koopster

When using poly glue with coro, the instructions often say to wet it with water. Do you just lightly spray the poly after it is in place, or do you wet the coro first. I have been trying with LePages Pro Bond, and have been having no luck what so ever. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Flight: that short season between building and planting.....

DeBearSteve

Koop,

I use "Elmers Pro Bond" polyurithane glue. If you spray water on it it will expand about 2 or 3 times. If you mix it in a cup with water and pour off the excess water, it will expand about 10 times. It should foam up even without adding water. Woodpecker both surfaces of coro for a good bond, and let it stand unmolested for twenty four hours.

DeBear

koopster

DeBear,

Thanks for the advice. I had wondered if I should put little holes or "woodpecker" it. I had also "molested" it after about 4 hours.

I will let you know how I make out...in about another 24 or so hours.....

Koopster

rsieminski

Why not just use CA? 24hrs, the airframes usually only take about an hr or 3 to build. What's the advantage to poly glue?

koopster

I am building one of Ben Billing's Snowmasters, and he calls for poly in some of the joints. I guess it is likely for waterproofing, maybe extra strength. I also wanted to try something other than CA, just to "broaden my horizons" I guess.

Koopster

BIGTOE

I think poly glue is cheaper then ca.

CapnG-RCU

Poly glue fills gaps nicely . . . . CA dosn't

Poly makes great big fillets too. Kinda like epoxy . . .

It's an over-nighter though

Pjtg0707

I use an old windex bottle filled with water to spritz the mist on where I want the poly glue to stick.You don't want to soak it in water; just a mist will do.

Part of the curing process of the glue is water. It will absorb moisture from atmosphere as it cures, but you can help it along by a light mist of moisture.

koopster

Just unclamped it after 24 hours, and low and behold, it is all set up and the joint seems real strong and secure. I will be picking up a woodpecker today, and that coupled with the water mist tricks should give me about as strong a joint as I can get.
Thanks to everyone for their insights.

SPAD: The nicest community to live in......

Koopster

DeBearSteve

Rsieminski,

I use poly glue mainly on my coro fuselages. Mainly on the firewall, landing gear plywood, and formers. When I glue the sides to the top and bottom I run a bead of poly, and then clamp the fuselage together with CA and kicker. I then let it stand for 24 hours. I do use it on wings, but a wing can easily be made with all CA joints.

DeBear

koopster

I had thought of using CA and an accelerator along with the poly, but was not sure if I would end up with some sort of weird (adverse..) chemical reaction. I will definitely try that on the rest of the fuse though. Thanks.

Koopster

hardheli2003

I used DAP contact cement on the only wing that i was able to build.I've made about six with no luck but the one that i made with the DAP seems to hold very well and sticks on contact.I made the wing in about 3 hrs using old Pepsi signs turned out very good.

hardheli2003

Daryl

One of the strongest TE's you can build is with poly glue. With all contacting surfaces woodpeckered, wiped down with a wet rag, then smear on the poly glue, then a board and weights on top. In about 6 hours you can handle it just fine. The water accellerates the curing of the glue.
: It also makes nice fillets around the rear of a firewall in a coro fuse, as well as for attaching the tail feathers to a coro fuse with nothing else than poly glue. Glue on the hor stab, then the fin/rudder, with "L" brackets, also poly glued on - or hot glue. I do both. For hot glue, I try to get the amber coloured glue sticks. The stiffer the sticks, the stronger and higher heat the glue stands.

hardheli2003

Where can i find the Elmers Pro Bond Poly Glue and is the poly glue better than the (DAP CONTACT CEMENT).I've looked at Lowes and they do not carry it.If the poly glue is better than the Dap it must be some very very good glue.

Thanks

koopster

I got the Elmers Poly in the craft section of Wal-Mart.



Koopster

gr8johnson3

hardheli2003, did you still flash the coro before using the DAP. does any one know this?

hardheli2003

Yes i did flash it, but a guy that has built many of these told me that he does not flash his.He said that he cleans the coro with mineral spirits then spreads about 1" wide of the DAP lets it sit for about 15 to 20 mins.in at least 68deg..Then when you stick it it's stuck very good.Then to the next step.You should be able to build the wing in about 3 to 4 hours if you work steady.This is the only way that i have been able to build a good wing.Try it works.

Thanks to all

Daryl

When using the poly glue, be certain to wodpecker the surfaces to be bonded, then wipe them down with a wet rag (my method).
: The surfaces are placed on top of one another, shifted for alignment, then I use pieces of maple, 1" X 2" X 3' on top of the coro, and weights on top of that. I freely admit this takes time to cure, unlike hot glue, contact cement or CA.
: What I like about the system, is that by the time the wing is cured, everything else can be already made and set up with radio gear. The wing is the final step, with the aileron controls, horns, linkage and servo.
: The glue 'joint' is very strong, and will not separate with minor impacts or heat. Major impacts will damage the plane or other parts of the wing, but not the polyglued surfaces.
: Slitting the 4 to 6 flutes you intend for the leading edge, wetting those flutes down with water, then squeegeeing polyglue into the flutes prior to bending the top wing surface down and glueing the TE, will give a very atrong, nicely rounded leading edge. The tail surfaces are glued together as expressed above, and when all it set up, you may then run your spar down the spar lines, gluing in that spar with CA. This will give a perfeclty symetrical wing, with a nicely rounded LE.

hardheli2003

I got some of the pro bond poly glue and i am going to try it on some scrap pieces of coro.I got a woodpecker and i'm going to peck it then glue it and see how that holds.I might make another wing using it if i like the way it works.I'm not sure what you are talking about on the LE as far as the slitting goes.

Thanks

hardheli2003

The name of the glue is called (DAP WELDWOOD CONTACT CEMENT ORIGINAL)do not get the one that says (GEL)on it.I've heared it does not work as good.I get mine from LOWE'S.This stuff is tuff try it.

Thank you all