lagCisco

for parts like fuse forms, wing ribs and other shaped parts do you guys just trace the image on the balsa then cut with a razor blade? or scroll saw or what?

im ready to start building my plane just wondering what everyone else is doing and also thinking about getting a scroll saw..

Danh4

My Feedback: (5)

If your formers are all balsa you could probably get away with cutting them by hand. The plane I'm building now has formers of 1/8" ply so I bought a scroll saw to cut them, it worked great. I transfered the shapes to the wood using a method I read about here. I used an office copier to make a copy of each former, then just dampened the ply with laquer thinner and laid the copy face down on the wood. A little light rubbing and the toner from the copy transfers to the wood perfectly. You need to compare your copies with the plans first though, the copier may distort the image.

Dan

BadEnglish

I just got into scratch building and after a few models I've found a method for cutting balsa that works well for making the wing ribs. I rough cut them well outside of the desired shape. I then pin them together (there is probably a better way than pins) then sand them as one block to the desired shape. With them still together I cut any notches required. They come out near perfectly identical. I just cut out the other balsa parts by hand which works OK for my pusposes.

Hope this helps

CafeenMan

I cut ribs for a constant chord wing around a plywood form. For a tapered wing, I use the "sandwich" method. That basically involves cutting a plywood root rib and a plywood tip rib and sandwiching the balsa ribs between them. Then carve and sand them to shape.

I cut formers either with a table saw or a scroll saw. I used to do it by hand, but now I have the tools to do it faster and more accurately.

BTW - a Scroll Saw is about the most versatile tool you can have and probably the first power tool you should purchase.

Mark Winstanley

If you have done all your design in CAD you can get one of the many laser cutters to cut out the parts for you. This way, when you finally decide to kit the plane you know all the pieces will fit. I think most laser cutters will do 1 offs.

BMatthews

Xacto knife for up to 1/4 and a small band saw for over. Plywood is either the bandsaw or hand saws for small jobs.

lagCisco

can someone recommend a scroll saw?

runover1

My Feedback: (10)

I bought a Dremel 2 speed scroll saw at a yard sale with about 30 blades for $35.00. It works great, Good Luck. If you buy one new, the light is a great addition.

patternwannabee

My Feedback: (1)

I rough cut with a Band saw or Scroll Saw, then shape it with a 10" disc sander from Micro-Mark.

If the lines on the plans are thin, it's easy to get a very accurate edge. I can shape 2 identical formers, then when laid side to side, I can barely tell the difference. Maybe about 1/128" accuracy.

Easily the most accurate for me. Unfortunately, it's good for only <5" edges. Saving the $$ for a 12" or bigger.

Shane B

My Feedback: (3)

I use a scrollsaw for most all my cutting ,,, I did scollsaw art for many years,,I have been through about 10 in the last 12 years,, what ever you buy ,you need to kake sure you get one that takes "plain end blades" because you can get better sizes and better blades ,, i use a 16" craftsman for most of my cutting ,, but to me the best is an RBI , but it is very expensive ,, craftsman also has some very good blades for what we cut with our saws ,, anyone wants some good blade sizes let me know...

Rocketeer10

I much prefer a band saw over a scroll saw. I have an old AMT 14 inch bandsaw i got at a tag sale. New blade and new guides and it cuts great. I use a spray adhesive to bond the patterns to the wood and then cut and sand to the line. "Post it" brand of spray adhesive is easily removable. better than 3M Spray!
GY

eagle4

does anyone have any tips on how to cut perpendicular using a blade? i find that i cant cut straight down through a piece of balsa, i keep either going in or out which makes my join not as they should be... any suggestions

eagle4

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

I find making a couple extra copies of the plan, cutting the parts out with scissors, spraying 3M #77 on the back and laying it on the wood to be cut is the easiest method for getting close with the saw then I just sand to the lines or to fit as required.

lagCisco

whats the difference between band and scroll saws?

what other powered tools do you guys use for scratch building?

still trying to figure out what to get, more recommendations please!

mac49

My Feedback: (5)

The band saw and the bench mounted scroll saw do pretty much the same thing for making cuts on the outside of parts. The scroll saw blade can be passed through a hole and do the insided cuts; impossible with a bandsaw. A scroll saw does much finer cuts but cuts slower. A scroll saw that uses pin-less blades is the best to get. I prefer my 9” band saw because I'm mostly interested in giant scale, the formers and parts are much larger. You can mount a fence on the band saw and cut sticks. For balsa there are tools for cutting off sticks form planks ¼” and smaller.
I also use a small router to trim the inside of parts. You can finish them off by using a bench sander to sand them to your marking lines. An oscillating spindle sander would really be nice to have to help with the smaller parts. Maybe in the future.
I like to cut my own sticks so I use a full size table saw with a thin kerf (1/16”) blade. I cut a lot of different woods (fir, pine, spruce, poplar, maple, etc). I have a 16” band saw (2” blade) I use to slab off planks of balsa. I buy 2X3 balsa planks to cut up. It’s not as pretty as what you can purchase, but I do a lot of sanding anyway.
The more tools you have the more uses you find for them. Your wife won’t believe you but you can save money if you own them to cut your wood instead of buying it.

dicksonhoff

What use to work the best was my ban saw you can get a pretty good one for under $100. at menards. Now i scan the part on my computer, scale the part to any size, then i send it to my home made cnc and walla. The prodject i'am working on now is cutting out 12" ribs and glueing them to my empty monokote role tubes . I'am thinking about building a giant knife. not sure yet. These ribs are very percise and are made from pink foam. I could build a very good cnc for about $1000.00 But you still have to download the software to run your machine. Remember
you still have to draw your parts on some kind of cad system. I pencil draw the part scan it . then vectorise it. then i have to trace over the part in cad because the lines have to be cleaned up. The cnc will fallow exactly what is on your blue print.....Have fun.