Kon-Tiki

Sorry, little off-topic but it's made from Correx which knowone's heard of on the boat forums!

Having a break from Planes, after severing 2 fingers on my left hand while running-in a new RCV-58 4-stroke, I fancied making somthing that's powered by the wind!

I've built half a dozen real yachts using GRP and have always wanted a Wharram Polynesian Catamaran. So that's what I desided to made a model of.

I can get two 48" long hulls from one sheet 4ft X 3ft. After folding and gluing the ends, the middle has to be opened up and a few bulheads inserted. On the first attempt, the CA glue joint came apart. I removed all the glue with sandpaper, Acetone and re-flashed it. Second attempt seems to be holding. There really is a lot of stress at these points. The front and rear seams really need a nice thick fillet of something really strong. Will Epoxy stick to the Correx???

The two wooden strips - rubbing strakes at the gunwhales stuck OK and the decking will be glued to them and to the top of the 3 0r 4 bulkheads. Should then be a nice strong structure.

Woodsy

COOL
i dont think weve had a SPAD sailing boat before

Kon-Tiki

The Hulls are not as light in weight as I thought they'd be. Could probably have used 2mm but it's 4mm round here or nothing!

The "Flutes" are exposed at the ends so I will seal them with tape or some silicone sealant. The two hulls will be joined with four deck beams and the deck cabin "Pod" will sit attached to the two middle beams and will be full width. The Pod will house the radio gear/batteries etc. The hulls will be empty and I may fill them with foam.

I really am keeping away from ENGINES at the moment until at least I regain full use of my left hand!

This is what the "Real" Wharram type Cat looks like:

MalaysianFlyer

Skylites,

I have used epoxy on coro, it will stick, but i dont know if it will take well on a high stress area. So far, it looks like Goop maybe the best.

How long before you complete this?? Looks very interesting

Kon-Tiki

Don't know. At the moment I have one end of each hull "sprung" apart. We don't have all the fancy different CA Glues here, just standard SupaGlue which has the consistency of water and "SupaGlue Gell". Need thicker glue with gap filling characteristics.

I hope to get my brain working today . . . . . and may come up with a neat way of stapling or stitching it. One I get it to hold OK I'll seal it on the inside with the Marine version of "Bath" sealant.

I'll post some more pictures later.

SeacretsOceanCity

Maybe Contact cement then silicone on the end to seal it.

nukes

skylites,

Welcome to spads. I was wondering if you could help this guy out. He is need of a coro (correx) source.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...11&forumid=235]

Kon-Tiki

Done! I have made contact with STEDGE2000, hopefully with a useful suggestion.

nukes

Thanks.
and good luck with your boat. Have you tried goop or welders glue? Have seen where some people are making floats for their planes and using these to water proof them.

nukes

Here is a link to those that float plane.
http://spadworld.net/viewtopic.php?t=3623

ErnieR

You might want to check out this website-

http://www.clcboats.com/materials.ph...70fe4db6ace50/

That is the building materials page for Chesapeake Light Craft. I built one of their kayaks from plans and found the stitch-and-glue method to be an ingenious and easy way to build a boat. It is a bit pricey, but their 2 part epoxy and fiberglass tape may be the answer to your problem of joining coro and having it be waterproof.

ChrisSpad

Plain old bathroom silicone will work just fine for waterproofing the coro.

Kon-Tiki

Thanks all for gluing info. Goop and welders glue is not available here. I've not been able to find Thick or medium CA either. All we have is "Locktight" SuperGlue and also the gel version.

I have tried West Epoxy and various Epoxies used in R/C Plane contruction and whilst they are very strong, they all parted company with one surface of the Corro leaving it completely free of any glue!

I experimented with Bathroom sealant on some scraps of Correx mounted and joined at a 45° angle. This stuff is desinged for use on uPVC windows and most plastics. Well, amazing. I tried to pull the two pieces apart. The white Sealant stretched but did not break or show any signs of parting from the Correx.

So this is what I've done to keep the Hull ends together. I've glued the ends with CA. I taped the ends while setting and so they don't spring apart when I open up the hull. I've put a THICK fillet of bathroom sealant down the front and back ends and well into the bottom for extra strength and to keep the water out. I've Epoxied the side strips (rubbing strake) together where they meet at the ends. I will leave the "test" Hull overnight and then try and pull it apart after all the glues have had 24 hours to fully cure.

Fingers crossed . . . . . . .

Deadeye

Woodpecker the coro where they meet, and use poly glue genourously spritzed with water to make the glue expand. This will not only waterproof the area, but make a very strong seam as well. Elmer's ProBond is what I use. Once Poly glue is set up, it is unphased by water. In fact, a few drops in a cup of water will cure overnight.

Kon-Tiki

The test hull is now made. Initially secured the ends with CA glue. Then epoxied the two ends of the rubbing strake together. The sealed all the seams on the inside with white slicone bathroom sealant. This sealant is great for bonding thing to uPVC and Corro.

I've also cut and fitted three bulkheads made from 3mm plywood. This Hull is very light in weight but very strong.

Kon-Tiki

Close-up of bulkhead bonded to hull . . . .

Kon-Tiki

Close-up of Stem/Stern Corro Flues Sealing. The lower area was sealed with Epoxy between the two strips of wood . . . . .

MalaysianFlyer

Skylites,

Looking good, glad to hear you found a solution.

Now am dying to see the rest of the construction, this is seriously very interesting, will be nice to see how you fit everything else on board.

Kon-Tiki

After much experimenting with the original hull ~ tested to destruction. Also "tank" tested and loaded with 10 times more weight than it will every carry, the prototype hull never leaked or sprung apart. I eventually "tore" it apart myself but it took a lot of effort!

I am now making two new hulls and will the first Catamaran!

Kon-Tiki

Friday 14:52 GMT: Now have two basic hulls made:

spadnut

Lookin good!
You got me thinkin about trying to make a sailboat now.
Very interesting

Kon-Tiki

Deep "V" Catamaran Hulls are easy to make. Athough these are my first using Correx, I have made many from Plasticard and also thin plywood. A flat bottom mono-hull would be possible with Corro but more involved than a Cat.

I should get some thin plywood tomorrow, so apart from a mast, it could be finished over the weekend.

I've made kites in the past and still have a few yards of white nylon "Ripstop" sailcloth ~ yes, making my own sails as well!

I've searched the archives but can't find info on painting Corro. I read something some time ago but can't find it now. If I wish to paint the hulls, howdo I prepare them and what type of paint stays on the best. Don't thing it needs to be marine grade as it won't be in the water all the time!

Woodsy

The water based poly-urethane spray paint or automotive pressure packs seem to work the best.
for preping the coro its done the same as for CA glue, either flash and wipe with solvent or rub with solvent and scotch pad

Deadeye

You want Rustoleum brand paint. It is fuel proof, and sticks to coro OK. I use the scotchbrite metod; I scrub it all down with dry scotchbrite. I then wipe it clean with a rag soaked in iso. A thin coat to start with, followed by a heavier coat that covers the rest of the plane...err..boat in your case. I've read where it is good to clear coat with Rustoleum brand clear coat, but have not tried it myself. The blue Rustoleum I used on my Cor-Star 60 seems to be holding very well. It seems to take a while for the paint to really cure. Like 48-60 hours. Then it is nearly bullet proof.

Kon-Tiki

Great. Thanks for the info. Can't flash the hull once assembled ~ the sides, curves are under some tension and I think it might buckle especially where it passes a bulkhead. The curve is nice and even, not flat or non-constant patches.

I still have the original prototype Hull which I'll clean with acetone and try Rustolium. I have a spray gun and an air-brush ~ this'll be fun.

No further progress ~ HAD TO GO SHOPPING!