shoestring yellow jacket
09-04-2005, 06:21 PM
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shoestring yellow jacket
I have sent for the plans for the Shoestring Yellow Jacket (Oct '05 MAN). The plans are for a 84" bird using a 1.5 - 2.5 4 Stroke. I have a Saito 91 4st. that I plan on using thus will need to scale the plans down. I have located a blueprint facility that can do that. The plans suggest the 84" will come out to about 12 lbs. Being new to scratch building, I need to know what wingspan I should plan on so my weight will come out matched to the smaller Saito. I am also keeping in mind the scale down will require a reduction in the size of balsa I will be using as well. How does one proportion that as well? Plan are in the mail (somewhere) and I will consider this my fall/winter project. I am planning on using silk and dope instead of the tired use of UltraCote. I will use a badger for paining. That will be another learning experience, but I will save those questions for later. Thanks for any help.
Tim in Tacoma.
Tim in Tacoma.
09-05-2005, 08:05 AM
#2
RE: shoestring yellow jacket
ORIGINAL: mmiller1
I have sent for the plans for the Shoestring Yellow Jacket (Oct '05 MAN). The plans are for a 84" bird using a 1.5 - 2.5 4 Stroke. I have a Saito 91 4st. that I plan on using thus will need to scale the plans down. I have located a blueprint facility that can do that. The plans suggest the 84" will come out to about 12 lbs. Being new to scratch building, I need to know what wingspan I should plan on so my weight will come out matched to the smaller Saito.
>I would look at the 70" wingspan range for a 91. Of course you
>will need to watch your weight.
I am also keeping in mind the scale down will require a reduction in the size of balsa I will be using as well. How does one proportion that as well?
>When I reduce/enlarge plans I normally wind up measuring the
>wood sizes on the plans to get the sizes I need. You will need to
>use common sense with this also.
>
>Some good examples are: The original has 3/32" ribs. The
>reduced version has 1/32" ribs. You would need to decide
>whether to go with 1/16" or the 3/32". (My personal choice
>would be the 3/32" ribs ) The sheeting on the original is 3/32".
>You would be OK using 1/16" for the sheeting.
>
>You will find areas that you can lighten also. Be careful when
>you do this. You want the plane as light as possible, but not at
>the expense of structural integrety.
>
>Areas you do not want to skimp on are the firewall and parts it
>attaches to, the wing joiner and the landing gear blocks and areas
>it attaches to.
Plan are in the mail (somewhere) and I will consider this my fall/winter project. I am planning on using silk and dope instead of the tired use of UltraCote. I will use a badger for paining. That will be another learning experience, but I will save those questions for later. Thanks for any help.
Tim in Tacoma.
I have sent for the plans for the Shoestring Yellow Jacket (Oct '05 MAN). The plans are for a 84" bird using a 1.5 - 2.5 4 Stroke. I have a Saito 91 4st. that I plan on using thus will need to scale the plans down. I have located a blueprint facility that can do that. The plans suggest the 84" will come out to about 12 lbs. Being new to scratch building, I need to know what wingspan I should plan on so my weight will come out matched to the smaller Saito.
>I would look at the 70" wingspan range for a 91. Of course you
>will need to watch your weight.
I am also keeping in mind the scale down will require a reduction in the size of balsa I will be using as well. How does one proportion that as well?
>When I reduce/enlarge plans I normally wind up measuring the
>wood sizes on the plans to get the sizes I need. You will need to
>use common sense with this also.
>
>Some good examples are: The original has 3/32" ribs. The
>reduced version has 1/32" ribs. You would need to decide
>whether to go with 1/16" or the 3/32". (My personal choice
>would be the 3/32" ribs ) The sheeting on the original is 3/32".
>You would be OK using 1/16" for the sheeting.
>
>You will find areas that you can lighten also. Be careful when
>you do this. You want the plane as light as possible, but not at
>the expense of structural integrety.
>
>Areas you do not want to skimp on are the firewall and parts it
>attaches to, the wing joiner and the landing gear blocks and areas
>it attaches to.
Plan are in the mail (somewhere) and I will consider this my fall/winter project. I am planning on using silk and dope instead of the tired use of UltraCote. I will use a badger for paining. That will be another learning experience, but I will save those questions for later. Thanks for any help.
Tim in Tacoma.
I would suggest that you cut TWO sets of parts at the same time and get AT LEAST 2 COPIES OF THE PLANS. As you build the plane make any notes directly on the plans you are working on, then at the end of the day transfer these notes to the clean, unused set of plans. By doing this you will know what you did and after test flying the plane you can add any additional notes/modifications to the clean set of plans.
Make your changes/mods to 1st plane to be sure they are going to work the way you want them to, then you can incorporate them into the plans for the second plane.
I wouldn't get real fancy with the 1st plane as far as finishing/detailing goes, again, save that for the second plane.
Once you have all the bugs worked out and the mods done go and build your second plane and detail it out.
Hope this helps.
Here are a couple of the scratch built planes I have done. The orange and white one is a Transavia PL-12 Airtruk, the silver one is an FW-56 (Stosser ) and the red and white one is a Bellanca Airbus.
