Kadet JR Changeling ODO
03-24-2015, 06:12 PM
#1
Thread Starter
Kadet JR Changeling ODO
First a disclaimer of sorts. I work in spurts and for the last year + off and on again due to health reasons, and many moves being basically homeless. So this project may halt for a time or not. beats me. Not sure one way or the other about a roof tomorrow, not yet any way.
I have a couple of planes in storage that I was working on last year. but at the moment they are in the back of storage. So I work on what I can. I built a new wing with plug in tips last month for an airplane who's wing did not survive the trip from Texas. The plug in tips got me to thinking how cool it would be to just plug wing panels in and change a plane around.
So I started working on an idea to return my Kadet JR to flight with a bit of a new twist. The plane was built from plans, crashed and a new fuse built sense everything else survived. (thus the scratch build forum)
The plane got set aside after I took all of the goodies out and off for other projects. The above mention plane being one of them.
But I have all ways loved the Kadet JR (this is my 3rd one), cheap on fuel and fun to fly, will spin like a top. All of mine have had ailerons and reduced by halve dihedral.
Working on an idea to return my Kadet JR to flight with a bit of a new twist.
I recently built a new wing from scratch for another plane, that has plug in extension tips using plywood joiner that slide into a joiner box at the ends of the wing. I really like it. It was a bit of a learning curve. But I thought it had future applications.
So that got me to thinking, and that is all ways a very dangerous thing.
I really like the JR. Cheap on fuel and fun to fly, will spin like a top.
Why not make new wing panels for my JR. Make a new center section, that is only as wide as the fuse, and bolts in place of the original wing. Make a pass through joiner box on the spar, that joiners just snugly pass through into matching joiner boxes on the inner end of new wing panels.
By changing from straight to bent joiners The dihedral can be change to any angle desired. Also additional wing can be made that use different airfoils, symmetrical comes to my mind immediately.
And while I am at it add a pass through joiner box at the bottom of the fuse. I can then go from high wing to low wing. In fact the possible configurations are numerous.
High flat bottomed wing with dihedral of any angle by cutting new joiners to that desired angle. Also can be done low wing.
High symmetrical wing dihedral of any angle by cutting new joiners to that desired angle. Also can be done low wing.
Gear blocks for wing mounted main landing gear when in low wing configuration, flat or symmetrical wing.
We (wife and I) have been streaming Star Trek DS9 from Amazon Prime. Started at season 1 episode 1, and are now in season 5. So that adds to the insanity raging in my head. Kadet Jr is going to become; ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
wait for it
A Kadet JR Changeling named Odo
Ken
I have a couple of planes in storage that I was working on last year. but at the moment they are in the back of storage. So I work on what I can. I built a new wing with plug in tips last month for an airplane who's wing did not survive the trip from Texas. The plug in tips got me to thinking how cool it would be to just plug wing panels in and change a plane around.
So I started working on an idea to return my Kadet JR to flight with a bit of a new twist. The plane was built from plans, crashed and a new fuse built sense everything else survived. (thus the scratch build forum)
The plane got set aside after I took all of the goodies out and off for other projects. The above mention plane being one of them.
But I have all ways loved the Kadet JR (this is my 3rd one), cheap on fuel and fun to fly, will spin like a top. All of mine have had ailerons and reduced by halve dihedral.
Working on an idea to return my Kadet JR to flight with a bit of a new twist.
I recently built a new wing from scratch for another plane, that has plug in extension tips using plywood joiner that slide into a joiner box at the ends of the wing. I really like it. It was a bit of a learning curve. But I thought it had future applications.
So that got me to thinking, and that is all ways a very dangerous thing.
I really like the JR. Cheap on fuel and fun to fly, will spin like a top.
Why not make new wing panels for my JR. Make a new center section, that is only as wide as the fuse, and bolts in place of the original wing. Make a pass through joiner box on the spar, that joiners just snugly pass through into matching joiner boxes on the inner end of new wing panels.
By changing from straight to bent joiners The dihedral can be change to any angle desired. Also additional wing can be made that use different airfoils, symmetrical comes to my mind immediately.
And while I am at it add a pass through joiner box at the bottom of the fuse. I can then go from high wing to low wing. In fact the possible configurations are numerous.
High flat bottomed wing with dihedral of any angle by cutting new joiners to that desired angle. Also can be done low wing.
High symmetrical wing dihedral of any angle by cutting new joiners to that desired angle. Also can be done low wing.
Gear blocks for wing mounted main landing gear when in low wing configuration, flat or symmetrical wing.
We (wife and I) have been streaming Star Trek DS9 from Amazon Prime. Started at season 1 episode 1, and are now in season 5. So that adds to the insanity raging in my head. Kadet Jr is going to become; ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
wait for it
A Kadet JR Changeling named Odo
Ken
Last edited by flyingagin; 03-24-2015 at 06:33 PM.
03-24-2015, 06:18 PM
#3
Thread Starter
I am starting this mod by first making a center section for the wing joiners to go into. I actually have to raise the wings (high wing position) about a 1/2" or so. I started by making a lite ply plate to join to the fuse bottom. I will cut litening holes into to reduce wight. Then three ribs, outer 2 of light ply with some birch ply where the joiners will put loads onto the center section.
Sense the symmetrical foil is thicker than the flat bottom I have to compensate in several ways.
There is some complexity in this mod but I THINK I have them figured out at this time.
I am doing the center joiner section first as it has several complexities that I have to solve before the bottom joiner fuse doublers are added.
I am trying hard not to mod the fuse in any way. That may be tough at the windsheild area. With the joiner section sitting higher, I have to find some way to blend that (and the back) in.
Last picture is what I am starting with. The wing will not be used or touched in any way.
Basically It will get 2 pair of new wings to either go high wing or low wing.
Ken
Sense the symmetrical foil is thicker than the flat bottom I have to compensate in several ways.
There is some complexity in this mod but I THINK I have them figured out at this time.
I am doing the center joiner section first as it has several complexities that I have to solve before the bottom joiner fuse doublers are added.
I am trying hard not to mod the fuse in any way. That may be tough at the windsheild area. With the joiner section sitting higher, I have to find some way to blend that (and the back) in.
Last picture is what I am starting with. The wing will not be used or touched in any way.
Basically It will get 2 pair of new wings to either go high wing or low wing.
Ken
03-24-2015, 06:18 PM
#4
Thread Starter
Tested the fail point of the ply joiners. They fail way to soon. So Will try adding some other materials.
Pretty simple test method. Cut a piece of stock to length, fuse width (3") plus 2 rib bays (4"). Put 3" in a vice supported by wood both sides and then pressed down at a point 4" (inner support rib point). With out much pressure the wood started to crack,I could hear it start to fail. I tried some 1/4" luan (floor underlay) and a piece of 1/2" birch aircraft ply.
The test pice was 5/8" thick, the width between the spars of the flat bottom wing.
My thought was to test simply by hand pressure. If it survived that then hang known wights on the joiner to quantify the actual loads the joiner would take. Aim is to take 10G's. I don't know the actual wight of the plane, just guessing a high wight of 4lbs (likely three). 4lbs at 10G's is 40lbs and each joiner only bears halve the load. So figured if the joiner could take a 20lb load then good to go.
Will try some aluminum in the middle of the joiner. I have a 2.5 meter glider that uses that type of joiner. And it works fine. Will do the same type of test for the rib reinforcements that will bear the joiner loads.
And I thought 1/4" A/C ply would do the trick. Sure glad I tested.
If my approach to load testing is wrong. please jump in and tell me.
I will continue to make the lite ply joiner ribs until I test joiners further. Just won't box myself in with the full joiner rib construction.
Ken
Pretty simple test method. Cut a piece of stock to length, fuse width (3") plus 2 rib bays (4"). Put 3" in a vice supported by wood both sides and then pressed down at a point 4" (inner support rib point). With out much pressure the wood started to crack,I could hear it start to fail. I tried some 1/4" luan (floor underlay) and a piece of 1/2" birch aircraft ply.
The test pice was 5/8" thick, the width between the spars of the flat bottom wing.
My thought was to test simply by hand pressure. If it survived that then hang known wights on the joiner to quantify the actual loads the joiner would take. Aim is to take 10G's. I don't know the actual wight of the plane, just guessing a high wight of 4lbs (likely three). 4lbs at 10G's is 40lbs and each joiner only bears halve the load. So figured if the joiner could take a 20lb load then good to go.
Will try some aluminum in the middle of the joiner. I have a 2.5 meter glider that uses that type of joiner. And it works fine. Will do the same type of test for the rib reinforcements that will bear the joiner loads.
And I thought 1/4" A/C ply would do the trick. Sure glad I tested.
If my approach to load testing is wrong. please jump in and tell me.
I will continue to make the lite ply joiner ribs until I test joiners further. Just won't box myself in with the full joiner rib construction.
Ken
03-24-2015, 06:20 PM
#5
Thread Starter
The problem with any type of ply is that some of plies are 90 degrees to the direction needed for max strength in this type of application.
5 ply A/C has 2 the wrong way. and there are much stronger woods for the plies in this application
I will get a small piece of maple and cut it into 1/16" or thinner layers for laminating. I think I can bend it by steaming at the bend point.
Set the laminates into a mold and let dry.
By adding some of the carbon fiber cloth I have at the outside (or maybe more correctly top and bottom?) of spade joiner or maybe on the inside of the first maple laminate I should end up with a strong enough spade joiner.
I could eleminate the steaming and the bend in the molding process by just making the joiner thick enough to cut my angle into it. Seems that would not be as strong.
Ken
5 ply A/C has 2 the wrong way. and there are much stronger woods for the plies in this application
I will get a small piece of maple and cut it into 1/16" or thinner layers for laminating. I think I can bend it by steaming at the bend point.
Set the laminates into a mold and let dry.
By adding some of the carbon fiber cloth I have at the outside (or maybe more correctly top and bottom?) of spade joiner or maybe on the inside of the first maple laminate I should end up with a strong enough spade joiner.
I could eleminate the steaming and the bend in the molding process by just making the joiner thick enough to cut my angle into it. Seems that would not be as strong.
Ken
03-24-2015, 06:56 PM
#6
Hey Ken, I'm in! Interesting idea, you have.
03-24-2015, 07:20 PM
#7
Thread Starter
Thanks Dave, good to see you
It is more like out of my mind
But it should be a learning experience
I hope to apply what I learn here to my SR. I have a set of rib templates all ready made for it. But that is down the road a few miles yet.
Ken
It is more like out of my mind
But it should be a learning experience
I hope to apply what I learn here to my SR. I have a set of rib templates all ready made for it. But that is down the road a few miles yet.
Ken
03-25-2015, 10:35 AM
#11
Thread Starter
Your right EJ. This thing is all in my head.
Here are some pics of the wing for the plane I built the new wing for. The spade joiners for it are 1/8" Birch ply. The are epoxied on one end to the plug in tips. So they are of a fixed dihedral.
But in for this plane (Odo) the wing panels themselves will plug in via spade joiners. And the spade joiners will not be glued to any thing, but rather will plug into the wing and the fuse. That way by using a different spade joiner I can change the dihedral.
I will draw up a (usable?) drawing today and post it.
But I intend to orient the 1/16" maple strips in the same plane as the wing is. That is why they will require steaming and bending to the desired dihedral. I use 2 or 3 strips of carbon on the inside of the outer maple strips. Think of the as ply wood in a horizontal plane. But a course all ply will be in the same direction.
I am at the laundry mat at the moment. Got a bunch of things going on after. So it may be a day or 2 before I can upload the promised drawing.
Ken
Here are some pics of the wing for the plane I built the new wing for. The spade joiners for it are 1/8" Birch ply. The are epoxied on one end to the plug in tips. So they are of a fixed dihedral.
But in for this plane (Odo) the wing panels themselves will plug in via spade joiners. And the spade joiners will not be glued to any thing, but rather will plug into the wing and the fuse. That way by using a different spade joiner I can change the dihedral.
I will draw up a (usable?) drawing today and post it.
But I intend to orient the 1/16" maple strips in the same plane as the wing is. That is why they will require steaming and bending to the desired dihedral. I use 2 or 3 strips of carbon on the inside of the outer maple strips. Think of the as ply wood in a horizontal plane. But a course all ply will be in the same direction.
I am at the laundry mat at the moment. Got a bunch of things going on after. So it may be a day or 2 before I can upload the promised drawing.
Ken
Last edited by flyingagin; 03-25-2015 at 10:40 AM.
03-25-2015, 11:01 AM
#12
Thread Starter
Hi Mike. Glad to have you aboard.
My intent is to make 3 sets of spade joiners for each wing. 0 dihedral, full dihedral of a stock JR, and halve the dihedral of a stock JR. Since the tow wing are of different thicknesses and likely will be stressed differently in flight (harder aerobatics) the spade joiners will be thicker (top to bottom).
I hope I have made my idea more clear with my last post. But as soon as I can I will post some drawings that should clear some of the mud in the water.
It is really nothing more in concept than plug in wings for a Kadet JR. But execution is going to the challenge. And really the only big change there is the darn spade joiners. There are a couple of other areas that will need some work and thought. But I think I all ready have the solutions for them.
One area that needs some thought and work is the wing and fuse junction. Since there will be different dihedral angles depending on which spade joiners are used there will be some unsightly gaps at anything other than zero dihedral. That will need fillers to get an attractive fit at the fuse / wing junction.
Ken
My intent is to make 3 sets of spade joiners for each wing. 0 dihedral, full dihedral of a stock JR, and halve the dihedral of a stock JR. Since the tow wing are of different thicknesses and likely will be stressed differently in flight (harder aerobatics) the spade joiners will be thicker (top to bottom).
I hope I have made my idea more clear with my last post. But as soon as I can I will post some drawings that should clear some of the mud in the water.
It is really nothing more in concept than plug in wings for a Kadet JR. But execution is going to the challenge. And really the only big change there is the darn spade joiners. There are a couple of other areas that will need some work and thought. But I think I all ready have the solutions for them.
One area that needs some thought and work is the wing and fuse junction. Since there will be different dihedral angles depending on which spade joiners are used there will be some unsightly gaps at anything other than zero dihedral. That will need fillers to get an attractive fit at the fuse / wing junction.
Ken
03-25-2015, 12:36 PM
#14
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Gotcha!
I imagined the joiners being vertical in the wing spar (1/8" tall, 'X' long) but wasn't sure. When you secured the joiners in the vice, were they vertical, and you were applying the load, downward, and vertically? If so, I can't imagine the ply starting to fail without a *lot* of force. Also, the joiner will supported by its slot.
Will you just have a wing center section shim of the applicable dihedral?
Again, interesting project, and thanks for taking us along.
I imagined the joiners being vertical in the wing spar (1/8" tall, 'X' long) but wasn't sure. When you secured the joiners in the vice, were they vertical, and you were applying the load, downward, and vertically? If so, I can't imagine the ply starting to fail without a *lot* of force. Also, the joiner will supported by its slot.
Will you just have a wing center section shim of the applicable dihedral?
Again, interesting project, and thanks for taking us along.
03-25-2015, 03:48 PM
#15
Thread Starter
EJ I had the ply lams in the vertical plane. I did not try horizontal as I #1 did not think of it. And #2 It would make dihedral difficult, I think
I made some real simple drawings in paint (not enough brain cells for more sophisticated tools).
The black is maple lams and the red is 2 or 3 layers of carbon. I will go out gauge it later. It is a fairly thick cloth though.
Straight joiner and tapered joiner with lams in the horizontal plane
I have been doing my SOME of my homework and a typical spade joiner is tapered on both ends. Cuts weight a lot, nearly halve.
Now here is where I may need to be corrected (so feel free please). The taper does not loose any strength as the stress is concentrated at the fuse wing junction (blue arrow).
Now if tapering the ends does not cost strength, why not orient the lams in the vertical plane? One heck of a lot easier to make as no steaming and bending required. The only negative I can see is the carbon fiber lams are not in the ideal orientation.. Has to be some loss of strength but maybe not enough to justify the more difficult horizontal lam orientation. And then I would be cutting away much of the carbon fiber lam. A flat bottom wing is going to see a lot more positive G,s than negative. It is the bottom carbon lam that is most needed. The symmetrical wing would likely see a lot of negative. G's so needs the carbon top and bottom.
Any comments on how you would orient?
No work done today other than brain work, and a busy day tomorrow. But back to it in a day or 2.
Any way after I fab a joiner I intend to test it to destruction, unless I run out of ability to add more weight.
I will build joiner pockets to put the join in before testing as part of my test rig. Pockets cut into a 2 x 4, yep as simple as I can. For measured weights, I will hang buckets of water from the wing end of the joiner pocket. 1 gallon is about 8Lbs. Good enough. A realistic weight for the plane is 3Lbs. And just as WASG (wild ass sophisticated guess) 10 G's seems a reasonable top load factor. At least for a flat bottomed wing. Maybe more for a symmetrical wing. But if it has the same tail I fail to see how.
Ken
I made some real simple drawings in paint (not enough brain cells for more sophisticated tools).
The black is maple lams and the red is 2 or 3 layers of carbon. I will go out gauge it later. It is a fairly thick cloth though.
Straight joiner and tapered joiner with lams in the horizontal plane
I have been doing my SOME of my homework and a typical spade joiner is tapered on both ends. Cuts weight a lot, nearly halve.
Now here is where I may need to be corrected (so feel free please). The taper does not loose any strength as the stress is concentrated at the fuse wing junction (blue arrow).
Now if tapering the ends does not cost strength, why not orient the lams in the vertical plane? One heck of a lot easier to make as no steaming and bending required. The only negative I can see is the carbon fiber lams are not in the ideal orientation.. Has to be some loss of strength but maybe not enough to justify the more difficult horizontal lam orientation. And then I would be cutting away much of the carbon fiber lam. A flat bottom wing is going to see a lot more positive G,s than negative. It is the bottom carbon lam that is most needed. The symmetrical wing would likely see a lot of negative. G's so needs the carbon top and bottom.
Any comments on how you would orient?
No work done today other than brain work, and a busy day tomorrow. But back to it in a day or 2.
Any way after I fab a joiner I intend to test it to destruction, unless I run out of ability to add more weight.
I will build joiner pockets to put the join in before testing as part of my test rig. Pockets cut into a 2 x 4, yep as simple as I can. For measured weights, I will hang buckets of water from the wing end of the joiner pocket. 1 gallon is about 8Lbs. Good enough. A realistic weight for the plane is 3Lbs. And just as WASG (wild ass sophisticated guess) 10 G's seems a reasonable top load factor. At least for a flat bottomed wing. Maybe more for a symmetrical wing. But if it has the same tail I fail to see how.
Ken
Last edited by flyingagin; 03-25-2015 at 04:08 PM.
03-25-2015, 06:07 PM
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Hey Ken,
I re-read the thread, and understand your goal of being able to change the dihedral of the Jr's wing by changing wing spar joiners. By your description and the pics in post #11, I can see that the joiners are 1/8" ply, right? In post #15, are you proposing replacing the ply joiners with joiners that are laminated from maple and carbon fiber?
Sorry for the baby-steps on my part.
I re-read the thread, and understand your goal of being able to change the dihedral of the Jr's wing by changing wing spar joiners. By your description and the pics in post #11, I can see that the joiners are 1/8" ply, right? In post #15, are you proposing replacing the ply joiners with joiners that are laminated from maple and carbon fiber?
Sorry for the baby-steps on my part.
03-25-2015, 08:33 PM
#17
Thread Starter
You are right on EJ. I know I could have been more clear to start with, but I just tend to be that way, even when I try not to be.
The 1/8 ply was fine the plane in post 11, not a lot of stress there. But these joiners are going to have to take a whole lot more for sure. I figure they must be able to handle 15 - 20 Lbs of loading in order to not fold a wing in flight.
I hope my being so technical is not a bore, but I really get a charge out of such things. The wife becomes semi comatose if I go into such details with her. Well not really. She tries.
I plan on getting some maple by the weekend and making sawdust and sticky messes.
Ken
The 1/8 ply was fine the plane in post 11, not a lot of stress there. But these joiners are going to have to take a whole lot more for sure. I figure they must be able to handle 15 - 20 Lbs of loading in order to not fold a wing in flight.
I hope my being so technical is not a bore, but I really get a charge out of such things. The wife becomes semi comatose if I go into such details with her. Well not really. She tries.
I plan on getting some maple by the weekend and making sawdust and sticky messes.
Ken
03-26-2015, 06:24 PM
#19
Thread Starter
And like I have any experience Mike? But that is what make it so darn fun to me. It is the engineering that sucks me in.
But what I learn I will apply to my Kadet SR. and basically also convert it to a bit of a changeling. Just on new wing for it though.
The rib templates all ready made. But it will be a good while before I start that project. I have some unfinished ones to complete first
.
Ken
But what I learn I will apply to my Kadet SR. and basically also convert it to a bit of a changeling. Just on new wing for it though.
The rib templates all ready made. But it will be a good while before I start that project. I have some unfinished ones to complete first
.
Ken
03-26-2015, 06:26 PM
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I laminated a carbon fiber/balsa/carbon fiber joiner for my Sig Komet, but it is adhered in place. I don't think simply securing the ply in the vise is an accurate test of failure, sine the joiner is inside a pocket,as it were, which provides support.
03-26-2015, 06:57 PM
#21
Thread Starter
I 500% agree about the vise not being a fair test. I will build up from scrap ply or and a 2 x 4 a test rig that accurately mimics the joiner pockets. I knew it was't fair when I did the original test. It was just the fast easy way at the time. I am sure the vise stressed the test piece, and the pockets should provide some support and distribute loads better.
Today was a busy day, so I did not even turn the lights on in my little build area.
Hoping tomorrow to get in 2 or 3 flights on my control liner in the adjacent park. Hopefully no cops show up to tell me I can't. I started to go today but the whole area was closed down by more cop cars than I thought the town owned. CSI's Coroners, and the whole bit. No place I wanted to get near.
Ken
Today was a busy day, so I did not even turn the lights on in my little build area.
Hoping tomorrow to get in 2 or 3 flights on my control liner in the adjacent park. Hopefully no cops show up to tell me I can't. I started to go today but the whole area was closed down by more cop cars than I thought the town owned. CSI's Coroners, and the whole bit. No place I wanted to get near.
Ken
03-26-2015, 07:55 PM
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Hey, even the Big Boys have to demonstrate their productions to failure. Not sure if you've ever seen this vid of the wing spar test of the Boeing B-777:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ai2HmvAXcU0
Carry on.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ai2HmvAXcU0
Carry on.
03-27-2015, 04:17 AM
#23
Perhaps you have addressed it, and maybe I missed it. But, how are you going to hold the wing halves against each other and tight to the fuselage. Will the wing halves each have a forward dowel and bolted trailing edge, or bolts fore and aft? I am enjoying your build and look forward to the progress and final flights. Thanks for your postings.
sincerely, Richard
sincerely, Richard
03-27-2015, 08:10 AM
#24
Thread Starter
Hi Richard Nice to see you here.
I will use anti rotation pins, small dowels at the trailing edge. The inner wing rib will by necessity be light ply.
To retain the wing halves I have some flexible plastic that is about 1/16" thick. I salvaged a little from one of those cone collars that the vet puts puts one dogs after they have had surgery. It appears to be pretty tough stuff. Attach a strip to the fuse with a screw and then secure the other end to the wing the same way.
And hey: it is eco friendly. I recycled a dog con collar
On the wing in post 11 I used small piano wire with 2 loops twisted into the ends. A screw at each end then retains the tip panel.
When I am not actually out building, much of the time my mind is racing and brainstorming solution. Or how to do something, or sequence. Planes on the brain. Any one else like that?
Ken
I will use anti rotation pins, small dowels at the trailing edge. The inner wing rib will by necessity be light ply.
To retain the wing halves I have some flexible plastic that is about 1/16" thick. I salvaged a little from one of those cone collars that the vet puts puts one dogs after they have had surgery. It appears to be pretty tough stuff. Attach a strip to the fuse with a screw and then secure the other end to the wing the same way.
And hey: it is eco friendly. I recycled a dog con collar
On the wing in post 11 I used small piano wire with 2 loops twisted into the ends. A screw at each end then retains the tip panel.
When I am not actually out building, much of the time my mind is racing and brainstorming solution. Or how to do something, or sequence. Planes on the brain. Any one else like that?
Ken
03-28-2015, 06:04 PM
#25
Thread Starter
No progress till Monday. Went to Castle air force base museum today for a guided tour. To much standing and walking. Both of ou backs are screaming.
Makes me think a modified for 2 electric chair might be the ticket.
But it was great.
Oh and went to fly my little control line trainer with 2.4ghz for throttle yesterday. I have to have throttle control these days. Get the dizzies real easy with the meds I am on. Well never even got the lines hooked up right. One broke with no strain on it at all. I use spectral fishing line these days. Love it. But abrasion is not it's strong suite. It looks like I have a rough spot on handle guide.
So no crash since it happened so early. Just shows I don't always have it figured out or done right.
And when I got home look was wateing for me. I found a crack in the left gimbal of my radio a couple of weeks ago. So a really wonderful guy (Truckracer) saw my post asking for fix suggestions and sent me another super seven and a ST .40 engine plus some really nice goodies for the TX
Yeah I have not made it to 2.4 YET
Hoping Monday to get some work done. Or maybe some drafting tomorrow.
Ken
Makes me think a modified for 2 electric chair might be the ticket.
But it was great.
Oh and went to fly my little control line trainer with 2.4ghz for throttle yesterday. I have to have throttle control these days. Get the dizzies real easy with the meds I am on. Well never even got the lines hooked up right. One broke with no strain on it at all. I use spectral fishing line these days. Love it. But abrasion is not it's strong suite. It looks like I have a rough spot on handle guide.
So no crash since it happened so early. Just shows I don't always have it figured out or done right.
And when I got home look was wateing for me. I found a crack in the left gimbal of my radio a couple of weeks ago. So a really wonderful guy (Truckracer) saw my post asking for fix suggestions and sent me another super seven and a ST .40 engine plus some really nice goodies for the TX
Yeah I have not made it to 2.4 YET
Hoping Monday to get some work done. Or maybe some drafting tomorrow.
Ken
