SPOILERS - HOW DO I FABRICATE
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SPOILERS - HOW DO I FABRICATE
How do I fabricate a set of spoilers? I have had a lot of input at to where I can go to buy them ready made, but I feel that I want to do the whole thing from scratch. The WS is 96" and overall is a gull winged configuration from the early 1940's. From what I have been able to read up on them, it is best to rig them together with flaps. I've made lots of elevators & flaps but no spoilers. Q. Do I start the whole thing in a box with a flap going up or do I (somehow) have an element go straight UP. If I do that, how would I make the connections to the servo?
marwen
marwen
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RE: SPOILERS - HOW DO I FABRICATE
Graupner makes vertically moving blade type spoilers.
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/spoilers.htm
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/spoilers.htm
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RE: SPOILERS - HOW DO I FABRICATE
The "old traditional" way of doing spoilers for models is a flap that hinges up into the air on the upper surface. Typically you cut away a bit of the ribs so there's a rectangular area that you sheet around and leave a slightly smaller rectangle open to the wing's insides. Into that you add a spoiler panel to fit the rectangle and hinge at the leading edge. Then arrange a pull line to lift the spoiler up. Closeing the spoiler was done with a spring, rubber band or a small weight. Of course if you use a weight then you can't fly upside down. I've also seen where some folks use a small magnet to hold the spoiler closed. If you do this and use a rare earth magnet be sure to pad it with something so the closeing action is not TOO strong. The advantage of using a line instead of a direct pushrod is that the servo can overtravel slighty to the closeing side and there's no chance of the slack line holding a spoiler open slightly.
The material of choice for many designs was trailing edge stock. But when I've done mine I've used a very stiff panel made from a sandwich of two layers of 1/64 ply with 1/16 balsa between. This sandwich was laminated and clamped over the wing until cured/dried so it holds the curve of the airfoil in that area. Overkill? Definetly but it's stayed totally stable in shape for about 15 years now.
The material of choice for many designs was trailing edge stock. But when I've done mine I've used a very stiff panel made from a sandwich of two layers of 1/64 ply with 1/16 balsa between. This sandwich was laminated and clamped over the wing until cured/dried so it holds the curve of the airfoil in that area. Overkill? Definetly but it's stayed totally stable in shape for about 15 years now.
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RE: SPOILERS - HOW DO I FABRICATE
Thanks Bruce
As usual, ytou're right there --- with the answer(s) I need
Got another one for ya.
Q. The plans state that I should cover up to the first 5 formers with 1/16" balsa. Form there back - with 1/16"
I gave elected to do the front A - E with 1/16" for the first layer then recover agin with another 1/16". I find that with all of the irregularities in the surface area, I can do the bottom layer a section at a time - then - when I do the 2nd, the "stringer" under frame is a LOT more compliant. As well, it goes on in bigger sections and faster. Bottom line, i think it'll MonoKote a whole lot better looking.
Is that an OK or not? I sure hope so --- layer one - is resting for the nite! LOL
Marshall
As usual, ytou're right there --- with the answer(s) I need
Got another one for ya.
Q. The plans state that I should cover up to the first 5 formers with 1/16" balsa. Form there back - with 1/16"
I gave elected to do the front A - E with 1/16" for the first layer then recover agin with another 1/16". I find that with all of the irregularities in the surface area, I can do the bottom layer a section at a time - then - when I do the 2nd, the "stringer" under frame is a LOT more compliant. As well, it goes on in bigger sections and faster. Bottom line, i think it'll MonoKote a whole lot better looking.
Is that an OK or not? I sure hope so --- layer one - is resting for the nite! LOL
Marshall