Show your stuff
01-15-2015, 03:45 PM
#101
Well that was a cheap plug to get that beautiful plane into this forum.
I love tru-fire. That is by far the coolest paint job ive seen on a quickie.
For what its worth, our gold racers this year will be closer to 180 MPH.
How fast is the Q500 with the Jett?
I love tru-fire. That is by far the coolest paint job ive seen on a quickie.
For what its worth, our gold racers this year will be closer to 180 MPH.
How fast is the Q500 with the Jett?
01-15-2015, 04:18 PM
#102
We put 8 maiden trim flights on it at summersville WV august last year, was getting faster each flight leaning it out a smidge each flight , some were comenting 180 + with ease, but thats someone else's opinion
I do know it was coming hard out of the corners, I worked over the dub Q500 engine to my liking's and is all go or no go, yes it is a hand full but a real crowd pleaser, i dont race i just enjoy the speed and the rpm's it turns up - ear piercing
Everyone loves a fast plane, i am doing another Ninja with a neon yellow candy and black checked smoke pattern, it too looks killer, it also has a Q500 II also mod'd waiting for it
Cant wait for spring time
I do know it was coming hard out of the corners, I worked over the dub Q500 engine to my liking's and is all go or no go, yes it is a hand full but a real crowd pleaser, i dont race i just enjoy the speed and the rpm's it turns up - ear piercing
Everyone loves a fast plane, i am doing another Ninja with a neon yellow candy and black checked smoke pattern, it too looks killer, it also has a Q500 II also mod'd waiting for it
Cant wait for spring time
01-16-2015, 06:45 PM
#103
I have always been fond of Q500 airplanes. I went straight from my trainer to a Q500 way back in '79. I wish I could claim that I was the father of the shoulder wing, V tail configuration as I had one in '80. I can't really make that claim as the one I built was only flown a handful of times before I hacked off the V tail and put a standard tail on it. The mechanical mixer I used along with the available servos at the time just led to a system that I just could not get to center. My favorite Q500 memory was a fly off race against Rusty VanBaren. With Q500 gaining popularity here in NorCal I'm considering building one and hitting the poles with it. I was thinking of a bad ass build with awesome paint but yours would be hard to match.
01-17-2015, 12:31 PM
#105
We may be able to work that out. I won't be able to take on any new projects for a few months and will be struggling to get the ones done that I have now. A big change for Team Speed is in the works, announcement will follow as soon as it is concrete.
02-28-2015, 04:57 PM
#106
Now that we have had 2 weeks to settle into the new Sacramento residence and I am not completly overwhelmed with setting up the new house and adjusting to a new job I can get back to finishing the Macchi x3. Eased into it over the week by bagging the tail section with glass and a strip of nylon cloth. These will have skin hinging on the tail. Over the weekend so far I have been working on the retract installs and cutouts for the tail section. The goal is to button up the retracts and start glassing the wings and while I am waiting for resin to cure on the wings I will be working on hinging, mounting and running pushrods to the tail. Primer will start in a week to 10 days.
02-28-2015, 05:58 PM
#109
Thanks Marty. With time running short I'm doing my best to invest the hours rather then make shortcuts. Once I get to the primer stage things will move quickly. I hope I can get them test flown March 28 or 29. Still have to order up another 115.
03-10-2015, 08:31 AM
#112
sliver plane
hello group, cool planes discussed and documented indeed!
i will post pictures of the plane I purchased and even further modified and plane to race with. i am new to all of this. i was hoping for gold class, but after seeing these planes and the aerodynamics, i do not stand a chance. oh well, silver class it is
world models p51 mustang. it is to resemble a reno racing plane from the 40's.
i got off of a guy in AZ and had it had a ys91. i took off the motor and replaced with 120. i got 3 of these motors off ebay and all were not good, sent them in to richard to fix. i did not know much about ys115 and thought 120 where the best , boy was i wrong. the cost to fix all of the motors stung a little- I should have bought 3 new - 115ws instead. oh well lesson learned.
wing is stock thickness, but shortened to 51", ailerons moved to wing ends. beefed up elevator push rods. the scoop was removed and therefore the fuselage has been modified. the tail wheel was moved to near the end of the fuselage. I did not do this and not preferred with this - and the tail wheel is not steerable. i will have to takeoff and land like a quicke. i tried to race in tucson but it was winded out, and I am glad I didnt (the 120s were still being fixed, so I stuck on the 91). I went over the plane again, put back on the 120 and I feel much better about trying to fly the pane and racing it. I am bummed I cannot make the SAMs races due to scheduling conflicts. I will give it a "college try" for the fresno race. i really have not flown the plane as I had a hard time getting the motors to run right. I will try to fly it this weekend in preparation to the phoenix race in a few weeks.
I am open to all feedback - the good and bad please. I am sure I have something wrong, i usually do. see you at the races!
i will post pictures of the plane I purchased and even further modified and plane to race with. i am new to all of this. i was hoping for gold class, but after seeing these planes and the aerodynamics, i do not stand a chance. oh well, silver class it is
world models p51 mustang. it is to resemble a reno racing plane from the 40's.
i got off of a guy in AZ and had it had a ys91. i took off the motor and replaced with 120. i got 3 of these motors off ebay and all were not good, sent them in to richard to fix. i did not know much about ys115 and thought 120 where the best , boy was i wrong. the cost to fix all of the motors stung a little- I should have bought 3 new - 115ws instead. oh well lesson learned.
wing is stock thickness, but shortened to 51", ailerons moved to wing ends. beefed up elevator push rods. the scoop was removed and therefore the fuselage has been modified. the tail wheel was moved to near the end of the fuselage. I did not do this and not preferred with this - and the tail wheel is not steerable. i will have to takeoff and land like a quicke. i tried to race in tucson but it was winded out, and I am glad I didnt (the 120s were still being fixed, so I stuck on the 91). I went over the plane again, put back on the 120 and I feel much better about trying to fly the pane and racing it. I am bummed I cannot make the SAMs races due to scheduling conflicts. I will give it a "college try" for the fresno race. i really have not flown the plane as I had a hard time getting the motors to run right. I will try to fly it this weekend in preparation to the phoenix race in a few weeks.
I am open to all feedback - the good and bad please. I am sure I have something wrong, i usually do. see you at the races!
Last edited by gtm3323; 03-10-2015 at 08:37 AM.
03-10-2015, 06:39 PM
#114
gtm,
Welcome! Glad you've caught "the bug" and are going to join us.
It sounds like you would like some feedback, so I will offer my comments (for what they are worth):
The extra retaining dowels at the leading edge of the wing are a good idea. Over the years, I have seen a few of the WM Mustangs' single plywood retaining tabs wear due to vibration at the center section.
It is good that all the control rods to the flying surfaces have Z-bends. If you are using metal clevises, I suggest using a nut hold the clevis tight. Again, I have seen vibration take its toll on the threads when this has not been done; resulting in effective loss of the control surface due to the clevis becoming stripped.
It is good that you have control going to both elevator halves. I would feel more comfortable with a carbon fiber rod (such as those available from Dave Brown, or at Central Hobbies), replacing the wood dowel and heat-shrink tubing, if you are racing in any class besides Bronze.
These race engines are very torquey. I strongly recommend you have a steerable tailwheel so you can make course corrections, as needed. Although my club's rules do not state anything specifically about this, as one of the SAM Contest Directors, I would have some concerns about the safety of operating as powerful an aircraft as this, without one -- especially in a crosswind. Safety is key, dead-sticks happen, and you may have to land suddenly with another plane still on the runway. You will want to be able to steer around another plane in such a situation. If for no other reason . . . to be competitive, consistency is the key; and, to ensure you get up and down consistently without damage and much wasted time on repairs stressing you out throughout the day (and cutting into your time to socialize and have fun with everyone come race day), a little work now will make you much happier in the long run.
Just my two-cents. I hope they are helpful. As a fellow Silver racer, I hope to meet you soon!
Ollie
Welcome! Glad you've caught "the bug" and are going to join us.
It sounds like you would like some feedback, so I will offer my comments (for what they are worth):
The extra retaining dowels at the leading edge of the wing are a good idea. Over the years, I have seen a few of the WM Mustangs' single plywood retaining tabs wear due to vibration at the center section.
It is good that all the control rods to the flying surfaces have Z-bends. If you are using metal clevises, I suggest using a nut hold the clevis tight. Again, I have seen vibration take its toll on the threads when this has not been done; resulting in effective loss of the control surface due to the clevis becoming stripped.
It is good that you have control going to both elevator halves. I would feel more comfortable with a carbon fiber rod (such as those available from Dave Brown, or at Central Hobbies), replacing the wood dowel and heat-shrink tubing, if you are racing in any class besides Bronze.
These race engines are very torquey. I strongly recommend you have a steerable tailwheel so you can make course corrections, as needed. Although my club's rules do not state anything specifically about this, as one of the SAM Contest Directors, I would have some concerns about the safety of operating as powerful an aircraft as this, without one -- especially in a crosswind. Safety is key, dead-sticks happen, and you may have to land suddenly with another plane still on the runway. You will want to be able to steer around another plane in such a situation. If for no other reason . . . to be competitive, consistency is the key; and, to ensure you get up and down consistently without damage and much wasted time on repairs stressing you out throughout the day (and cutting into your time to socialize and have fun with everyone come race day), a little work now will make you much happier in the long run.
Just my two-cents. I hope they are helpful. As a fellow Silver racer, I hope to meet you soon!
Ollie
03-11-2015, 07:13 AM
#115
gtm,
Though the rudder will work ok with enough air flow over the surface, once you slow it down, youll need control. Plus at beginning of take off youll need to turn that thing to the right..... I suggest ditching the scale location and installing a tail wheel off the rudder/fuse (easy fix). I remember meeting you in Tucson. "Hormel Food"?
Though the rudder will work ok with enough air flow over the surface, once you slow it down, youll need control. Plus at beginning of take off youll need to turn that thing to the right..... I suggest ditching the scale location and installing a tail wheel off the rudder/fuse (easy fix). I remember meeting you in Tucson. "Hormel Food"?
03-11-2015, 07:15 AM
#116
By the way if you are looking to get into it on a budget yet have a gold ready plane- get the new airborne spitfire that is coming out this month. $229 + shipping. Elec retracts installed, good airfoil on main wing, sheeted stab, 4 bolt wing...... it has all the needed items to race any class.
03-11-2015, 02:47 PM
#118
gtm,
Though the rudder will work ok with enough air flow over the surface, once you slow it down, youll need control. Plus at beginning of take off youll need to turn that thing to the right..... I suggest ditching the scale location and installing a tail wheel off the rudder/fuse (easy fix). I remember meeting you in Tucson. "Hormel Food"?
Though the rudder will work ok with enough air flow over the surface, once you slow it down, youll need control. Plus at beginning of take off youll need to turn that thing to the right..... I suggest ditching the scale location and installing a tail wheel off the rudder/fuse (easy fix). I remember meeting you in Tucson. "Hormel Food"?
I put all mine in the scale location and prefer them there. By doing so there is less stress on the rudder and rudder servo. Also if the plane has to ditch because of dead stick with gear up the tail wheel is not going to pull out of the rudder or damage the rudder.
(there I go giving up secrets... darn it).
Skids
03-11-2015, 02:54 PM
#119
I have heard of the stress as you say, but havent had an issue with mine yet. But others do echo your concerns. I have noticed the control seems to be better the farther back you go, though as you stated, there are other sacrafices when doing so.
I think the big issue here is he stated it wasnt steerable at all?
That needs to be addressed in rules some where.
He needs total control of that thing at all times.
That was pretty much my intention in my posting
I looked my rules for the warbird champ race, and darn it, in there, is nothing that states "steerable tail wheel". This is a concern for me at my race at least. Id hate to be the one getting hit by a plane on the ground who couldnt turn his away from mine.
I think the big issue here is he stated it wasnt steerable at all?
That needs to be addressed in rules some where.
He needs total control of that thing at all times.
That was pretty much my intention in my posting
I looked my rules for the warbird champ race, and darn it, in there, is nothing that states "steerable tail wheel". This is a concern for me at my race at least. Id hate to be the one getting hit by a plane on the ground who couldnt turn his away from mine.
03-11-2015, 03:34 PM
#121
Marty,
I put all mine in the scale location and prefer them there. By doing so there is less stress on the rudder and rudder servo. Also if the plane has to ditch because of dead stick with gear up the tail wheel is not going to pull out of the rudder or damage the rudder.
(there I go giving up secrets... darn it).
Skids
I put all mine in the scale location and prefer them there. By doing so there is less stress on the rudder and rudder servo. Also if the plane has to ditch because of dead stick with gear up the tail wheel is not going to pull out of the rudder or damage the rudder.
(there I go giving up secrets... darn it).
Skids
Dave
03-11-2015, 03:36 PM
#122
Just got off the phone with gtm, and he will be getting a tail wheel assembly installed soon. He is a dedicated racer and has plans to create a good fleet that will make all of us jealous. Cant wait for the races to get here already.
Jeff, i will be making a change to the rules shortly
Jeff, i will be making a change to the rules shortly
03-12-2015, 05:48 AM
#123
Thanks everyone one for the advice. I feel a whole bunch better of ground control of the plane!
I have 2 more questions
one mentioned about the metal clevis on the surfaces, to fix do I just put a nut butted up against the clevis? Or Should I change them all to plastic?
also one of my previous photos showed the inside of fuselage with the glue on firewall. Does it look like there is enough glue on the firewall? Do I need to pin the firewall - what does that mean and what does that look like?
do I need to glass the wing 3-4"? I doesnt look like it is.
i have already preordered 2 spitfires and was able to acquire a new ys115ws. Hope I get those in time to get and build by the November race
thanks gerald
03-12-2015, 06:00 AM
#124
I have heard of the stress as you say, but havent had an issue with mine yet. But others do echo your concerns. I have noticed the control seems to be better the farther back you go, though as you stated, there are other sacrafices when doing so.
I think the big issue here is he stated it wasnt steerable at all?
That needs to be addressed in rules some where.
He needs total control of that thing at all times.
That was pretty much my intention in my posting
I looked my rules for the warbird champ race, and darn it, in there, is nothing that states "steerable tail wheel". This is a concern for me at my race at least. Id hate to be the one getting hit by a plane on the ground who couldnt turn his away from mine.
I think the big issue here is he stated it wasnt steerable at all?
That needs to be addressed in rules some where.
He needs total control of that thing at all times.
That was pretty much my intention in my posting
I looked my rules for the warbird champ race, and darn it, in there, is nothing that states "steerable tail wheel". This is a concern for me at my race at least. Id hate to be the one getting hit by a plane on the ground who couldnt turn his away from mine.
03-12-2015, 07:57 AM
#125
My Feedback: (66)
the metal clevis looks fine to me as long as you have a Z bend on the other end.
now a nut tightened up against the clevis will remove slop. the biggest thing i can tell someone new to race is have very good centering servos and ZERO slop. On your ailerons and elevator have a decent set of servos.
now a nut tightened up against the clevis will remove slop. the biggest thing i can tell someone new to race is have very good centering servos and ZERO slop. On your ailerons and elevator have a decent set of servos.