planking fuselage advice needed
07-20-2002, 09:01 AM
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planking fuselage advice needed
If you're going to use foam... why not do the "lost foam" system?
Make the formers and the rough (slighty oversize) foam blocks for between formers. Stack and tack-glue with a couple of dowels (DON'T glue in the alignment rods...) or steel rods to ensure alignment is right. Sand and shape the foam to match the formers. Plank the plane. (Pull the rods only when they are in the way of finishing the planking...) Use acetone or other solvent to disolve the foam out.
As for how thick of a planking, and former spacing... More formers... thinner planking. And... is the planking the only longitudinal structure? Or are you running some square stock longerons? What size engine and what target weight for the plane? (that size a .46 will fly {scale performance, not sport model performance....} it if its under 7 lbs. Or you might go up to a 1.8 4-stroke... and need a LOT more structure.) And do you plan to fiberglass the fuselage? (can go with less formers, thinner planking... vary the glass thickness along the fuselage and have the glass to be the main structure...)
We need more info on what you're doing....
Make the formers and the rough (slighty oversize) foam blocks for between formers. Stack and tack-glue with a couple of dowels (DON'T glue in the alignment rods...) or steel rods to ensure alignment is right. Sand and shape the foam to match the formers. Plank the plane. (Pull the rods only when they are in the way of finishing the planking...) Use acetone or other solvent to disolve the foam out.
As for how thick of a planking, and former spacing... More formers... thinner planking. And... is the planking the only longitudinal structure? Or are you running some square stock longerons? What size engine and what target weight for the plane? (that size a .46 will fly {scale performance, not sport model performance....} it if its under 7 lbs. Or you might go up to a 1.8 4-stroke... and need a LOT more structure.) And do you plan to fiberglass the fuselage? (can go with less formers, thinner planking... vary the glass thickness along the fuselage and have the glass to be the main structure...)
We need more info on what you're doing....
07-21-2002, 09:18 PM
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planking fuselage advice needed
Building a Gee Bee? (the only thing I can think of that would have that huge a round fuselage 
If so... don't fully plank, just stringers and fabric cover. Its scale. The box inner structure you chose should be plenty of strength. (and would be as good as a jig for keeping the rest straight.)
If so... don't fully plank, just stringers and fabric cover. Its scale. The box inner structure you chose should be plenty of strength. (and would be as good as a jig for keeping the rest straight.)
11-01-2002, 12:06 PM
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planking fuselage advice needed
Best way to get nice even planks is to get a Master Airscrew balsa striper and glue a piece of 1/4" square to the bottom of it. It makes nice, even, beveled planks.
11-01-2002, 01:13 PM
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planking fuselage advice needed
http://www.modelairplanenews.com/how...rip_plank1.asp
Good page with good notes using the balsa stripper
Good page with good notes using the balsa stripper
11-05-2002, 06:00 PM
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planking fuselage advice needed
I am nearing completion of a "cartoon seaplane" with exaggerated features. I used 3/32 balsa stripped from
5/16 down to 1/8, depending on the amount of contour. Medium CA worked beautifully, but there was quite a bit
of flex between the bulkheads. My solution was to make a "Titebond Soup," 50% glue, 50% water. Shake well
and paint onto the inside. Allow to dry and Bingo, no more flex. Stress free sanding. I tried the bevel planking,
but I found it to be an enormous waste of time. The fuse is 3/4 finished with both sides, bottom and nose fiberglassed (two layers on nose and bottom) for an all up weight of 3.5 pounds. What do you think?
P.S. Are you building from plans, or 3-view? I have been considering the I-16, but haven't found good plans.
5/16 down to 1/8, depending on the amount of contour. Medium CA worked beautifully, but there was quite a bit
of flex between the bulkheads. My solution was to make a "Titebond Soup," 50% glue, 50% water. Shake well
and paint onto the inside. Allow to dry and Bingo, no more flex. Stress free sanding. I tried the bevel planking,
but I found it to be an enormous waste of time. The fuse is 3/4 finished with both sides, bottom and nose fiberglassed (two layers on nose and bottom) for an all up weight of 3.5 pounds. What do you think?
P.S. Are you building from plans, or 3-view? I have been considering the I-16, but haven't found good plans.
