Stripes

My Feedback: (19)

It's shaping up.

HelloScott

Sure is looking great!

I flew my INDY 400 weekend before last. It was crummy here in central Indiana last weekend, so no flying!

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Scott

Stripes

My Feedback: (19)

Been flying a lot lately with little time for the shop and such.

Here's a shot of the beginning of covering.

Stripes

My Feedback: (19)

I like the bottom side to be very distinctive. The large contrasting color patches as well as the neon color tail help figure out which is the top side very quickly.

WMB

My Feedback: (1)

Stripes, I like the idea of making a mold for canopy placement. How do you do it?
Thanks, MikeB

Stripes

My Feedback: (19)

Plaster of Paris from the Home Depot is poured into the inside of the waxed canopy. Allow to cure completely and dry for several days then carefully pry off the plastic canopy. The plug can then be used as a form for some vacuum formed canopies and as I did a pattern to install the canopy.

KidEpoxy

ok, this may be a dumb question, but-

How do you keep the plaster from contracting while drying?
Every time I use more than a 3/8" of plaster it gets cracks & canyons in it like a Pudding 3weeks in the fridge.... not a pretty site.

Stripes

My Feedback: (19)

Ya know I have seen that cracking when plastering a wall with a layer that was too thick. I used a product available at the Home Depot that says "Plaster of Paris" as opposed to the many other products used for the repair of walls and so on. The brand is "Custom Building Products" which appears in the small round logo top center. Both sides of the box show molding with it and the front states, "can be cast, molded, sanded and painted."

Cost is $2.45 for 4.5 Lbs.

WMB

My Feedback: (1)

Making any headway Stripes? It sure looks good so far. Waiting to read the maiden report!! I think this may be my first scratch build. The fuse jig looks like a great idea, was it difficult to build?
Thanks, MikeB

KidEpoxy

Ooops, dont know how I missed the reply...

Thanx for the info Stripes, I'll go get some & play with it a bit, I've got some cowls to make.

Stripes

My Feedback: (19)

This airplane was ready in time for our local mall show.

Stripes

My Feedback: (19)

The fuselage jig is very easy and can be found over here:
http://webpages.charter.net/rcfu/Con.../FJConstr.html

I had some trouble keeping my fuselages straight and it has helped quite a bit.

HelloScott

I've been hearing from several guys who are building INDY 400s. They have all be pleased with the design and ease of build so far with the exception of the aileron connections/servo attachement. Its not that the way I did it doesn't work, but they say that just installing wing servos is much easier and comes with the added benefits of easy hook up. The only penalty, of course, is the added weight, but that's really not much of an issue if you use a standard size servo or one of the smaller units.

Scott Black

batchelc

My Feedback: (7)

HelloScott,

Do you have plans in CAD? It's nice to be able to print off templates, etc.

Thanks,

Chris

HelloScott

No Chris, I'm sorry, I don't. Even if I did, I don't think I can send it to you as the plans are now the property of Model Aviation magazine.

If you are building an INDY 400, please post some pictures here in this thread!

Scott

gipper6

Do you have any pre-cut waiting for assembly? I think this would be an awesome kit - especially for guys like me who don't have the resources to build one.

kdc

Surely the only resources you really need for a simple model are a scalpel, ruler, sanding block and a fine bladed saw of some type. Maybe a wire bender and file if you make your own u/c.

Why do you need a kit?.

gipper6

Is that all I would need? - and don't call me Surely (Just kidding about Surely).

I've never built from scratch -ergo I have no reference point.

Do you just copy the plans and cut out the wood?
What about instructions?


Thanks for any info.

kdc

You could build with only those tools, but most people like to have a few more tools!

Trace all the components using tracing paper and a ruler ( or photocopy ) and stick onto the wood using small pieces of double sided tape. Cut right throught the tracing into the balsa holding the scalpel vertical and use a ruler on the straight lines. On ply just score the outline and cut with a saw or cut with heavy duty knife on thin ply.

Make an oversize 1/32 ply template and cut out all wing ribs ( without spar cut outs ). Use 2 pieces of threaded rod stack all the rib blanks together with a ply exact size template each side and sand to size with Permagrit sanding block.

For a simple model with rectangular formers any fine tooth saw will do, just cut 1/16 oversize and sand to size using a Permagrit sanding block.

You have almost made a kit! This is real aeromodelling.

If you have questions just ask or see if there is a club member to help you. You can recognise the experts on building - they are probably the ones with gray hair!

gipper6

Thanks for the info - I may begin attempting a build.

kdc

A few more tips-

Put a centre line on all formers.

Make sure the fus sides are accurate for wing seating, tailplane slot and engine bulkhead. If you do not get it right first time, use another piece of balsa and start again. The original balsa can be cut up and used for smaller parts. This is the most crucial thing.

Any parts that are innaccurate should be scrapped ( well- recycled for smaller parts! )

Cut 2 fus sides at once ( and the same ) by sticking 2 sheets of balsa together with 2 or 3 small bits of double sided tape about half inch long. ( dont use too much or they will not part!)

Mark the top of wing ribs with a marker pen immediately they are sanded to shape if they are symetrical to avoid slight errors. You cannot make them absolutely the same!

Wing rib blanks can be rectangular for speed of cutting or oversized rib shape for economy of balsa. Your choice. Initial shaping with a razor plane makes less dust.

Get a razor plane for shaping fus and leading edge.

Make a ' bench hook ' to hold ply parts for sawing. ( see basic carpentry books )

Holes in ply are best drilled with a scrap piece of ply either side. Holes in balsa can be made with sharpened tube.

gipper6

Well, it's official. I ordered the wood and the plans today. Here goes my first attempt at scratch building.

Stripes

My Feedback: (19)

Well good, any problems we'll help.

One of the advantages of scratch building is the large number of plans available.

KenVW

Stripes,

I am also building this plane from the ama purchased plans. I have it ready to cover but have about decided to go with the servos in the wings too. What servos did you use? They look smaller than standards.

I put it in our mall show this wkend, got a lot of positive comments. It is assembled, I had landing gear, OS 25FX, hatches, canopy taped in place, hinges in place but not glued. etc. I had the magazine article of scotts plane beside it.

Great job Scott!

Thanks,
Ken

Stripes

My Feedback: (19)

I built the Indy 400 according to plan with the servo internal just as Scott specified. That flew so well I built a 46 size of it that Scott calls the 600 (12 1/2% enlargement of the plans). That plane has HiTec 225's in the wings. They are smaller and lighter but I don't think it is a big deal I just happen to have 'em around.

You just have to post some pictures of your Indy.

Incidentally, Laser-works now has the major balsa parts available for purchase.