looking for better spad stick tail mount method
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looking for better spad stick tail mount method
Hello felow sign horders,
I have been helping club members deplete my coro stash. We have completed 5 spadsticks and will likely do 3 more. I think the next ones will have extended nose length by 1.5 inches do to the need for balance weight on the others. I also will increase the coro width by 4 to 8 mm at the very front as the curent pattern does not quite get around the gutter pipe.
I find the tail assembly on this a bit tough to get right.
HAS ANY ONE DONE A SIMPLER TAIL MOUNTING METHOD?
Actually aft end of the fuse. It seems to be the area that gives the most head aches. I did use a pair of 1/4 20 plastic bolts stuck up from the bottom into the verticle stab. ( Stole the idea from Dave McD's PBF) That helps as we did tail draggers the tail wheel bracket can go on with the same screws.
I will keep experimenting and if I find an improved method I will post pics.
I have been helping club members deplete my coro stash. We have completed 5 spadsticks and will likely do 3 more. I think the next ones will have extended nose length by 1.5 inches do to the need for balance weight on the others. I also will increase the coro width by 4 to 8 mm at the very front as the curent pattern does not quite get around the gutter pipe.
I find the tail assembly on this a bit tough to get right.
HAS ANY ONE DONE A SIMPLER TAIL MOUNTING METHOD?
Actually aft end of the fuse. It seems to be the area that gives the most head aches. I did use a pair of 1/4 20 plastic bolts stuck up from the bottom into the verticle stab. ( Stole the idea from Dave McD's PBF) That helps as we did tail draggers the tail wheel bracket can go on with the same screws.
I will keep experimenting and if I find an improved method I will post pics.
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RE: looking for better spad stick tail mount method
I bought a piece of 1/4 round white plastic shoe molding at Home Depot. I sandwich the vertical stab between to 6" pieces of molding, screwing the molding to the fuse and the stab to the molding.
#3
RE: looking for better spad stick tail mount method
If it's too floppy just glued on, cut some corner pieces out of PVC pipe and glue that to the sides of the fuse and onto the horizontal. If you'd like, you can screw the horizontal to it instead of glueing but if you're going to screw it to the fuse you'll need to make provisions for that first.
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RE: looking for better spad stick tail mount method
ORIGINAL: OzMo
Hello felow sign horders,
I have been helping club members deplete my coro stash. We have completed 5 spadsticks and will likely do 3 more. I think the next ones will have extended nose length by 1.5 inches do to the need for balance weight on the others. I also will increase the coro width by 4 to 8 mm at the very front as the curent pattern does not quite get around the gutter pipe.
I find the tail assembly on this a bit tough to get right.
HAS ANY ONE DONE A SIMPLER TAIL MOUNTING METHOD?
Actually aft end of the fuse. It seems to be the area that gives the most head aches. I did use a pair of 1/4 20 plastic bolts stuck up from the bottom into the verticle stab. ( Stole the idea from Dave McD's PBF) That helps as we did tail draggers the tail wheel bracket can go on with the same screws.
I will keep experimenting and if I find an improved method I will post pics.
Hello felow sign horders,
I have been helping club members deplete my coro stash. We have completed 5 spadsticks and will likely do 3 more. I think the next ones will have extended nose length by 1.5 inches do to the need for balance weight on the others. I also will increase the coro width by 4 to 8 mm at the very front as the curent pattern does not quite get around the gutter pipe.
I find the tail assembly on this a bit tough to get right.
HAS ANY ONE DONE A SIMPLER TAIL MOUNTING METHOD?
Actually aft end of the fuse. It seems to be the area that gives the most head aches. I did use a pair of 1/4 20 plastic bolts stuck up from the bottom into the verticle stab. ( Stole the idea from Dave McD's PBF) That helps as we did tail draggers the tail wheel bracket can go on with the same screws.
I will keep experimenting and if I find an improved method I will post pics.
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RE: looking for better spad stick tail mount method
Here is a paint rendition of the mod....I know I can't draw for beans
Slit the fuse bottom to slide in the gutter pipe brackets (but not all the way back), add scrap coro spacers if need be, drill holes for two zip ties. Add a tail wheel if desired. Glue could be skipped so repairs are easy. Just cut the zip ties and replace whatever is needed.
This is a rear view of the fuse approx 1/2" from the aft end.
Slit the fuse bottom to slide in the gutter pipe brackets (but not all the way back), add scrap coro spacers if need be, drill holes for two zip ties. Add a tail wheel if desired. Glue could be skipped so repairs are easy. Just cut the zip ties and replace whatever is needed.
This is a rear view of the fuse approx 1/2" from the aft end.
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RE: looking for better spad stick tail mount method
OzMo:
A common problem with this type of construction. My spad building took an upturn when I started using Gorilla glue.
A common problem with this type of construction. My spad building took an upturn when I started using Gorilla glue.
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RE: looking for better spad stick tail mount method
Looks good,
I am looking for at being able to disasemble / reasemble without glue.
My crude drawing shows a possible method that utilizes a pair of zip ties to bind that section rigidly but can be relelased.
I am looking for at being able to disasemble / reasemble without glue.
My crude drawing shows a possible method that utilizes a pair of zip ties to bind that section rigidly but can be relelased.
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RE: looking for better spad stick tail mount method
I have used small zip ties to hold the wing and ailerons together. I have also sewed things together with a heavy needle and chord. Have never seen any tendency to tear.
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RE: looking for better spad stick tail mount method
Sure Zip Ties work pretty well with coroplast. With care in just where you place the holes they can allign the held parts very nicely.
Using thread to sew a hingline dates back to free flight preradio days. Those guys could build a straight plane.
Using thread to sew a hingline dates back to free flight preradio days. Those guys could build a straight plane.
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RE: looking for better spad stick tail mount method
OH BOY,
Well as is common with projects, this one has morphed into a bigger project. One of my best flying buds had his main radio die on him. Out of warranty by a couple weeks of course. So he wants to go 2.4. Rather limited financially so I offered to help him build a few of these sticks to sell to at least offset the new radio cost. I should have kept my big mouth the #$!! shut
So I am making a folding/ cutting jig. We will fold up the coro around the gutter pipe then clamp on a pair of templates THEN use a hot wire to cut the fuse sides. I have another template (piece of Formica) that will be put into the fuse bottom to hot wire cut the V in the back/ bottom of the fuse. We have a short +- 6" verticle hot wire on a table that we have used to cut foamies with, it works like a hotwire jig saw. We are going to use the gutter pipe L bracket idea. extend the nose by 2", extend the front gutter pipe by 1 1/2" (makes mounting the LG on a tail dragger version much easier). Should be fun! Well this is one way to use up the coro stash! I'll post a pic of the mods when we have done the first one. Another bud donated 5 sheets of 2 mill, yet another bud a bunch of poly cutting board left overs. I had 40 some feet of UGLY brown gutter pipe. Yep the POOP brown stuff. ****ly for sure, good thing it goes inside!
Well as is common with projects, this one has morphed into a bigger project. One of my best flying buds had his main radio die on him. Out of warranty by a couple weeks of course. So he wants to go 2.4. Rather limited financially so I offered to help him build a few of these sticks to sell to at least offset the new radio cost. I should have kept my big mouth the #$!! shut
So I am making a folding/ cutting jig. We will fold up the coro around the gutter pipe then clamp on a pair of templates THEN use a hot wire to cut the fuse sides. I have another template (piece of Formica) that will be put into the fuse bottom to hot wire cut the V in the back/ bottom of the fuse. We have a short +- 6" verticle hot wire on a table that we have used to cut foamies with, it works like a hotwire jig saw. We are going to use the gutter pipe L bracket idea. extend the nose by 2", extend the front gutter pipe by 1 1/2" (makes mounting the LG on a tail dragger version much easier). Should be fun! Well this is one way to use up the coro stash! I'll post a pic of the mods when we have done the first one. Another bud donated 5 sheets of 2 mill, yet another bud a bunch of poly cutting board left overs. I had 40 some feet of UGLY brown gutter pipe. Yep the POOP brown stuff. ****ly for sure, good thing it goes inside!