skystar

that picture is a picture I take from the build log on page 18; so it's not my fuse greetzz

khelsea

Rich, Did you figure out what Skystar was talking about in post 493? Lanny

rgunder

Looks like I missed that one. Thanks for the heads up Lanny.

On the lower wing, W9 is placed inverted (tabs up) and is doubled by W9A. Here are a few pictures that may help.

Rich

skystar

sorry form my bad english, ill try!!
oke rgunder thats a good picture, I did it the same...
have you got any other close up pictures from te plane?? If u send them I can place them in an online album if u want... Im verry intrested. today ill try to fix the wing on the fuse

weigt of the wing without the parts where the screws go trough 450 gram...

Timbba

I just played with Gimp image editor and put picture of Aeroworks 50cc Pitts Python behind this Spirit of Pitts plan. Aeroworks Pitts' elevator is quite a lot bigger than on these drawings. Maybe for 3D use we could make larger elevs... Also rudder is little bigger on Aeroworks pitts

skystar

hmmm it is.... I have an funtanax100 same wing span, does verry well 3D. the elevator is the same as from the pitts, rudder is longer but little bit (less higher)..

so I'll try the normal elevator and rudder with lots of trow and if it's not so good Ill make new ones a bit bigger( is a quick and easy build...)
it's about this pitts??? http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...rticle_id=1002 (steal some good ideas) but if you look at the elevater, the part that move's is not so big as you think... look at the picture

the lower wing fits perfect on the fuse now!!! tomorrow finish the wing complete and starts the cowl or canopy hatch....

Hydro Junkie

Not sure why, but something about an ARF Pitts just seams wrong to me. Maybe it's the fact that ARF's have such a bad rep from the early ones that hit the market

rgunder

I am biased, but I think that building is the only way to go. Why let the guys at the factory have all of the fun (balsa dust, CA fumes, etc...)?

skystar

quick question. the alu struts from fuse to the upper wing, how thick are they??? I can get some main rotorblade's from a heli in carbon fiber length 45cm, breedte 40mm and 30mm

the 30mm is 3/4 mm thick... the 40mm is 5/6mm thick... mayby I can use this

skystar

just for the picture.

khelsea

Skystar is your cannister tunnel back in their again? Larry is shipping out my new MT50 w/cannister today. Can't wait. Lanny

happyfly2008

Yes Skystar, the cannister tunnel seem interesting, can you post a picture from the inside firewall and from the fuse underside ?
Ciao [8D]
Mauro

khelsea

and straight on the rear end of the tail Tnx, lanny

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

Can anyone tell me if the bottom wing has any dihedral? Top looks flat and the bottom looks flat in some pics and in other not.

rgunder

Hi mrbigg. Both wings, top and bottom, are flat.

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

Sweet. A friend of mine is thinking of doing a profile version. I'm contemplating a smaller profile myself with a Super Tigre .90 converted to gas. Maybe one the same size as the Carl Goldberg Ultimate and a $210 XYZ 26 for power is tempting also. Santa is bringing me the Cox Arf. I don't usually do ARFs, but it's on sale for $425 including the shipping. I've scratch built two big profiles. An Ultimate and an Edge 540. The Ultimate was done blowing up Sig's plans and the Edge was done using foam core flying surfaces for a 40% Carden. Both have build threads- "Huge Ultimate Build" and "Carden Profile"

khelsea

Rich, Just a couple of questions,There is 6 pcs of 3mm by 100mm by 24in sheet balsa, front fuse and removable hatch sheeting from F! thru F6?
12mm balsa wing leading edges?
10mm square balsa for all tail feathers?
Aileron and elevator and rudder triangle stock is not supplied? Not a problem as I can get it locally.
I'm really hard into this build now and don't want to sit in the moaning chair too much. With what I've seen so far in this kit if you had done one before I think you could have it framed up in a day. Really goes together quick and straight. Thanks, Lanny

rgunder

Hi Lanny,

Yes, the 3mm sheeting is included to cover the cowling and hatch back to F6. That is if you choose to build a wood cowling in addition to the fiberglass one.

Right again. The 5mm x 10mm balsa is also used in the tails.

The triangle on the rudder and elevator leading edges is actually a 5mm x 10mm balsa strip that has been beveled to the angle. There is sufficient 5mm x 10mm stock included in the kit for the leading edges of both the rudder and elevator in addition to the other areas where it is used in the tail.


Let me know if you have any more questions.

Cheers,

Rich

khelsea

Sorry for another question Rich, Althought the guide doesn't mention it and it doesn't reflect in the plans is it possible that on the bottom wing ribs WB1,2 ,3 where WS2 mounts should be installed upside down to allow better alignment to fuse mounting plate F9 or just drill the mounting bolts at 90 degree angle to WS2 and tap F9 at an angle. Thanks Lanny

rgunder

No problem Lanny, I am sure that others have the same question, and an interesting question it is. The ribs are symmetrical, so you can mount them upright or inverted. There are good reasons to do both. From an alignment perspective you are better off inverting the ribs, whereas mounting the ribs upright places the wing (ribs and upper skin) between the bolt plates (albeit at a poor angle). If you choose to mount the ribs inverted, I would make doubly sure that WS2 is bonded well to the ribs and the upper skin since the bond will be in tension rather than compression.

All you builders out there... How did you opt to mount WS2?

Cheers,

Rich

khelsea

Rich, I finally decided that drilling the bottom plate at a rightangle thru the top plate at an angle would work well and if you decide to put in metal bolts and a nutplate it could be builtup to take care of the angle. The ply rib sandwich will certainly handle the compression and give good support. One point I would like to make about Rich. Someone tell me what kit manufactuer can you post a question on a Sunday afternoon and get an answer 20 mins later!! Great support Rich This is getting to be a fun build. Thanks, Lanny

Timbba

Suggestion: Glue some tubes through the wing as guides for the bolts, then cut "donuts" from plywood and glue them to tubes with epoxy and microballoons so that they are on right angle...


here are links to picures how a friend of mine and I made it on our F3A planes.

http://www.ee.oulu.fi/~tutanska/enigma334.jpg
http://www.ee.oulu.fi/~tutanska/0040.jpg


ummh... there were not good pictures of what I mean but hope those pic help...

kevin pelletier

My Feedback: (2)

hi guys just a quick question are you supposed to drill the wing alignment holes in both of the f2 formers

khelsea

The wing already being done and the drilling being done on final setup up after all construction completed and final total alighment step is what I gather.

WALKERS210-RCU

My Feedback: (36)

One question about landing gear block. I have looked the plans over both on computer and printout, there is not a specific part number for the LG block and only a general reference on drawing. From what I can see it looked like it was using the lower main frame as mounting point. Could someone give a different prospective on this.