Ekim

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Chuck,

Pretty scary ordeal with the prop. I was just curious as to what prop you were using.

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

ProZinger 22x10

Chuck

WacoNut

Chuck,
I was going to send these in a PM but you are limited by file size.

My cabanes are different from what is called put on the plans and I built my wings in 3 pieces. The center sections stay atatched to the plane. I have 1/2" spacer on the firewall spacing my engine out for the proper prop clearance on the cowl. I mounted the cowl by glassing 4 "L" brackets to the inside of the cowl. These are accessed by putting a driver between the dummy cylinders. The dummy engine I used is no longer available but I did see Fiberglass specialties has a 1/4 scale 7 cyl dummy available. I stopped at their booth at Toledo hoping to get a 1/3 scale dummy.
Hope the pics help.
Anthony

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

Anthony, you might look here. The 7" is the one I used on my Waco and the 10" is the one I used on my Jungmeister.

http://www.bobdivelymodels.com/3.htm

WacoNut

Thanks Ken I will have to check them out. I will go take a look at your Jungmeister.
Anthony

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

Anthony,

Thanks for posting the pictures. I'm going to take some pictures of the attachment points on my Waco tomorrow and post them for comment. They seem a little undersized to me.

Chuck

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

Chuck, here is what the engine mount looks like for the G-62. The engine doesn't stick out but a little of the spark plug cap does.

davidgeorge212

Hi, I have been looking through information about wing joiners and saw that you are using the same one I will be using. I have never used this type of joiner before but it just doesnt seem to me like it should hold the wing on. With this joiner the only thing that holds the wing pannel on are (2) 6-32 screws that are screwed down from the topside? Did you put any kind of notch in the aluminum bar so that when the screw is all the way down it can not slide back and forth or are your screws just tightened down on to a flat bar?

How do you access the screws on your waco once it is done and covered?


By the way this was from post 378 on page 16

mango12

Actually, the acess hole for the screw is on the bottom side of the wing. No ugly holes on top. I did not cut any kind of notch in the aluminum bar, but after a few times I am sure one will be formed naturally. Anthony...
BTW- I am still working on my Waco, and still monotoring this thread !!
Scott

WacoNut

Hi Scott, Glad to hear you are still at it. I am working hard to finish my 33%.

David as Scott said the set screws are accessed thru the bottom of the wing. Once you run the screws down a few times it will create enough of a dimple to keep the bar from sliding out. Plus my flying wires are functional and will help hold the wing panels in place.
Later!!
Anthony

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

I'm sorry if it was posted earlier in this thread, but I don't remember reading it. What are you using for control surface deflections?

Chuck

WacoNut

Chuck,
I haven't flown my Waco yet[sm=red_smile.gif] I went straight from painting the 25% to building the 33%. I have the elevevators set to the plans and the rudder to full deflection that I could get without hitting the elevators. The aileron's are set at double the recommended throws. I like alot of control throw in my planes.
Later!
Anthony

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

I'm looking for some opinions on the Pepino Waco I purchased. The original builder did an excellent job building it in most areas, his craftsmanship is a lot better than mine. However in some areas he left a little to be desired, particularly in the lack of strength in the tail feather area, it was easily strengthened. I'm not planning to make this a scale master piece, so standoff scale will be ok. However, I question the strength of his attachment points to the cabanes. The fasteners threaded into the upper wing seem too small for the loads the wing might see. The N-struts seem ok. What do you guys think? All the screws shown in the pictures are 4-40's. My option would be to cut open the wings and install attachment points as shown on the drawings.

Chuck

WacoNut

Chuck,
That does look a bit weak. My Waco has aluminum plates that are sandwitched and bolted theu the spars and ply plates. I would do the required surgery and install the aluminum plates per the plans. You would hate to do all the work to finish the plane and have the wings seperate in flight.
Later!!
Anthony

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Chuck,

We might all be surprised how strong a 4-40 socket head cap screw is but I tend to agree with Anthony. I think you should do the surgery. It won't be to hard to do. I can assure you that a 6-32 socket head cap screw is strong enough. Here is a photo before I finished the top wing. Both wings are solid with no separate center section.

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

Thanks for the comments, I'm going to do the surgery at the cabanes, but will leave the N-struts alone they seem like they should be strong enough. Please say something if you disagree. I have the metal and will start cutting tomorrow.

Chuck

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

I measured the incidences today and read some of the earlier dialogue. The stab is a +1.38 degrees, the lower wing is 0, and the upper wing is +3/4. + being the leading edge being higher than the trailing edge. Since I'm making the change to the upper wing mounting brackets, is a -1 degree the best choice for the upper wing?

Chuck

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

Chuck, -1 degree for the top wing is best and here is why. The reason the front wheels have a little toe in on a car is to provide stability going down the road. Toe out causes the car to want to wander. Same with the wings. In the olden days it was said that the top wing should have a little positive incicence so that it would stall first causing the plane to pitch over. We, now days, don't worry about making the top wing stall first. I had a Giant Aeromaster that was a bit pitch sensitive with a little positive pitch in the top wing. When I changed the top wing to a little negative pitch the problem disappeared. The other surfaces on your plane seem OK to me.

By the way, just a little toe in on a plane wheels make a plane track better on the ground.

mango12

Anthony, can you refresh me on how you made the fuesalge panels on your Waco? It seems that you made them out of wood, but I haven't found it yet in the thread. I now have my fuse covered and would like to start adding some detail before moving on to the wings. Thanks, Scott

WacoNut

Hi Scott how have you been?
I did make the panels out of 1/64" ply. The hood(cockpit area) was a real PITA. It is a compound curve and some relief cuts had to be made in the ply to get it to lay down properly. This was then filled with bondo after sealing the wood. A few coats of high fill primer and sanding and it simulated the metal skin very well. I also made the tail fairings out of ply as well. You can get the ply to mold easier if you put it on a plate with water and pop it into the microwave for a minute or two. The wood will hold it's shape very well after drying.
Later!!
Anthony

WacoNut

Scott,
I just found it in page #37, I also talked a little about it on page #38. Hope this was some help.
Later!!
Anthony

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

What brand or type of wheels did you guys use on your Waco. The Waco that I bought came with the wheels shown in the pictures and they seem like they would be too narrow to carry the weight of the plane on grass. The axles look like they weren’t made long enough and the guy who built it had to find wheels with a recessed hubs.

Chuck

Mein Duff

Might want to check out Dubro's website for a variety of choices depending on scale.

Ekim

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Chuck,

I think those are the Williams Bros. scale contour wheels. They should have come with snap-on hubs to cover the axle shaft. I've used those wheels on other planes and they've held up well. They are probably just what the builder wanted and he may have even whacked off some of the axle shaft to get the fit he wanted. I've seen guys extend axles by slipping a piece of brass tubing over the axle and then silver-soldering it along with a length of axle wire on the outer end of the tube. Personally I'd try using the wheels if you have the hub covers that go with them just because I think they look nice. However they may not meet the WACO scale criteria. I was curious as to the diameter of the wheels.

So there's my two cents worth

Good luck

chuck l

My Feedback: (17)

Mike,

Thanks for the reply, I'm going to have to replace them, no wheel covers came with the plane. I like your idea of the brass tubing. It could extend the axle to reach and support the outside of the wheel pants. The wheels are four and a half inches in diameter.

I sent you an email.

Chuck