Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

Scott, I just ordered 4 sheets of these from Sig: SIGRPCP2571--sheets are 8" x 17", thickness is 0.010", rib spacing is 21/32", the price is $2.59/sheet.

One sheet per top and bottom aileron. Rib count of at least 25 instead of 33 or 34. It'll look fine and save a BUNCH of work.

mango12

I agree.

obo

My Feedback: (37)

Ken I am glad you put that sig part no. in here I was wondering if sig still had that stuff. The plans talks about it but I couldn't find it on their web site. I just called sig their closed but I will call them tuesday.


Bob WB # 35

mango12

Ken, I talked to someone else a while back about applying this stuff. The conclusion we came to was that contact cement would probably be best, but you better get it right the first time!!!
Scott

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

That sounds like the best adhesive to use. Placing paper between the corrugation and the aileron and slowly sliding out the paper would work well.

mango12

Ken, that makes perfect sense !!!

obo

My Feedback: (37)

Hey Ken you talked about lowering your wing saddle so the wing don't go below the fuse. I was thinking also you could raise the bottom former f8 !/4 inch or less to be able to do the samething.The bottom former f5 seames tall enough that nothing would have to be done with it just wondered what you thought. Iam finding out that pepino was a little off when he drew the notchs in the formers. The stringers don't run too stright from former to former. I found a good correction for that & my stringer are perfectly stright from nose to tail now.

Bob WB #35

obo

My Feedback: (37)

Well guys the waco comming along good ran into a little stringer trouble but worked that out. Working 10 hr days don't leave much time to build.




Bob W.B 35

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

Bob, look at this photo. The actual wing shape is shown by the dark blue line. Pepino was not very accurate on his side view drawing. Notice, I drew in another piece of bass wood above the main longeron. This would allow me to cut into the main longeron and allow the lower wing center section to go higher into the fuselage. As is it could have been a little deeper.

I made the cutout for the wing saddle while the fuselage sides could be still laid flat on the table.

mango12

OBO, listen to Ken. I am still working on getting my wing settled into the wing saddle correctly. It has been a pain so far!!. And I know what you mean about the ten hour work days, Mine are twelve to thirteen hours every day.
Scott

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

Here is a photo of the fake door that I intend to install after the covering has been put on. It was cut out of 1/64" plywood. The front cockpit will always be covered.

skylarkmk1

Ken,

The outline looks great and I think the 1/64th ply should work well.

Here are a couple of door photos from an YMF Classic, NC 14081 that may help;

P1 The door from in front of the lower wing. Note the hinges are simple over lapping style.
P2 Looking forward. You can also see the retracted foot peg below the forward cabane, mirrors mounted on the upper rear cabane struts, the door, the foot step below the name and the baggage hatch. Also note the difference between windshields and the frames.

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

Super photos John. The way I got the outline of the door was to take a three view, scan it, blow it up some, import it into a drawing program, trace it, and scale it up to the right size for printing. I'm glad it looks like your photo. I used 1/64" so that it would not look like a bump on the side of the fuselage but would clearly show the door outline. Of course I'll make the hinges and latch. Sometimes you don't know where to stop with scale.

I have several photos of the front wind shield frame. Looks like they intended to be able to remove it on a moments notice.

Thanks

Here are my last two planes:

skylarkmk1

Ken,

My understanding of front windshields is that they were often removed (but not always) and stored when the cover was used to cut down on drag.

P1 Waco UBF-2, NC 2091K, with soft cover and with the windshield in place.
P2 Closer view.
P3 Waco UBF-2, NC 155Y, with a removable metal front cover and with the windshield in place. This is one of the museum planes that is flown more often than most, so the cover is off more than it is on.
P4 Waco JYM, NC 991H with front cockpit covered with a semi-permanent metal cover (a bit hard to see, right above the A-M-9) and windshield removed. This plane was used as a “Mail Plane� and not only has the cockpit covered, but also has wider center sections and tapered outer sections for extra speed.

obo

My Feedback: (37)

Well Scott I was off today & worked all day cutting that wing saddle into that longeron. With A center section rib & a incidence meter
I got it set correctly at 0 degrees ,what a pain that was to get right. Well at least I can continue on now. where are you at in your build?

Bob waco brotherhood #35

mango12

All framed up except the ailerons
Put the top wing together last night, man this sucker is BIG !!! However, I still have a long way to go. The rear center section of the top wing did not come to a "point" like the rest of the wing, but is rather blunt, about 3/8"s of an inch thick. I must not have sanded something right, but will get back on it tomorrow. Still working on the wing saddle also!!!!!

Scott

obo

My Feedback: (37)

Sounds good you will be covering soon from the sounds of things. I built a Flair Stearman pt17 2 years ago & man its big with 89 inch wingspan. So I bet this plane does look big together can't wait to see mine together.


Bob W.B #35

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

I received the sheets of SIGRPCP2571 today that I ordered. As can be seen from the photo they are not long enough to do each aileron in one piece. I laid the top right aileron pieces on a sheet. I believe these sheets will be fine after I do some careful splicing. I don't think the splice will be visible after I get through.

obo

My Feedback: (37)

Hey Ken just want to understand you correctly you set your bottom wing at 0 degrees. Then you set the stab at 0 degrees and the top wing -1 ? I cut my lower wing saddle into the longeron & added the 3/8 & got the lower wing at 0. I just want to besure you were saying to set the stab at 0 degrees & top at -1

thanks
Bob W.B# 35

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

Yes that is what I have mine set at. You can download the Pica 1/5 scale plans from this site. I built 3 of these planes and they flew very good. Look at their incidence settings on the fuselage drawing. They are a little different.

http://www.houseofmoy.com/waco/

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

Scott, here is what the trailing edge looks like on my Waco.

skylarkmk1

Scott, Ken,

Here are a couple of Center Trailing Edge photos (NC 14081):

P1 Similar to Kens photo of the top
P2 Underside. Note the T.E. reflexes up starting at the rear end of the tank supports (wood sticks). Foot peg extended.
P3 Underside from a different angle. Note the foot peg is retracted.

Big_Bird

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks again John.

skylarkmk1

Scott,

Take a look at sheet #2 of the Pica 1/5th Plans. Section "A" is referenced to near center of the top wing and shows the slight reflex shown in the photos. Section "B" is for the lower wing and has a greater reflex and is mostly covered up by the fuselage bottom stringers.

mango12

John, thanks for the photos, it does help. For some reason, the section in question turned out to be nearly 1/2 inch in thickness. If I can figure out a way to get that reflex you pointed out, it will help a bunch. And I will review the Pica plans to see where I went wrong, as You and Ken suggested.
Ken , it was a pleasure talking to you last night, hope to do it again soon. I don't normally do this, but I watched the Dallas game last night, what a finish!!! I am more partial to SEC football, almost all of Alabama's games this season have come down to the wire like that.
Scott