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Kadet JR Changeling ODO

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Old 03-28-2015, 09:55 PM
  #26  
EJWash1
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Originally Posted by flyingagin
So a really wonderful guy (Truckracer) saw my post asking for fix suggestions and sent me another super seven and a ST .40 engine plus some really nice goodies for the TX
That's really great! I really like hearing about modelers helping modelers.
Old 03-30-2015, 08:56 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by flyingagin
No progress till Monday. Went to Castle air force base museum today for a guided tour. To much standing and walking. Both of ou backs are screaming.
Makes me think a modified for 2 electric chair might be the ticket.
But it was great.

Oh and went to fly my little control line trainer with 2.4ghz for throttle yesterday. I have to have throttle control these days. Get the dizzies real easy with the meds I am on. Well never even got the lines hooked up right. One broke with no strain on it at all. I use spectral fishing line these days. Love it. But abrasion is not it's strong suite. It looks like I have a rough spot on handle guide.
So no crash since it happened so early. Just shows I don't always have it figured out or done right.

And when I got home look was wateing for me. I found a crack in the left gimbal of my radio a couple of weeks ago. So a really wonderful guy (Truckracer) saw my post asking for fix suggestions and sent me another super seven and a ST .40 engine plus some really nice goodies for the TX



Yeah I have not made it to 2.4 YET

Hoping Monday to get some work done. Or maybe some drafting tomorrow.

Ken
There is nothing wrong with using a well made reliable FM radio. I am fortunate to have FM and 2.4 radios and plan on to continue using both unless my youngest son moves out and takes one of Dad's radios with him!
Old 03-30-2015, 09:45 AM
  #28  
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When I have the spare change I will put a FRSKY DFT -FUTABA TRANSMITTER TELEMETRY MODULE in. RX are super cheap and have S Bus. I have a plane with four servos in the wing all on the own change. Talk about a pain to keep all the cables correct at assembly time.
Old 03-30-2015, 07:38 PM
  #29  
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Busy morning then stated messing with the new engine.
Had a blast.
Started breaking in the engine today. Had a heck of a time finding a secure place to mount the engine. Finally took my table saw of a table on the back patio and clamped a mount up there. First hit was with out the muffler or even a fuel tanked hooked up. Just a good prime. Just wanted to see if it would bark. And bark it did. The German Shepard took off for the far side of the yard. So then Finnish with a tank hook up and a full tank. HS Needle at 4 turns. Muffler on. Started right up at 1/4 throttle. As soon as I advanced the throttle do gone again. Some watch dog. My little Shih Tzu is braver. Ran a few tanks nice a rich, slowly inching up on the needle.
I had closed that side of the house while running it. About the third tank the yard looks like it has a grey fog in it. No dog to behold. Then as I am starting to hit a rich 2 stroke and back off, my wife comes out and tells me to stop. Dang it. It is starting to sound like it wants to sing. She said I set off the smoke alarm in the house. I thought that was really funny. She was not amused. Women!
Any way it sounds like it is going to be strong.

I have not had to time to play with the radio yet other than throw the battery from the other radio in it. I did charge up (while running the engine) a ni mh battery from my control line handle/radio. Now I can transfer the programming over.

Yeah I was smiling big today

I will be getting supplies Wednesday. Tomorrow draft spade joiners. I think I can get the straight joiner to be able to flip and give a little dehedral. Gota make a test jig for that though.

Ken
Old 03-31-2015, 02:47 AM
  #30  
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Setting off the smoke alarms, that's funny!

So, what you do now is send her out to the other side of the state for ***ANYTHING*** your mind can come up with - only one place in the whole world has it and you need it for the plane, and can't leave to get it yourself. Oh! Wait! Got one better - tell her there's a sale going on at Kohls. Shoot man, you won't see her for a week!!!

THEN, you show that darn ol' smoke alarm what it was made to detect.
Old 03-31-2015, 05:43 PM
  #31  
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It has been busy and that is with no appointments, jeez.

But I made some measurements and transferred those to wood as templates. Well I need to do it again. I think the normal dihedral and halve are correct. But I tried to set one up at 1/2" dihedral. I am pretty sure I screwed it up. Have not done one yet for zero dihedral, but a 1/2" is really close and will not give it that drooped wing look.
But any way here is what I have for templates so far.



I have been brainstorming how to cut the 1/16" maple lams. I think I will try to rig up a jig for my band saw miter. It is a bit complicated. Succeed or fail I will post it.
EJ, cutting thees lams just might be your forte.

Ken
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Old 03-31-2015, 08:15 PM
  #32  
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I've used a taper jig on table saw cuts, and see no reason why the same can't be used on a bandsaw. You have an advantage, in that the bandsaw blade will be cutting a vertical kerf, where a tablesaw blade, being circular, leaves an arc.

If it were me, I'de still cut the joiners slightly oversize, and sand-back to the desired dimensions.

There's no such thing as "fail" in woodworking, there's just more firewood - Ha!
Old 03-31-2015, 08:25 PM
  #33  
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Thanks EJ
I will use some cheap fire wood before using maple firewood.

Ken
Old 04-01-2015, 09:07 AM
  #34  
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It's funny how we save even the most teeny-tiny scrap of wood/metal, because we may be able to use it - someday! LOL!

Years ago, there were plans in a woodworking magazine for a mobile scrap wood bin (24"X16"X16", if memory serves). What a great idea, I thought, and built one. I would save cutoffs, and smaller pieces of exotic woods. When I sorted through it last Spring for our move, I was handling wood scraps that I hadn't touched since I tossed them into that bin - twenty-plus years prior! Yes (hanging my head) a fair amount of it followed me up here to the new shop. But, ya know, I may NEED IT someday!

Hey, a new acronym for hoarders: IMNT - I MIGHT NEED THAT! ('em-nent) "Don't throw that away, that's IMNT!"

I forgot to ask. Are you laminating two 1/16" ply joiners together?
Old 04-01-2015, 02:03 PM
  #35  
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I still have a small (now) box of scrap balsa and odds and ends from 30 years ago. Some wood I had to toss. It got rodent nibbled.

No Ply in the spade joiners. The cross grain is useless strength wise. It will be the same direction of grain, even the carbon fiber cloth is uni directional and will be aligned with the grain of the maple lams. All a course span wise.

To late and tired at this point (been running my mother around) to do anything.
But never to late to nap.

Ken
Old 04-02-2015, 03:58 PM
  #36  
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I love it, I'm not the only one "Odoing" a Jr. While I find your project intriguing, I decided to go a little more "inside the box". Am building mine with no dihedral, a 54" span with barn door ailerons, longer rudder and split counterbalanced elevators. My plan is to do away with landing gear and install a pair of floats so, to me anyway, a larger wing and control surfaces is almost a requirement
Old 04-02-2015, 07:48 PM
  #37  
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My fuse is all ready built and flown. So it is the wings (2 sets) that will get the Odoing. At least at first. I am thinking about stretching the flat bottomed wing a bit. But not the symmetrical one.
I have not had a chance to even scratch my own fanny the last few days. So no progress at all.

Hey Hydro Got pics or a thread. Feel free to post 'em here.

Will be in Sacramento tomorrow. Getting some wood.

Ken
Old 04-04-2015, 05:58 PM
  #38  
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Nope, no pictures or anything since it's been a while since I've had the chance to touch anything R/C. Work has kept me very busy so building has had to take a back burner
Old 04-05-2015, 06:59 PM
  #39  
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Understand that Hydro

Other things like lots of moving have kept me busy.

Oh here are the first set of spade joiner drawings I can accept. it took 2 days of trying to get these. Don't ask. A real simple case of oxygen deprivation induce by Head up nether regions I think.


A little faint sorry about that

I can also taper the fuse part just like I can the wing part for more wight reduction. I do need to use some light wight filler to make the fuse joiner pocket work for both sets of wings. Vertical grain balsa with a ply cap would do.

Ken
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Old 04-06-2015, 11:58 PM
  #40  
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I figure I'll worry about that when I get back to work on the Jr. I figure that won't be for a while with all the other projects I have to work on, both on and off the "honey do list"
Old 04-08-2015, 06:19 PM
  #41  
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I have a stack of 24 1/16" balsa ribs rough cut for stack shaping. 3 sheets of 3" x 36" 1/6th balsa.
I have to also make 4 light ply ribs. Those will get doublers of birch and 1/8" plate carbon fiber. I just check my supply of cast off pieces that form my inventory, Plenty. And that will still leave enough for a control line bell crank I need to build.

There are also ply end ribs for the center section done just like the other ribs.

I Still have not picked up the darn Maple. They only had much longer boards than I needed. I was short on time or I would have tried to get on cut down.

Ken
Old 04-08-2015, 07:09 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by flyingagin
I Still have not picked up the darn Maple. They only had much longer boards than I needed. I was short on time or I would have tried to get on cut down.
Not sure if you have a woodworker's supply store near you (Rockler, Woodcraft) but they usually have a bin with "cut-offs", which are the end cuts from longer boards (12"-20"ish). What dimensions are we talking here?
Old 04-08-2015, 08:10 PM
  #43  
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I only need a 1 foot length by any thing from 2" to 6".
The joiners will only be 7.5" long. Plus a little more length for clamping to the ripping fixture.

I used to go to a store like that in Sacramento. I only make 1 trip a month to Sac now (90 minute drive).

My wife was sick today so I stayed close to home as much as I could.

Heck I sat in bed and cut each rough (oversize) rib in bed with her, while we watched you tube videos.

I have been trying different ways of cutting the rib blanks for stack shaping on the last few planes. I used to cut oversize rectangles and then bolt in between my masters. WASTEFUL. Then I tried fitting each blank for the best use of wood on a sheet. Efficient, but I did have a few undersized blanks. so not so efficient. This time I mad a third template about 1/8" oversize. Found it made zero difference this time for sheet usage. Just the shape and size of the ribs did not play any better one way or the other. But I bet when I make the symmetrical ribs it will.

I just tend to hunt for a slightly different way hoping for a better way on projects.

Ken
Old 04-09-2015, 04:30 PM
  #44  
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I don't know what happened to my last post, yesterday.
The short of it I made the rough cut and 1/8" all the way around rib blanks, 24 of them.
I sat on the bed with my wife as she was sick I used a 1/8" oversize template to cut each blank out. That earned browning points, maybe.

So today I bought a 5.5" x 12" x 3/4" piece of maple.
Will rip off a 2" piece and then start ripping that on edge into 1/16" strips.

And today I finished the ribs. Well the flat bottom ribs anyway.The symmetrical will come at a later date.
Bella had to sniff them until they made her sneeze.

Ken
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Old 04-10-2015, 05:23 AM
  #45  
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And I see the inspector was by to check your work too!
Old 04-10-2015, 07:50 AM
  #46  
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When I was cutting the rough ribs out of the sheets, her first thought was " Oh boy something new to bite ". A gentle no and then it was lots of sniffs. After I finished the ribs and brought them in for her approval, she took a couple of sniffs and then broke out sneezing. Never did say if they met with her approval, I suspect not. Inspector Bella loves doing her job at our feet.

These will become all of the cap strip material Waste not want not

Ken
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Old 04-10-2015, 07:58 AM
  #47  
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Waste not want not! I recycle the trimming all the time, balsa is just too expensive to waste.
Old 04-10-2015, 08:28 AM
  #48  
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Got that right for sure.
The 3" wide sheets I used were only $1.50 at the HS in Sacramento. The 4" sheets were a buck more. I KNOW WHAT THEY WERE SMOKING WHEN PRICE STAMPING!
I will say though that the wood was good quality. I would not want to use any lighter a wood for ribs or sheeting the D tube, and center sections.

Other than the joinery structural parts should be light wings.

Ken
Old 04-10-2015, 06:24 PM
  #49  
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Gone all day today, but hoping to work with the maple tomorrow. I will show in pics how I cut my little strips of maple OR FAIL TO.

I am going to test a piece that is a 1/4" wide. From PM's with EJ I am really convinced the wing itself will fail before the sample of maple does.

Will also show my primitive test methods.

Ken
Old 04-11-2015, 03:01 PM
  #50  
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I ripped a narrow strip of maple on my little band saw. In truth it needs a new blade, 2 year one the OEM supplied blade now.
The saw struggled badly.
So I then set up the table saw and ripped a wide enough to piece to make a joiner with the most angle + spare, 1.25"
Then I turned it up right and ripped it into two 1/4" strips.
Had fun. The German Shepard beat feet for the farthest end of the yard. Coward. I told him even Ferengi have more courage than that. Bye the way as an aside we just finished the whole series (DS9) last night. 7 seasons in 2 months.

Next I test the 1.25" x 1/4" strip> I put my full body wight on it. That's a lot, really it is. No give at all.
So then on to cutting the 1/4" stock down to a working sized joiner 1/4" x 5/8". 4" plus some fudge on the end and another 3 plus fudge on the fuse end. Made a small notch so as not to be chasing my water bucket all over the joiner.

Well first I had to move the vise to a corner and fasten it down better. Should have been done from the get go.

So then after all of my thinking on this I proved just how much of a doofus I can be. I did not test the bucket for holes. Yep it had a big one, water all over the place. Jeez.
So new bucket. What a maroon
Locked the joiner (fuse end) down so that only the wing section was free of the vice. I was trying to load it just like it would be in flight. All the stress will be felt at the fuse / wing junction. Also I set it so a I could gauge deflection with a straight edge.

I added 11.25 quarts of water till I got to 23.7 lbs ( I thought it was 22.5 lbs). Water being 8.35 lbs a gallon. I added a quart at a time. My memory was off, and I did not fact check before proceeding. I recalled water being 8 lbs not 8.35 lbs a gallon. Works for more safety factor.

I am guessing a typical JR weighs about 3 lbs. Does any one know? Dave?

At 22.5 lbs of load on the joiner, equals 15 g load if the wight guess is correct. ( i don't have a scale for checking this). I am figureing the G's spread across the 2 wings, so one half of the total wight is born by each wing panel. 22.5 lbs per wing panel.
I do not believe that a 15g load can be generated even with a hard pull out from a high speed dive. On that I could have my head entirely up my nether regions.

Other than having to clean up the water spill I had a blast.


Joiner laying flat to show it's depth. The same as between spars.

Clamped up and zero deflection.

Just a hanging bucket of water, 23.7 lbs of water! Really exiting ain't it?

!/16 inch of deflection with 23.7 lbs hanging from the end.


I did press down with my body a bit more at the end of the testing.

DANG EJ. You sure called it correct. Give your self a pat on the back for me. Even thin maple is way stronger than the rest of the plane is.

Ken
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