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  1. #26
    sensei's Avatar
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    RE: Bell Hop Scratch Build

    ORIGINAL: Joystick TX

    Good input.

    I have a few other challenges that are unique. None of the internal structure will be the same.

    My plan is to keep the basic outline and moment arms the same.

    The main fuselage structure, the tail surfaces,Β*and some of the wingΒ*will be built from expanded PVC foam, AKA Β*''Klegecell.'' It requires a lot of thought and planning to get it to work on aircraft. It has no grain and is not very rigid. It is also heavier than balsa or lite ply. This is my second ''big'' aircraft that will use it. The wing loading will be about one-third heavier than theΒ*kits of this size.

    I completed the lofting of the fuselage side and topΒ*and haveΒ*marked theΒ*firewall andΒ*bulkhead locations using the TLAR method.Β*

    The KlegecellΒ*fuselage sides will be skinned with 1/16'' balsa. Now I need to determine if I need to bother with lightning holes at this point to meet my design weight goal of 15 lbs.

    For those of you who never saw this plane, here is the picture from the magazine:
    I am just curious, what is the deciding factor to use the Klegecell over a lighter building material?

    Bob
    Fly It Like You Stole It!!!

  2. #27
    Joystick TX's Avatar
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    RE: Bell Hop Scratch Build


    ORIGINAL: sensei

    I am just curious, what is the deciding factor to use the Klegecell over a lighter building material?

    Bob
    It is cheap and easy to work with, it is also fuel resistant. I started using it many years ago when the price of balsa went out of sight and was hard to get. I could get a 4' x 8' x 1/4" sheet of Klegecell for $20.

    The weight does not seem to be a big issue, so far, my wing weighs 1lb-12oz, without the aluminim wing tube.
    Steve
    Check Six!

    Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.

  3. #28

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    RE: Bell Hop Scratch Build

    You really need to tighten the chain on your saw, lol.

    Bill

  4. #29
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    RE: Bell Hop Scratch Build

    Got the wing saddle rough cut made in the fuselage.

    Progress is slow, but steady.
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    Steve
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  5. #30
    Joystick TX's Avatar
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    RE: Bell Hop Scratch Build



    Received the servos today. Got the HD 1501MG type from Troy Built.



    Decided to add a little more dihedral in the wing. Big job filling in the old wing tube holes and drilling new ones.



    Still working on getting the wing saddle mated to the wing.

    Steve
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  6. #31
    sensei's Avatar
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    RE: Bell Hop Scratch Build

    ORIGINAL: Joystick TX


    ORIGINAL: sensei

    I am just curious, what is the deciding factor to use the Klegecell over a lighter building material?

    Bob
    It is cheap and easy to work with, it is also fuel resistant. I started using it many years ago when the price of balsa went out of sight and was hard to get. I could get a 4' x 8' x 1/4'' sheet of Klegecell for $20.

    The weight does not seem to be a big issue, so far, my wing weighs 1lb-12oz, without the aluminim wing tube.
    You certainly can't get it that cheap anymore so you might want to google a material called Gator board, it can be purchased in 4' x 8' sheets, it's lighter and way more rigid then Klegecell, it has a very thin wood veneer on each side that is very smooth, glueing friendly, and can be covered in Monokote, Ultracote, glass and poly, or Stits covering an paint.

    Bob
    Fly It Like You Stole It!!!

  7. #32
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    RE: Bell Hop Scratch Build

    Thanks, but one of the reasons I like Klegecell is because it is not rigid, it bends easily and cuts like butter. If I need it to be rigid, I can laminate it with fiberglass or wood. Gator board does not meet my requirements.

    This is my last scratch-build. I don't like building like I used to. Seems like nowI like flying way more than building.
    Steve
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  8. #33
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    RE: Bell Hop Scratch Build

    Now at the point where I need to draw out the rudder and elevator outlines full-size. Will use 1/4" x 3/4" balsa to build the parts. Have not decided if I need to "skin" the fixed parts with 1/16" balsayet to add more strength. Leaning toward yes right now.
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    Steve
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  9. #34

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    RE: Bell Hop Scratch Build


    [quote]ORIGINAL: Joystick TX

    After watching the Red Green marathon for the last two weeks. I think I discovered THE SECRETs to build or repair an airplane so fast.

    I've been using the wrong tools. That's why it takes me years to build a plane.

    Here is a picture of me using one that I thinkRed would use to get a nice rounded leading edge.

    No, no, no, this is NOT to get the leading edge to a rough shape, this is the "final finishing". I used an Axe to get the rough shape.

    Okay, not really. But if you must try this at home, check with your doctor first, make sure your life insurance policy is up to date and please wear proper protection, especially a cup. Don't ask me how I know that last part, it hurts just to think of it.
    [/quot

    I see a donor engine for power

  10. #35
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    RE: Bell Hop Scratch Build

    I tested the HD 1501MG servos today. I like to check the centering or  "zero" by adding a 12" pointer to the servo output. The way they center is a little odd. If the sticks are moved quickly they seem to work normally. They center within about 1/4 degree. If the sticks are moved slowly, they center to around 2 degrees, then after a second or two, they jump and center to within 1 degree. I'm not sure what that will translate to during flight, it may not be noticeable to me as a sport flyer, but I would not use them for serious pattern flying.
    Steve
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  11. #36
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    RE: Bell Hop Scratch Build

    Bare bones of the vertical stab and rudder. The stab will be skinned with 1/16" balsa. This part goes pretty quickly. Next will be the horizontal stab and elevator. Not too exciting.

    I also added a 1/8" plywood reinforcement to the last rib on the wing joinertube just to give it some additional support that will not "crush" under the verticalforces on the wing.
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    Steve
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  12. #37
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    RE: Bell Hop Scratch Build

    Got the tail feathers built up. Need to sand the edges next.

    Did some checking on the weight of things to see if it is going to be under or over the design limit. Looks good so far. The wing is 86" and it came in at 2 lbs 8 oz with servos and the heavy (6 oz) wing tube. The fuselage came in at 1 lb 6 oz, need to add the LG, servos, receiver, fuel tank, etc. The tail feathers are 8 oz. The engine and ignition is 2 lbs 4 oz.

    So far, without covering and paint, I can account forabout 11 lbs. Still under the design weight of 15 lbs, but I do need to be careful and watch what I add from now on.
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    Steve
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  13. #38
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    RE: Bell Hop Scratch Build

    Trial fit of the tail feathers.

    Got some wood filler in the wing saddle to get the wing level with the stab. Will add more later after the wing halves are joined together.
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    Steve
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  14. #39
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    RE: Bell Hop Scratch Build

    Got the landing gear mounted. Using the LG from the Great Planes Giant Big Stick ARF. Seems like it will work great. Has some flex that will helpa lot on our grass field.

    Also got the engine firewall bolt holes drilled to get the engine prop shaft centered in the cowl exit. Haven't started work on the cowl yet. Not sure what shapeit will be, could be rectangular or round.Iam leaning toward rectangular since it will be easier to build and I'm getting tired of building. Iwould like to fly this thing this year.
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    Steve
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  15. #40
    Joystick TX's Avatar
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    I'm back. Had to take some time out to figure out some things and battle stage 4 cancer. Feeling well enough to get started on the project again.

    I was stuck for quite a while trying to figure out how to mount the wing and canopy, but a friend helped me with that issue and I have the bolts and magnets all seated now.

    Got the rudder and stab covered with Solartex. Am now working on the ailerons.

    Two years ago, I was really slow at building. Now I'm about 1/4 as fast as then. Still, my goal is to finish this year.
    Steve
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  16. #41
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    Got the big pieces together for a trial fit. Okay so far.

    The cockpit and canopy are held in place with magnets. The wing is held on with 2 ea 1/4" black nylon bolts and 2 ea 3/16" maple dowels.

    I hate to start on the wing covering, it is huge and will be tough for me to do. I think I'll use a lot of small pieces.

    If I don't get burnt out again, I may even finish this thing this year.
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    Steve
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  17. #42

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    It looks fantastic. Glad to hear you have beaten cancer as well. Keep posting up pics of your progress. This is a very interesting build.

    I like to make cowls out of foam then fiberglass them and dig the foam out. I think your plane would look nice if you transitioned the cowl from the hex shape at the rear to completely round or oblong at the prop. Very quick and easy to do. I don't dig the foam out until I've put on a couple coats of primer. It's much easier to sand as a solid. Prime, dig the foam out, make your cutouts, then prime once more and paint.



    Carl
    Dubro 14 oz square tank brotherhood

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlgrover View Post
    It looks fantastic. Glad to hear you have beaten cancer as well. Keep posting up pics of your progress. This is a very interesting build.

    I like to make cowls out of foam then fiberglass them and dig the foam out. I think your plane would look nice if you transitioned the cowl from the hex shape at the rear to completely round or oblong at the prop. Very quick and easy to do. I don't dig the foam out until I've put on a couple coats of primer. It's much easier to sand as a solid. Prime, dig the foam out, make your cutouts, then prime once more and paint.
    Carl
    I haven't thought much about the cowl yet. I want to just get the plane covered and primed then do a maiden flight. I made some mods to the wing and I'm not sure they will work the way I want. This thing may end up in the trash after one flight.
    Steve
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  19. #44
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    Congrats on fighting off the big "C". I hope the battle didn't leave you with too many side effects.

    The model looks fantastic. If in doubt now would be the time to double check all the various airframe alignment directions before you cover it.

    And for once you're sticking the stuff in for flying keep in mind that a nose heavy model might not handle all that sporty but a tail heavy model might only fly once. If you keep that in mind the first flight might not be perfect but at least it'll be the first and not the last.

    Looking forward to seeing a happy end to this thread!
    Witty saying to be plagarized shortly.....

  20. #45
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    Progress has been slow. I don't have the energy to do marathon work on the plane like I used to. I just do it in short spurts.

    When I did the sheeting on the center section of the wing, about a year ago, I left off a strip on the bottom so I could drill the wing hold down dowels from the leading edge to the back of the "D" tube and then glue them in place. I forgot (old age, or chemo-brain?) why I did that and "finished" the sheeting and left the dowels out. Oops, I forgot to drill the wing hold down holes. Rather than tear off the sheeting strip again, I thought I would save time and drill the holes and anchor the dowels inside the "D" tube by injecting a "little" of the Gap Filling Insulation Spray Foam. It really did seem like a good idea at the time.

    The dowels are there to stay, that stuff really holds them in place! I will never inject that foam into any part of a plane again. Problem is, it expanded a little more than I expected. Some of the sheeting puffed up too far to be sanded back to shape. I had to tear that off and dig out the foam. That was only half of the problem. Some of the sheeting actually sank in, so I decided to just fill it in and sand it back to shape. In hindsight, I should have just torn off that sheeting and started over. Filling in the gap in the sheeting has taken several thin layers, a lot of waiting for the stuff to really dry and way too much sanding. I really hate sanding, even with power tools.

    Anyway, the wing center section is finally complete and finished to engineering TLAR standards.

    I used Goop to attach the Aileron servos to the appropriate wing ribs. I would normally use the little rubber grommets, screws, etc. but another side-effect, or two, of cancer is loosing fine motor skills along with patience.

    I hope the wing is ready to cover now.
    Steve
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  21. #46
    Joystick TX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Hancock View Post
    Hi Steve, I'm building Sid's 40inch Bellhop as my first build. Sid's a member of my local club and has been really helpful but that hasn't prevented me making a right mess of it so far. We are dying to see your finished plane but it has been ages since your last post. Have you made any progress? If so, it would be great to see some photos.
    Dave
    Dave, How is your build doing?

    Hope you are all done and enjoying flying a great looking plane.
    Steve
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  22. #47
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    Aileron servos mounted.
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    Steve
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  23. #48
    Joystick TX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joystick TX View Post
    I tested the HD 1501MG servos today. I like to check the centering or *"zero" by adding a 12" pointer to the servo output. The way they center is a little odd. If the sticks are moved quickly they seem to work normally. They center within about 1/4 degree. If the sticks are moved slowly, they center to around 2 degrees, then after a second or two, they jump and center to within 1 degree. I'm not sure what that will translate to during flight, it may not be noticeable to me as a sport flyer, but I would not use them for serious pattern flying.
    I did more testing on the servos. Seems like they don't like the 4-cell NIMH batteries and/or the Futaba receiver, they work fine with the 5-cell batteries and Spectrum receiver. I don't see any creep at all with the new set up.
    Steve
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  24. #49
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    Got the motor mount holes drilled and trial fit the motor to determine where the throttle rod will go.

    Drilled the fuel and throttle holes .

    Mounted the throttle servo, glued in the velcro strips (I use Goop) which are used to mount the fuel tank, batteries, and receiver.

    Going to start covering the wing with Solartex today.

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    Steve
    Check Six!

    Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool.

  25. #50
    Joystick TX's Avatar
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    I finally finished the covering of all the parts. Pictures shows the fuselage partially covered, with the wing covering completed in the background.

    Now all I need to do is finish the last 10% which will take me the usual 90% of the time.

    My plan is to put some blue tape on it so I can tell right side up etc. and do the maiden flight before I finish the details or paint it.

    I need to see if it will fly okay and I'm happy with the performance before I invest any more time or money into it.
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    Steve
    Check Six!

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