SST

My Feedback: (2)

Cured polyurethane glue is much lighter.

Rodney

John's suggestion to store the container upside down is good. I have always done this starting way back with bottles of dope as they also store best upside down--I have some that is at least 15 years old and still good. Even upside down though, my gorilla glue usually lasts less than a year. I find more and more uses for the Gorilla glue the longer I have it around, a good adheasive for many tasks. However, I still use more aliphatics than anything else.

bash-ace-RCU

My Feedback: (16)

I have found Probond/Gorilla glue to be superior to epoxy in all applications except for fuel proofing a firewall or fuel tank compartment. I have used it on construction from .40 size planes to 33% aerobatic aircraft in place of where epoxy would be used, and it has never failed or cracked. I used the same 12 oz. bottle of Probond for almost 3 years before the remaining 1/4 of the bottle hardened. As far as I'm concerned, there is none better for sheeting foam core wings. As stated before, when used properly, it has a super strong bond. Only drawback is the time it takes to cure, maybe not entirely a bad thing (time=wood penetration).

MajorTomski

I"m sorry I see this post every couple of days, I read "Gorillia Glue thoughts?" and the first thing that comes into my head is
"Boy, I've been on this shelf a long time now, wonder where all my brother bottles went?"

Sorry

Lowlevlflyer

My Feedback: (3)

Too funny, MajorT

dicknadine

may I ask what size and type of model are you planning on building? think answers to these questions may have elimininated a lot of the above discourse and some harsh words. every type of adhesive has its basic function, some better than others. we all also have our own opinions and get carried away with our experience. dick

dickj

My Feedback: (1)

I have used Gorilla glue very successfully when I have cracked my Extra 300 in half and/or the Funtan nose off. Holds very well and finishes off ok. I doubt if I would try and build a complete model. Works great on the lite ply joints and holds exceptonally well.

Walter D

My Feedback: (16)

"I find that its very slow curing time, coupled with some filling capabilities might be the right glue for "certain applications", I would still be mostly using aliphatic, epoxies and cyano. "

This is part of how I started the thread, hardly any room there for misunderstandings and incitement toward agressive behavior, but this kind of stuff sometimes happens as one tends to interpret the written word in only the way the word describes its meaning and not allowing our imagination any room for written words that could be interpreted with different meanings, when we talk we use body language, gestures and tone of voice and all these give us more material to interpret the spoken word, not so when we write thoughts, let's not forget that most of us are not the best of writers either, for example Major Tomski was very correct and right on mark when interpreting the title of "Gorilla Glue Thoughts", in reality this title should have been written like Any Thoughts on Gorilla Glue?, or something like that and when I wrote the title the real meaning and interpretation of the words escaped me and I thought I was a fairly decent writer, what a blow to my ego!

Suffice is to say that everyone has inputed great information on this product and that it certainly has many applications in the building and or repair of our models and for other uses around the house as well. And its use would probably be more on par with epoxies glues as it is slow in curing and has filling capabilities and that we should buy small bottles and keep them upside down. I imagine that it will be up to me to try using this glue in a plastic syringe as a mode of application as nobody has answer that question yet.

Thanks to all that answered, talk about a colorful thread!

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

I am a model powerboat builder and have to glue maple motor mount blocks to the sides of the hull which are either mahogany or birch aircraft ply (depending on which kit). Then an aluminum motor plate is tightened down to the blocks. This gets lots of abuse here, from running the starting belt, to high vibration, and also just clamping the plate down tight. Cracks are very common here, which let water seep and is usually the first failure of the boat.

Does epoxy cure OK over the glue?

Would it be better to stay with epoxy, or would gorilla glue work better with these types of wood and stress?

Thanks!

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

I would use epoxy. It says on my Elmers poly glue bottle, no water contact.

dhal22

i would keep a bottle of gorilla glue on the shelf just for wing sheeting alone. i use a foam roller and you can literally push the glue around until there is no more color seen and the foam has a wet sheen to it. it will spread so thin you have to hold the core in the light to make sure you didn't miss a spot. i then mist the balsa skins, assemble the parts and clamp for 24 hrs. the results are so strong it is unbelievable.

mrbigg

My Feedback: (21)

Never thought about the foam roller thing. What kind are you using? I'm guessing the thinner, not so puffy ones.