Eighth Scale Aviation Tsunami 517" build
02-10-2016, 06:17 AM
#27
I used 5 oz top and bottom. That gave me 10 oz total. I used no carbon on the spars, but did use all hardwood at all three areas even though one of those spars, the rearward one, was calling for balsa.
Perhaps i brought it too far to the leading edge and as I pulled it downward it really grabbed it. I noticed it didnt hardly do it at all on the other edges.
How far out to the leading and trailing edges do you guys normally take the cloth?
I understand the wax method as it keeps the cloth matted down to a tighter nap while squeegying. I will do that next time for sure.
Not sure what the TP method is other than cleaning up all the crap
I took a xacto knife and cut most of the obnoxious strands before it totally cured to help with the problem I created for my sanding steps. I foresee some spackle in these areas to feather everything nicely.
Anyway today after work I will final fill, sand and install servos in hatch area and it goes off to the "needs covering" stack.
Besides I now have to prep some warbirds for the tucson race and maiden a Q40 and get ready for the Phx race in back to back weekends in AZ racing schedule here in a couple weeks.
Perhaps i brought it too far to the leading edge and as I pulled it downward it really grabbed it. I noticed it didnt hardly do it at all on the other edges.
How far out to the leading and trailing edges do you guys normally take the cloth?
I understand the wax method as it keeps the cloth matted down to a tighter nap while squeegying. I will do that next time for sure.
Not sure what the TP method is other than cleaning up all the crap
I took a xacto knife and cut most of the obnoxious strands before it totally cured to help with the problem I created for my sanding steps. I foresee some spackle in these areas to feather everything nicely.
Anyway today after work I will final fill, sand and install servos in hatch area and it goes off to the "needs covering" stack.
Besides I now have to prep some warbirds for the tucson race and maiden a Q40 and get ready for the Phx race in back to back weekends in AZ racing schedule here in a couple weeks.
02-10-2016, 12:37 PM
#28
Join Date: Jun 2002
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TP = Toliet Paper.
Never tried it with Epoxy, but when I used Polyester Resin. You would lay out the cloth, wet it out, then apply TP to it to absorb all the excess resin. Of course you peeled the TP off and threw it away.
Marty, you have strands showing because used heavy cloth. 5oz is pretty heavy. It probably takes a ton of work to fill the weave for painting.
DK
Never tried it with Epoxy, but when I used Polyester Resin. You would lay out the cloth, wet it out, then apply TP to it to absorb all the excess resin. Of course you peeled the TP off and threw it away.
Marty, you have strands showing because used heavy cloth. 5oz is pretty heavy. It probably takes a ton of work to fill the weave for painting.
DK
02-10-2016, 12:59 PM
#29
Thx for the clarification Dan
The Designer called for a center section layer of 3 oz and another 2 separate sheets of 2 oz with an over lapping sequence giving me 7 ozs in the very middle at fuse saddle, and then tapering out to 4 and eventually 2 at the extreme outter edge. All I had was 3/4,, 3 and 5 oz, so I opted to just do 5 on top and bttm with the designers approval.
I will be monokoting this plane, no painting on this one.
I do want to get a WM arf stang and remove covering, glass it and paint it, to practice it and get used to the process. If I mess up, its just an ARF. I didnt want to experiment on this built up kit for my first attempt.
I normally just glass the center on my ARF's wings with 2 oz, but this kit needed to be as close to the 7 as possible and I didnt have enough of the 2 oz to do the whole sections top and bttm.
I did change the way I applied the epoxy. I dripped it on the wing section in the ares the cloth would go, I then used a tight nap paint roller and spread the epoxy evenly on the wing. I then laid on the cloth, and re rolled the whole surface. Then when it soaked in real good, I squeegied out the excess and feathered into the outer sections of the wing hoping to hide that line best I could. I have also added spackle to the bad areas, edges and such and sanded it out. I also painted the retract wheel well area black and am letting it dry.
Then I loaded up 2 Q40's and 2 Warbirds for the next project in AZ.
The Designer called for a center section layer of 3 oz and another 2 separate sheets of 2 oz with an over lapping sequence giving me 7 ozs in the very middle at fuse saddle, and then tapering out to 4 and eventually 2 at the extreme outter edge. All I had was 3/4,, 3 and 5 oz, so I opted to just do 5 on top and bttm with the designers approval.
I will be monokoting this plane, no painting on this one.
I do want to get a WM arf stang and remove covering, glass it and paint it, to practice it and get used to the process. If I mess up, its just an ARF. I didnt want to experiment on this built up kit for my first attempt.
I normally just glass the center on my ARF's wings with 2 oz, but this kit needed to be as close to the 7 as possible and I didnt have enough of the 2 oz to do the whole sections top and bttm.
I did change the way I applied the epoxy. I dripped it on the wing section in the ares the cloth would go, I then used a tight nap paint roller and spread the epoxy evenly on the wing. I then laid on the cloth, and re rolled the whole surface. Then when it soaked in real good, I squeegied out the excess and feathered into the outer sections of the wing hoping to hide that line best I could. I have also added spackle to the bad areas, edges and such and sanded it out. I also painted the retract wheel well area black and am letting it dry.
Then I loaded up 2 Q40's and 2 Warbirds for the next project in AZ.
Last edited by MFLOOD3800; 02-10-2016 at 01:19 PM.
03-03-2016, 05:35 PM
#31
Made it back to Utah for another week so I got busy on the fuse
I laid it out per plans and with some help from Tim.
I am using the Hyde Soft Mount with the Nose ring (cause I had it in stock)
I epoxied the blind nuts in to ensure never having an issue after this is all enclosed
This fire wall is in 2 pieces and was put together while drilling mount holes
The very front of the crutches is NOT balsa. It is laser cut hard wood that is placed in the proper location and the existing balsa crutch must be cut out to hold the hard wood pieces that are then glued in
I will be adding front bolts for main wing tie down assembly and then adding wood shaped to the wing dyhedral front and rear, at a later time. The hardwood was epoxied in as was a piece of tri stock underneath for more reinforcement.
There was some custom work done at the rear crutches to tie it all in together using 1/2" Balsa and then shaped to contour of fuse sides - sanded to ensure proper shape.
All formers including nose ring were installed utilizing a square and med Ca.
I laid it out per plans and with some help from Tim.
I am using the Hyde Soft Mount with the Nose ring (cause I had it in stock)
I epoxied the blind nuts in to ensure never having an issue after this is all enclosed
This fire wall is in 2 pieces and was put together while drilling mount holes
The very front of the crutches is NOT balsa. It is laser cut hard wood that is placed in the proper location and the existing balsa crutch must be cut out to hold the hard wood pieces that are then glued in
I will be adding front bolts for main wing tie down assembly and then adding wood shaped to the wing dyhedral front and rear, at a later time. The hardwood was epoxied in as was a piece of tri stock underneath for more reinforcement.
There was some custom work done at the rear crutches to tie it all in together using 1/2" Balsa and then shaped to contour of fuse sides - sanded to ensure proper shape.
All formers including nose ring were installed utilizing a square and med Ca.
Last edited by MFLOOD3800; 03-03-2016 at 05:47 PM.
03-03-2016, 10:09 PM
#34
She's coming along nicely, Marty. Great to see you back at it, again.
(We haven't been able to get together for the last many weeks, so our progress on the Czechmate has been stalled for awhile, but will be meeting again this weekend.)
(We haven't been able to get together for the last many weeks, so our progress on the Czechmate has been stalled for awhile, but will be meeting again this weekend.)
03-04-2016, 07:47 AM
#36
Today I will be inside the fuse adding linkage control rod guides, front wing tie down, servo tray and things like that.
I also hope to get front cowl done and top formers installed.
I did pre set my Hyde soft mount in and it appears to be a good fit.
This is a super fun build, just wish i had more time to dedicate to it.
I also hope to get front cowl done and top formers installed.
I did pre set my Hyde soft mount in and it appears to be a good fit.
This is a super fun build, just wish i had more time to dedicate to it.
03-04-2016, 09:59 AM
#37
My Feedback: (66)
There is a lot of reward for building your own plane from a kit like these. To all you ARF guys get a kit either these or any other kit and build a plane. The pride you have in the plane and the smile you have at the field is awesome know you built that all by your self.
03-05-2016, 12:54 PM
#39
I got the front cowl frame work glued together and will soon be doing the "planking"
I also modified the tail to reduce the surface area of the elevator halves at higher racing speeds.
I begged forgiveness from the Tim the designer for my variation.....
You can also see the reinforcing and guides for control linkage inside the fuse from servos to control horn area. Each rod has 3 points of guide and control assuring no slop in the surfaces creating flutter. At least I hope so
As with most guys, I now put this on hold and tackle a Q40 assembly for a race in 2 weeks.
A race that my normal caller , Jeff the Air Raptor, is skipping out on leaving me high and dry all cause he wants to take a vacation.... For me a race is a vacation
LoL
I also modified the tail to reduce the surface area of the elevator halves at higher racing speeds.
I begged forgiveness from the Tim the designer for my variation.....
You can also see the reinforcing and guides for control linkage inside the fuse from servos to control horn area. Each rod has 3 points of guide and control assuring no slop in the surfaces creating flutter. At least I hope so
As with most guys, I now put this on hold and tackle a Q40 assembly for a race in 2 weeks.
A race that my normal caller , Jeff the Air Raptor, is skipping out on leaving me high and dry all cause he wants to take a vacation.... For me a race is a vacation
LoL
03-05-2016, 04:39 PM
#40
My Feedback: (66)
yes I know marty and richard called me and told me I had my priorities backwards too. Florida Keys for two weeks of fishing and spring break V/S pylon race racing tough choice for sure. You were doing awesome at the last race. no cuts and will be in top ten again.
03-05-2016, 05:15 PM
#42
Ok I started the "planking" or sheeting as normal ARF assemblers would call it.
I prepped the front end first to minimize the amount of CA getting into wrong parts. The cowl on this Tsunami is actually just a lower cheek design (which I like and think is very cool. Its how we did our Giant Scale Racers too.
So I monokoted the areas of concern to keep CA out of those critical areas. In one pic you can see the protected areas, and the frame work of the lower cowl, and then the two area placed together.
I used purple which is Voodo colors for those of you that might not know.
ehmmmm Tim.
Then I started planking from the rear working forward (saving the fun for last)
I also set up the servo hatch area now so I didnt have to do it later.
I can also access areas to add battery in back if needed for balancing
I have already notched out the exit holes of the elevator and rudder control linkage to make it easier to find after covering
I prepped the front end first to minimize the amount of CA getting into wrong parts. The cowl on this Tsunami is actually just a lower cheek design (which I like and think is very cool. Its how we did our Giant Scale Racers too.
So I monokoted the areas of concern to keep CA out of those critical areas. In one pic you can see the protected areas, and the frame work of the lower cowl, and then the two area placed together.
I used purple which is Voodo colors for those of you that might not know.
ehmmmm Tim.
Then I started planking from the rear working forward (saving the fun for last)
I also set up the servo hatch area now so I didnt have to do it later.
I can also access areas to add battery in back if needed for balancing
I have already notched out the exit holes of the elevator and rudder control linkage to make it easier to find after covering
03-05-2016, 06:51 PM
#43
[QUOTE=MFLOOD3800;1218577
I used purple which is Voodo colors for those of you that might not know.
ehmmmm Tim.
[/QUOTE]
I just thought it was interesting you happened to use the same color of monocote that I had used.
I used purple which is Voodo colors for those of you that might not know.
ehmmmm Tim.
[/QUOTE]
I just thought it was interesting you happened to use the same color of monocote that I had used.
Last edited by tdstaf; 03-05-2016 at 06:55 PM.
