mclina

I guess I wasn't quite done spadding yet. I have always wanted a Stryker, but I am too cheap to buy myself one. I came across the Mugi plans and just had to try one:

http://www.mugi.co.uk/evo_intro.php

I have it set up with an old 400 brushed motor, 12A esc, and 7 cell NiCd, which may or may not fly it. I am waiting on replacement shafts for a brushless motor I have with 25A ESC and 3S LiPo. That ought to get her flying. It was a really fun build, only took a couple of hours. I hope it is as fun to fly. I may try one with fan fold foam next time.

draftman1

very nice Mclina. that should be a wild plane. you gona fly it tommorow? great job. I guess thas going on my build list.

mclina

This motor setup won't fly it. Not even close.

I have a Towerpro 2409-12 (I think) that I salvaged from my short-lived Cub ARF. It has a bent shaft, but I have new shafts and a new motor on order from Hong Kong. That setup has a ton more power and is lighter.

The shipping from HK is wicked slow, so don't hold your breath for a flight report.

arsenic0

My Feedback: (2)

You know whats funny? I got my 2mm coro yesterday with the plan to build a Mugi tonight.

I already have had 2 FFF mugi's, awesome plane. 1st one died to letting a friend fly it, he crashed it into a fence and due to it being my first build i had to make some changes to the plans on the front to fit my battery and he was able to snap the front off.
2nd one was a much better construction, but on Saturday i hit one of the light poles at the field i fly at coming in for a landing..was more or less fine after some glue. What took it out of contention was my friends Stryker when i challenged him to a round of contact combat..he tagged my wing hard and ripped my right elevator and it spiraled to its death. We had been trying to hit eachother for many days with no real success although we had a ton of close calls I only challenged him because my planes about $3 in foam and glue to his $70 dollars in prefab foam parts

I could still probably fly it the FFF is pretty resilient, but its pretty damn ugly now with gorilla glue all over the place on the front holding together like 7 different cracks of various magnitude...

I had always planned to build a Coro version, since i hear they are more resilient i hope they are right!

Oh my FFF(And coro) mugi will be powered by a 2408-21, 18A ESC, 6x4E APC Prop and a 1800mAH 3S1P. It works great, its not as fast as my friends inrunner 2200kV but its so much more maneuverable, he has to take fairly wide turns where as my FFF planes could switch directions in a matter of feet. It really flew like a dream, with insanely fast barrel rolls so much so i almost nosed it in since i lost track of top and bottom after doing 5-6 spins in 5 seconds.

arsenic0

My Feedback: (2)

Oh and here's a good way thats documented on how to attach a TP type outrunner to a evo...
http://asifyougiveadamn.blogspot.com...r-on-mugi.html

mclina

Hey Arsenic,

Where do you set the CG on your Mugis? I have my rebuilt TowerPro motor mounted, and with my 3S 1550mAh pack as far forward as it will go, I am balancing about 1" aft of the spot shown on the plans. I already cut some coro off the back to move the motor as far forward as I could, so now I am looking at adding weight to the nose. I would like to add as little as possible.

I can't wait to give this thing a toss. The new motor really has some push.

Thanks

mclina

Here it is with the motor mounted and some nickels taped to the nose. It's balanced pretty close to the plan cg.

I made a motor mount out of some yardstick scraps. It seems solid enough.

The sketchiest part of the whole deal is the battery hatch. I just put some tape on it for now. If it flies well, maybe I'll come up with a better design for it, maybe add a cockpit bubble or something.

I should be able to try it out tomorrow.

draftman1

wow, that looks great, how was the flight?

mclina

I don't know what my problem is with deltas, but it didn't go well. I gave it a sidearm toss at full throttle, and it went straight to the ground. No damage, but one of my solder connections came loose from a Dean's plug, so that was it for the day.

I spent the rest of my time flying my 4* and the low wing plane that used to be my SPAD biplane. I was planning on tearing that thing apart after the biplane didn't go so well, but that plane is just a blast to fly. It flys pretty much like the 4*, except it floats less on landings. I think I may try mounting a video camera on it.

I have also converted my Gnat to electric tonight. I can't wait to see how that works out. I used the same power system as the one on the Mugi.

draftman1

well bummer about the mugi. it sounds like a little balance problem. it also sounds like you came up with a real nice low wing plane with the topless bipe.

arsenic0

My Feedback: (2)

I realize this is late but whatever now that i got my Coro mugi finally in the air.

I marked the CoG right where it is marked on the instructions.

Then i hold my thumb and index finger on either side of the dot along the underbelly support and see how it balances, i usually do it a few times to make sure its not my fingers causing it to go forward or backward. Its pretty obvious when its really far off it just falls off your fingers.

Im using a 1800mAH battery, and and a 45g(2408-21T is 51) motor so the weight difference is negligable.

I push the battery all the way up as far ass it goes, i use the motor mount from the link i posted above and it works pretty well although i had to shim it upwards slightly due to my shoddy construction.

Its really hard to throw though, i finally have started to figure out the tossing technique. If you look on youtube or the internet you can find some videos of the Mugi creator hand launching by holding onto the tip and flinging it over his head which works pretty well after some practice. They are great slowfliers once you get them in the air, but getting mine to glide very far with no power is very difficult(probably because you will always induce some type of sideways twist unless your really good).
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujXEnntZkjM
He does make it look super easy though, and its not. I spent a good 30 minutes nose diving and pancaking my plane into the grass...i finally started to get it down a bit last night. The plane is very rugged though, so the only damage i had to the plane was some mud stuck to the nose which i can just wipe off...even after a good 15-20 nose dives/roll overs(hitting the fins)/etc it held firm.

Oh and i modified the hatch, i never liked the way it worked on my FFF Mugi's. Its now 1 flap that comes downward toward the back of the plane, i just securely attach about 2-3cm up front by the nose doubler and fold it up and cut out a hole slightly smaller than the cover. Makes it easier for me, and in the event the tape does come undone during flight the air going over the top will holding the hatch down..

joe_weisman

That launch technique looks like a good way to get a close haircut. Careful guys!

arsenic0

My Feedback: (2)

Its definately not easy to hand launch, but the plane is so resilient it can really take quite a few nose dives.

My plane literally has death spiraled 3 or 4 times from 50+ feet up and you couldnt tell.

The easiest way i have found is to give it good throttle, for my particular 1900kV brushless & 3S1P thats about 70% or more, then i move my left hand over to the right stick and chuck it and level it out/pull it up with my left hand then once its good i pass it over to my right hand and start trimming if necessary.

Oh and for the hatch i found a really good way to close it. Use a spare piece of pushrod. The flutes in the hatch should be going across === the hatch, so you can simply slide a piece of pushrod or two through the flutes across the entire hatch and it will never come out just due to the fact that the hatch(or atleast mine) tends to put pressure upwards trying to open up which keeps the rod in place even during some bad crashes. I got really tired of having to retape the hatch in order to get the stupid thing to stick down after crashes, inevitably it would always pull open and grass or other dirt would get on the tape making it useless.

Now i just need a bigger field to fly at, the one im at now is pretty large but on the far end just over 1200feet away or so is a very busy 4 lane highway. So i cant fly it too high, or too far away from me, as i don't want to cause several thousand dollars in damage or manslaughter with my $100 in parts plane.

I recently bought some colored tape off fastpack.com too and decorated my mugi, ill see if i can take some pictures.

emeraude

Handlaunching a Mugi can be a bit tricky,what you can do is cable tie a square balsa stick underneath the forward section .This way any one can launch it by holding the stick with two fingers with one finger behind the stick .When launching loosen the grip of the two fingers and give a firm push with the the one behind the rod, u cant go wrong with it. Here is an image of the underside with the stick attached .

TARIQ

first i want to know that , what is the weight of dry mugi evo ( without anything ) with spar ? 2mm coro sheet , as per plan wingspan is 31.5 inch ,

my mugi evo weight with spar is 252 gms ? is that correct weight ?


i have built a mugi , but i my mugi evo weight is 609 gms with every thing , is that correct weight for mugi ?

and as per plan the weight around 450 gms ? some tell how can i get that weight



i am using 2200mah 3 cell lipo 192 gms
9 gms servos ( 2) 18 gms
jr receiver 20 gms
esc and motor 120 gms
mugi evo wt 252 gms
push rod 8 gms
-
610 gms
-

and if i want to use 1800 mah battery lipo that weight is 162 gms , so then my mugi become tail heavy ,


so i need some about weight , speicaly the mugi evo without any thing weight ?


thanks

m.tariq