acam37

My Feedback: (16)

the measurements are off the plane and have not been increased. It flies just fine the way it is but you know the nature of spad building; it can always be improved. On this plane though I'm going to leave well enough alone. The fuse and tail is all 4-mil with bamboo skewers added for strength, and the wing is all 2-mil, with 4-mil ailerons. It is covered with sign vinyl except on the wings the sign shop did'nt have any scrap white so I remembered another post saying that vinyl shelf paper will work. So I went to wal mart and got a 20 foot roll for about $6. After about 10 flights with engine oil coming over the wing it is still on so I guess its going to stay.

Throttle

FrankC29 "I just can't agree with this one..." What is it that you can't agree to? That in my experience it is the first Spad to fly like a real balsa airplane. If you don't believe me I'm sure there is nothing I could say to change your mind. Or do you believe that no Spads can fly like a real balsa airplane? Do to the extra weight of Coro. planes I use to believe this until I flew acam37's plane. I belong to two RC Clubs as does acam37 the test pilots at both clubs which flew acam37 plane said the exact same thing. " This is the first Spad to fly like a real balsa airplane." Their flight experience cover about 60 years. One of them has been building Spads back from the time you had to be a paying member when Spads first start out.

FrankC29

You keep saying "real balsa airplane". As opposed to what, "fake coro airplanes"? I never understood the whole "real" thing. This SE is a beautiful Spad, one of the best I've seen. But it is not the 1st to fly as well as a balsa plane by any means. Maybe for you, but I don't know what you've been flying. Sorry to sidetrack the thread...

acam37

My Feedback: (16)

I could really care less if it flies like a balsa or not. I just liked the lines of the SE and the way it flew so I set out to copy it as closely as possible in coro. It just so happens that it flies good also. I did post the plans as well as I could because thats what I understand part of spadding is, which is sharing plans and ideas. My only concearn it that because no two spads will fly exactly alike because of different building tecniques and slight measure miscalculations, that someone out there will build one and get the CG wrong or something else and then trash the design all over the forum just because theirs did'nt fly good. I've seen it happen on other tried and true designs. This plane is by no means meant for the newby spad builder. It took 3 versions to get one to fly the way it is meant to.

FrankC29

You can say that again. How many times have I read that this Spad or that Spad flies like crap, only to find out that the builder didn't follow instructions or used woefully inappropriate materials. There's not much you can do about it except shrug and nod your head. Folks with common sense will see right through it, thankfully.

acam37

My Feedback: (16)

the latest drawings and a revision on the aileron specs. this is the actual aileron measurement that I finally used.

Omaha_RC_Flyer

acam37,
Thanks for all the new drawings. I just order 6 sheets of Coro yesterday, 2 and 4 mil.
I have been designing a Spad pattern plane. But I believe the design will
have to be put on hold until I get this one made.

Thanks again,
Omaha_RC_Flyer

FrankC29

Acam, one of the things I am going to do with the Spad site over the course of the next few months is to have a section of non-original plans added to the server, popular ones that are often requested like the Spazzler, Sickle, etc. The drawing you are making are excellent. If you ever decide to supplement them with detailed build instructions, I would love to add this one to the site. Just something to think about, thanks.

Omaha_RC_Flyer

acam37,
Is there any reason why you mounted the servos on top of the wing rather than
the bottom? How did you mount them in the wing? What size is the wood used
in the inside of the fuse for the sides? I'm assuming the flutes are running the length of the chord
on the wing. Is there any special way you folded the wing to get the symmetrical airfoil?
Do you use the traditional flash and glue method for coro?

Sorry for all the questions I just want to build it right.

Thanks,
Omaha_RC_Flyer

Throttle

Frankc29 I though you might find this of interest. Cajun1 is I believe the one who did the test flight of acam37's plane but I could be mistaken. I do know he flew the plane and was one of the two test pilots I referred to in a earlier post.

"Cajun1
Registered User


Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 2

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Acam might be a novice at flyng RC, but this plane is the work of a master craftsman. It not only is the best looking Spad I have ever seen, but also the only Spad I have flown that flies as good as or better than a well built balsa model. And I have built and flown most of the Spad designs that have come down the pike. I've also flown the original kitbuilt Something Extra.

The plug-in wings are ingenious and nothing on the plane gives away it's plastic heritage. It appears to be a well covered built up design.

This plane belongs in the Spad Hall of Fame.

Cajun
Nacogdoches, Tx"

Now back to acam37 thread. The end

Zombie

It's already there. See the bottom of page 2 at [link=http://spadtothebone.com/showcase.htm]Spadtothebone showcase[/link].

Congrats on making the showcase, acam37!

acam37

My Feedback: (16)

Omaha, heres the answer to your questions. The servos are on top because it is my preference only; you can put them on bottom. I just got tired of tearing them up and stripping gears on my many not so perfect landings which by the way also took the gear off. the wood inside the servo bay is just light pine molding I got at lowes. You can also use thin plywood. I wouldn't use balsa because it is too light and the wing plugs will eventually work the slots loose.

On the wings if you cut out the coro like in the diagram and line up the spar on the lines you will end up with a symetrical wing. the trailing edge should join tgether perfectly.just sandwich the aileron between the two. You have to be patient building the wings. to keep the spar from moving on you I suggest you glue the bottm first and let it dry overnight. you can also glue the aileron to one side

I prefer to use welder glue which you can get at just about any harware store but Wal Mart carries it an it is cheaper there. It makes the building process a little longer but I have have the best luck with this adhesive. Especially the tail area where I really goop it up to get a good bond. Just use it like contact cement.

You can check the spazzler plans on Frankc29's new website to get a good photo decription of a symetrical wing design. It is actually done in 4 mil which is a little harder to bend but that is where I got my plans. It also shows the coro spar.

Omaha_RC_Flyer

acam37,
Thanks alot for the info. I will probably start building it early next week.
I'll take my time as to not screw up. I will post more questions if they arise
during the build.

Thanks Again,
Omaha_RC_Flyer

Omaha_RC_Flyer

acam37,
I will try and take photos of my build process and post them on this thread,
if that's cool with you. Let me know if not and I can send them to you for approval,
since it is your design. It may help others who want to build one.

Omaha_RC_Flyer

FrankC29

Throttle, your opinion is different than mine, and that's cool. I have no intention of getting into it, with you or Cajun or anyone else. Really, I think this is a great Spad and will one day hopefully make a good addition to STTB. Like the SpadStick, it will be a great choice for those that want great performance along with great looks, while maintaining Spad construction techniques.

acam37

My Feedback: (16)

OMAHA, post away

Throttle

Acam37 congratulations on your plane making it to the Spad Hall of Fame. I'm glad that there are those who appreciate what you have designed. I'm thinking of putting my Sato 72 on the one I'm going to build. Again Congratulation!!

Quicker

Omaha_RC_Flyer:

I'd put the servos on top of your wing. The way you fly, you'll go through at least $100 worth of servos by the end of the summer!!! I'd also make the landing gear out of 1 thick inch aluminum!!!



Quinn

Cajun

My congratulations to Arlie for making the SPAD hall of fame with his SpadExtra. Any of you guys looking to build a great looking and super flying plane would do well to consider scratch building this one. Just use your very best building skills.

Frank, I like your idea of posting on the Spad site some of the forgotten, worthwhile Spad designs. The Sickle is one that many of us really enjoyed several years ago, both as a combat plane or a fun Sunday flyer. I have looked for the plans for friends, but since Grim Reapers web site is gone, I have not found them. This design set the standard for really FLAT,, flat spins.

What happened to the Grim Reaper anyway?? He used to be an active Spadonian and was an able designer.

Cajun[8D]

Throttle

Frankc29 I'm cool. Just flew my new Super Deb. yesterday and had a blast. Have a great day.

FrankC29

Grims site moved a year or two ago, but he didn't really announce it anywhere, and he hasn't been active in the hobby (or at least this part of it) for a long time. You can find his site here, though:

http://home.earthlink.net/~tnttong

Cajun

Thanks for the info on Grim's site. I see he still has the plans for the Sickle posted. It's one of the best Spads for club combat.

Cajun[8D]

grumpE

My Feedback: (6)

Quicker,

At least Omaha gets to fly these days

Just joshin

I tried to get you both up for the re-engined 4* tests but you both were out. May need to scam some coro and build this little honey. Wife gonna be GrumpE with me in the garage all the time.

Anyone think of scaling up or down? Have a few engines that could use a new home but either smaller or larger than would be correct. I am thinking a bit smaller with a TT 40 Pro.

Eric

Omaha_RC_Flyer

grumpE,
Do you think scaling down by 1 inch on every measurement would work?
Not sure if it would, anyone know? I got some of the materials needed for
the build yesterday. Wood for spars 1/4"x1 1/2"x2' $0.66 ea. and
for the inside of the fuse 1/4"x4"x3' $1.68 ea. (both poplar and will have
to be trimmed down) and polyurethane glue 16 oz. $12.93 from Lowes.

Did a test piece of Coro last night per Deadeye's instructions on the
Corostar 60 thread. In three hours I could not pull the pieces apart. I
have changed my technique for gluing Coro. Thanks Deadeye!

acam37,
Anymore hints or tips or photos for this build that you haven't already
mentioned or posted would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks,
Omaha_RC_Flyer

Quicker

Oh, I get to fly, but only over lunch hours right now. If I would not have found that field by my office I'd be stuck flying my electric foamy 10 minutes each night before dark, just after I get the kids and wife to bed.

That 40 should work if you build it light enough. Might not have much left to pull out of a hover.