Hellbringer

Hi, i am wounderin how you guys transfer from that plans to the wood to cut it out. i have tried tracing it with paper and cutting it out and then tracing it on to the wood but if the paper movies a little bit it is no good and have to start over again and i know that there must be a better way. Thanks in advanced Mike

GrnBrt

My Feedback: (5)

I take and make copies of the part at Kinko's and then when I get home I lay the copy on the wood and using a heating iron to transfer the image, works slick.

Dr1Driver

First, make copies of the plans. Cut the pattern of the part out and use a LIGHT spritz of spray contact cement to attach the pattern to the wood. Cut the part out around the outline.

Dr.1

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

I normally cut the pattern out from an extra parts plan, however, you can also use a "T" pin and go over the outline of the part while the plan is sitting on top of the wood. The you do a "connect the dots".

Cutting the pattern out from an extra parts plan is usually the easiest way to go. I use glue sticks to adhere the pattern to the wood.

When you cut your parts, make sure you cut them slightly oversize, then sand them, usually to the line. After all the sanding is done, put your part number on the part, THEN remove the pattern (Don't ask me about this one )

Dsegal

See the thread at http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_28...tm.htm#2893439

dicknadine

Why not just put the carbon paper between the back of the plan and the balsa sheet?? been doing it this way for many years and it still works good. pin the carbon paper and balsa together to stop movement. don't forget carbon side down on balsa. saves trips to the Kinko's-- that is if you have one handy. dick

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

They still make carbon paper ? I thought that disappeared with the typewriter

Flypaper 2

I, like you, still use the pin method and connect the dots.

dicknadine

Guess you havn't been around the office much, 6 part paper means 5 sheets of carbon paper, by the roll. besides you never know what scale Kinko's expert operators used, the carbon paper doesn't know the difference. talk to your buddies. dick

Hellbringer

Thanks guys for all the input, i figured it out, my mom is a teacher so i went to her school and i used the copy machine and copied the rib and bulk head and then cut them out and traced them. Thanks again Mike

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

I have also tried using acetone to transfer the toner to the wood. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't depending on the toner quality I guess, as I just tried it and did not get the results I wanted. I have also tried the iron on method which works well, but again I believe if the copier toner is of good quality and be sure to set the imaging to a darker setting,, you wont get good results.
I glued the copied pattern to the pattern wood and cut close to the line and then sand.
Now....I am having problems cutting in the spars on wing ribs as I get them too wide and they end up not inline. I have glued a depth stop to my razor saw which helpd immensely, but still having problems.
Oh yeah, I read an article in RC Modeler where a table router is used to cut wing ribs. I'm going to give it a try this weekend.
Good luck with your project. cheers jollyroger

stuk_at_work

My Feedback: (111)

What issue of RCM was that?

jstrawn

I make a copy of the plans, cut out the pattern I want, glue it to the wood with a glue stick, and sand to shape with a 1" belt sander. Works great. The Glue Stick paper peels right off and leaves little residue.

feihu-RCU

I heard that if you use Lacquer thinner rather than acetone you can get astonishing results.
Look here for instructions --
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...e+thinner+copy

feihu

Avaiojet

Mike,

I'm sure your Post is unread by now, but I just thought I'd pass this information on. :-)

Unfortunately I cut my plans up. Having them copied isn't that bad an idea. However, some machines can change the length of the copy or not be as accurate as the original.

Anyway, after I cut them up. the plans, parts or ribs needed, I T-pin them to the actual wood that I will need for each part. I then use a Black spray paint in an aerosal can and gentally spray the pinned paper. Usually Krylon. Not from an angle, but flat on. The spray pressure presses the paper against the wood. the results are great. Works for me.

Sounds crazy, but this is how I've been doing it for years.

Charles

Sir Loopsalot

A little late with the reply to this one, but this is one trick I have never heard mentioned....if you have a glass top table or a piece of glass you can use, try placing a light source under it,(be careful here though) lay out your plan on the glass and tape a piece of freezer paper (waxy side down) over the area of the part you want to make. Trace the part then lay the tracing (waxy side down) on the wood then iron it down. The wax on the freezer paper acts as a heat activated adhesive. Cut and sand to final shape, peel the paper, and lab
el the part.

You can also use plain paper and your favorite adhesive instead of wax paper.

If for some reason you want the tracing reversed to the plan view.....flip your plan over.

I hope this works for you if you decide to try it, and once again be careful with the light source. I use an 18 inch fluorescent one ( the kind that you can mount under the cabinet) because they generate less heat.

mnrcaerobat

My Feedback: (197)

I make the extra copy and ca them to my wood. You can sand it off in the end with a orbital sander if you want.

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

I cut and copied the templates etc from my plans. I used the lacquer thinner method and it worked very well for me!
I did a test piece on balsa and A+

Try it out!

PointMagu

My Feedback: (11)

Ok, ok...all you guys are just making alotta work for yourselves...

KRAFT FREEZER PAPER............................................. .........

C'mon y'all, it's got a waxed coating on one side, is semi-transparent. Trace your ribs, bulkheads and the like. IRON it onto your wood and cut 'em out on a band saw or jigsaw! What could POSSIBLY be easier?????????????????

When yer done cutting, peal the paper off and BUILD!

Pointmagu

Sir Loopsalot

I have done that one too...dont like it though because the heat causes the wood to temporarily warp and when it returns back to its previous shape, the freezer paper starts separating....it is an OK method, but just not for me.

PointMagu

My Feedback: (11)

That's very interesting! I've been using freezer paper for years and have never warped even 1/16" Contest grade sheeting using this method...

Perhaps your iron is set too high? I usually keep my iron at around the same setting as when I'm covering with UltraCote or Superkote. The wax melts at a low temp setting and adheres right to the wood.

Maybe a different brand paper was used??? Try Reynolds brand instead of Kraft and let me know your results....Seriously, there's nothing easier that I've tried and I've been trying since '69, LOL

PM

Sir Loopsalot

It may indeed have been the iron was too hot. The wood didn't warp real bad and like I said it was temporary. One other reason I do not use the freezer paper anymore, is because I have started using ModelCad to redraw parts (because some of the parts on the plans are not drawn accurate) and then I print them out and use spray adhesive to attach to the wood. I suppose I could run freezer paper through the printer and return to my old favorite method of attaching paper to wood...LOL