Gorilla Glue thoughts?
11-24-2005, 11:01 PM
#1
Gorilla Glue thoughts?
I'm sure by now some of you scratch builders have used this glue, do you have any input on its use in attaching firewalls or other high stress and vibration areas as opposed to slow curing epoxy and regular carpenter's glue (aliphatic), do you know how well it works if used with a plastisc syringe, will it dry out at the tip or perhaps dipping the tip of the syringe on a cup with water will prevent it from hardening (I use this method with aliphatic and it works real well, just dispense a little of the tip before using it). I tested it on two pieces of balsa and it holds up very well and I find that its expanding characteristic might be beneficial in some instances, any input will be welcome, thanks!
I find that its very slow curing time, coupled with some filling capabilities might be the right glue for certain applications, I would still be mostly using aliphatic, epoxies and cyano.
I find that its very slow curing time, coupled with some filling capabilities might be the right glue for certain applications, I would still be mostly using aliphatic, epoxies and cyano.
11-24-2005, 11:26 PM
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RE: Gorilla Glue thoughts?
I creates a very good bond, better that most adhesives. I tend to use it when I am bonding birch or lite ply parts. I have used it in two airplanes, (both .46 two stroke sport airplanes) to install the firewall and supporting pieces with no problems at all. I don't generally use it for balsa to balsa joints as it doesn't sand as easy as some other products available.
One thing to watch out for is the foaming action that occures during the cure. It tends to move or shift the parts if they aren't clamped or pinned in place.
One thing to watch out for is the foaming action that occures during the cure. It tends to move or shift the parts if they aren't clamped or pinned in place.
11-24-2005, 11:31 PM
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RE: Gorilla Glue thoughts?
Actually, water is what activates Gorilla glue, sort of. When you use it, you have to get some moisture on the pieces you are gluing. The glue will foam up and expand a little bit while it is drying , also. I Gorilla glue to install Robart Hinge Point hinges, and believe me, they are rock solid after they dry. For most building purposes however, I'm of the opinion that Tite Bond or Elmers is easier to work with, and epoxy is best on firewalls and such. I've also used a wood glue from Loctite company called Woodworx. It is a professional grade glue that was Suggested to me by a friend of mine that has a cabinet shop. He swears by the stuff, and after using it, I have to say I love it. too. It sets up quicker than Tite Bond or Elmers, and has a very strong bond strength.
11-25-2005, 01:29 AM
#4
RE: Gorilla Glue thoughts?
It's good for making complex repairs in mangled styrofoam, it expands to fill voids and doesn't add a lot of weight. If you use it very sparingly, it works well to sheet foam wings. I have used it to bond aluminum engine mounts to fiberglass fuselages, it remains slightly pliant and doesn't let go.
11-25-2005, 10:25 AM
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RE: Gorilla Glue thoughts?
I've started using it instead of epoxy for just about everything...Wing joining, tail joints, firewalls...One of my favorite uses is when installing flat pinned hinges. I insert the hinge, drill a hole for the toothpick, shoot a drop of glue in, and lick the pick before insertion. Absolutely rock-solid when dry. When I join foam wigs, I'll apply a thin coating to one panel, insert a few toothpicks or bamboo skewers, depending on the size of the wing, spray water on the other panel, and join 'em (using wax paper under the joint, of course), and weight 'em down until dry. I find a small, cheap detail sander with coarse paper can usually be directed closely enough to sand the excess foam down without damaging the surrounding material.
11-25-2005, 12:02 PM
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RE: Gorilla Glue thoughts?
Poly glues are 2 to 3 times as expensive as other adhesives like Titebond Original, and for those extra bucks the buyer doesn't get any extra bang - aliphatic resins and other common modeling adhesives provide much higher bond strengths than the inherent shear and tensile strengths of materials on which they are normally used, e.g. >wood<, meaning that when a balsa-aliphatic resin model crashes you have a bunch of perfectly good glue joints to sweep up, along with lots of splinters.
With the possible exception of sheeting foam surfaces, I've found that poly glues offer no real performance improvement over more traditional modeling adhesives.
A quart (32 ounces) of Titebond Original formula costs about 8 bucks around here. The same 8 bucks would buy 4 ounces of Gorilla Glue. That's why there is no Gorilla Glue on my glue shelf.
With the possible exception of sheeting foam surfaces, I've found that poly glues offer no real performance improvement over more traditional modeling adhesives.
A quart (32 ounces) of Titebond Original formula costs about 8 bucks around here. The same 8 bucks would buy 4 ounces of Gorilla Glue. That's why there is no Gorilla Glue on my glue shelf.
11-25-2005, 01:44 PM
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RE: Gorilla Glue thoughts?
A quart (32 ounces) of Titebond Original formula costs about 8 bucks around here. The same 8 bucks would buy 4 ounces of Gorilla Glue. That's why there is no Gorilla Glue on my glue shelf.
It is also very light and strong. I have not used it on anything that has alot of vibration yet but I am curious how it holds up. I would think that it would.
Pete
11-25-2005, 02:18 PM
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RE: Gorilla Glue thoughts?
ORIGINAL: blueberry
A quart (32 ounces) of Titebond Original formula costs about 8 bucks around here. The same 8 bucks would buy 4 ounces of Gorilla Glue. That's why there is no Gorilla Glue on my glue shelf.
True but the Gorilla glue expands 300% so it does last a long time used sparingly.
It is also very light and strong. I have not used it on anything that has alot of vibration yet but I am curious how it holds up. I would think that it would.
Pete
A quart (32 ounces) of Titebond Original formula costs about 8 bucks around here. The same 8 bucks would buy 4 ounces of Gorilla Glue. That's why there is no Gorilla Glue on my glue shelf.
It is also very light and strong. I have not used it on anything that has alot of vibration yet but I am curious how it holds up. I would think that it would.
Pete
Yeah, people who don't know how to use it THINK it's more expensive. First, if you use Elmer's Ultimate, you can buy 16oz. bottles at Home Depot for about $12.00 (Same as Gorilla but 2/3 the price). Second, you use VERY little, and use water to get maximum expansion & penetration...I use just enough to dampen the surface, then spritz with water to kick it before clamping. Works great as long as you have a snug joint. If the joint is sloppy, use a LITTLE bit more glue. The key with this stuff is not to overdo it. Also, if you compare this stuff with epoxy, which is what I mainly use it in place of, 16oz @ $12.00 is way cheaper than epoxy ounce for ounce, and there's no comparison when you compare cured volume and the number of joints it can make compared to the same liquid volume of epoxy! You can also use it to fill nicks and voids that sanding reveal, and you can paint it into less than perfect CA joints to fill small misalignments. All in all, I think it's the greatest stuff since CA. I haven't used wood glue since Jr. high school wood shop class[:'(]
11-25-2005, 02:31 PM
#9
RE: Gorilla Glue thoughts?
I really like Gorilla , or some other poly, glue for ARF wing joining. Many times the box for the dihedral brace is slightly large so you don't get a good epoxy joint. I usually brush in a good coat of Gorilla, then wet the ply dihedral brace and slide it in. The gorilla expande to give a great, tight joint.
Gorilla is also good for putting glass or carbon spars in foam combat wings. The foam expands to fill the square slot around the round spar. If you tape or cover the area when it's wet, then weight on top, the glue foam will make a much stronger join with the foam core than epoxy.
Also works good for Robart hinges.
Gorilla is also good for putting glass or carbon spars in foam combat wings. The foam expands to fill the square slot around the round spar. If you tape or cover the area when it's wet, then weight on top, the glue foam will make a much stronger join with the foam core than epoxy.
Also works good for Robart hinges.
11-25-2005, 05:10 PM
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RE: Gorilla Glue thoughts?
That is the biggest dissadvantage of Gorilla glue, it has a very short shelf life. Other than that, it is great for many applications, especially on foam parts. I always buy it in the smallest size possible and even then usually have to pitch some befor it is all used up.
11-25-2005, 06:00 PM
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RE: Gorilla Glue thoughts?
I've found the best way is to store it up-side-down. If the air pocket is at the top when you store it upright, there seems to be advanced hardening through out the tip. Try just turning the bottle up-side-down when your done with it. It lasts a lot longer that way.
11-25-2005, 09:39 PM
#13
RE: Gorilla Glue thoughts?
All very good replies, but has any of you used it with a syringe and does it remain fresh or it is best applied with a small brush and/or directly from the bottle, I say this as I think using the bottle would be a bit cumbersome when gluing inside formers in the fuselages and other tight places? I'll be doing some testing tomorrow if time permits.
11-25-2005, 11:00 PM
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RE: Gorilla Glue thoughts?
ORIGINAL: SST
Yeah, people who don't know how to use it THINK it's more expensive.
Yeah, people who don't know how to use it THINK it's more expensive.
If so, it's you who needs to THINK again.
Gorilla Glue only pays for itself when used in the intended applications, and building model airplanes is not one of them.
Making furniture is one of the intended uses. Building cabinetry is another.
Fabricating truss beams is a really good application for polyurethane glues.
Bonding metals to plastics is a good application.
Mass production is where polyurethanes really shine.
Using Gorilla Glue to hide ineptly fitted joints is certainly a good use of the stuff, and a great number of model builders use Gorilla Glue to cover up sloppy workmanship.
Gluing up toy airplanes with polyurethane adhesive is a waste of hobby money unless you are one of those who can't seem to get a simple wood joint fitted right.
The real cost of using Gorilla Glue shows up when the stuff starts to cure in the bottle and you've only used a fraction of the contents.
I use polyurethane adhesives all the time at work. I also refuse to waste the stuff on toy airplanes because it is not at all necessary.
11-26-2005, 10:48 AM
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RE: Gorilla Glue thoughts?
ORIGINAL: the-plumber
Are you assuming that since I refuse to waste meager hobby funds to buy high performance adhesives that I don't _need_ to build toy airplanes means that I don't use high performance adhesives elsewhere ?
If so, it's you who needs to THINK again.
- I'm listening...
Gorilla Glue only pays for itself when used in the intended applications, and building model airplanes is not one of them.
- Oh! I didn't know you developed the stuff for a specific purpose! Please enlighten me...
Making furniture is one of the intended uses. Building cabinetry is another.
- And I gather modeling use is strictly prohibited...
Fabricating truss beams is a really good application for polyurethane glues.
- Uh huh...
Bonding metals to plastics is a good application.
- OK...
Mass production is where polyurethanes really shine.
- So your point is?
Using Gorilla Glue to hide ineptly fitted joints is certainly a good use of the stuff, and a great number of model builders use Gorilla Glue to cover up sloppy workmanship.
- So who are you? If you're saying that you've never made a glue joint you've not been perfectly happy with, I'll say you're lying. We all do it occasionally...
Gluing up toy airplanes with polyurethane adhesive is a waste of hobby money unless you are one of those who can't seem to get a simple wood joint fitted right.
- And now you're the arbiter of how much money I (or anyone else) should be allowed to spend on my hobby, and on what? I have nothing to prove to you or anyone else regarding my building abilities...
The real cost of using Gorilla Glue shows up when the stuff starts to cure in the bottle and you've only used a fraction of the contents.
- So you don't build as much as I do. I once used a whole 8oz bottle on a giant scale foam/coro plane. BTW, poly glue is one of the few glues that will (using the proper techniques) reliably bond coroplast. You must not be very dedicated to the hobby, right? And of course we all know of the economic suffering caused when that $12.00 bottle of glue needs to be replaced once a year even though there's $2.00 worth of glue unused. I mean, that's almost 2 boxes of Mac & cheese...
I use polyurethane adhesives all the time at work. I also refuse to waste the stuff on toy airplanes because it is not at all necessary.
- So? I'm a Journeyman Toolmaker, and use exotic industrial epoxy glues all the time in my work. Do you actually think I wouldn't use them in a hobby application because of some goofy idea that since it was developed to glue Turkite to iron bedways that using it on wood is some perversion? You need to expand your horizons...
ORIGINAL: SST
Yeah, people who don't know how to use it THINK it's more expensive.
Yeah, people who don't know how to use it THINK it's more expensive.
If so, it's you who needs to THINK again.
- I'm listening...
Gorilla Glue only pays for itself when used in the intended applications, and building model airplanes is not one of them.
- Oh! I didn't know you developed the stuff for a specific purpose! Please enlighten me...
Making furniture is one of the intended uses. Building cabinetry is another.
- And I gather modeling use is strictly prohibited...
Fabricating truss beams is a really good application for polyurethane glues.
- Uh huh...
Bonding metals to plastics is a good application.
- OK...
Mass production is where polyurethanes really shine.
- So your point is?
Using Gorilla Glue to hide ineptly fitted joints is certainly a good use of the stuff, and a great number of model builders use Gorilla Glue to cover up sloppy workmanship.
- So who are you? If you're saying that you've never made a glue joint you've not been perfectly happy with, I'll say you're lying. We all do it occasionally...
Gluing up toy airplanes with polyurethane adhesive is a waste of hobby money unless you are one of those who can't seem to get a simple wood joint fitted right.
- And now you're the arbiter of how much money I (or anyone else) should be allowed to spend on my hobby, and on what? I have nothing to prove to you or anyone else regarding my building abilities...
The real cost of using Gorilla Glue shows up when the stuff starts to cure in the bottle and you've only used a fraction of the contents.
- So you don't build as much as I do. I once used a whole 8oz bottle on a giant scale foam/coro plane. BTW, poly glue is one of the few glues that will (using the proper techniques) reliably bond coroplast. You must not be very dedicated to the hobby, right? And of course we all know of the economic suffering caused when that $12.00 bottle of glue needs to be replaced once a year even though there's $2.00 worth of glue unused. I mean, that's almost 2 boxes of Mac & cheese...
I use polyurethane adhesives all the time at work. I also refuse to waste the stuff on toy airplanes because it is not at all necessary.
- So? I'm a Journeyman Toolmaker, and use exotic industrial epoxy glues all the time in my work. Do you actually think I wouldn't use them in a hobby application because of some goofy idea that since it was developed to glue Turkite to iron bedways that using it on wood is some perversion? You need to expand your horizons...
11-26-2005, 11:04 AM
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RE: Gorilla Glue thoughts?
ORIGINAL: Walter D
All very good replies, but has any of you used it with a syringe and does it remain fresh or it is best applied with a small brush and/or directly from the bottle, I say this as I think using the bottle would be a bit cumbersome when gluing inside formers in the fuselages and other tight places? I'll be doing some testing tomorrow if time permits.
All very good replies, but has any of you used it with a syringe and does it remain fresh or it is best applied with a small brush and/or directly from the bottle, I say this as I think using the bottle would be a bit cumbersome when gluing inside formers in the fuselages and other tight places? I'll be doing some testing tomorrow if time permits.
I buy 2oz condiment cups for mixing epoxy, etc, and I'll just squeeze a little into one and use an acid brush to apply a thin coat to smaller parts. The slow cure time allows you to take your time, but when I'm doing large areas (I once laminated a 2' long piece of coroplast fuselage doubler to each foam fuselage side, and the fuse floor of a giant Super Sport Trainer I was building), I'll squirt some onto the piece and use a bondo squeegee or something similar to spread a thin coating. What the heck, I sometimes just squeeze a drop onto my finger and spread it the dirty old fashion way...
11-26-2005, 11:05 AM
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RE: Gorilla Glue thoughts?
ORIGINAL: John Murdoch
I've found the best way is to store it up-side-down. If the air pocket is at the top when you store it upright, there seems to be advanced hardening through out the tip. Try just turning the bottle up-side-down when your done with it. It lasts a lot longer that way.
I've found the best way is to store it up-side-down. If the air pocket is at the top when you store it upright, there seems to be advanced hardening through out the tip. Try just turning the bottle up-side-down when your done with it. It lasts a lot longer that way.
Great idea!
11-26-2005, 12:03 PM
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RE: Gorilla Glue thoughts?
Most everyones comments are right - on! EPOXIES in general have a failyly short shelf life.
In fact, a local mfg here in CANADA has absolutely taken on the policy, "don't buy more than you can use within a year!" Certainly, all businesses want to sell their product, but it's no good if what you buy has gone bad.
On the other hand, a simple white glue, aliphatic, their shelf life is considerably longer. In fact, in another lifetime, when I was a cabinetmaker, glues of that nature are very moist and will totally soak into the grain of even a hardwood. You can clamp two pieces of a hardwood together and in about a half an hour, it is somewhat useable.
Hardwood and Deciduous.. leaf bearing or needle bearing. Hardwood loses its leaves, softwood does not.
A strange breed of hardwood is ASPEN & POPLAR. These two in particular, are classified as a Medium hardwood. I really like to use poplar as the leading edges for wings, rudders, & stabs. They take a likin' and keep on tickin' LOL
Ultimately though, with the use of the white or aliphatic glue, your joint(s) are actually stronger that the tissue of wooden cells themselves.
In fact, a local mfg here in CANADA has absolutely taken on the policy, "don't buy more than you can use within a year!" Certainly, all businesses want to sell their product, but it's no good if what you buy has gone bad.
On the other hand, a simple white glue, aliphatic, their shelf life is considerably longer. In fact, in another lifetime, when I was a cabinetmaker, glues of that nature are very moist and will totally soak into the grain of even a hardwood. You can clamp two pieces of a hardwood together and in about a half an hour, it is somewhat useable.
Hardwood and Deciduous.. leaf bearing or needle bearing. Hardwood loses its leaves, softwood does not.
A strange breed of hardwood is ASPEN & POPLAR. These two in particular, are classified as a Medium hardwood. I really like to use poplar as the leading edges for wings, rudders, & stabs. They take a likin' and keep on tickin' LOL
Ultimately though, with the use of the white or aliphatic glue, your joint(s) are actually stronger that the tissue of wooden cells themselves.
11-26-2005, 01:14 PM
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RE: Gorilla Glue thoughts?
ORIGINAL: SST
You need to expand your horizons...
You need to expand your horizons...
Did I attack you ?
No.
Did I try to tell you how to build you models ?
No.
Did I say anything at all about inventing polyurethane adhesives ?
Of course not, nor did I say anything whatsoever about PROHIBITIONS regarding poly glues.
Did I say poly glues were a waste of hobby money ?
Yes. >>>>>I<<<<< find them to be a complete waste of my hobby budget >>>>>because they do not offer any performance improvement<<<<< over the adhesives I already use.
Have I ever built a model with sloppy joints, and spent way too much time slathering CA all over the place trying to get the joint to stay put ?
Absolutely. Back when expanding foam adhesives were still a dream in someone's head. I haven't built a sloppy model in about thirty years, so I don't need super adhesives to cover up poor joinery.
As for not being very involved in the hobby and needing to 'expand my horizons', the model I'll be painting in the next week or so has a 140" wingspan. That's about as expansive as my building shop can accomodate at present.
Do I build foam models ? Not if I can help it. Do I use coroplast ? Yeah. I use it to check spray patterns on the paint systems.
By the way, did I say that Gorilla Glue was a good adhesive for bonding metals and plastics ? Yup. Coroplast _is_ a plastic, last time I looked.
You _really_ need to stop the personal attacks when someone offers a differing opinion.
Unless of course you opinion is the only one that counts around here.
Bye now.
11-26-2005, 11:17 PM
#22
RE: Gorilla Glue thoughts?
I think a small bottle of ELMERs' poly U glue is about $4 at WALMART, maybe less, so I don't consider it a financial burden to keep on hand. It has all but made epoxy obsolete for me. I use epoxy as a fuel proofer only now. I am glad to be free of the hassle and of the waste of mixing up batches of epoxy that never get entirely used, the mixing utensils, the extra garbage, etc. Gorilla glue even works great if you make built up push rods from carbon tubing and wire ends.
11-27-2005, 01:18 AM
#23
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RE: Gorilla Glue thoughts?
ORIGINAL: blueberry
How does a question about glue turn into a war?
I don't understand it!
Pete
How does a question about glue turn into a war?
I don't understand it!
Pete
11-27-2005, 07:28 AM
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RE: Gorilla Glue thoughts?
ORIGINAL: John Murdoch
I've found the best way is to store it up-side-down. If the air pocket is at the top when you store it upright, there seems to be advanced hardening through out the tip. Try just turning the bottle up-side-down when your done with it. It lasts a lot longer that way.
I've found the best way is to store it up-side-down. If the air pocket is at the top when you store it upright, there seems to be advanced hardening through out the tip. Try just turning the bottle up-side-down when your done with it. It lasts a lot longer that way.
Dunno if it's the humidity here in the mid-south but I've never used water to make it cure. It does great without it!