Tsunami
01-19-2002, 03:27 AM
#1
Tsunami
For those that are familiar with the full scale Tsunami which raced at Reno until 1991, here's a photo of a mold that I made. Technically, it is about a .60 size plane, but I put a Webra 1.20 in the 2 protoypes that I have built. Top speed level was about 170mph! In fact, the course that we race it on is too short for the plane and it barely gets up to full speed before it is time to turn. I'll post some more photos up when I get a chance. I'm currently working on a wing mold for the laminar flow wing that this plane uses.
Anyone else made their own scale R/C racers? I want to one day build a good sized Miss Ashley II around the same size as my Tsunami.
Michael
Anyone else made their own scale R/C racers? I want to one day build a good sized Miss Ashley II around the same size as my Tsunami.
Michael
08-15-2002, 05:41 PM
#3
Tsunami
See these threads if you haven't already... Shows wing mold construction which is similar to a fuse.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...84&forumid=113
http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...79&forumid=113
Michaell
http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...84&forumid=113
http://www.rcuniverse.com/showthread...79&forumid=113
Michaell
12-08-2002, 12:52 AM
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Tsunami
Thanks.
What retracts are you using. I am trying to gather as much information on composite racers because i am in the process of designing a Pond racer for two 60´s
What retracts are you using. I am trying to gather as much information on composite racers because i am in the process of designing a Pond racer for two 60´s
12-08-2002, 01:05 AM
#8
Tsunami
I installed Spring Air's in my Tsunami. I really like their retracts. I would think that in a pondracer you would need 100-110 degree rotation on such a model to ensure that the gears go fully up into the fuselages. I am not sure if Spring Air has any that go that retract that far.
Regards,
Michael
Regards,
Michael
12-08-2002, 02:05 AM
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Tsunami
Thanks again.
As you can see below, this plane has the engines pushed way in front of the cg I am gonna get some mechanical retracts because then i can have two extra servos rear of the cg, and it´s more reliable.
As you can see below, this plane has the engines pushed way in front of the cg I am gonna get some mechanical retracts because then i can have two extra servos rear of the cg, and it´s more reliable.
12-08-2002, 06:20 PM
#13
Tsunami
Actually, the rudder and vertical fin are built into the mold. It's a pain to make the way that I do it, but I have to glue in a block of wood when I close the mold up where the hingeline is. When the fuse is out of the mold, I then cut the rudder out along the line and should have an area where I can put hinges into on each side. I could skin hinge it, but never have on the rudder yet. I could also leave the wood out when closing the mold up and put it in afterwards. Either way works.
Michael
Michael
12-08-2002, 06:45 PM
#15
Tsunami
Obviously, I have to sand a bevel on the face of the rudder so that it can move and ensure that the other hinge side of the fin is flat. After getting the correct shape, I then put some resin on it to seal the surface and it'll end up getting painted later.
Michael
Michael
12-08-2002, 07:06 PM
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What glue is it in this pic http://www.rcuniverse.com/attachment...&postid=210295 and what kind of glue did you use to join the wing halves.
12-08-2002, 07:14 PM
#18
Tsunami
What you see in that pic is epoxy mixed with microbaloons and cabosil to help set the stab in place.
The wing halves are joined in a similar manner. I mix cabosil and milled fiber together along with a slow set epoxy (usually 24 hr cure, 45-60 min working time) when I join the wing halves. The mix is applied with a large syringe as a bead around the wing and joint areas.
Michael
The wing halves are joined in a similar manner. I mix cabosil and milled fiber together along with a slow set epoxy (usually 24 hr cure, 45-60 min working time) when I join the wing halves. The mix is applied with a large syringe as a bead around the wing and joint areas.
Michael
12-08-2002, 07:27 PM
#20
Tsunami
See http://www.tapplastics.com/fiberglas...yes/index.html
It'll give a brief description of different types of fillers, etc. Cabosil basically won't run.
Michael
It'll give a brief description of different types of fillers, etc. Cabosil basically won't run.
Michael
12-08-2002, 08:10 PM
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Thanks Mike.
When you lay the gelcoat in the mold, does it have to dry before you lay the fiberglass and epoxy in, or do you put the fiberglass and epoxy in immediately after the gelcoat?
When you lay the gelcoat in the mold, does it have to dry before you lay the fiberglass and epoxy in, or do you put the fiberglass and epoxy in immediately after the gelcoat?
12-09-2002, 09:43 PM
#25
Tsunami
The airfoil is a modified Nasa Langley laminar flow. Not exactly the best for sport flying though. Needs to land and takeoff hot. A lot of pilots would have difficulty with this setup. I would suggest using something more forgiving, expecially on the pond racer.
As for gel coats, If I understand what you are asking when making a fuselage part, I normally put primer or some sort of paint as the outer surface. It has to be fully dry before laying up the remaining parts.
Michael
As for gel coats, If I understand what you are asking when making a fuselage part, I normally put primer or some sort of paint as the outer surface. It has to be fully dry before laying up the remaining parts.
Michael