maktec

My Feedback: (29)

Any one have a suggestion where to buy fiberglass cloth, 1/2 - 3/4 oz for glassing my Cessna 182?
thanks
george

BMatthews

Sig used to sell it. Probably still does.

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

I usually buy mine off of EBay.

saramos

Here are some online sources:

https://www.cstsales.com/
http://arts-hobby.com/store/itemlist...pid=1&pcatid=0
http://www.acp-composites.com/


Scott

Big Oakden

My Feedback: (3)

I will join in and ask the same question as above.

I am looking at glassing my first plane. (glass over balsa skin) Lots of compound curves and radii's

I have been told to use 3/4 oz fiberglass cloth, but not much on resins/epoxies.

Any Suggestions for what kind of resin/epoxy to use?

And where a good source for "package deals" may be?

I was told to find some foam packaging from boxes and practice on applying the fiberglass to the foam until I became a little surer of my glassing skills. (I dont want to have to buiold another airplane because I batched the glass job)
Any other suggestions?

Just a quick note:
I did go to all three of the above sites and explored each one before posting this question.

Thanks for your help.

Dave

BMatthews

Dave, there's a special sandable finishing resin that does not clog the paper and accepts paint with a better bond. You probably want to get that. Check with the various supply outfits where you get your resin and cloth.

If you practice on foam you will need to use epoxy as a resin. Polyester resins will melt most foams other than ureaformaldahyde stuff.

The trick is to use an absolute minimum amount of resin that will just make the cloth look clear. If you use more it will float the cloth and be very heavy. Use a light application, spread it and soak up the excess using the toilet paper trick to blot up the extra resin. Then, after it is cured, you can either use a sandable primer to fill the weave or a second light layer of resin.

The toilet peper trick is where you unroll a roll of toilet paper onto the resined area using some pressure on the roll to provide a good contact. Then blot the paper and let it soak up the excess. Peel up the paper and toss it. The cloth should still look transparent. If there are whitish areas then apply a very small amount of resin until they just go clear.

HighPlains

My Feedback: (1)

I like to use polyester resin on light weight glass. But I would not use the TP method for removing excess resin - it still leaves too much resin and makes your glass job heavy. Use an old plastic credit card instead. Just lay the glass on the balsa and smooth out with the back of your hand to remove most of the wrinkles. Then pour a small amount of resin onto the surface and with the credit card spread the resin as thin as possible. Do one side and then set aside to kick. After the resin has set, sand off the excess with 329 dry paper and then glass the next side. After all surfaces have been glassed, do a second coat of resin and then wet sand after it sets. From this point on you are ready to prime.

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

You may want to also investigate the polyurethane method of applying fiberglass. While the poly method only has about 60% of the strength/dent resistance of the resin method, it is about 1/2 the weight and a lot easier to sand. I have included some instructions for using polyurethane, however, 99% of the instructions are for using resin also.

Hope this helps.