:	68489  
    Randy Rossmiller, member, Golden Triangle Flyers
    Theres no such thing as too much power. Member, Club Saito
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #52

  19. #44
    Moderator Deadeye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Dutton, MT
    Posts
    4,515
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    Cut a 2" thick piece of pink foam to 3 1/2 X 5. Notch out the sides so it will snugly fit in the wooden interior, straddling the 2 inch blasa stock.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Lj22965.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	21.4 KB 
ID:	68491   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Ni24495.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	29.3 KB 
ID:	68492   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Wb74534.jpg 
Views:	3 
Size:	25.9 KB 
ID:	68493  
    Randy Rossmiller, member, Golden Triangle Flyers
    Theres no such thing as too much power. Member, Club Saito
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #52

  20. #45
    Moderator Deadeye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Dutton, MT
    Posts
    4,515
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    Notch out the foam, so about half of it will slide over the rear wing plate. Don't glue it in yet.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Ec87351.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	16.8 KB 
ID:	68494   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Je10098.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	24.9 KB 
ID:	68495  
    Randy Rossmiller, member, Golden Triangle Flyers
    Theres no such thing as too much power. Member, Club Saito
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #52

  21. #46
    Moderator Deadeye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Dutton, MT
    Posts
    4,515
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    That's as far as I am right now. The next step is the servo rails. These can be any design you want. I placed my servos just ahead of the rear wing block. Then we will epoxy (fuel proof) the fuse. We should be able to cover all of that tommorow.
    Randy Rossmiller, member, Golden Triangle Flyers
    Theres no such thing as too much power. Member, Club Saito
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #52

  22. #47
    Moderator Deadeye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Dutton, MT
    Posts
    4,515
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    OK, guys, still with me? I'm hoping some of you have NOT decided this is too complicated and moved on. It's really not that bad. It was only my second coroplast plane, and 3rd built plane.

    The following pictures show the servo rails, secondary fuse former, epoxied fuse, etc.

    As mentioned before, the servo rails can be any design you want. In fact, the plastic trays that Futaba makes work really good, plus, you can mount the switch in the tray, leaving just a small wire sticking out of the fuse to turn it on/off.

    The secondary fuse former is optional. It is not neccessary, but it gives the hood a nice curve, plus a nice place to grab the plane to start it. Use the upper half of your firewall as a template. Glue it along the top of your wood interior. Use foam, wood, foam/wood, whatever, I've used 1/8 ply, 1/4 ply, and (like the pic) 1 inch foam with 1/8 ply laminated to both sides.

    Thin some epoxy and fuel proof the INSIDE ONLY of the wooden interior. Try not to get too much on the side that will mate weith the coro, as the epoxy will prevent the poly glue from soaking into the wood.

    PS, the last pic shows the motor mount mounted. Make sure you fuel proof the firewall before you mount this.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Wu61816.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	20.5 KB 
ID:	69257   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Cx74528.jpg 
Views:	5 
Size:	23.5 KB 
ID:	69258   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Hm23281.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	23.7 KB 
ID:	69259   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Bv60434.jpg 
Views:	6 
Size:	41.0 KB 
ID:	69260  
    Randy Rossmiller, member, Golden Triangle Flyers
    Theres no such thing as too much power. Member, Club Saito
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #52

  23. #48
    Moderator Deadeye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Dutton, MT
    Posts
    4,515
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    You can drill and mount the rear wing plates whenever. The wood won't splinter as bad if you do it after you fuel proof. You can then just drop epoxy or CA on the nuts to hold them.

    Same goes for the landing gear. I went to the local Ace hardware and bought some 1 1/2 wide aluminum, 1/8 thick. They bend like 99% percent of the dural gear out there. The fuse mount is 4 inches, the angled sides are 6 inches, and the axle plates are 3/4 inch. Use whatever design you want. I like using nylon bolts on the gear, as they will snap long before you break any wood.
    Randy Rossmiller, member, Golden Triangle Flyers
    Theres no such thing as too much power. Member, Club Saito
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #52

  24. #49
    Moderator Deadeye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Dutton, MT
    Posts
    4,515
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    Once you are sure you have all of the wood work done, you can prepare the coro fuse piece for glue. Wipe off any dust with water. Flashing is not neccesary, as the woodpeckering will change the surface enough mechanically.

    Woodpecker the inside of the fuse wherever it will meet the coro. You can lay your frame in there and draw around it. Precision is not neccessary, and some may opt to pecker the whole inside. Make suere you also run a width of peckering along the rear half of the fuse where the coro meets coro. You should also peck the outside of the wooden interior. At this time, you can poly glue in the rear fuse former.

    Mist the outside of the wood with water. Mist the inside of the coro fuse with water. Apply poly glue to the coroplast wherever it meets the wood. Too much poly is better than not enough. Try not to get it on your fingers, and smudge the outside of the coro fuse.

    When you have the glue the way you want it, slip the wood interior in place and clamp. You can use the wing saddles to keep everything lined up, or leave the wings mounted to the wood frame (use waxpaper between wing and fuse). You have 4 or so hours before the poly glue sets up.

    The first pics shows the poly glue applied to the coro, then the wing bolted to the frame with wax paper in between, and finally the coro clamped in place.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Vs55529.jpg 
Views:	5 
Size:	32.6 KB 
ID:	69263   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Je10573.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	51.2 KB 
ID:	69264   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Ns43701.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	33.0 KB 
ID:	69265   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Ke92071.jpg 
Views:	13 
Size:	41.4 KB 
ID:	69266  
    Randy Rossmiller, member, Golden Triangle Flyers
    Theres no such thing as too much power. Member, Club Saito
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #52

  25. #50
    Moderator Deadeye's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    Dutton, MT
    Posts
    4,515
    Gallery
    My Gallery
    Models
    My Models
    Ratings
    My Feedback

    RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics

    Starting to look like an airplane, eh? Make sure you haven't glued the triangle shaped rear fuse pieces yet. All you want glued in the rear fuse is the wood to the coroplast.

    Once the fuse is dry, it's time to finish the rear half of the fuse. Flip the thing upside down, and clamp to a table. Clamp it so the front half of the fuse hangs off the table, and the rear half can clamp flat. Mist the inside liberally with water, and apply poly glue. If you are good with poly glue, thats all you should need. If you need a gap filler, use some balsa stock or foam (like I did). You can mask tape the rear half of the fuse to keep glue from running out, and to help hold it in place. Then simply clamp wherever you think it needs it. Gaps are OK here, and it doesn't need to be a perfect job. DO NOT glue the wood together at the rear of the fuse yet. That will be glued when we glue in the tail.

    The last pic shows an experiment where the firewall meets the hood. I did this to seal the cut flutes used to form the curve in the hood. I took a dixie cup, poured 1/2 inch water in it, dribbled about 15 drops of poly glue in the water and waited a half hour or so. The poly glue expanded big time. When it was like peanut butter (use a popsicle stick to check) I dribbled that glue where the pic shows. Worked like a charm, and I will use that method on other planes, whenever it is necessary.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Ig12038.jpg 
Views:	12 
Size:	46.2 KB 
ID:	69269   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Fa84862.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	46.8 KB 
ID:	69270   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Ch96347.jpg 
Views:	9 
Size:	34.0 KB 
ID:	69271  
    Randy Rossmiller, member, Golden Triangle Flyers
    Theres no such thing as too much power. Member, Club Saito
    Ultra Sport Brotherhood #52


Page 2 of 6 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:28 AM.

SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1 ©2011, Crawlability, Inc.