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Sheeting Liteply with 1/16 balsa... how??

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Old 10-19-2004, 09:54 PM
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les2097
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Default Sheeting Liteply with 1/16 balsa... how??

Hi,

I working on building some planes that have liteply solid fuse sides (no swisscheese)...

I would like to put 1/16" balsa on the outside of the liteply...

What would be the best way to adhear the balsa to the liteply?? White glue? Contact cement? Carpenter's yellow glue?? Or...??

Thanks guys,

Larry
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Old 10-20-2004, 07:55 AM
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Default RE: Sheeting Liteply with 1/16 balsa... how??

Larry,

Good question cuz I'm about to do the same. I would like the fuse sides to be 1/16 balsa and 1/32nd ply.. the other guys in my club said that TiteBond yellow glue would do just fine.... I have not tried this yet so I too would like to hear from the Universe guys.
I stopped into a woodworking store and they told me that either Titebond or Gorrila is what the cabinet workers use. Not sure on the Gorrila glue for our application.
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Old 10-20-2004, 10:58 AM
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Default RE: Sheeting Liteply with 1/16 balsa... how??

Quote:
I stopped into a woodworking store and they told me that either Titebond or Gorrila is what the cabinet workers use. Not sure on the Gorrila glue for our application.
Gorilla Glue, and other polyurethane "foaming" adhesives, are a waste of money in our hobby. I'm sure the proponents of those adhesives are lighting their pilot lights "as we speak", but the simple fact is that ordinary wood glues (Titebond, Elmers, etc.) form a bond that is stronger than the wood itself - a properly made up aliphatic resin (Titebond is aliphatic resin) wood joint will fail in the wood, not in the adhesive. I don't see the sense in spending money for advanced adhesives that are twice as strong as aliphatic resins when aliphatic resin bonds are stronger than the materials it is bonding together.

The only 'secret' to using aliphatic resins is clamping pressure. Titebond has a 30 minute clamp time, after which the joint can be safely handled and manipulated short of machining or stressing - those operations need full cure.

Arm yourself with some means to clamp the wood bits together and Titebond will form joints that will outlive the wood in your model. I quit using CA decades ago because of allergic reactions, and don't use anything but original formula Titebond and small amounts of epoxy in special cases - my models only break after completion of a Figure 9 maneuver.

Lastly, Titebond II and III are not worth the extra cost in our hobby - both are formulated for water resistance, and one of the things we try to do is keep our models dry.

I do, anyway.
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Old 10-20-2004, 01:04 PM
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Default RE: Sheeting Liteply with 1/16 balsa... how??

I've built several models using balsa/lite ply laminations for the sides. I use 3M 77 spray adhesive. I usually cut away several sections of the lite ply for weight savings and then before gluing the fuselage sides to the formers, I run a bead of thin CA around the openings in the ply to really glue it to the outer balsa! I did this on a Mile M-18 scale model and it worked out really well. no delamination at all.
GY
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Old 10-20-2004, 01:13 PM
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Default RE: Sheeting Liteply with 1/16 balsa... how??

My first question is why?

The bulk heads and cross ties for servos should all be secured to the ply -- lite or not. I can see 1/16" or 1/32" ply on the inside of 1/8" to 1/4" balsa but just can't see doing it the other way for structural reasons. Most common appication of lite ply and balsa is to use the lite ply on the front half of the fuse sides and the balsa on the back with hard balsa or even spruce stringers.
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Old 10-21-2004, 12:15 PM
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Default RE: Sheeting Liteply with 1/16 balsa... how??

While the aliphatics will work fine, watch out for warps. Unless you weight down the pieces while they dry (cure) they will warp. If you are very careful to put on a really thin coat, epoxy works very well and will not warp. If you put it on thin enough, there is negligable weight gain and you still get a good joint.
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Old 10-21-2004, 03:08 PM
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Default RE: Sheeting Liteply with 1/16 balsa... how??

I used the following technique in my first plane (Bridi T20, still flying) to glue the internal ply ine the fuse: I aplied a thin coat of carpenter glue (white glue) in both faces and let them dry for two hours. Them I joined the ply to the balsa side and press it with a regular iron, soft heat. It works fine, it is still in place, no warps whatsoever and very light. Hope it helps.
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Old 10-21-2004, 06:42 PM
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Default RE: Sheeting Liteply with 1/16 balsa... how??

martinoto...

It seems to me that in two hours the glue would be very dry... with a thin coat...

So you're putting balsa onto lite ply... glue face to glue face... then ironing the balsa or the lite ply...??

Does the hot iron cause the carpenter glue to become liquid again...??

Larry
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Old 10-22-2004, 09:07 AM
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Default RE: Sheeting Liteply with 1/16 balsa... how??

Larry,

I don't know what actually happened between the ply and balsa (in terms of physics or chemical reaction).
Truth is it worked fine.

Yes, the glue was totally dry at the time I joined the two parts. And I remember (this was done in '81...) that it did not need much ironing time, just a little press. I guess the heat does something to melt the glue somehow, but it is just that, a guess...

It was a thin coat, but I care to cover the whole area. The glue I used was Pica.

I also did the cap strips the same way, regardless the little area available to work, and it also worked well.

I think the tip came from Flying Models or RCM, because it was my primary source those days.

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Old 10-22-2004, 05:20 PM
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les2097
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Default RE: Sheeting Liteply with 1/16 balsa... how??

Thanks Martin...

I'm going to give it a test on some scraps and see how it comes out...

I'll all know...

Larry
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