Have You Built This Power Supply ?
12-27-2002, 11:49 PM
#51
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A dead short would be like running a piece of wire between two of those "islands" your referring to. Another example would be to do the same between the neg and pos post of a battery.
Went to Home Depot and Lowes today ended up buying exactly what I wanted at Ace Hardware with the prices just as cheap. I'm making a bow like the one you suggested from aerofoam.com. I'll post some pic's when its all done.
Went to Home Depot and Lowes today ended up buying exactly what I wanted at Ace Hardware with the prices just as cheap. I'm making a bow like the one you suggested from aerofoam.com. I'll post some pic's when its all done.
12-28-2002, 03:10 PM
#52
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Jaymom fprintf
Foam cutting
power supply images
Use this URL for pictures of my finished power supply.
Foam cutting
power supply images
Use this URL for pictures of my finished power supply.
12-28-2002, 03:52 PM
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Onewasp,
Although it's hard to see, I believe your triac may be in backwards (I made the same mistake!)
The ceramic body should face away from the center of the board. Compare yours to the attached picture.
Scott
Although it's hard to see, I believe your triac may be in backwards (I made the same mistake!)
The ceramic body should face away from the center of the board. Compare yours to the attached picture.
Scott
12-28-2002, 04:18 PM
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Jaymom
Just looked up the bow you are considering building.
It will work but its a lot of trouble for no gain and perhaps some loss. I used a similar one years ago and found it too heavy and cumbersome.
Just take a light weight piece of any readily available wood and angling slightly (5 degrees + or - ) drill 5/32" holes. insert (force) music wire into the holes so that it protrudes .5 to .75 inches on the top side . This is where you'll attach your alligator clips from your power supply. My wood is 3/8 thick x 3/4" X your choice of length. You can even find some ready cut moldings that will work----light weight is what you want not anything bordering on heavy !
Attach your cutting wire and one spring to wheel collars. Then you can slide the wire up and down to adjust the cutting height or cutting angle, should you use a pivot point (this is what I use and get one finger operation) instead of trying to hold or suspend your bow. Been there, done that and its no good.
Just looked up the bow you are considering building.
It will work but its a lot of trouble for no gain and perhaps some loss. I used a similar one years ago and found it too heavy and cumbersome.
Just take a light weight piece of any readily available wood and angling slightly (5 degrees + or - ) drill 5/32" holes. insert (force) music wire into the holes so that it protrudes .5 to .75 inches on the top side . This is where you'll attach your alligator clips from your power supply. My wood is 3/8 thick x 3/4" X your choice of length. You can even find some ready cut moldings that will work----light weight is what you want not anything bordering on heavy !
Attach your cutting wire and one spring to wheel collars. Then you can slide the wire up and down to adjust the cutting height or cutting angle, should you use a pivot point (this is what I use and get one finger operation) instead of trying to hold or suspend your bow. Been there, done that and its no good.
12-28-2002, 04:30 PM
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RCman58
The 470 ohm resistor is a one watt, (not 10) , use it if you can find it or switch to two 1K ohm one watt resistors in parallel. Parallel resistors give one half the value, series the sum.
Radio Shack seems to have a decreasing number of components in their store so any electronics house will have the resistors you need. You can use the same wattage specified or larger --- space is the problem not wattage on R3 .
The 470 ohm resistor is a one watt, (not 10) , use it if you can find it or switch to two 1K ohm one watt resistors in parallel. Parallel resistors give one half the value, series the sum.
Radio Shack seems to have a decreasing number of components in their store so any electronics house will have the resistors you need. You can use the same wattage specified or larger --- space is the problem not wattage on R3 .
12-28-2002, 04:38 PM
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Scott Smith,
Think you replied to the wrong post.
My power supply has been in operation for a year with no problems and loads of adjustment . For most bow sizes I'm set at less than 1/2 power potential.
Think you replied to the wrong post.
My power supply has been in operation for a year with no problems and loads of adjustment . For most bow sizes I'm set at less than 1/2 power potential.
12-28-2002, 04:48 PM
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onewasp....I don't know about anyone else but when I click on your pictures to enlarge them it takes me right back to RCUniverse. Does it do the same for you? Also please post a pic of your bow that you describe. Very interested.
The 470 ohm resistor 1 watt resistor wasn't found at any of the Radio Shacks here in town but one of them had plenty of 1K ohm 1 watt resistors so I bought a package of them and soldered two of them in parallel. They are part# 271-153.
The 470 ohm resistor 1 watt resistor wasn't found at any of the Radio Shacks here in town but one of them had plenty of 1K ohm 1 watt resistors so I bought a package of them and soldered two of them in parallel. They are part# 271-153.
12-28-2002, 04:51 PM
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Hey Guys,
I appreciate all the interest in building this Power Supply and know how much fun creating can be. Yes, I've used it for a year.
BUT foam never had a day in its life when it flew as well as built up balsa ! The only time I use it is when the design is such that a built-up section isn't feasible such as the wing tip of a two meter pattern plane using an 8 or 9 % airfoil . No room for spars etc. at the tip.
In the time we've spent on this thread you could have framed a scratch built balsa wing of ANY size. Think about it before you go foam . As the old saying goes " balsa flies better ---- it always has ". Yes, even in the 100" and up .
I appreciate all the interest in building this Power Supply and know how much fun creating can be. Yes, I've used it for a year.
BUT foam never had a day in its life when it flew as well as built up balsa ! The only time I use it is when the design is such that a built-up section isn't feasible such as the wing tip of a two meter pattern plane using an 8 or 9 % airfoil . No room for spars etc. at the tip.
In the time we've spent on this thread you could have framed a scratch built balsa wing of ANY size. Think about it before you go foam . As the old saying goes " balsa flies better ---- it always has ". Yes, even in the 100" and up .
12-28-2002, 05:17 PM
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onewasp..... I'm sorry, we didn't realize we were upsetting you. I've scratch built more balsa airplanes than I care to remember. Foam cutting is just one more area of our hobby that I would like to pursue. We're just trying to enjoy our hobby here.
12-28-2002, 05:31 PM
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Wolf152
If you are OK on the Long setting but too low on the short setting: 1. Check the value of R1 It could be too high.
They should be 10 Ohm 10 watt in parallel,
which will give you the needed 5 Ohms at 20 watts as
specified in the schematic.
2. Check your switch and connections to make certain
you don't have high resistance there .
If you are OK on the Long setting but too low on the short setting: 1. Check the value of R1 It could be too high.
They should be 10 Ohm 10 watt in parallel,
which will give you the needed 5 Ohms at 20 watts as
specified in the schematic.
2. Check your switch and connections to make certain
you don't have high resistance there .
12-28-2002, 05:48 PM
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Jaymom
NO no no ! You are not upsetting me . I just wanted to point out that we can all get carried away in the wrong direction if we don't think it through.
I know I did in the past, and on foam, when Ed Izzo (now dead) introduced the foam concept to the modeling world at the Toledo Show many years ago--- I'm going to guess it was about mid sixties.
I've flown pattern designs in the Built-up, Balsa fuse-foam wing and Fiberglass-foam versions and that is why I said what I did about built-up planes.
I find it so objectionable that I now use it only in the stab area, and I'm not real sold on it there. First I go with it then without and right now I'm building without.
For my liking, I'll go with a higher drag airfoil to get that light feel in the pattern. As I said earlier, I find it true even in the 100" plus category flying an Extra with a 120 cc twin . Night and day difference .
NO no no ! You are not upsetting me . I just wanted to point out that we can all get carried away in the wrong direction if we don't think it through.
I know I did in the past, and on foam, when Ed Izzo (now dead) introduced the foam concept to the modeling world at the Toledo Show many years ago--- I'm going to guess it was about mid sixties.
I've flown pattern designs in the Built-up, Balsa fuse-foam wing and Fiberglass-foam versions and that is why I said what I did about built-up planes.
I find it so objectionable that I now use it only in the stab area, and I'm not real sold on it there. First I go with it then without and right now I'm building without.
For my liking, I'll go with a higher drag airfoil to get that light feel in the pattern. As I said earlier, I find it true even in the 100" plus category flying an Extra with a 120 cc twin . Night and day difference .
12-28-2002, 06:39 PM
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Scott Smith,
Think you replied to the wrong post.
Think you replied to the wrong post.
Again, I couldn't see real clear from your pictures, but is the ceramic side facing the interior (wrong) or exterior (correct)?
12-28-2002, 07:41 PM
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Scott Smith
Interior, I think but now I'm going to have to go check.
Now I'm curious as to what would happen at 48+inches . But I don't have that size bow or material here to test it. Did you smoke your Triac or just run out of power ?
Interior, I think but now I'm going to have to go check.
Now I'm curious as to what would happen at 48+inches . But I don't have that size bow or material here to test it. Did you smoke your Triac or just run out of power ?
12-28-2002, 08:01 PM
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Longer wire requires more wattage. Mine was working fine with a 30" bow so I thought all was OK. Then when testing with my long bow, it just stopped working. No 'smoke', but the triac was toast. I ruined two of them before TomW (the author) pointed out that the triac appeared to be in backwards. So in went #3 (ceramic outboard this time) and its been working as advertised ever since.
12-28-2002, 08:34 PM
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Scott Smith,
Appreciate your passing that on to me, now I'll know enough to look before I use it again. I've been using a 26" pivot bow to cut tri-taper stab halves and that doesn't even begin to load the design.
For the next two airframes (for next season) I've gone back to built up stabs on a "stab only" jig I made . I've also gone back to my first love, (the low wing) instead of the mid wing design.
One of them will also be back to retracts while the other will be with wheel pants as usual. I know the aerodynamic advantage of retracts is debatable but I sure do like the "clean look" airborne. The slow gear up move isn't exactly ugly either .
I also fly with all the servos inside the airframe. I never have understood why we doubled the size and then hung the servos out in the breeze. You can chin yourself on my linkages so slop is simply not present . Guess it must be the building/engineering time not to mention the free tail weight for gassers.
Appreciate your passing that on to me, now I'll know enough to look before I use it again. I've been using a 26" pivot bow to cut tri-taper stab halves and that doesn't even begin to load the design.
For the next two airframes (for next season) I've gone back to built up stabs on a "stab only" jig I made . I've also gone back to my first love, (the low wing) instead of the mid wing design.
One of them will also be back to retracts while the other will be with wheel pants as usual. I know the aerodynamic advantage of retracts is debatable but I sure do like the "clean look" airborne. The slow gear up move isn't exactly ugly either .
I also fly with all the servos inside the airframe. I never have understood why we doubled the size and then hung the servos out in the breeze. You can chin yourself on my linkages so slop is simply not present . Guess it must be the building/engineering time not to mention the free tail weight for gassers.
01-02-2003, 06:27 AM
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Help
Got it put together tried it and it did not work only 5 volts at out put and turning knob does not change a thing. checked triac, opps triac backwards. fix that and still can't increase voltage with knob. Help Please.
01-02-2003, 06:20 PM
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Starpoint.... Did you go back to page 3 and look at the diagram that I posted? Its a lousy attempt but its the best I could do at the time. Check your wiring real good. Did you etch your PC board or did you "cut" the "islands" as the author did? Check your soldering joints.
01-02-2003, 10:44 PM
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JAYMOM
how do i check the pot to see if i burned it up. I did use your drawing it was a great help. If I turn triac backwards Ceramic facing in I get 7 volts with no change with the pot. I used a dremel with the cutting wheel to make the islands. I checked and there is no bridges all are clean cuts. I was told that with no bow attached that I wold not see a change with pot is this true. I was just sticking the volt meter test leads into the outputs.
If it would help you can email me your number and I could call you, and you can talk me thru some things
email [email protected]
If it would help you can email me your number and I could call you, and you can talk me thru some things
email [email protected]