gabe6090

Hello,
I will be covering my Fokker D8 soon and have a type of suedo lozenge pattern I'd like to put on it. Not going to pay the high price of the lozenge film so I'm either going to cut shapes out of monokote covering or trimsheet, or paint them on. I would think the adhesive backed trimsheet would be the easiest but I don't really know what would look the best and be the most durable? The attached picture is the look I'm going after. Olive drab covering with green and brown patches on it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
Gabe

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

It is possible to paint Monokote (or any film covering ).

What you need to do to paint is scuff the area to be painted with a "Scotch Brite" pad or some 0000 steel wool until ALL the gloss is gone. Next THOROUGHLY clean the area TWICE with alcohol and use a clean cloth each time. Then prime and paint.

As for durability, I would put the regular Monokote pieces slightly above the paint and both way above the trim sheet for durability.

For using Monokote pieces, thoroughly clean the area with alcohol, then spay some BLUE Windex on the area. Next position the piece of trim and CAREFULLY squeegee the excess Windex out from underneath the trim piece. BLOT the excess Windex up. Let dry for 24 hours and then seal the edges of the trim piece with a trim iron set on high. The Windex activates the adhesive in the Monokote (this "trick" ONLY WORKS with Monokote).

My personal experience with the trim sheets has not been good. After a few exposures to the fuel residue and wiping down, the trim pieces have started comming loose (edges peeling back) the few times I have used trim sheets.

Hope this helps.

gabe6090

That helps a ton. About applying regular Monokote using Windex: is that a superior method of applying because the trim shrinks when heating the entire piece up to begin with? ...Or do you do it so as not to adversely effect the underlying covering?

dr_wogz

My Feedback: (3)

Campy's got it,

but I will add this: The windex method works for all covering films, and also sticky backed decals. It dosen't 'activate' teh glue, but eliminates all air from between the covering films. The windex evaporates, even from under the films. The films are then stuck to each other by 'residue', friction & air pressure (the air outside pushing the films together, basically) And, Monokote does 'self stick' after a while. Then, just seal teh edges with a hot iron.

Overlaying as large 'patch' over monokote, and ironing in pace, causes the two covering films to shrink at different rates. And this causes great stress on the modeller! Adding 'patches' over a solid area dosen't need teh windex, although it helps in placing. Just iron on as usual. It's the open bays / areas that present a problem.

Some will also 'seal' the edges with a fine paint brush & thin CA..