hoveralot

I was able to find Coroplast and aluminum channel for my PQHOR but canīt find any Poly Brand cutting table but I found some other brands with 1/3" and 1/4" width, 1/3 seems like too much and 1/4 is blue and looks like not good quality at all.

Is 1/4" ply too heavy?? I plan to use a ST .40 (very powerful) with a 34" long fuse and 34" wing and Hitec 422 servos (all around) .

Should I go with the 32"fuselage and 32" wing?? considering that my flying site is at more than 4000 feet of altitude.


Thanks

TailDraggin

My Feedback: (5)

1/4" ply should be fine. Cover it in epoxy ro paint it well with fuelproof paint, and make sur it's attached securely to your fuse.
By 34" wing, I assume you mean each wing? If so, you should be about right.

Tattoo

Plywood would work fine and if my "feel" is accurate, it's actually lighter. The reason I use the poly is for simplicity (takes self tapping screws) and tough/fuel proof. Ply that is fuel proofed would be great!

The poly stuff I use is from Wal-Mart...I can't even remember the "brand" name (American kitchenware or something like that) but it is 7/16" thick and translucent white (milky). Just make sure that it says "Poly" on the lable so that you know it's high density plastic. One brand to stay away from is "fiberware"...it's like partical plastic and is very brittle...and it doesn't say "poly' anywhere on the lable. You'll know you have the good stuff when you have to cut it slow or it will actually melt back together behind the saw blade.

I like the idea of a 34" x 34" PQHOR. Looking forward to the flight report!!!

The 422 servos are what I'm using in mine...you have to spread the channel ever so slightly to get them in, but it's a nice snug fit...and with the zip-tie thay aint going anywhere!

Dave McDonald

My Feedback: (19)

I tried wood motor mounts on my Qhor, but they weren't rugged enough. After quickly breaking two of them, I switched to Poly which is far more durable.

Here's a scan of the label of the Poly cutting board that I got at Wal-Mart.

Tattoo

Yeah...that's the stuff! I think I have a pic of it to here!

Dave McDonald

My Feedback: (19)

Hey, I'm jealous! My Poly wasn't "Rated For Professional Use".

Chunky C

You can order UHMW and HDPE from McMaster Carr online. They even sell it is 2.5" widths. Just right for making steped fire walls.

Chunk

Tattoo

Me and Chunky will make you a deal...we'll let you have some of our "prefessional use" Poly...if you let us have some of your flying skills...deal?

hoveralot

Thanks to all for your help, hopefully (if my job permits) this weekend I will fly my PQHOR and you will see a flight report here.

In Venezuela (where I live) is really hard to find some products, or maybe Iīm looking in the wrong place but anyway I will try to infect lots of pilots with the SPAD VIRUS

Matt Kirsch

My Feedback: (21)

The Farberware boards aren't any good? Uh-oh. A couple of us made up a bunch of HOR kits for club members interested in SSC combat. The other guy volunteered to pick up another cutting board for engine mounts, and came back with a $2 Farberware instead of the one I usually get (pictured above). It cut a lot easier, but seemed reasonably flexible and plenty strong enough.

Tattoo

We've found the fiberware boards work, but, self tapping screws will strip and come loose with vibration (must use bolts and nuts)...and they are brittle and will break in a crash. The fact that they cut easy is a good indication of their hardness (more brittle). In general, the harder they are to cut out (resist the blade and melt/gum up) the better they will hold screws and tougher they are. I have yet to break a true poly engine mount or firewall!

JohnWinger

Gee whiz, Tattoo ... I guess I crash harder than you! I broke a motor mount on a BUHOR and a firewall on my "Junky", both from the same "POLY" board pictured above .... :stupid:

eddiemans

"poly mounts"


I had a problem with mounts being torn apart on the right hand side from engine torque along with severe impact abuse!
The poly also sagged with engine weight/heat.
1/8th plywood glued to the bottom of the mount solved all problems except for the really severe vertical impacts which broke the ply but not the poly allowing flights for the rest of the day
( more carefully ).:-)

rudderjunkie

What is the best way to attach the firewall to the fuse?

Captain351

It sounds like you are referring to a Poly firewall in a PVC gutter pipe fuse.

I put one sheet metal screw on each of the 4 sides. I start with a 1/16 drill bit and just guestimate the center and drill about 1 1/2 inches deep. Remove the firewall and drill out the holes in the Fuse big enough so that your screws will go through.

Put the Firewall back in and sink the screws into the pilot holes. I use a power screwdriver and have never had them come loose.

rudderjunkie

so the firewall fits inside the gutter pipe fuse, and the screws go in from the sides? Is that how I am reading it?

rudderjunkie

I'm sorry, I was reading it wrong, I understand now thanks a bunch!