ajvpb

My Feedback: (3)

I got goop as recommended for Chris's 540 edge. This is my first spad, so I'm a newbie as far as what glues you can and can't use. I know the material list calls for goop, but on the back of it it says it can't be used on foam, and goes through a list of many that start with poly. I know a polymer is a chain, so since the styrofoam is a chain along with the coroplast, could it damage the coroplast? Basically, is it safe to use the goop on coroplast with the styrofoam warning.

Second question:

I am using robart hinge points, and I would really like to use 30 minute epoxy on them. However, the instructions say to use the goop. Can I use 30 minute, or will it not bond well with the coroplast? Thanks

Alex

ChrisSpad

the goop is only used to hold the wing into the fuselage, and the hinge points in.
30 minute epoxy will work fine for the hinge points, but, goop sticks better.

Do not use goop on foam. Polyurethane glue works well for foam to coroplast. Read all the way through the instructions, and i think you'll find that i described how to glue the spar to the wing.

ajvpb

My Feedback: (3)

Yes I did read all the way through and I do have poly glue for that purpose. So, then just to make sure, I should use the goop for the hinge points, right? Also, with the elevator torque rod, is that used so that you only have to hook up a control horn to one of the elevator halfs? If so, will a 2-56 pushrod work well? Thanks for your help and thanks for taking the time to put up your plans.

Alex

ChrisSpad

goop, ca, or epoxy will all work with the hinge points. I prefer goop, but, all will work.
A 2-56 pushrod isn't nearly stiff enough. I think i used 1/8" music wire. It'll twist out of tight loops if the wire isn't really stiff, and yes, its done that way so the elevator servo only connects to one half.

Kripto

Chris,
I am also just finishing up your 540 Edge, What did you use to connect the 1/8 music wire to the servos and control horns. I am powering it with a .46FX what prop should I use?

Thanks
Ed

ChrisSpad

nothing connects the two. The 1/8" wire connects the two halves of the elevator, nothing more. The control horns connect the servo to the elevator.

Propwise, i like the 11.5x4 apc.

Kripto

My mistake, I thought you were talking about the pushrod. I thought that was a bit thick and couldent understand how you would get clevises that size... lol, im not that stupid..

P.S. I love your big CAP, any plans yet?

Ed

ChrisSpad

lol. well, i wasn't sure. The spadwalker actually has a piece silver soldered to the torque rod that the clevis hooks to. But, the servo is inside the fuse, not outside, so you can do that on that plane, but not on the edge.

The giant cap is a one off bird. If i made plans for it, it'd take me 6 months, and be near impossible to follow. Plus, i built it a couple of years ago, and, were i to do it again, i could save a ton of weight. So, no plans for the cap.

ajvpb

My Feedback: (3)

1 more question, where would I get 1/8 music wire. It's called music wire, so I would think a music store, but if it's bigger than 2/56, I don't know what it would be used for. So, the question of the day is....

Where do I get 1/8 music wire??

lol thanks

Alex

ChrisSpad

local hobby shop.

Shortman

My Feedback: (21)

I am building a PBF right now and I found that Shoe Goo works wonders!

Any silicon based glue works great on these coroplast planes. I bought my Shoe Goo at Home Depot for like $4 or something like that.

pinball-RCU

I don't think it has anything to do with music or pianos (it's sometimes called piano wire). I went into a art supply place, and asked for music wire, and they said oh no, they didn't have any, try the music shop across the mall. Idiots! They had plenty, but they weren't the least bit interested or embarrassed when I showed them.

Most arts and crafts places will have it (they usually stock K&S Engineering brand in long plastic tubes, at least where I live), as well as the LHS. I believe Home Depot has steel wire down to 1/8", but it can be hard to find.

danhoh

I take it that "GOOP" or "SHOO GOO" is the actual name of these glues, and its available at the local hardware stores ??

ajvpb

My Feedback: (3)

Yes. I got it at a local hardware store. Home depot has it also. I would take shortman's advice on the shoe goo. I got household goop and it isn't nearly strong enough.

TailDraggin

My Feedback: (5)

Tower Hobbies stocks music wire.
Glue options...
CA works, but can run where you don't want it. It works better if the corro is "flashed" first.
With CA, I use medium or thick and hit it with a dash of accellerator when I have the parts where I want them.
I've used two different forms of "contact cement". Weldwood works well, if brushed on in a thin even coat (brush in under the bottle cap) on both surfaces and allowed to dry for 5 minutes or so before sticking them together.
Welder is thicker than Weldwood. It is applied from a tube like silicone caulk and is about the same consistency. With Welder, I apply it to both surfaces, press them together, then pull them apart, checking for even coverage and let the glue dry. It takes about 10-15 minutes. Welder joints usually benefit from clamping, and it takes overnight to really cure well.
I don't bother to flash when using either contact cement. Not necessary at all.
JB Weld epoxy also works well in some applications.
I use CA when doing corners or butt joints where there isn't a lot of surface area to work with, Weldwood for surface mating when time is a factor and Welder when it isn't. JB Weld epoxy is great for coating a ply firewall or installing torsion rods or tailwheel-rudder link wires.

I'm not saying that these products or my methods are the best. Only that I've used them with success. All are available at Lowe's and probably many other fine hardware retail establishments.

Deadeye

For the bigger birds, I wouldn't use anything but poly glue. 40 size, you are probably OK with CAed joints; but woodpeckered coroplast, with a shot of water and poly glue makes a near impossible to break joint. You will tear the coroplast before the glue ever lets go. Only downside is, it takes a while for poly glue to set...like 12 hours.

Matt Kirsch

My Feedback: (21)

snownskate69,

Three places to get 1/8 music wire:

1. Hobby House, Lyell Avenue and Howard, across from the Lyell Ave. Wegmans.
2. Dan's Crafts & Things, Empire Blvd between Culver and 590.
3. Performance Hobbies, Main St Webster.

hoverit-RCU

What is strongest when gluing coro to coro?

Deadeye

Poly glue. I use Elmer's ProBond. Read my above post. It expands into mushrooms in the woodpeckered coro. Try it on scrap pieces and see if you can break the glue joint before the coro tears. Allow about 18 hours to dry. A light mist of water is all you need for good expansion.

ChrisSpad

if preppred right, ca is as strong, imo, or stronger than polyglue. I use polyglue for the foam to the coro joint, and woodpecker both the foam, and the coro, but, i can still get the polyglue joint to pop loose. coro-coro when ca'ed properly, will defenitely rip the plastic first. But, ask 10 people, you'll get 9 answers. Its a try it and see kind of thing. There is not a single right answer.

TailDraggin

My Feedback: (5)

Looks like there are several glues and methods that are at least as strong as the materials.