My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
#51
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
What I was suggesting is a one piece fuse-coro- it won't split from nose to tail. I didn't see the piggybacking tank idea sorry but probably not necessary and adding to your grief.
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
I appreciate the ideas. I am going to fix this one and then make another spare out of coro. I just thought it would be cool idea to add a secondary tank. Guess it had more drawbacks then it had benifit. Now I have a spare 2 oz. tank. Any ideas of what to do with it?
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
Will a 2 oz. tank. I will only be able to fly for about 30 sec. unless I put a very small motor. Any idea what size motor to use?
You bet your a#* I will fly the snot out of it.
You bet your a#* I will fly the snot out of it.
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
Don't know, don't fly anything that small :S
an .061 I'm told. I have nothing under .25 right now-and recently got those, b4 that nothing under .40
an .061 I'm told. I have nothing under .25 right now-and recently got those, b4 that nothing under .40
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
I stand corrected Guinea13. I'm sorry to hear of your crash but at least you didn't blow up your fuel tank in the nose-in. Just think of how much knowledge you gained from building this Spad. Your next one ought to be excellent!!!
I used to fly Funbats and they came with 2 ounce fuel tanks for the recommended .15 size engine. You get about 5-6 minutes of flight on that size tank and engine.
I used to fly Funbats and they came with 2 ounce fuel tanks for the recommended .15 size engine. You get about 5-6 minutes of flight on that size tank and engine.
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
A motor 1 ft. into clay sounds like a very high speed dive. If the elevator stopped working, it may have been from flex? I use popsicle sticks on either side of the coro, and bolt the control horn through them. The control surface works no matter what the speed then. Just a thought. Glad to hear it flies! Feels great to build from scratch doesn't it?
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
As far as control horns, making them the full width of the working control surface area (Ron/elevatr) helps alot in stiffening them up!
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Don't understand? How do you make a control horn the full width of the working control surface. Would that add alot of weight?
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NO you cut a pvc control horn aboue 1 1/2 oinches long, whatever your surface width is. I'll ssee if I can find a pic.
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
Don't you want to keep the horn part itself over the bending point to help with bending. I read an article that said you should keep the part where the pushrod connects just over the bending edge on the elev, ailer, etc...
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
when you dont need a pic, it slap[s you in the face, sorry still looking -ChrisSpad has one, it was his original idea.
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http://www.rccombat.com/forum_2000/t...,control,horns
Noted Chris pic the control horns at the center of the rons.
Noted Chris pic the control horns at the center of the rons.
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
In most of the pics I saw the pushrods were connected on the bottom of the horn. Wouldn't it have more throw if you put it closer to the top?
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My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
Also, I haven't had any flutter problem but am think of cutting the ends anyway. Do you know how much to cut, what angle should it be cut at?
#75
My first SPAD - checking to see if design will work
In most of the pics I saw the pushrods were connected on the bottom of the horn. Wouldn't it have more throw if you put it closer to the top?
Also, I haven't had any flutter problem but am think of cutting the ends anyway. Do you know how much to cut, what angle should it be cut at?