JIMARRINGTON

I am considering scratchbuilding a 60" WWI biplane from a set of electric plans that I am enlarging. This will be my first scratchbuild of a biplane in this size range. The plans do not have provisions for detachable wings. The bottom wing would not be a problem at it can easily be treated like a monoplane wing. The top wing is where I am stumped. Can some of you offer some suggestions as to how to make some cabane and interplane struts and attachments for them? The airplane is a Rex Scout. A one of German Prototype of 1916. The nice thing about the cabanes is that they stay in line with the fuse sides and do not angle outward. I will try to load the page here.

Thanks
Jim

szig

look at


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_36...tm.htm#3685473

JIMARRINGTON

I have printed off the instructions for the SE5a. What a great piece for reference.

Where would a guy be able to buy the aluminum anchor pieces?


Thanks
Jim

szig

You can DIY or buy from Dynaflite.

http://www.dynaflite.com/parts/dyfa3045pl.html

Regards

JIMARRINGTON

Thanks for the replies. Dynaflites plates look a little pricey at .95 a piece. I dont know for sure as I have never bought any aluminium before. I have no problem making them myself if I could find a source of some aluminium stock. Anyone know where I can get some?


Jim

redux

Try http://www.onlinemetals.com/

I've found them to be an excellent source for small quantities of stock metal and plastic.

--JJ--

Sethhunter

Another good source for metal, composite board, plastic and other materials is Mcmaster-carr: www.mcmaster.com. Look under raw materials.

Laird SS

The fin/rudder area on the Rex looks to be a little small. The flight characteristics might not be very friendly.

Tall Paul

.
VERY TRUE!
That plane looks like it would swap ends at any attempt to fly.
What is the history of the real one?
This model appears to have a greatly enlarged vertical...
http://www.aerodromerc.com/WWI/RexSc...xScout_36t.htm

Rodney

One word of advice; I build a lot of large bipes and have found that it is best to never use aluminum at the attach points as vibration and just everyday use will wallow them out cause you to have to replace them. If possible use brass where frequent assembly/dissassembly is required.

hopkimf

My Feedback: (56)

I currently have three flyable bipes. One is a Kyosho Stearman. The others are an Ikon Waco and a Midwest Stearman. The Kyosho fits in my car without disassembly. Pretty handy. The others require lots of screws and nuts for the struts. Has anyone seen a design for snap in place strut connections? It sure would be handy to have something like spring-loaded rod ends that don't require any tools. Maybe even some kind of clevis pins?