Scratch building 105" WS S Connie L-1049 (Pics added)
01-17-2008, 04:50 PM
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RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Frank
Thanks for the specs, I will forward them to machinest who is actually constructing the whole nose gear assembly for me.
Trevor
Thanks for sharing your experience on aluminum duct tape technique with me. I will be calling you one of these days. I Think it would be best not to apply tape longitudenally as you said. Working on panaling would be the better way.
Thanks for the specs, I will forward them to machinest who is actually constructing the whole nose gear assembly for me.
Trevor
Thanks for sharing your experience on aluminum duct tape technique with me. I will be calling you one of these days. I Think it would be best not to apply tape longitudenally as you said. Working on panaling would be the better way.
01-17-2008, 05:07 PM
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RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Is there any good metal paint available that could be used instead of tape type material?. I recently head about flite metal 3 stage paint offered by BVM but I couldn't find it on their website. Anybody have experience with this product?.
01-26-2008, 03:50 AM
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RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
I took these many years ago on a visit to the AHM at Kansas City.
Plus one additional taken onboard the HARS C121C at Avalon last year.
Hope they may be of use and good luck.
Plus one additional taken onboard the HARS C121C at Avalon last year.
Hope they may be of use and good luck.
01-26-2008, 09:43 AM
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RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Hi Woody!
Would you send me picture number three in a higher resolution by e-mail? Is it a disc brake?
I´m constructing a computer-model of a Lufthansa Super Constellation and they had also that type of brakes. And I never found such a good photo. Have you also done a shot of the Super Constellation Logo I´m still searching for? The one I have is not good enough.
Frank
Would you send me picture number three in a higher resolution by e-mail? Is it a disc brake?
I´m constructing a computer-model of a Lufthansa Super Constellation and they had also that type of brakes. And I never found such a good photo. Have you also done a shot of the Super Constellation Logo I´m still searching for? The one I have is not good enough.
Frank
01-29-2008, 06:27 AM
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RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Hey Thanks Woody
Those are awsome shots and I am sure they will come handy.
I recently bought Kranz Boeing 727-200
1/16th scale model for my second project.I was thinking on building Canadair North Star but now 727 has taken its spot but frankly speaking I don't want to do another 2year project least not back to back. This boy being but smaller in scale then Connie but its 10' long and has 9' wingspan. I will post its pictures with Connie in near future.
As for update on Connie's build nothing new, she has been on 2 month break so far but it should be done in next 3 to 4 months airframe wise only.
Those are awsome shots and I am sure they will come handy.
I recently bought Kranz Boeing 727-200
1/16th scale model for my second project.I was thinking on building Canadair North Star but now 727 has taken its spot but frankly speaking I don't want to do another 2year project least not back to back. This boy being but smaller in scale then Connie but its 10' long and has 9' wingspan. I will post its pictures with Connie in near future.
As for update on Connie's build nothing new, she has been on 2 month break so far but it should be done in next 3 to 4 months airframe wise only.
02-03-2008, 07:01 PM
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RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Well its been 2 months since I performed any work on the Connie, its time to get back on it. Yesterday I took my both giants outside on snow covered driveway to get pictures of them togather and I have to say B727 is all over bigger model but Connie has its own grace and beauty!, most interesting feature I loved about both planes is the diehedral on the Connie's wing and those 4 big engine pods. I will post pictures soon!.
02-04-2008, 06:23 PM
#232
RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Give this place a call. The product is Skinny Dip. It is a very fine powder that you apply with a spray adhesive supplied in the kit. We used it on our Ziroli P-51 and it worked great. Basically you finish as normal/ Sand, glass, sand primer, sand some more then finish with very fine sand paper. Down into the 800 or better grit. Then you tape off each panel. Apply light coat of adhesive with an air brush. Apply aluminum powder with the cotton swab. You can rub it in various direction to simulate aluminum sheet. A bit tedious but it is super light. Next to nothing and no real paint fumes except a bit from the adhesive. You will look like the tin man after a panel session. You can use panel lines if you want and use this stuff to highlight them. We used several Testor metalizer paints to mix with the adhesive to tint the panes as required. We have some that look like stainless around the exhaust. A couple panels we just left as primer as the full size had. Great stuff and not too expensive.
http://www.impscale.com/
http://www.impscale.com/
02-06-2008, 01:39 AM
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RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Now this is something I would give test shot at. Price seems very resonable but only question I have is:
Spraying adhesive through air brushes!, won't this clog up or glue the internals of the airbrush itself ?.
On personal note I have used few different types of Testor/modelmaster metalizers on plastic models. In past but I never had to spray any sort of adhesive through airbrush before. I had excellent results with metalizers and also Alclad II metal paints.
Spraying adhesive through air brushes!, won't this clog up or glue the internals of the airbrush itself ?.
On personal note I have used few different types of Testor/modelmaster metalizers on plastic models. In past but I never had to spray any sort of adhesive through airbrush before. I had excellent results with metalizers and also Alclad II metal paints.
02-06-2008, 02:13 AM
#234
RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
We just kept a large air brush bottle of laquer thinner and switched to it to clean the air brush out each time. You have to let the adhesive dry a bit anyway so there is plenty of time. the adhesive is kinda like a contact cement. It's not wet unless you spray it on too heavy. You don't need this.
02-07-2008, 11:16 AM
#237
RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Here are a couple of pictures of "skinny dip". These pictures are at least 10 years old so it isn't quite up to todays standards. We had to crop off some of the background junk but the images are unretouched. This plane has won 3 scale contest in it's early days. It is dipicted as a new aiplane might appear. I'm not into competition but I had to enter these to fly or participate in the events. Part of my scale standards are to only show what can be seen at a reasonable given scale distance and at proper scale size. For example a removable panel might...might have 1/8 inch edge or scar around it. at 1/5 scale it appears as 1/8 / 5= .025". Just under 1/32" So it follows that butt joints that are more normal and are nearly invisible. At best a discoloration of the panels from a distance. The bottom line I usually only show removable panels and noticable panels. Try it some time and see what I mean.
Anyway the P-51 was not quite complete in the pictures. You can clearly see the panel distinctions in the bottom view of the wings. Sharp eyes will notice the functional counterweights on the ailerons. The lower quarter shots don't really do justice as the exhaust is more of a yellowy color representing stainless. The gray is just primer as i have seen on several P-51 and even in some wartime shots of this plane. The left side shot you can see the grain I think in the aluminum and yet there is no marked seam. Just as the full size might appear from the scale distance. Yes it does have scale functioning exhaust but this is the first generation and the new 3rd gen is far better.
By the way this stuff is quite gas proof as finished if you let it sit a week or so. I had the plane out in the sun several times before I started testing the motor so it had plenty o f time to set up. I had no trouble with it fading or washing off. I guess it can be clear coated but I don't think IMP recommends it.
We are getting close to deciding on finish for the Z-B-25 and we are leaning towards the Skinny dip for the whole thing. Mainly because there are almost no fumes from this stuff and to keep the weight down under 50 pounds.
Anyway the P-51 was not quite complete in the pictures. You can clearly see the panel distinctions in the bottom view of the wings. Sharp eyes will notice the functional counterweights on the ailerons. The lower quarter shots don't really do justice as the exhaust is more of a yellowy color representing stainless. The gray is just primer as i have seen on several P-51 and even in some wartime shots of this plane. The left side shot you can see the grain I think in the aluminum and yet there is no marked seam. Just as the full size might appear from the scale distance. Yes it does have scale functioning exhaust but this is the first generation and the new 3rd gen is far better.
By the way this stuff is quite gas proof as finished if you let it sit a week or so. I had the plane out in the sun several times before I started testing the motor so it had plenty o f time to set up. I had no trouble with it fading or washing off. I guess it can be clear coated but I don't think IMP recommends it.
We are getting close to deciding on finish for the Z-B-25 and we are leaning towards the Skinny dip for the whole thing. Mainly because there are almost no fumes from this stuff and to keep the weight down under 50 pounds.
02-20-2008, 02:32 PM
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RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Looks as my buddy is busy with work quite a bit so I have to take this task upon myself. I need guidence from experianced ones on how to make FG wing tube slevees. I know roughly how to do them but what is good methord to do it and what material should be good to wrap around aluminum tube before wrapping glass cloth tape?.
Wax paper or thin guage of mylar.
Wax paper or thin guage of mylar.
02-22-2008, 02:39 PM
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RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Another question for machinests, What is best aluminum to be used for nose strut on this model?
T6 6061 or 7075 or 2024..
Nose strut is 9.5" long with suspention any steering but with out upper and lower drag struts.
Bentwings I will get back to you once I see your posted pictures on PC.
T6 6061 or 7075 or 2024..
Nose strut is 9.5" long with suspention any steering but with out upper and lower drag struts.
Bentwings I will get back to you once I see your posted pictures on PC.
02-22-2008, 03:29 PM
#240
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RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
ORIGINAL: Props4ever
Another question for machinests, What is best aluminum to be used for nose strut on this model?
T6 6061 or 7075 or 2024..
Nose strut is 9.5" long with suspention any steering but with out upper and lower drag struts.
Bentwings I will get back to you once I see your posted pictures on PC.
Another question for machinests, What is best aluminum to be used for nose strut on this model?
T6 6061 or 7075 or 2024..
Nose strut is 9.5" long with suspention any steering but with out upper and lower drag struts.
Bentwings I will get back to you once I see your posted pictures on PC.
Aluminum of such a length will most likely bend if the nose gear should hit the ground first.
02-22-2008, 04:20 PM
#241
RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
I'll debate the stainless steel too. 304 stainless steel has a yield value of about 35-40kpsi roughly the same as mild steel. 7057-T6 is probably 20 % better but I'd just go with 4130 steel tube. Even in the normally annealed condition it is in the 70-80kpsi. Nearly double that of mild steel. The nice thing bout 4130 is that it is easily TIG welded even in thin and small sections. You can even braize on it if necessary. It is not as expensive as you might think. Less than $4 per foot. If you need to make a fork, make it out of mild steel and weld or braize it to the strut. You can also buy 4130 in sizes that will telescope pretty nicely.
02-22-2008, 07:02 PM
#243
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RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Bentwings, , ,
I make mention of stainless because telescopic stuff is readilly available at hobby store K&S display racks.
My chem analysis data charts show 7075-T6. (T651)
I suppose the 7057 is a typo.
I make mention of stainless because telescopic stuff is readilly available at hobby store K&S display racks.
My chem analysis data charts show 7075-T6. (T651)
I suppose the 7057 is a typo.
02-22-2008, 07:05 PM
#244
RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
.500 x .049 wall 4130 weighs .236 pound per foot. or about 4 oz. Steel weighs .283 to .300 pounds per cu inch. I can about guarantee that a 1/2" x .049 wall aluminum strut will not survive the first landing in grass. Aluminum weighs .101 pounds per cu in. It will be about a wash strength and equavalent weight.
I don't know what your projected weight of the Connie is but our B-25 isn't quite as big and we are looking at 50 pounds. 8 feet long and 9'10" span and has about 10 pounds of landing gear,wheels and brakes. Robart, Glinnis.
For as much work as you are putting into a beautiful plane I wouldn't chinze on landing gear.
edit
Sorry typo on the 7075-T6 your are right.
I don't know what your projected weight of the Connie is but our B-25 isn't quite as big and we are looking at 50 pounds. 8 feet long and 9'10" span and has about 10 pounds of landing gear,wheels and brakes. Robart, Glinnis.
For as much work as you are putting into a beautiful plane I wouldn't chinze on landing gear.
edit
Sorry typo on the 7075-T6 your are right.
02-22-2008, 07:17 PM
#245
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RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
ORIGINAL: Props4ever
Guys wouldn't Stainless and 4130 steel be heavy metals to use on NOSE gear?
Guys wouldn't Stainless and 4130 steel be heavy metals to use on NOSE gear?
unless your using solid rounds of aluminum bar, the chances are pretty good that a couple of good nose first smacks on the ground will start it bending.
Either way, the material is quite cheap, well under a few bucks per foot for anything.
See what you can get at the Metal Supermarket over on Dixie, in your area.
I have the spec sheets and their cataloge in my hand right now. They show a full range of telescopic sizes.
03-01-2008, 11:25 AM
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RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Just an update on thie project. I have decided to make moulds in 2 halfs from the current fuselage. This means project will get delayed as i like to see how fiberglass fuselage shells turn out as it will save 50% of the weight. I will keep you guys posted as things progress.
03-03-2008, 08:10 PM
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RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
ORIGINAL: bentwings
Here are a couple of pictures of "skinny dip". These pictures are at least 10 years old so it isn't quite up to todays standards. We had to crop off some of the background junk but the images are unretouched. This plane has won 3 scale contest in it's early days. It is dipicted as a new aiplane might appear. I'm not into competition but I had to enter these to fly or participate in the events. Part of my scale standards are to only show what can be seen at a reasonable given scale distance and at proper scale size. For example a removable panel might...might have 1/8 inch edge or scar around it. at 1/5 scale it appears as 1/8 / 5= .025". Just under 1/32" So it follows that butt joints that are more normal and are nearly invisible. At best a discoloration of the panels from a distance. The bottom line I usually only show removable panels and noticable panels. Try it some time and see what I mean.
Anyway the P-51 was not quite complete in the pictures. You can clearly see the panel distinctions in the bottom view of the wings. Sharp eyes will notice the functional counterweights on the ailerons. The lower quarter shots don't really do justice as the exhaust is more of a yellowy color representing stainless. The gray is just primer as i have seen on several P-51 and even in some wartime shots of this plane. The left side shot you can see the grain I think in the aluminum and yet there is no marked seam. Just as the full size might appear from the scale distance. Yes it does have scale functioning exhaust but this is the first generation and the new 3rd gen is far better.
By the way this stuff is quite gas proof as finished if you let it sit a week or so. I had the plane out in the sun several times before I started testing the motor so it had plenty o f time to set up. I had no trouble with it fading or washing off. I guess it can be clear coated but I don't think IMP recommends it.
We are getting close to deciding on finish for the Z-B-25 and we are leaning towards the Skinny dip for the whole thing. Mainly because there are almost no fumes from this stuff and to keep the weight down under 50 pounds.
Here are a couple of pictures of "skinny dip". These pictures are at least 10 years old so it isn't quite up to todays standards. We had to crop off some of the background junk but the images are unretouched. This plane has won 3 scale contest in it's early days. It is dipicted as a new aiplane might appear. I'm not into competition but I had to enter these to fly or participate in the events. Part of my scale standards are to only show what can be seen at a reasonable given scale distance and at proper scale size. For example a removable panel might...might have 1/8 inch edge or scar around it. at 1/5 scale it appears as 1/8 / 5= .025". Just under 1/32" So it follows that butt joints that are more normal and are nearly invisible. At best a discoloration of the panels from a distance. The bottom line I usually only show removable panels and noticable panels. Try it some time and see what I mean.
Anyway the P-51 was not quite complete in the pictures. You can clearly see the panel distinctions in the bottom view of the wings. Sharp eyes will notice the functional counterweights on the ailerons. The lower quarter shots don't really do justice as the exhaust is more of a yellowy color representing stainless. The gray is just primer as i have seen on several P-51 and even in some wartime shots of this plane. The left side shot you can see the grain I think in the aluminum and yet there is no marked seam. Just as the full size might appear from the scale distance. Yes it does have scale functioning exhaust but this is the first generation and the new 3rd gen is far better.
By the way this stuff is quite gas proof as finished if you let it sit a week or so. I had the plane out in the sun several times before I started testing the motor so it had plenty o f time to set up. I had no trouble with it fading or washing off. I guess it can be clear coated but I don't think IMP recommends it.
We are getting close to deciding on finish for the Z-B-25 and we are leaning towards the Skinny dip for the whole thing. Mainly because there are almost no fumes from this stuff and to keep the weight down under 50 pounds.
Hi Bentwings,
Can you upload bigger pictures as these are kinda small to see the detail on regular PC screen.
What is the best way in my situation to apply panel lines on the fuselage ie: 1/32 tape panel lines or something else as these will emerge on the moulds, yet i want recessed panel lines not raised ones!....
03-03-2008, 08:40 PM
#248
RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Props....,
Let me see if I can get these scanned at a higher resolution so you can zoom in on them. Maybe I can get my son to take some new digital pictures of at lest the wings.
As for panel lines....I took a #11 exacto knife and ground the point down to about .015 wide and dressed it to sharp edges with an Arkansas stone. I used this to scribe the panel lines in the primer. In a few places they were a bit light so I re-scribed them after painting and retoughed them with some super thin paint. Tedious to say the least. Neither the P-51 nor the Corsair are Top Gun models, just everyday flyers in my mind.
To put the panel lines in the mold I have to plead some ignorance as I simply have not done it on a large scale. I did some test ones on some gear door molds but they were not real good.
There are a couple guys working on molds in the scale and old time pattern areas here. You might want to check them out. I think they are also putting the primer in the mold then laying the glass layup. You wind up with a pre-primed part with panel lines. It's got to be a lot of work however.
I would think that if you had a pretty hard surface on the plug that you carefully scribe the panel lines in it then do all the waxing etc and build the mold from this. You should get a molded part with panel lines. The release agent must be very good and reliable or there will be problems I'm sure. I would make a test plug and mold first to get the process down. I also think some are using vacuum bagging.
Let me see if I can get these scanned at a higher resolution so you can zoom in on them. Maybe I can get my son to take some new digital pictures of at lest the wings.
As for panel lines....I took a #11 exacto knife and ground the point down to about .015 wide and dressed it to sharp edges with an Arkansas stone. I used this to scribe the panel lines in the primer. In a few places they were a bit light so I re-scribed them after painting and retoughed them with some super thin paint. Tedious to say the least. Neither the P-51 nor the Corsair are Top Gun models, just everyday flyers in my mind.
To put the panel lines in the mold I have to plead some ignorance as I simply have not done it on a large scale. I did some test ones on some gear door molds but they were not real good.
There are a couple guys working on molds in the scale and old time pattern areas here. You might want to check them out. I think they are also putting the primer in the mold then laying the glass layup. You wind up with a pre-primed part with panel lines. It's got to be a lot of work however.
I would think that if you had a pretty hard surface on the plug that you carefully scribe the panel lines in it then do all the waxing etc and build the mold from this. You should get a molded part with panel lines. The release agent must be very good and reliable or there will be problems I'm sure. I would make a test plug and mold first to get the process down. I also think some are using vacuum bagging.
03-04-2008, 04:42 PM
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RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Actually glassing on the fuselage is very hard, i used 6oz and 4oz cloth combined at different parts of it, there i have 10oz so i guess scribing panel lines on primed present fuselage would be the way to go. I will also check out other sections you mentioned.
Yeah high resolution pictures would be good as this site accepts high resolution pictures easily.
03-05-2008, 03:37 PM
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RE: Scratch building 105" W/S Super connie L-1049 G
Metal mock up of nose gear strut
Last night in the middle of snow storm i went on making metal mock up of nose gear strut, i used 5/8" aluminum tube for the main strut body and 1/2" aluminum rod for telescope suspention strut that goes in the middle of the tube. Florks are made from thin sheet of stainless steel with couple other brackets for other support struts. Steering is made from small threaded rod with 2 nuts at the bottom of the strut and i epoxied 3/32" x 2-3/4 L" rod for axle.
I still have figure out what type of spring will be needed for right amount of tention for shock absorbation, will do that in next few days. So far it looks pretty good on the model as close to real thing and not the wooden mock up anymore
Last night in the middle of snow storm i went on making metal mock up of nose gear strut, i used 5/8" aluminum tube for the main strut body and 1/2" aluminum rod for telescope suspention strut that goes in the middle of the tube. Florks are made from thin sheet of stainless steel with couple other brackets for other support struts. Steering is made from small threaded rod with 2 nuts at the bottom of the strut and i epoxied 3/32" x 2-3/4 L" rod for axle.
I still have figure out what type of spring will be needed for right amount of tention for shock absorbation, will do that in next few days. So far it looks pretty good on the model as close to real thing and not the wooden mock up anymore