Loaded Dice II Build Thread
04-23-2015, 08:29 AM
#51
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Hi Calvin, its a very simple setup with a +/- 12 VDC transformer, fuse, switch and 120VAC dimmer switch. Very close to this:
http://www.charlesriverrc.org/articl...amcutterps.htm
There are lots of designs out there, a quick net search will provide lots of returns.
Yah, re-use those old hockey sticks, eh. W
http://www.charlesriverrc.org/articl...amcutterps.htm
There are lots of designs out there, a quick net search will provide lots of returns.
Yah, re-use those old hockey sticks, eh. W
Aircraft Spruce and Specialty carries an inexpensive 24V transformer (advertised to be used in the Rutan shop) for foam cutting. It also uses a dimmer switch and is similar to Wayne's from what I see. I built mine many years ago now and it still works fine.
The bow on mine is made from a pair of fiberglass rods from Home depot; I'm sure you've seen them- the type that are used for reflectors in yards.
My foam cutter is somewhat hands off based on the fact that any tapered wing planform is a truncated triangle. There is a common center for root and tip arcs for the triangle. Rationing the two is straight forward.
Then using a long stick connected only on one end to the bench. The stick moves down inscribing the triangle in the vertical plane. Connections are made between the stick and the bow wire, the foam husk is located at the proper bench location and the power supply is activated, making a smooth, continuous cut.
FWIW, templates I use are simple firm balsa. Really easy to shape accurately or revise accurately. The edges are lined with sticky back Teflon tape from McMaster Carr. The wire rides along the teflon and simply doesn't stick. The sticky backing works great; the tape is stretched onto each edge and pressed down.
Hopefully someone out there can use these tips to continue the "lost" art of crafting model airplane wings.
04-23-2015, 09:32 AM
#52
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Matt, thanks for that info. Your setup sounds good. Very good in fact. Love to see a photo or better yet a video.
Balsa and sticky back Teflon tape for the templates, I really like that and will try it on my next build.
W
Balsa and sticky back Teflon tape for the templates, I really like that and will try it on my next build.
W
04-23-2015, 09:39 AM
#53
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Matt, is this the tape you are referring to?
http://www.uline.ca/BL_3120/Teflon-Tape?gclsrc=aw.ds
If it works, I'll probably pick some up, but I must say at over $22.00 per roll its a tad on the steep side...
Yah its only Canadian but I get paid in Canadian...
W
http://www.uline.ca/BL_3120/Teflon-Tape?gclsrc=aw.ds
If it works, I'll probably pick some up, but I must say at over $22.00 per roll its a tad on the steep side...
Yah its only Canadian but I get paid in Canadian...
W
04-24-2015, 04:24 AM
#54
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Hi Matt, I see what you mean on using a pivot and placing the wing or stab at the proper distance from the pivot! I certainly would not of thought of that, I have marked both templates into eights and just eyeballed the cut. I have always used ply for my templates and have had no problems, that being said I have only cut a few wings. I remember reading that when your wire is at the right temperature it will squeal while cutting, does this still hold true? It has been over ten years since I have made foam cores but I would like to cut some for an RCM plans "Rodeo" bi-plane. The Teflon tape looks like it should stop any stutters while cutting also.
Calvi
Calvi
04-25-2015, 06:31 PM
#55
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Gonna do me some gluin'.
So I wear my PPE. As one local guru explained to me, the liver is like a sac, and once its full ( of toxins), its full. Then anytime you get near what its full of, you have trouble. Rash, wheezing, dizziness, nausea, death, etc.
So why take a chance... Keep your liver clean...
Oh and by the way, toxins get absorbed through the skin (and eyes) very effectively. Hence the gloves...
OK, getting off the soapbox now...
Anyway, pic two shows how I ensure my gear will never pull out, not without taking half the wing with it.
W
So I wear my PPE. As one local guru explained to me, the liver is like a sac, and once its full ( of toxins), its full. Then anytime you get near what its full of, you have trouble. Rash, wheezing, dizziness, nausea, death, etc.
So why take a chance... Keep your liver clean...
Oh and by the way, toxins get absorbed through the skin (and eyes) very effectively. Hence the gloves...
OK, getting off the soapbox now...
Anyway, pic two shows how I ensure my gear will never pull out, not without taking half the wing with it.
W
04-25-2015, 06:37 PM
#56
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Are we having fun yet?
Yes we are. Having fun that is.
More views of those mini-ribs to reinforce the LG plates. I think they're called scabs. Someone please chime in and let us know.
BTW, like most things in this thread, not my idea, handed down to me by awesome dudes giving their time to show me the ropes.
Just passing it along...
Hope you're enjoying.
W
More views of those mini-ribs to reinforce the LG plates. I think they're called scabs. Someone please chime in and let us know.
BTW, like most things in this thread, not my idea, handed down to me by awesome dudes giving their time to show me the ropes.
Just passing it along...
Hope you're enjoying.
W
04-28-2015, 05:04 PM
#58
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Needed to fabricate something to melt the servo cutout in the wing. One for each side. Seemed to turn out OK. I've seen guys using the trigger-operated soldering guns (like my dad had when I was a kid) for this to very good effect also.
W
W
10-08-2015, 01:24 PM
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Got some wing sheeting done
The horizontal stabs and wings turned out OK.
I use water-base contact cement for the core to wing-skin adhesive. Apply the glue to the foam first because it takes a lot longer to become tacky. Once glue is applied to both surfaces and pretty much dry, carefully position the skin over the core and smooth down. Then back into the foam shucks (sp?) with much weight to keep things together and true.
Lots of tutorials on this all over the net with good variety in successful techniques.
W
I use water-base contact cement for the core to wing-skin adhesive. Apply the glue to the foam first because it takes a lot longer to become tacky. Once glue is applied to both surfaces and pretty much dry, carefully position the skin over the core and smooth down. Then back into the foam shucks (sp?) with much weight to keep things together and true.
Lots of tutorials on this all over the net with good variety in successful techniques.
W
03-21-2016, 09:00 AM
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Canopy
I just received a canopy from Park Flyer Plastics. Great quality, great service, fair prices. Highly recommended.
Anyway, they didn't have exactly what I needed so I bought their Chipmunk Canopy and its very close.
I also pulled the fuse down from the rafters - forgot how looong it is.
After a cross Canada move and a couple of other builds, this bird is now back on the table. Sorry for the delay for those that were following...
W
Anyway, they didn't have exactly what I needed so I bought their Chipmunk Canopy and its very close.
I also pulled the fuse down from the rafters - forgot how looong it is.
After a cross Canada move and a couple of other builds, this bird is now back on the table. Sorry for the delay for those that were following...
W
05-22-2019, 11:22 AM
#64
It appears Wayne never finished this which is a shame as I am building the same at the moment. If your still around Wayne it would be great to hear how you got on with this build!
