Hey Tommy Remember This Conversation?
08-07-2014, 10:29 PM
#126
Klasskote is an excellent choice, Jake. They are my favorite paints to work with for our application. Go on well, extremely resistant to nitro, very opaque; and, in my experience, the company has offered excellent customer support. I highly recommend them.
08-08-2014, 04:48 PM
#129
One thing I will suggest right off-the-bat: KlassKote recommends a 1-1-1 ratio of Part A, Part B, and Reducer. Although the manufacturer states that an equal amount of the reducer is the maximum recommended; in my experience, anything less than equal parts of reducer to parts A & B is definitely too thick. I have increased the ratio of reducer even further than 1-1-1, and have been happier with how well it flows through my gun; but, it is far more challenging for me to attain a consistent flow-coat, and yet still avoid causing a run on any vertically-oriented part. As a compromise, if I am "off" slightly on my ratio, I do err on the side of being a tiny bit heavier in reducer. But aside from that,1-1-1 seems to give me the most consistent results. I have read posts from others that have commented in other forums saying the same thing (that "for best overall results, do not use less than an equal amount of reducer").
I use the cheaper Harbor Freight detail and HVLP guns, and have had no issues even with the use of this "cheaper" equipment.
I have used both their Gloss and Satin clear coats, and have found they successfully cover any type of paint I have, thus far, used underneath, including: LustreKote & Hangar9 white and grey primers, various colors of Chevron Perfect Paint, and even the color-changing automotive paint system I used on the "Galloping Ghost." If you want a visual of what the finishes look like, and can remember what any of my planes look like, I used the Gloss on "The Ghost", and have used the Satin on each of my P-39s, P-47s, and the red and black P-51 I took to Redding two years ago, as well as my recent Fw190-D9 (in other words, the Satin has been used on every racer except for "The Ghost"). You can also see pictures of a few of these throughout my "Trinity Racer" build thread, if that helps give you a better visual. (I'll attempt to post a couple pics, below.) They sell a flattener additive for the Satin to make it a "flat" finish, but I hear mixed opinions about the results. Do to this, and the fact that we get no points for scale judging, I haven't tried it, yet. I feel that the Satin finish is close enough to a flat for what we do.
Their grey primer also makes a terrific surface finish for the plugs that I use for my composite layups. They only other material that has worked as well for me was Duratec Surfacing Primer. But, KlassKote's grey primer is far less expensive, has a vastly greater shelf-life, no special Haz-Mat shipping issues, and serves multiple purposes.
Have I sold you on the system, yet, gentlemen?
08-09-2014, 12:48 PM
#131
So far, KlassKote paints have gone over the other brands of primers I mentioned in my prior post (LustreKote and Hangar9), just as well as KlassKote's clear coats have. So "no", you don't have to use KlassKote primers to achieve good results. You can certainly use at least those two brands without issue, in my experience.
For example, in the pictures I posted prior, as memory serves, both the P-39s have white LustreKote spray can White Primer on the wing leading edges and tails. I then masked it and applied KlassKote Olive Drab paint over that, and finally KlassKote Satin Clear. And if my memory is "off" a little, and not specifically on those two, then definitely on the previous P-39.
(If additional details about the other model matter to you, towards getting a feel for what their finishes look like, then: the finish on the P-51 is Red SolarTex covering on the wing - unpainted. KlassKote Bright Red paint on the fuse - not perfect match, but close. All the black, except for the "7" decal on the wing, is KlassKote Black, and the white checkerboard on the nose and tail is KlassKote White Primer. Again, finally KlassKote Satin Clear to seal the decals I used: my "Iron Dog Air Racing" logo/decal on the wing, nose art decal, and red "7" decals on both sides of the vertical fin.)
For example, in the pictures I posted prior, as memory serves, both the P-39s have white LustreKote spray can White Primer on the wing leading edges and tails. I then masked it and applied KlassKote Olive Drab paint over that, and finally KlassKote Satin Clear. And if my memory is "off" a little, and not specifically on those two, then definitely on the previous P-39.
(If additional details about the other model matter to you, towards getting a feel for what their finishes look like, then: the finish on the P-51 is Red SolarTex covering on the wing - unpainted. KlassKote Bright Red paint on the fuse - not perfect match, but close. All the black, except for the "7" decal on the wing, is KlassKote Black, and the white checkerboard on the nose and tail is KlassKote White Primer. Again, finally KlassKote Satin Clear to seal the decals I used: my "Iron Dog Air Racing" logo/decal on the wing, nose art decal, and red "7" decals on both sides of the vertical fin.)
08-09-2014, 10:01 PM
#133
Jake, I wouldn't put the klasscote over the water based Warbird Colors.. Its a totally different product from all the others mentioned. I also found good results using the klean strip lacquer thinner ( from Home Depot) with Klasscote in a ratio of 1-1-3 it flashes off faster and helps prevent the paint from running. When I used the recommended 1-1-1 it came out thick and heavy and the satin dried gloss.
Last edited by tdstaf; 08-09-2014 at 10:04 PM.
08-09-2014, 10:10 PM
#134
They do. However, only the smaller cans. Obviously, your money goes further when buying in larger quantities. But, at least the small cans would get you started, without a larger initial investment, and allow you to see how well you like the stuff, first.
Note: I don't believe RC Country carries every color KlassKote offers, and occasionally some of what they do carry is not consistently in-stock. If you are planning on coming down to get it, rather than order it on-line, I'd call to make sure they have what you need, and have them put it on hold for you, first.
Note: I don't believe RC Country carries every color KlassKote offers, and occasionally some of what they do carry is not consistently in-stock. If you are planning on coming down to get it, rather than order it on-line, I'd call to make sure they have what you need, and have them put it on hold for you, first.
08-10-2014, 09:11 AM
#135
I also love the Klass Koat primer. That being said it is very expensive for what you get. Auto paint stores carry the Transtar brand. I have found the Transtar to work just as well at a fraction of the cost. Personally with the nitro percentages we use I only use a catalized primer. When using others the fuel tends to get under the paint and starts to spread.
11-11-2014, 10:32 PM
#137
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A video here to show some progress and I have a question that needs some answering. Help a Brother out yo!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSNS...Y85NZdfo6m2o3w
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jSNS...Y85NZdfo6m2o3w
11-12-2014, 10:38 AM
#139
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I already drilled the holes in the mount for the screws so that option may be mute, unless I get another mount. Could I press blind nuts into the motor mounts? Sergio gave me another option too, so I am weighing my options.
12-01-2014, 08:32 PM
#141
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So which wing servos do people use in these size planes with the thin wing.? I am partial to Hitecs, but would love to hear the input of others, as to their experiences.
12-01-2014, 09:52 PM
#143
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They Hitec HS 85 or 87's in my wings with the servo near the aileron. On my next two planes are running 30 dollar turnegy servos. metal case and metal gears 68 ounce of torque at 6 volts. lots of servos out there. Hitec 225's will not fit in most wings that far out. if going to run 225 I would get the 5245 or the 7245s. the 225's have pot issues and can/will take your plane out.
12-02-2014, 07:33 PM
#147
LOL Shawn... I sure do miss racing with all you guys. Im only going to give a little info here: I have a new JR DMSS with a YS (of course) powered plane coming to match wits with all of you. It will be much faster than anything produced from our NV team so far. Not that the others are slow.
It will turn heads.
I have a goal for warbird racing I will mention here and go into more detail when we are all together again. I want to see it in Muncie as a NATS event. If they can get EF1 and Club40 in as an event, certainly 180 MPH warbirds should make the ticket. We will all need to work together to get the right people to our Sams and RCPRO races. But it will be an event eventually, and I Plan on being the first NATS champion.
It will turn heads.
I have a goal for warbird racing I will mention here and go into more detail when we are all together again. I want to see it in Muncie as a NATS event. If they can get EF1 and Club40 in as an event, certainly 180 MPH warbirds should make the ticket. We will all need to work together to get the right people to our Sams and RCPRO races. But it will be an event eventually, and I Plan on being the first NATS champion.
12-03-2014, 06:07 PM
#149
LOL Shawn... I sure do miss racing with all you guys.
I have a goal for warbird racing I will mention here and go into more detail when we are all together again. I want to see it in Muncie as a NATS event. If they can get EF1 and Club40 in as an event, certainly 180 MPH warbirds should make the ticket. We will all need to work together to get the right people to our Sams and RCPRO races. But it will be an event eventually, and I Plan on being the first NATS champion.
I have a goal for warbird racing I will mention here and go into more detail when we are all together again. I want to see it in Muncie as a NATS event. If they can get EF1 and Club40 in as an event, certainly 180 MPH warbirds should make the ticket. We will all need to work together to get the right people to our Sams and RCPRO races. But it will be an event eventually, and I Plan on being the first NATS champion.
We miss you, as well Marty! The five or so months in-between racing seasons is the hardest part of the year for me to bear, as I end up missing so many of my friends that distance separates.
Related to your post on the other thread about racing schedules, SAM will be having its Events Scheduling Meeting on December 16th. To help you better prepare your overall race-event schedule, we'll determine the number of races and specific dates very shortly. I plan on hosting the VALLEY OF SPEED race as a two-day event, this coming year, rather than the one-day event it was a year-and-a-half ago. Tying this back to your comments on this thread: as one of the CDs that want to continue growing this aspect (or S.I.G.) of the sport, please let me know of anything I can do to aid your efforts towards NATS.* Between Redding's "Ash-Fast", SAM's "Trashman/YS" race, and SAM's "VALLEY OF SPEED" race, this would most likely give us 3 opportunities to get "the right people" to a quality 2-day event here in Northern California, alone.
I personally have yet to attend a Triangle-Series or RC Pro race, but hope to soon. Knowing an AMA VIP might be there might further motivate more of us to better support each others' events by making the long trek, as you do so regularly throughout the racing season.
* (Regarding aiding your efforts towards NATS, I'm referring more to "better national exposure of our sport." As far as you "being the first NATS champion". . . yeah, you're on your own there! Just 'cause it was your idea first, doesn't mean I don't intend to be the first champ, myself!
Hopefully, there would still be the three classes, and you could take Gold, I'll take Silver, etc. Oh no! Here comes that whole "Goals, plans, & dreams" conversation, again!)
Ollie