Plans Transfer to Wood
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Plans Transfer to Wood
What's the best way to transfer the ribs and such from plans to the wood for cutting on a scratch build? Cut up the plans then copy? Trace on seperate piece then transfer to wood? Copy the plans then cut up copy? Throw it out and buy a kit [>:]
TIA,
Jay
TIA,
Jay
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RE: Plans Transfer to Wood
I also would like to hear what the best technique would be.
the oldest technique which ancient artist used was make tiny pin holes along
the lines on paper and put it on top of the wood and use black powder filled
little bag to tap on the paper, which will leave nice pin hole outlines on the wood.
obviously, you want to use copy rather than original to do this.
however, this technique would be to tedius.
or just send the plan to laser cutter? too expensive.
the oldest technique which ancient artist used was make tiny pin holes along
the lines on paper and put it on top of the wood and use black powder filled
little bag to tap on the paper, which will leave nice pin hole outlines on the wood.
obviously, you want to use copy rather than original to do this.
however, this technique would be to tedius.
or just send the plan to laser cutter? too expensive.
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RE: Plans Transfer to Wood
If you can find Xerox machine that will copy at 100% (CHECK THIS and don't ask how I know that they don't all copy at 100 when they say 100, lol) you can make copies and then transfer them by placing the copy face down on your wood and ironing with your covering iron set high. You can usually get at least two "prints" from a copy.
#4
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RE: Plans Transfer to Wood
You can also photocopy the parts, cut them out and then use 3M's temporary spray adhesive and glue the paper to the balsawood. You now have about as accurate a template as you're going to get. The iron the photocop works well, too.
For tapered wings, you use the temp adhesive to glue two pieces of balsa sheet together, glue on the parts cutout and go to town with the scroll saw and sander. I use a scroll saw to get close, and then use a belt or disc sander to get to the final outline. Usually, you want to leave the barest hint of the printing left on the part. The thickness of the line can change parts fit tremendously if you're not careful! (ask me how I know!)
Even after you've cut out all of the parts, the outlines will sometimes still be incorrect, and you'll be adjusting the shape and fit of the various parts on the fly as you build the model. All plans are not created equal. Many plans will have an occasional part that's too large or too small, and you'll have to make adjustments.
bax
For tapered wings, you use the temp adhesive to glue two pieces of balsa sheet together, glue on the parts cutout and go to town with the scroll saw and sander. I use a scroll saw to get close, and then use a belt or disc sander to get to the final outline. Usually, you want to leave the barest hint of the printing left on the part. The thickness of the line can change parts fit tremendously if you're not careful! (ask me how I know!)
Even after you've cut out all of the parts, the outlines will sometimes still be incorrect, and you'll be adjusting the shape and fit of the various parts on the fly as you build the model. All plans are not created equal. Many plans will have an occasional part that's too large or too small, and you'll have to make adjustments.
bax
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RE: Plans Transfer to Wood
Bax,
The 3M adhesive spray is an interesting way around the issue. My old lady has some of that stuff for scrap booking so I'll steal her can and do that. Making Xerox's of the plans will suck but I guess that's life...better to use copies than the original one's I've purchased.
Thanks a bunch all,
Jay
The 3M adhesive spray is an interesting way around the issue. My old lady has some of that stuff for scrap booking so I'll steal her can and do that. Making Xerox's of the plans will suck but I guess that's life...better to use copies than the original one's I've purchased.
Thanks a bunch all,
Jay
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RE: Plans Transfer to Wood
Here's what I do.
I got ahold of and old binder made of that flexible plastic. Then used some paper to trace out parts from the original plans, then cut out all the parts from the paper I traced, then I traced that onto the plastic and cut out all the parts with a scissors. I then layed the plastic parts over the original plans and trimmed to ensure an exact match.
Then use the plastic rib to trace onto wood with fine black pen as many as you need. Ribs, formers, firewall, etc can all be traced onto the wood with these plastic copies. The nice thing is the plastic copies can be kept and more parts made later, and will last longer than using thin cardboard etc. Carbon paper works fairly well also.
Patriot
I got ahold of and old binder made of that flexible plastic. Then used some paper to trace out parts from the original plans, then cut out all the parts from the paper I traced, then I traced that onto the plastic and cut out all the parts with a scissors. I then layed the plastic parts over the original plans and trimmed to ensure an exact match.
Then use the plastic rib to trace onto wood with fine black pen as many as you need. Ribs, formers, firewall, etc can all be traced onto the wood with these plastic copies. The nice thing is the plastic copies can be kept and more parts made later, and will last longer than using thin cardboard etc. Carbon paper works fairly well also.
Patriot
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RE: Plans Transfer to Wood
Stick with the 3m spray ,, cut the plans up glue to your wood and cut your parts out ,, I have been doing scroll saw art for many years and thats how all scroll saw artis do the fine cuts you see,, once done peel off the paper, if it dont want to come off heat it a little with a hair drier ,,, Some of the spray glues work a little to good, i have found one that Wal-Mart and some craft stores that worcks alot better ,,, i will post the name of it when i go back in the shop ....
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RE: Plans Transfer to Wood
Jay:
Why don't you try this:
With your computer, scanner and inkjet printer.
Walmart sells the paper for making T-shirt Transfers used to iron onto T-shirt material.
Altho I haven't used it, I suspect it would for your purpose.
Fold your plans and scan the parts, ribs, etc, that you want to transfer to the balsa sheet. Then print these on the T-shirt transfers and iron them on. Most scanners/printers can be used as a copier.
If you try this, I would like to know how you made out.
feihu
Why don't you try this:
With your computer, scanner and inkjet printer.
Walmart sells the paper for making T-shirt Transfers used to iron onto T-shirt material.
Altho I haven't used it, I suspect it would for your purpose.
Fold your plans and scan the parts, ribs, etc, that you want to transfer to the balsa sheet. Then print these on the T-shirt transfers and iron them on. Most scanners/printers can be used as a copier.
If you try this, I would like to know how you made out.
feihu
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RE: Plans Transfer to Wood
Ok, this is getting out of hand. Feihu, no offense, but wouldn't it just be cheaper to print the copies on regular paper with your inkjet printer than to go to Walmart and buy iron on transfer material? It's probably less messy, I would think, to cut paper with a scroll saw than to cut that iron on plastic stuff. I could see the iron on stuff not coming off real well on the wood. Doesn't it melt with heat? I would think it would melt into the balsa leaving me with permanently ironed on balsa. I think I'll stick to copying the prints, and tacking it down to the balsa with some light spray on glue like the 3M stuff.
-- just my 2 cents
Jay
-- just my 2 cents
Jay
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RE: Plans Transfer to Wood
I trace 'em on tracing paper, then use a couple spots of rubber cement to glue it to the stock. After it's cut out, the rubber cement is easy to remove. Just rub it with your thumb, comes right off.
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RE: Plans Transfer to Wood
This has got to be the easiest method there is.
This is what you have to do, print the plans, cut the ribs out and lay them on the wood (upside down), then get you covering iron and set it at very hot, just go over the paper a couple times and the ink will stick to the wood.
When you're done, remover the paper and lay the wood on a flat building board, put some weight on top of it and let it cool down (this way the wood doesn't bend)
Hope you understand it.
This is what you have to do, print the plans, cut the ribs out and lay them on the wood (upside down), then get you covering iron and set it at very hot, just go over the paper a couple times and the ink will stick to the wood.
When you're done, remover the paper and lay the wood on a flat building board, put some weight on top of it and let it cool down (this way the wood doesn't bend)
Hope you understand it.
#12
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RE: Plans Transfer to Wood
I do what Pete does. Most reliable method. I've done the copy routine and discovered the scaling problem, although small, does affect the building and fit of parts. In most cases its minor and just an inconvienence to deal with. You stick the tracing paper on the wood with just a light dusting of 3m77 spray adhesive. I also use the spray adhesive to do stack cutting on the band saw. Just dont leave the parts stuck together too long.
Edwin
Edwin
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RE: Plans Transfer to Wood
OK....I can't tell you the best way but here is what I do. I ordered some plastic from www.seetemp.com
I place the seetemp over my plans and trace with a fine point sharpie marker. Then I score the lines on the seetemp with a blade. Once scored you can bend the seetemp and it breaks away at the score line. Then I use that as a stecil/tamplate to trace onto the wood. I use this method for all my parts....not just ribs. Then if I build another plane or have to do repairs the tamplates are already done.
For wing ribs I trace onto 1/4" plywood. I make two ribs. For the actual ribs I sandwich a bunch of layers in between the two plywood parts. I usually put rubber cement between each sheet to hold them still. I drill a couple holes and bolt the whole thing together. This way I can cut/sand/form all the ribs at once(as long as they are all the same). I learned that method from another RCU post...works great.
Good luck,
-Rocko
I place the seetemp over my plans and trace with a fine point sharpie marker. Then I score the lines on the seetemp with a blade. Once scored you can bend the seetemp and it breaks away at the score line. Then I use that as a stecil/tamplate to trace onto the wood. I use this method for all my parts....not just ribs. Then if I build another plane or have to do repairs the tamplates are already done.
For wing ribs I trace onto 1/4" plywood. I make two ribs. For the actual ribs I sandwich a bunch of layers in between the two plywood parts. I usually put rubber cement between each sheet to hold them still. I drill a couple holes and bolt the whole thing together. This way I can cut/sand/form all the ribs at once(as long as they are all the same). I learned that method from another RCU post...works great.
Good luck,
-Rocko
#14
RE: Plans Transfer to Wood
You can also make templates easily from a plastic template material called "See-Temp".
Link: www.seetemp.com (note: page is a bit slow to load)
Just lay it over your plans or parts, trace around the outline, score it with an X-acto knife, and bend it at the score line. It will snap easily and cleanly. You can write on the material easily and store it (flat) for future use. It is fairly inexpensive, and I use it for all my projects in case of "gravity attacks".
Regards,
Al Parry - "Eaglewatch"
[email protected]
Link: www.seetemp.com (note: page is a bit slow to load)
Just lay it over your plans or parts, trace around the outline, score it with an X-acto knife, and bend it at the score line. It will snap easily and cleanly. You can write on the material easily and store it (flat) for future use. It is fairly inexpensive, and I use it for all my projects in case of "gravity attacks".
Regards,
Al Parry - "Eaglewatch"
[email protected]
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RE: Plans Transfer to Wood
I have had good luck using freezer paper. It is paper on one side and a light plastic film on the other. You can trace your part on the paper side, cut it out and then. using your monocoat iron, iron it onto your wood. It sticks but peels off easily.
For smaller parts. I cut the paper into the appropriate size for my inkjet, then I print out parts I have scanned and cut them out. pap
For smaller parts. I cut the paper into the appropriate size for my inkjet, then I print out parts I have scanned and cut them out. pap
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RE: Plans Transfer to Wood
check out how we did it, its in the first page.........
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Ziro...1282843/tm.htm
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/Ziro...1282843/tm.htm
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RE: Plans Transfer to Wood
Here's my method.....buy tracing paper, also sold as carbon paper. I buy mine for dirt cheap at the local art store (which happens to be across the street from the lhs). '
You first cut a piece as large as the sheet of wood. Tape it to the wood, colored side down. Then, you simply take your plans, put them over top, and go over the lines using a blunt object. I prefer to use a sailor's marlinspike. Or, you may use a pen, just make sure you don't mess up your plans too badly. When you pull off the carbon paper, you'll have nice gray lines to follow with your X-Acto knife. Good luck, Andrew
You first cut a piece as large as the sheet of wood. Tape it to the wood, colored side down. Then, you simply take your plans, put them over top, and go over the lines using a blunt object. I prefer to use a sailor's marlinspike. Or, you may use a pen, just make sure you don't mess up your plans too badly. When you pull off the carbon paper, you'll have nice gray lines to follow with your X-Acto knife. Good luck, Andrew