-pkh-

My Feedback: (2)

I'm a SPAD newb, but after building two SPADs, I've come up with a few building tips I thought I'd share (I haven't seen them posted elseware)...

1) If you have a hard time getting CA glue to work to glue the wing (like I did), I've found 6 minute epoxy works very well. I rough up the coro with some steel wool and then clean it with some alcohol or mineral spirits.

2) PVC dust is a problem when using a dremmel cutoff tool to trim the fuse. You should wear a mask or respirator to keep from breathing it in while your cutting. A cheap dust mask will work, but those fog up my glasses, so I bought respirator, meant for spraying paint and pesticide, at Home Depot. They come with different filter types filters for different prices. The respirators with the cheapest filters will probably do for PVC dust, but I got the more expensive ones to filter out paint fumes too (for use with my airbrush as well). The other thing I did to help minimize airborn dust while cutting PVC was to make my own air filter out of a 20" box fan and a 3M "Filtrete" air conditioning filter taped to the back of it. I crank the fan up on high, set it right next to where I'm going to cut (filter side towards me) and it sucks most of the fine PVC dust into the filter. I also use this setup when I airbrush, and you can see the paint color show up in the filter!

3) Sharp, pointed sheet metal screws are used everywhere on a SPAD. In some cases, a sharp point is not desireable, though, like when it's near your gas tank, servo leads, or anywhere else it can get easily caught on on something. While you can use a dremmel cutoff tool to trim the sharp point off, I've found that a small pair of bolt cutters does a nice job of trimming them down to size and removing the sharp point. I got a small pair at Home Depot, about the size of a pair of pliers. I screw the sheet metal screw in with the point, first, to tap the hole, and then use the bolt cutters to trim the end off. If you line the cutters up to cut between the screw threads, you won't mess up the threads, and you can still screw/unscrew the trimmed sheet metal screw.

4) An automotive hose clamp works well for mounting a 540 motor/gearbox setup to the front of a PVC fuse! I can post a pic if anyone is interested in the details...

KyFBCGuy

Great hints!

I have been going through the gluing delima lately trying to decide which glue to use on the wing for the Debonair project
im working on now. I am leaning towards the 30 min epoxy route right now, just for the added working time.
I may try the CA route first, and see how tha tholds
I have heard of guys using "gorilla glue" also on coroplast. It is supposed to work ok from what i have heard.

FighterBird873

I learned building the Flik, glue is not needed. I used some hot glue to temporarily hold the wing down, but zip ties are the main structual connection. I used three on the trailing edge. One in the center, through both sides of the wing. And one in the middle of each half. It helps to have a tool to pull them tight. For the winglets, I used twist ties from an old box of garbage bags. I did some pretty substantial testing too. At one point, I clipped a tree trunk with with center of the wing. The only result, a really neat flat spin. Not even a dent!

-pkh-

My Feedback: (2)

I think 30 min epoxy and Gorilla glue will take too long to cure for gluing a wing, at least for when you fold it over & glue it. If you have some clamps or a jig to hold it in place, I guess that will work. I've been making wings with the 2mm coro on top, which has to be held firmly in place while the epoxy sets, or it will pop up/open. I hold the folded wing in place for 6 mins or so while it sets, while making sure the fold is even, the airfoil is shaped the way I want it, and that the coro is seated firmly against the epoxied wing spar. I wouldn't want to have to hold it for 30 mins or more! I think they make 10 & 15 min epoxies, which might be a good compromise. I cut the top wing coro in half and glue half the wing at a time, that makes it much easier to spread the epoxy and get it positioned properly before it sets. The 6 min stuff seems to have a long enough working time and a short enough set time for me so far.

voyager_663rd

check out my webpage in my sig. Has a download of gluing tips from the original spad site.

bobo_54501

My Feedback: (19)

Wal -Mart Welder glue on the spar and 3m super weather strip adhesive on the trailing edge .Put your glue on . Push your parts together and then pull them back apart for 5 to 10 minutes to let them flash the solvents off . Then stick them together and clamp or weight them down 5 to 10 minutes and its a done deal .To make it totally indestuctable cut small PVC backing plates 6 per wing .Run a screw threw a backing plate then threw your coro and then into the backing plate on the bottom side of your wing . Do this 3 places on each side of your wing and she will never come apart short of a zillion MPH collision .

petergomes

Dear ALL,

For gluing purpsoe,pls use rubber based soluion,Let me express what this glue looks like & its normal application,this glue is brown in colour & smeel of petrol,very sticky like liquid jelly,

Use & application :for sofa,to stick shoes,lether product,seat cover for vehicles
work :very great with Coro,
INDIAN BRAND :FEVICOL sr 998 & just cost 2$ for 100ml(more than sufficient for 3 to 4 model
how to use it :Apply a thin coat of rubber based solution on both surface let it dry for 5 minutes & stick it.

For your own self confidence in this product,pls test a sample,pls stick a small pieces ,may be tail portion-rudder or elevator & try to rip it upart,
It will rip apart but notice the amount of strenght required which than much of strenght is not required for model.

believe me this glue is also availabe in all country only the brand name would be different-check it out


just my 2 cents
peter

-pkh-

My Feedback: (2)

Sounds like ShoeGoo here in the US...

I've never tried it on coro, but I've glued SC cells together with it to make batt packs, and I've used it to glue PVC pipe together to make a simple RC submarine. It seems like it should work well for gluing coro wings, but the curing time may be a problem if you can't clamp the wing while it dries. It does cure to a pretty strong bond within 15 minutes or so, but stiff coro folded over may pull it free before it's fully cured.

If anyone gives ShoeGoo a try... let us know how it works for you!

petergomes

Hey Buddy,

You dont have to really worry of about the clamping part ,it just does not require any sort of clamping,you just need a helping hand to adjust/alinge both part to stick & that it,press hard enough through out where glue is applied,

pls clean both surface vof any oil or dirt,apply shoegoo (rubber glue) to one side & do the same to the other side ,let both dry for atleast 5 mintues & then stick together.Great Bond.

Inorder to remove the glue from coro,all you have to do is take petrol (fuel)& just drip inbetween coro,wait for 5 mintues & take a cloth & rub the systhetic rubber solution.You can still use

great glue for coro,CA .

pls keep me posted on this glue

Time Pilot

Sound like contact cement. I've not built a SPAD (yet) but have bonded two pieces of coro together with it and then tried pulling it apart. Very strong bond.

-pkh-

My Feedback: (2)

You say you don't need clamping, huh? What type of wing are you making? What is the thickness of the top coro and which way do your flutes run, chordwise or spanwise?

If you're just folding over 4mm coro with the flutes running spanwise (creating the "angled" airfoil), I might buy that... but if you are using 2mm coro and folding it with the flutes chordwise (creating the "smooth" airfoil), I doubt you can get away without clamping it. Folding 2mm coro with flutes running chordwise requires a pound or two of down force to hold the back edge down (since the coro is flexed/stressed, and wants to return to it's flat shape)... ShoeGoo would probably hold it for a short time but I think it would ultimately pull itself up.